: Cadillac ATS How To: H.I.D Conversion



Stevo Supremo
06-20-13, 06:58 PM
So if for whatever reason your ATS isn't the premium and doesn't have wonderful H.I.D's here's how to get it done painlessly. I Have seen a LOT of people saying the front bumper has to be removed. THIS IS NOT TRUE! it doesn't have to be this hard, the bulbs can easily be done through the wheel well.

I changed my bulbs around today and decided to document it for people that may not be too familiar with the process, its not too bad, follow this and you shouldn't have too much issue.

!!ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELECTRICAL!!
I didn't but I'm a terrible person :shhh:

1) the lights

I bought Lumens brand 9006 35W 6000K H.I.D kit, was $100 from a local store (I'm too impatient for online ordering lol) I've had great success with this brand in the past, but go with whatever you like, just make sure they're bulb size 9006 color temp is up to you, but 6000 is a nice color and makes good light, any higher and the light output drops.

I hear you can use antiflicker capacitors, I've never used them and never had an issue, but do as you will, I'm just saying, I've never bothered and never had a flickering issue.:rolleyes:
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad229/stevoelsupremo/1_zps99bb7022.jpg (http://s938.photobucket.com/user/stevoelsupremo/media/1_zps99bb7022.jpg.html)

2) These are the tools/things I used
The isopropyl is simply for wiping surfaces down to be taped to ensure they're degreased and dry.
1" spade bit on a drill
Screw driver with selectable socket bits
Torx bit (for fender screws)
Mini Ratchet for upper most fender well screw (hard to get at with the screw driver)
"LePage 2 way tape" for mounting the Ballasts, this shit sets like concrete lol
F*** yeah!
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad229/stevoelsupremo/A_zps0ce0a42c.jpg (http://s938.photobucket.com/user/stevoelsupremo/media/A_zps0ce0a42c.jpg.html)

3) Turn the wheels to the opposite direction in which you'll be working. Then, remove these screws, should be a total of 4 torx screws coming out
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad229/stevoelsupremo/B_zps89ff3dfc.jpg (http://s938.photobucket.com/user/stevoelsupremo/media/B_zps89ff3dfc.jpg.html)

4) pull back the fender liner, its fabric so it wont crease, dont worry. You'll see the cup that houses the headlight bulb, twist it Counter clockwise to take it off. It'll take some jiggling to get it from between the headlight and the metal behind it, but it'll come just be patient and work it out from behind. I tipped it on an angle them pulled it out. This will be very obvious once you see it you'll know what I'm talking about.
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad229/stevoelsupremo/C_zpsf8eac90e.jpg (http://s938.photobucket.com/user/stevoelsupremo/media/C_zpsf8eac90e.jpg.html)

5) headlight bulb exposed after cup is removed
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad229/stevoelsupremo/C1_zps783b2c93.jpg (http://s938.photobucket.com/user/stevoelsupremo/media/C1_zps783b2c93.jpg.html)


6)Drill a hole into the Cup, no this is not dangerous stuff I know some of you spaz at the thought of drilling a hole in a car piece. But Its just a plastic cup and if you use a 1" spade bit and drill in that center dent already marked from the factory you can't muck this up
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad229/stevoelsupremo/E_zps5a7ef09f.jpg (http://s938.photobucket.com/user/stevoelsupremo/media/E_zps5a7ef09f.jpg.html)

The plug sits perfectly
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad229/stevoelsupremo/f_zps2e03e82f.jpg (http://s938.photobucket.com/user/stevoelsupremo/media/f_zps2e03e82f.jpg.html)



7)Now you're read to replace the bulb with the H.I.D bulb. First off
DO NOT TOUCH THE BULB WITH YOUR FINGERS! they're quite sensitive, leave the plastic protective stuff on till its ready to go in. The bulbs will screw in just like the OEM bulbs did.

