: Installing Aftermarket Amp - Rear Harness Guide?



FuzzyLogic
07-07-13, 01:42 PM
Hey guys,

I'm beginning the installation of an aftermarket signal integrator and amplifier, and wondered if anyone knew which color wires went to each speaker before I start cutting. I have the following two diagrams, which don't appear to specify wire colors (unless "WH" = white, "TN" = tan, "YE" = yellow", "L-GN" = light green, etc):

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad335/ellioth3771/stereowiring1-001.jpg

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad335/ellioth3771/stereowiring2-001.jpg

Also, I'm planning on ripping out that horrible plastic tray riveted into the rear deck, and wondered if anyone ran into any issues with that. I plan on applying a layer of dynamat over the entire deck, and then mounting my subwoofer with a MDF ring. I don't know how well these rings handle stress, so any advice as far as mounting hardware selection (bolts and washers) would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Manofmetal01
07-07-13, 10:34 PM
You would be correct about the wire colours, thats how it was when I wired up my truck

Scott2012
07-27-13, 12:51 AM
I gotta pull my seat and rear deck- I have horrible rattle from the woofers I have installed- getting rid of plastic and dynamatting is in my near future :)

carlson_mn
07-27-13, 01:58 PM
I gotta pull my seat and rear deck- I have horrible rattle from the woofers I have installed- getting rid of plastic and dynamatting is in my near future :)

When you pull the rear deck put foam in key areas so that it is not loose to rattle. I get a rattle from my sub inside the trunk compartment that holds the reverse lights and license plate, but can only hear it outside.

FuzzyLogic
07-27-13, 02:24 PM
When you pull the rear deck put foam in key areas so that it is not loose to rattle. I get a rattle from my sub inside the trunk compartment that holds the reverse lights and license plate, but can only hear it outside.

In other threads, I've mentioned that you can and should install a layer of MLV with adhesive to the inside of the trunk lid liner. It'll be a tight fit, but as a result, it'll prevent vibration of some of the tab-mounted devices (e.g. reverse light housings) on the other side of the lid. It's also a flanking path for noise from the exhaust to make it into the trunk and from there, into the cabin.

In an ideal world, you should be able to simply insulate the back seat area well enough to isolate the cabin from the trunk, but you're up against the practical limitations imposed by the amount of space available for MLV between the armor plating and the foam padding inside the seat back.

Scott2012
07-28-13, 10:03 PM
In other threads, I've mentioned that you can and should install a layer of MLV with adhesive to the inside of the trunk lid liner. It'll be a tight fit, but as a result, it'll prevent vibration of some of the tab-mounted devices (e.g. reverse light housings) on the other side of the lid. It's also a flanking path for noise from the exhaust to make it into the trunk and from there, into the cabin.

In an ideal world, you should be able to simply insulate the back seat area well enough to isolate the cabin from the trunk, but you're up against the practical limitations imposed by the amount of space available for MLV between the armor plating and the foam padding inside the seat back.

Good point- foam would help greatly. I have my subs sealed into the car- I no longer have practicality in the trunk area :)

Pillow
08-06-13, 09:59 PM
Bump. Very interested in this. I just started the installation on my V this weekend. The front stage is almost done. I needed to order a 2" center channel from Madisound.com to replace the inept Bose junk. If the Pearless 2" does not work out then I will just delete the center channel all together.

Any tips on removing the rear deck cover? I guess the C pillar trims have to come out (similar to the A pillar trims that hold the tweets)? Any surprise issues with the 3 baby seat tethers?

FWIW I installed JBL MS-62c components and the mids lined up no problem with the factory door pod holes. The tweeter mounting required fabrication on the A pillars. But the effort was worth it! Even still just running off Bose processing/amp the system has been completely transformed for the better. It is like ear sex! I was aghast as to how cheap the Bose speakers were.

Thanks!

Scott2012
08-06-13, 10:10 PM
Get rid of the center channel. I got rid of the bose amp and factory nav and went aftermarket- best move yet- and don't miss anything about the bose crap