: [DIY] Install CTS-V Brembo Brakes on CTS (Part 4, REAR)

07-16-13, 01:06 AM
[DIY] Install CTS-V Brembo Brakes in CTS (Part 4, DISASSEMBLY & INSTALL NEW PARTS (REAR)


As a side note, while doing the left rear brake install I also replaced the knuckle to get rid of the annoying pop when going over sharp bumps. The right one was replaced a year ago. It worked and the pop is gone. Total cost = $132.77 shipped.

Preassemble the caliper. Your caliper should look like this. Or maybe Yellow. I did not preassemble the front calipers but should have.


As with the front you must start by chocking the wheels, this time the front ones, (Per service man. - release the parking brake and put the transmission in neutral) then loosen the lug nuts about turn with the lug wrench that came with your car or a breaker bar/torque wrench and a 7/8 – 22mm socket and short extension, jack and support the car with a jack stand and removing the wheel.

As with the front, remove the caliper (less mess if you leave the brake line attached) and the rotor. Using a 36mm socket and long breaker bar remove the axle nut.
Auto Zone has a loaner program on the large sockets. You pay full price for a used one and then get 100% refund when you return it. The 36mm was la little loose and the 34mm would not fit. So it is a 35mm or some inch size like 1 3/8”. Go with the 36mm, it worked fine and the nut was not hard to remove in ether side.


Remove the speed sensor and parking brake bracket.


Unlike the front, it is virtually impossible to get a socket in the three hub bolts due to the axel / CV joint. It took me quite a while to realize that the answer is to push the axel back as far as it will go. This was very easy on the right side but took the use of a puller on the left side.


If that fails and more room is needed you can place a support jack under the control arm and unbolt it from the knuckle so the axel will move back more. This and other bolts in the knuckle are quite easy to access and remove, with the exception of the Ball Joint at the top, so remove whatever you need to get the hub bolts out.


Remove the parking brake cable to free the backing plate. You need to pull the inner cable out as far as possible, clamp it with pliers and push the spring back to get a screwdriver in the hole. Then tie the spring back with tie wraps to help during reinstall.


Transfer the shoes from the Old to the New backing plate.


Install the new brake lines. The right rear has a short crossover cable in addition to the one that feeds the caliper. Remove the three clips, and the old cables, install new cables and clips. I could not find a good method to do this without fluid loss. It will help to connect the NEW line to the old caliper (in the catch pan) until you are ready to move the cable to the new caliper.


After the lines are connected at the body, reassemble everything with new parts. Don’t forget the speed sensor and parking brake cable. After the NEW CALIPER is mounted, move the cable to it.


Bleed the brakes,

In order to have the needed fluid on hand you need to decide if you are going to just bleed each corner or flush the entire system with (colored) high temp DOD 4/5 fluid. I flushed and used every drop of the liter cad of ATE Super Blue. A lot of it was in the catch pan and on the ground.

Examples of high temp, racing fluids:

Motul RBF600 DOT 4 (Red) $36.88 – 1.2 liter - ebay
ATE Super Blue DOT 4 (Blue) also comes in (Amber) $18.25 shipped - 1 liter - ebay

Proper Bleed Order:

1. Passenger Rear – INNER
2. Passenger Rear - OUTER
3. Driver Rear - INNER
4. Driver Rear - OUTER
5. Passenger Front - INNER
6. Passenger Front - OUTER
7. Driver Front - INNER
8. Driver Front – OUTER

There are many tools available to help in bleeding brakes. I am “old school” and have no problem getting a buddy and using the “pump and hold” method. Notice I said buddy, not wife. For this you will need a length of clear tubing that fits on the bleeder valve and a catch can.

You could also use a “one way valve” inline with the tubing or the type that replaces the bleeder valve. These are available at Auto Zone. One is enough, just move it around.

I have had a Phoenix Systems for 10 years and never used it until now. It can pump fluid through the system at the master cylinder or pump the fluid out at the bleeder valve. It has a bottle with a cap that fits the master cylinder reservoir. Fill the bottle with fluid, connect the cap and hang the bottle like giving the car an IV.

I recommend the one way valve replacement for the bleeder valve, a length of clear hose and a bottle. That way even your wife cannot mess it up.


DONE! Next: Left rear wheel.


Hawk Performance Bed In / Burnishing Procedure

1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying MODERATE pressure.
2. Make an additional 2 to 3 HARD stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
4. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down

After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.

It’s late, I’m tired, so I hope some of this makes sense.

07-16-13, 11:15 AM
Great write up, like your others for this project! Thanks for sharing!


09-09-13, 06:39 PM
Major thanks for doing the research and write up.
I am thinking about doing the front brakes on my 2012 CTS4 Wagon. Any idea if the rear Goodridge stainless lines from the CTS-V kit can be used with the stock rear brakes?
Also, do you have an estimate of how much time it took you to swap the front bits?

09-09-13, 06:51 PM
Yes, the Goodridge stainless lines will work with the stock calipers.

The front is by far the easier to do. I would guess 45 min for the first side and 30 min for the second. Then another few minutes for bleeding.

Get the Goodridge lines on order, took them forever to ship them.

09-10-13, 10:30 AM
Yes, the Goodridge stainless lines will work with the stock calipers.

The front is by far the easier to do. I would guess 45 min for the first side and 30 min for the second. Then another few minutes for bleeding.

Thanks, now I just have to decide if I want to pay someone to install them or if I want to get my own hands dirty.

09-18-16, 06:08 PM
I'm doing the install, Im on the back driver side and going back up the park break are larger than the inside of the rear disc rotor #177-1105 and the rotor will not fit.. are the park breaks smaller should I be swapping those out as well? or do I have the wrong rotor? seems like i have the correct rotor and wrong park break shoes in stalled