As for wiring it all up, don't connect it all until AFTER the bulbs screwed into the housing and the cups back on, but here's a diagram of how to do it, its pretty idiot proof (male to female) but we dont all learn at the same pace
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad229/stevoelsupremo/D_zps195cdd45.jpg (http://s938.photobucket.com/user/stevoelsupremo/media/D_zps195cdd45.jpg.html)

8)I mounted my Ballast on the inner portion of those plastic inserts (where the LED fog lamps are if you got them) I used some lepage 2 way tape, stuff sits like concrete and doesn't let go, I've used it on ballasts in the past and never had an issue. I also have a zip tie there JUST IN CASE, always better to be safe than sorry. Ballast mounting isn't really that specific, this is just where I stuck'em but if you have a better spot them by all means... just make sure they're in a safe place and reletively protected from the oncoming elements

I whiped the ballast and plastic down with Rubbing alcohol to ensure its fully degreased and dry for bonding.
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad229/stevoelsupremo/G_zps56a1227a.jpg (http://s938.photobucket.com/user/stevoelsupremo/media/G_zps56a1227a.jpg.html)

9)now connect it all together as shown in step 7) but it'll all be in the car now, just feed the wires down to the ballast.

10) here's the car with stock halogen on the left and HID on the right, much MUCH brighter
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad229/stevoelsupremo/IMG_0009_zps75a1ed7e.jpg (http://s938.photobucket.com/user/stevoelsupremo/media/IMG_0009_zps75a1ed7e.jpg.html)

11) both installed
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad229/stevoelsupremo/IMG_9601_zps0761dd76.jpg (http://s938.photobucket.com/user/stevoelsupremo/media/IMG_9601_zps0761dd76.jpg.html)

12) aim your new lights
If you look at the plastic shroud along the top front of the engine bay you'll see a flap/door thing overtop each headlight, they look like the obvious flaps you'd open to change the bulbs.. sadly, no, they house the adjuster screws.

Lift the flap open and you'll see an adjuster screw, it looks requires a big Hex key OR a big Philips head. Now park the car facing a big wall, like a garage door or the side or a walmart or something, with the lights on you'll see a definite line, this is called the cutoff line. All you need to do is twist each screw (clock wise/counter clockwise makes 'em move up/down) till both lights "cutoff lines" are even and low enough so you don't blind the drivers who'd be unfortunate enough to be coming towards you lol.


Now go enjoy your new superior headlights! I hope this has helped someone and if theirs any questions please ask. But please refrain from any "Oh shoulda used XXXXXXbrand st00pid n00b" or "shoulda used ####K lights pshaah newb!!" I used this brand and this color temp because that's worked for me, you can use whatever brand/color you like. I am open to where you mounted your ballasts or any other constructive help, I just have seen a LOT of questions regarding H.I.D installation and hope this clears a lot up. :yup:


***disclaimer.
If you somehow muck this up, or somehow hurt yourself... and I truly emphasize "somehow" I'm not in anyway liable for your butterfingers :helpless:

Update 2013-11-07:

Someone reported a problem using this procedure and the OP responded:

I haven't checked this thread in a while lol, to be honest I forgot about the D.R.L thing, my lumens kit came with a DRL relay harness (i'll take a pic of the box if you like) I never ended up putting it in when I did the kit because I had no issues with this in the past. But I recently put the harness in as I was having issues with the DRL lights. Since putting in the harness I haven't had the problem anymore. I haven't updated the How-to as it wont' let me.

It's a pain in the ass though as you need to run the cable to the battery in the trunk lol, had I known this I wouldn't have bothered with the H.I.D's in the first place.

In the states DRL's aren't mandatory and shouldn't affect most users, but if any Canadians put HIDS in you're gonna need a DRL relay as your lights will start acting up eventually.

Hoosier Daddy
06-20-13, 08:58 PM
My car came with HIDs but I still think its great you took the time to make an excellent tutorial.

netring
06-20-13, 09:17 PM
Did you have to get resistors to cancel flickering?

Hoosier Daddy
06-20-13, 09:22 PM
Did you have to get resistors to cancel flickering?



