: 2004 CTS-V - Intermittent Electrical/Start Issues



Jon_Boy_805
07-02-13, 02:34 PM
***Issue has been resolved. New battery fixed everything.***


Hi Everyone, before I start listing what's going on, I have done a bit of research on the forums and seems that I have found a few things to check but nobody's situation (that I have come across) has been EXACTLY like
mine.

Quick rundown on vehicle specs
2004 CTS-V
42k miles
K&N Intake
Magnaflow Exhaust
Eibach Suspension
Factory engine management

Problem rundown
Put the key in the ignition, turn key, 1 click, no start, all electrical in the car turns off - sometimes
Put the key in the ignition, turn key, lagging crank, car starts, runs fine - sometimes
Put the key in the ignition, absolutely no electrical in the vehicle, no dash lights, no security lights, no radio, nothing - sometimes

Get out of the car, "fiddle" (for lack of a better term) with the battery terminals and try again, car starts - sometimes

I've used a DMM to test voltage on the battery and have 12.8v on average while motor is off - 13.9v when motor is on.
When I actually have the opportunity to crank the motor DMM reads about 9.2v (as it should when cranking) and goes right up to 13.9v when motor is on.

From what I've read it seems that I should take this approach:
Visual inspection of power cable to starter - check to see if it's been damaged by the catalytic converter.
DMM on the starter and see what voltage I have there.
Clutch sensor? (doesn't seem to make much sense though...)

It seems like I have an electrical short that could be caused by a defective starter wire but has anybody heard of losing power completely in the car like this?

Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

- Jon

heavymetals
07-02-13, 02:51 PM
The OEM battery is a POS.

Jon_Boy_805
07-02-13, 03:16 PM
It was replaced 2 years ago.

heavymetals
07-02-13, 03:36 PM
If it was replaced with the same type I wouldn't trust it.

Dropping to 9.2 when cranking might be a funky cell.

Jon_Boy_805
07-02-13, 03:48 PM
Got it. I'll look into that as well. Thank you. I actually prefer having Optima Red Tops in my vehicles anyways!

heavymetals
07-02-13, 03:55 PM
Got it. I'll look into that as well. Thank you. I actually prefer having Optima Red Tops in my vehicles anyways!

Optima is a POS also, their quality took a dump.

Check out Odyssey batteries.

Kick ass.

Jon_Boy_805
07-02-13, 04:07 PM
I'm familiar with Odyssey as well but I've got a connection on Optimas and they've never done me wrong in 10+ years of using them so I'll probably head that route. Yellowtop Optima's are a different story though.... Let's not get started on that!

VscharesV
07-02-13, 06:46 PM
I'm sure you have done this but just in case did you make sure their is no corrosion the terminals and that the conections are all tight? Also does it read the same voltage at the starter?

odla
07-02-13, 11:16 PM
Two years on a run of the mill battery is just about right on my cars at least. Check the starter connections just for good measure. I just put in a Odyssey battery in. Love it so far.

Código_Velocé
07-03-13, 02:16 AM
I have been having funky starter intermittent problems as well! smh! I swear these stock starters are POS's! Wish GM made would stand behind their warranty or extend the warranty to 2yrs... Does anyone know the part number to the starter for a '04 CTSV w/ an LS6? Thanks, appreciate the help.

**Does anyone use an aftermarket starter in their LS6 CTSV?

Jon_Boy_805
07-03-13, 11:58 AM
Case closed.... Seems the the battery just needed replacing. Weird how it would read 12v though!

heavymetals
07-03-13, 01:56 PM
The most important thing is what the voltage is UNDER LOAD.

Open circuit voltage at least tells ya if the battery is dead, but tells ya nothing about cranking power.

As I said, the OEM battery is a POS.

If you really new the story and history, you would understand why GM went belly up.