: revshift subframe bushings installed



trucker922
07-02-13, 02:26 AM
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z174/adam3999/IMG_20130630_202549_667.jpg (http://s193.photobucket.com/user/adam3999/media/IMG_20130630_202549_667.jpg.html)
Sunday I installed my revshift cradle bushings. I ordered the red ones. My gen 2 diff had been leaking really bad, so I also threw in the gen 4 I had laying around with a red revshift bushing as well.

It is quite time consuming. Getting the stock bushings out was a headache. All I can say is thank god for air tools!! Cut around rubber then knocked the middles out. Word of advice: when cutting the rubber knock out the middles immediately Cuz the stuff gets so hot it will just melt back together. Then cut a slit in the sleeve, and air chiseled em out. The new red bushings proved difficult to install also. Pretty tight fit! Nothing a 2x4 and sledgehammer can't fix.

First off, the gen 4 diff is making a bit more noise than my gen 2. Doesn't really bother me as long as it doesn't blow up! The revshift bushings could also have something todo with it.

What a difference though going from all stock to all revshift. Not only does the car feel tighter, it also feels like my right foot is a little more connected to the rear wheels. I got it sideways today with zero wheel hop. I also purchased the trans mount insert and mm, but still waiting on my headers to come. I'll install those then. If they make as big a difference as the stuff I just installed this car is goona drive like a dream!

platinum_V
07-02-13, 08:25 AM
Nice! Im glad it got rid of the wheel hop completely. I literally just ordered mine 10mins ago. Got all red, craddle, diff and trailing arms also got the tranny mount. Cant wait to see the difference.

trucker922
07-02-13, 08:42 AM
Yeah... I got cheap and didn't order the trailing arm bushings. Probably should've. it's a pretty noticeable difference. As soon as I turned onto main road I could feel the difference. I can't wait till it rains again. That's when I really noticed wheel hop.

nvthev
07-02-13, 09:10 AM
Wow you pulled the whole thing out! I was thinking of doing that, but I was afraid I wouldn't get it back in right.

trucker922
07-02-13, 09:21 AM
Wow you pulled the whole thing out! I was thinking of doing that, but I was afraid I wouldn't get it back in right.
Just disconnect brake lines on passenger side, unclip abs sensors, and when u lower it down u can disconnect e brake in the middle. Pretty easy.

Revshift
07-02-13, 12:43 PM
Great picture!
I am glad to hear they worked out for you.

DavidBoren
07-02-13, 03:05 PM
Nice. I am glad to hear they made a noticeable difference. And a positive one, at that. Good job with the install. Post an update after you get to play in the rain.

Im in the process of slowly accumulating all of RevShift's blue bushings for my CTS-Jr. Even the V6 gets a little skippy in the rain. And it rains a lot in Portland. I never track my car, nor will I ever have over 400rwhp, so I figured I do not really need the stiff red ones. That and I am a die-hard MICHIGAN fan, so I avoid red anything whenever possible. Go Blue.

FuzzyLogic
07-02-13, 03:16 PM
95A mounts are appropriate for everything except the motor and transmission. No exceptions for driving style or application.

Subframe, differential, trailing arm, and control arm mounts are geared toward controlling low amplitude, high-frequency vibrations. All you're doing with 80A mounts is allowing the subframe to move relative to the car. Since the motor (and by extension, the transmission) is a neverending source of relatively low frequency, high amplitude vibration, only the most dedicated drivers should consider 95A and harder mounts.

DavidBoren
07-02-13, 05:10 PM
95A mounts are appropriate for everything except the motor and transmission. No exceptions for driving style or application.

Subframe, differential, trailing arm, and control arm mounts are geared toward controlling low amplitude, high-frequency vibrations. All you're doing with 80A mounts is allowing the subframe to move relative to the car. Since the motor (and by extension, the transmission) is a neverending source of relatively low frequency, high amplitude vibration, only the most dedicated drivers should consider 95A and harder mounts.

Yeah, Im definitely not the level of "dedicated driver" as some on this forum. I do not have a boneyard of shattered 1,000hp axles or anything like that. More of a "spirited" driver... as spirited as I can get in the 3.6L CTS, anyways. And my CTS has 120,000 miles on it, so I think its about time to replace some bushings.

Andringa
07-03-13, 12:39 AM
95A mounts are appropriate for everything except the motor and transmission. No exceptions for driving style or application.

Subframe, differential, trailing arm, and control arm mounts are geared toward controlling low amplitude, high-frequency vibrations. All you're doing with 80A mounts is allowing the subframe to move relative to the car. Since the motor (and by extension, the transmission) is a neverending source of relatively low frequency, high amplitude vibration, only the most dedicated drivers should consider 95A and harder mounts.

Fuzzy the only exception I would make is that if like me you already have the Spectre Werkes cradle inserts you may not want the 95A.

The combination of a whining diff + Spectre inserts + 95A diff bushing is driving me nuts right now.

I was hoping the SW inserts could stay, but I think I need to get rid of them to stop this noise.

FuzzyLogic
07-03-13, 06:56 AM
Fuzzy the only exception I would make is that if like me you already have the Spectre Werkes cradle inserts you may not want the 95A.

The combination of a whining diff + Spectre inserts + 95A diff bushing is driving me nuts right now.

I was hoping the SW inserts could stay, but I think I need to get rid of them to stop this noise.

You have Delrin inserts. What did you expect? Delrin is comparable to aluminum in terms of hardness. Also, it has virtually no plasticity, meaning that any impact hard enough to deform it will deform it permanently.

