: 2003 Deville Engine Removal Procedure - out the bottom



mn_vette
07-17-13, 11:37 AM
I tried looking for a procedure specifically for the later Devilles and the search engine couldn't find one for me, so I though I would write down what I had to do to get the engine out of mine. In total it took me about 8 hours to get the engine out, but I was taking my time and trying to figure out exactly what I needed to take out and what I could leave.

The first thing to consider is how much room you are going to need. I backed my car into the garage so I could use the cherry picker half in and out of the garage. Then you will also need alot of room to the side to slide the engine out. Unless of course you have a lift or other method of moving the car and engine. I built a small dolly out of 2x6's and 2x4's on some old casters I had laying around. It seemed to hold the weigh pretty well. I made it 30"x30" so it would sit on the main beams of the subframe.

If you are OK discharging the A/C system then you can skip taking out the Radiator/Fans, Alternator, A/C compressor, and Belt. Just unbolt the lines from the compressor to disconnect.


If anyone sees any mistakes or things I forgot please let me know and I can updated it.



1.) Back car into garage so there is 10-15ft of useable space in front of the car.

2.) Jack up car and remove front tires

3.) Disconnect the positive(+) side of the battery. Located under the back seat. There are two latches under the front of the back seat, where the passengers’ knees would be. Give it a good pull up on each side and the seat should come free.

4.) Remove Engine to Tranny bracket on the bottom of the engine going across the exhaust pipe.

5.) Remove Torque converter to flywheel bolts

6.) Remove the engine mount to subframe nut

7.) Drain fluids

8.) Remove air filter assembly, set computer aside

9.) Remove Throttle cables from throttle body

10.) Remove Brake lines to Master cylinder (fluid will drip) OR you can unbolt the entire master cylinder from the brake booster.

11.) Remove Heater hose to back of engine (bolted to the transmission as well)

12.) Remove heater hose at thermostat housing

13.) Remove big coolant hoses from radiator.

14.) Remove Transmission shifter cable (remove entire bracket from transmission and pry the end of the cable off the ball)

15.) Disconnect Engine harness to body harness connector mounted on driver strut tower by cruise control module

16.) Disconnect Wheel speed sensors

17.) Disconnect front brake line HOLDERS that connect the brake lines to the frame(remove one black plug bolt on the wheel well covers to gain access)

18.) Disconnect the steering rack from the steering column. (11mm bolt under rubber boot on top of steering rack)

19.) Disconnect fuel lines and evac hose that runs with them.

20.) Disconnect transmission lines(one stays with the transmission and one with the radiator)

21.) Disconnect AIR pump hoses from air pump connected to subfame

22.) Remove Hood latch piece and set inside engine compartment with cable still attached

23.) Remove Top Radiator brackets that hold the radiator in place.

24.) Disconnect and support AC condenser from radiator(2-10mm bolts, then lift up)

25.) Disconnect radiator Fan electrical connection and remove wires from fan casings

26.) Remove radiator and fan assembly through the front of the car.

27.) Remove serpentine belt

28.) Unbolt power steering return line from the front of the block, do not disconnect it from the reservoir, just need to move it a bit to get other things out.

29.) Remove alternator (4 bolts, remove wires)

30.) Unbolt AC compressor from block(4 bolts) and secure it to the bumper support where the radiator was. Tie this down with a good strap so it doesn’t fall later. You may have to reposition the condenser to allow the lines to bend properly.

31.) Remove the coolant line going to the top of the coolant reservoir.

32.) Unbolt the coolant reservoir, but do not remove.

33.) Disconnect the battery line bolt on the top of the Fuse box by the passenger headlight.

34.) Open up the fuse box. There are 4 tabs on the side, pry the tabs back and pull the fuse box up. Unscrew the bolt inside the fuse box that is closest to the rear of the car. This will allow one of the connector blocks on the back of the fuses to come out. Disconnect the two red wires with a clip on the back side of the fuses as well.

35.) Pull the engine harness lines back under the coolant reservoir and lay on top of the engine.

36.) Remove the three bolts that hold each strut into the strut tower.

37.) Disconnect the brake lines that go to the rear of the vehicle just behind the subframe on the pass side.

38.) There is a connector for the O2 sensor inside the metal casing that is riveted on the bottom of the car. A connector holder can be seen sticking out of the side of this riveted piece of metal. Cut this connector holder off and push the stub into the metal connector. Pull the connector back toward the sensor. You may have to pry the metal apart and pull the connector out of the side to get to it. Disconnect the connector and put a piece of wire or rope on the connector and tie it very tight so it will not come off. Then pull the harness back through the metal piece and make sure the wire or rope follows behind it so the harness can be pulled back through on install. This step may be easier to do when the engine has been lowered since it will then have a bit more slack in the wiring harness to be pulled back toward the sensor.

39.) Unbolt the exhaust manifold from the rest of the exhaust system(2-15mm and 2-10mm Bolts). It may be easier to do this step after the engine has been lowered, if you choose to do this remove the two bolts that hold the middle of the exhaust to the body of the car. It may be easier to use a torch to help loosen these bolts.

40.) Place the dolly under the engine

41.) Place a jack under the center of the subframe with a 2x6 or other spanning the subframe. Jack up until the jack is taking up the weight of the engine

42.) Remove the 6 subframe bolts hold the subframe to the car.

43.) Gently lower the subframe onto the dolly with the jack. Make sure nothing is still connected!

44.) Attach a cherry picker to the front bumper. I used two 2x4’s under the curved bumper support and ran a strap around the 2x4’s to the cherry picker.

45.) Once the car is high enough roll the engine out from under the car and lower the car back to the jack stands.

46.) Disconnect the transmission electrical connection, ground wires on the front, and speed sensor.

47.) Remove power steering hoses from the Power Steering pump.

48.) Attach the cherry picker to the engine and take up the slack. I used the lift hole on the rear driver side and put a bolt into the head where the power steering line was bolted to, just be careful to keep the chain off the power steering reservoir.

49.) Remove the engine to transmission brackets. One is on the driver side of the engine(3 bolts) and the other two are on the passenger side by the transmission output shaft(one with 3 bolts one with 4).

50.) Remove the 4 bell housing bolts(3 are 18mm and the one in the back is 15mm)

51.) Remove the bolts that hold the front engine mount to the block.

52.) Lift the engine out with the harness and you are done.



Don't forget to bleed the brakes once you put everything back together.

Caddy-EaRL
07-18-13, 10:40 AM
Remove the master cylinder, leaving lines hooked up, and lay it over top the engine/trans. Leave the belt, alternator, and ac compressor all on the engine until its out. Just remove the lines from the compressor, Leave the radiator and fan in the car. Go ahead and remove the coolant tank, then remove the cam sensor. It's ez to break off when removing/installing. Definitely remove the engine pipe at the convertor. use four jackstands on the subframe. put the front tires back on if removed, or with a jack make sure the lower control arms dont drop too far pulling the inner cv joint apart. Takes me less than 3 hours to remove.