: wheel bearing problem?



northstar1958
06-22-13, 07:09 PM
2006 DTS (105,000 miles)...Car seems to be alittle louder than normal on smooth roads at 55mph...seems like sometimes i hear it, sometimes i don't. I checked for play...Driver side is tight, passenger side has some play...don't know if its alot or not. I have newer tie tods/struts/strut bearings installed/newer tires/alignment....maybe alittle vibration (once again its hard to tell because its so slight). Anyways...if i need to change the passenger side wheel bearing, do i need to change both? Should i be looking at something else? Thanks

northstar

RicktheRealtor
06-22-13, 07:42 PM
2006 DTS (105,000 miles)...Car seems to be alittle louder than normal on smooth roads at 55mph...seems like sometimes i hear it, sometimes i don't. I checked for play...Driver side is tight, passenger side has some play...don't know if its alot or not. I have newer tie tods/struts/strut bearings installed/newer tires/alignment....maybe alittle vibration (once again its hard to tell because its so slight). Anyways...if i need to change the passenger side wheel bearing, do i need to change both? Should i be looking at something else? Thanks

northstar You do not need to replace both at the same time, unlike some other components. However, it stands to reason that the other side will wear out sooner rather than later. But for some reason, the passenger side front wheel bearings seem to go first. ( at least in my experience).

northstar1958
06-23-13, 09:45 AM
Thanks for the info. One other question, can a wheel bearing make noise but have no play? I think i will plan on changing both bearings when i do it.
Thanks again.

Superjim
06-23-13, 01:08 PM
Thanks for the info. One other question, can a wheel bearing make noise but have no play? I think i will plan on changing both bearings when i do it.
Thanks again.

Yes.. They can make noise and still be tight with no play.

I changed both of mine last fall after the drivers side started making noise.
It is a fairly easy job and not real expensive.
I also changed the brake pads on all four wheels at the same time.

Hub and bearing assembly...Timken 513179 available on Amazon for about 100 bucks.
Updated AC DELCO pads for the front...ACDelco 171-0985.. about 50 bucks...
Updated AC DELCO pads for the rear... ACDelco 171-0954.. about 65 bucks...

Stepside
06-23-13, 11:43 PM
What Jim said.
And I did my wife's 2006 Performance.
Bought the Timken hub/bearings; Raybestos PG Plus Rotors, which are high end rotors; & Akebono pads . . all from Rock Auto. :thumbsup:
The Axle nut is 33mm. You may need a hub puller and if you do .. rent or buy one that pulls from the studs.
I had a problem with the left side being "frozen on" aka rust/corrosion in and around the axle splines.
I finally got it loose :bonkers: by using a puller made for excavation equipment & a 3/4" CP impact wrench capable of :holycrap: 900 to 1000 lb. ft. of torque.:wtf:
Needless to say, I wore a face shield :bulging: when removing that sucker!
A little scary . :ohnoes: . especially when I head a bang/pop 3 times :leaving: as the impact gun was workin' hard to remove it.

Oh, and the right side on many wears first because, that is the side that hits most of the ruts & potholes
due to the crown of the road and where the puddles are.