Andringa
07-03-13, 04:33 PM
Honestly, I was expecting a bit of noise, but thought I could live with it. I was wrong :)

In hindsight I should have either gone with the 80A Diff bushing or planned on immediately swapping the SW inserts for the RS Bushings. Just throwing my experience out there so that people can avoid my current combination.

FuzzyLogic
07-03-13, 05:00 PM
Honestly, I was expecting a bit of noise, but thought I could live with it. I was wrong :)

In hindsight I should have either gone with the 80A Diff bushing or planned on immediately swapping the SW inserts for the RS Bushings. Just throwing my experience out there so that people can avoid my current combination.

You should be able to greatly mitigate the noise with two layers of B-Quiet or Dynamat over the rear third of the transmission tunnel (use the hand test with the vehicle running to guide placement) plus one layer of MLV (e.g. Luxury Liner Pro) under the bottom section of the back seat and interposed between the metal plate in the back seat and the foam padding.

Junior1
07-03-13, 06:24 PM
I still have UUC Motor/Tranny/Diff mounts plus the RevShift coupler as well as the Spectre inserts. Before the conversion, the only time I had bad diff whine was prior to replacing with a Gen VI diff.
After that the noise was very subtle but given the performance trade off I was happy...

philistine
07-03-13, 07:06 PM
You should be able to greatly mitigate the noise with two layers of B-Quiet or Dynamat over the rear third of the transmission tunnel (use the hand test with the vehicle running to guide placement) plus one layer of MLV (e.g. Luxury Liner Pro) under the bottom section of the back seat and interposed between the metal plate in the back seat and the foam padding.

That's a good suggestion. I have the RS MMs/transmount and Delrin cradle inserts. I get a resonating rattle around that area cruising interstate speeds.

liqidvenom
07-05-13, 02:34 PM
I really need to stop being lazy and order a set and do them.

DavidBoren
07-06-13, 01:49 PM
Anyone running Mighty Mouse crusher washers with aftermarket cradle bushings?

FuzzyLogic
07-06-13, 02:10 PM
I'm not familiar with those. Regardless, they're not necessary with Revshift bushings.

NickL84
07-25-13, 08:49 PM
That's a good suggestion. I have the RS MMs/transmount and Delrin cradle inserts. I get a resonating rattle around that area cruising interstate speeds.

Hell, I have that now with just the delrin cradle inserts, however, that was completely expected. Once I swap out the cradle bushings for polyurethane ones, I will eliminate the delrin inserts.

I'm actually thinking of doing Revshift bushings all around, and I mean ALL AROUND. Fuzzy, I know you've covered this topic to death, but you are the resident genius for our cars. What do you think about a full Revshift bushing swap? By this I mean:

Cadillac CTS-V Flex Disc Coupler
Differential Mount Bushing
Polyurethane Motor Mounts
Polyurethane Trans Mount Insert
Rear Cradle Bushings
Rear Trailing Arm Bushings
Rear Upper Control Arm Bushings

I'm a bit more than a spirited driver, I tend to get after it daily, so I'm leaning towards the 95A style, other than the motor mounts/trans mount insert, for that, I will use the 80A style.

DavidBoren
07-25-13, 11:15 PM
Hey Trucker, how about an update?

Scott2012
07-25-13, 11:47 PM
I have all blue- everything installed except flex disk. The car is so much more solid, and there is little to no sway compared to stock... I'm just super impressed with the improved handling. I do have a tiny little bit more vibration which I'm guessing is rear diff bushing, but nothing big.
Ride is a tad more rigid and feels like a sports car should.

FuzzyLogic
07-26-13, 06:42 AM
Flex Disc Coupler - avoid until someone on the forum provides a write-up on how to install it correctly. We've had 3-5 guys crash and burn on this one trying to get the driveshaft alignment right.
Differential Bushing - Yes. Get the 95A version. Rental of the Creative Steel differential bushing removal tool is recommended to get the OEM bushing out. Or you can carefully try to sawzall it out, but that'll be a royal PITA.
Motor Mounts - get the 80A version, and get the heat shields if you have headers (or want to get headers).
Trans Mount Insert - get it. There's only one hardness offered.
Rear Cradle Bushings - 95A will not expose you to more NVH than 80A in this bushing application.
Rear Trailing Arm Bushings - Again, 95A will not expose you to more NVH than 80A in this application.
Rear Upper Control Arm Bushings - 95A all the way.

StretchASU
07-26-13, 09:26 AM
Good to see this thread. I just picked up my new to me V and had planned on doing these mods first since I had done all urethane stuff in my M3. I agree with the flex disc. We had them on that car and it was a PITA to get aligned right at times. The car has brand new motor mounts and a brand new transmission mount so I will definitely get the insert, but leave the MM's til its time to get long tubes.

NickL84
07-26-13, 10:31 AM
Fuzzy, once again, you are the man! Thank you! I was an auto tech for 12 years, and still do it on the side for extra money, so Ifeel like there is a torquing sequence, or manufacturer write up on how to do it exactly. I will swing by my dealer at some point
soon and see what I can get my hands on. I do understand that these bolts are more than likely not a "one time use" setup, however, with all new bolts, washers, hardware, we can at least eliminate the variable of worn/used pieces. Maybe if someone hasa factory coupler with the Revshift version side by side, we can really hammer out the differences and get to the bottom of why some members on here have destroyed them.