I hear you can use antiflicker capacitors, I've never used them and never had an issue, but do as you will, I'm just saying, I've never bothered and never had a flickering issue.:rolleyes:

. .

pissedoffwookiee
06-20-13, 09:57 PM
OK, you rock!!!!......now will a MOD make this the headline premier sticky in a ATS DIY section, and award Stevo the golden beercan award for ATS person of the month

Stevo Supremo
06-20-13, 10:46 PM
My car came with HIDs but I still think its great you took the time to make an excellent tutorial.



OK, you rock!!!!......now will a MOD make this the headline premier sticky in a ATS DIY section, and award Stevo the golden beercan award for ATS person of the month

Thanks guys :), and I hope they will sticky this somewhere because I know a lot of people want to put in H.I.D's but just aren't 100% sure on how to do it and back in my cobalt days I ALWAYS appreciated when people took the time to make a detailed how to on a project :2thumbs: So I thought it might be appreciated here as well and encourage people to give it a shot, its not very expensive, not too difficult a literal night and day difference :highfive:

I will be making more how to's in the future as I continue modding :thumbsup:

pever
06-21-13, 09:31 AM
The part I don't get is how the Wizard of Oz ticket stub was used in the process?

SLA
06-21-13, 10:08 AM
How does the beam pattern look

Stevo Supremo
06-21-13, 04:19 PM
The part I don't get is how the Wizard of Oz ticket stub was used in the process?

haha yeah my G/F just got back from that, said it was a drag, glad I didn't dodged that bulled haha!


How does the beam pattern look

looks pretty good, If its a nice night out I'll snap a pic of the beam pattern. Oh and today at work I went to where they aim the headlights for the XTS. Apparently the ATS is the same procedure so everything I posted about aiming is good to go :) theirs no horizontal axis to aiming these lights F.E.I

flycaster
06-21-13, 04:52 PM
Excellent DIY, Stevo. Let's see more of these: Pictures and text.
I've been on many BMW forums (E46-types and Z4) and when I got the ATS, I was a disappointed with their forum as there was no DIY sub-forum. But then I realized that this is a new car, and it will take a while. Also, I believe (assume) that the "Cadillac crowd," for the most part, probably have the money to have mechanics do the mods, and thus the DIY pool is won't bee too big. As time goes on, I hope I am wrong and we get our DIY sub-forum.

Stevo Supremo
06-21-13, 07:02 PM
for sure^ they're still new cars, I just felt like H.I.D's were a very large mod that a lot of people will want to/do want to have done. Coming from the tuner crowd I generally like to do stuff myself lol. I DO know however that there are certain things that should be done by well trained hand, but theirs also many things that are easily doable yourself that the thought of paying to have it done makes me sick lmao!

flycaster
06-22-13, 11:42 AM
...theirs also many things that are easily doable yourself that the thought of paying to have it done makes me sick lmao!

Exactly! The mods I've done on my BMWs, although relatively easy mods, would not (could not) have been done by me without having a good descriptive DIY to give me the "courage" to do the mod. A prime example of the type of modding that I'm willing to do would be the HID conversion (although I'm not really sure that I need it) and removing the fender side markers to have them painted the color of the car (will save a few bucks by not having the paint shop guy do it...also, no need to leave the car). BTW, have already done the V-1 hotwire install (fuse box>run wire between dash and A pillar>up A pillar>recessed in headliner> to driver's visor).

Stevo Supremo
06-22-13, 10:38 PM
Yeah on my cobalt I did everything from Retro fitting stock headlights for H.I.D's to installing forged pistons.

Theirs obviously things I wouldn't do to my ATS without a trained hand, but theirs also a LOT of stuff I just couldn't pay someone to do

oh and I to thought the stock halogens were alright then I swapped put H.I.D's in :sneaky:

bollyjack
06-23-13, 02:15 PM
thanks for the thread, i'm actually more interested in the LED pipeline

FDNY-L107
06-23-13, 04:14 PM
Very nice write-up Stevo and thanks again.

Just wanted to double check - with your kit now installed without installing anti-flickers, your DRL's work correctly and you are not receiving any codes on the dash for bulb out?


Thanks again.

Stevo Supremo
06-23-13, 08:07 PM
thanks for the thread, i'm actually more interested in the LED pipeline

no problem, and yeah thats on my list lol, will write that up to once I figure it out


Very nice write-up Stevo and thanks again.

Just wanted to double check - with your kit now installed without installing anti-flickers, your DRL's work correctly and you are not receiving any codes on the dash for bulb out?


Thanks again.

thats right, I dont have anti flicker capacitors and my DRL's run just fine and am not throwing any codes again, install them if it lets you sleep better, but I've never bothered and haven't ever had an issue.

netring
06-25-13, 03:19 PM
What torx bit size did you need?

FDNY-L107
06-25-13, 04:16 PM
thats right, I dont have anti flicker capacitors and my DRL's run just fine and am not throwing any codes again, install them if it lets you sleep better, but I've never bothered and haven't ever had an issue.


Thanks Stevo. Makes sense, as I'm not seeing any voltage drop from the DRL's switching to the Headlights. Again, nice job.

FDNY-L107
06-30-13, 07:33 PM
Hi Folks,

Not to highjack Stevo's thread, but I just completed my HID install this weekend. Here are some notes that I thought I would share along....

1.) Removing the stock air box provides additional access and makes things much easier on the driver's side (easy removal - just loosen the intake tube clamp and "pop" straight up. The box has rubber grommet type mounts underneath).
2.) I also removed the engine deck cover directly over the radiator. This made running the positive wire string for the driver's side simple, as you will need to tap off the battery junction box (or another positive pickup), located on the pass side. There is a provision track to route the wire already in place and in fact, all you have to do is follow the wire that is routed through there already. You cannot miss it as it is right in front of you. Removing the deck cover also provides some additional access on each side as well. The lock pins are easy to remove and reinstall.
3.) My kit was KBCar Stuff, Xenon w/Phillips bulbs This is my 7th kit and install from them. As every kit is different, I am experiencing flickering in DRL mode only. I ordered my CAN Bus anti-flickering plug-ins ($25) @ KBCar Stuff. That should take care of it. I know that Stevo indicated he has not, but again, each kit is different. Up to you if you want to install first and see if you are good to go or buy the plug-ins and have them ready during your install.
4.) Optionally, I also removed each tire on the side I was working on. This gave me much more room to work and gently roll back each fender well as to not damage it.

These little added steps made the install very easy and allows you much more access. There are a host of location choices to mount the ballasts once you are in there. Take your time and be sure to test each side once you have everything connected - PRIOR to putting everything back.

Good luck.

Stevo Supremo
07-01-13, 12:55 AM
Hi Folks,

Not to highjack Stevo's thread, but I just completed my HID install this weekend. Here are some notes that I thought I would share along....

1.) Removing the stock air box provides additional access and makes things much easier on the driver's side (easy removal - just loosen the intake tube clamp and "pop" straight up. The box has rubber grommet type mounts underneath).
yeah I have an aftermarket intake, so I did cheat a bit and go above, but with the passenger side not really allowing overhead work space I didn't include it because you cant really go overhead theree, but I suppose if you wanna get a feel for it removing the air box can give you some wiggle room.
2.) I also removed the engine deck cover directly over the radiator. This made running the positive wire string for the driver's side simple,as you will need to tap off the battery junction box (or another positive pickup), located on the pass side. There is a provision track to route the wire already in place and in fact, all you have to do is follow the wire that is routed through there already. You cannot miss it as it is right in front of you. Removing the deck cover also provides some additional access on each side as well. The lock pins are easy to remove and reinstall.
tap the postive?! I've installed well over 11 H.I.D kits into my/friends cars and have never had to tap a power line, must be a strange kit you're runnin not saying you're wrong, thats just strange lol
3.) My kit was KBCar Stuff, Xenon w/Phillips bulbs This is my 7th kit and install from them. As every kit is different, I am experiencing flickering in DRL mode only. I ordered my CAN Bus anti-flickering plug-ins ($25) @ KBCar Stuff. That should take care of it. I know that Stevo indicated he has not, but again, each kit is different. Up to you if you want to install first and see if you are good to go or buy the plug-ins and have them ready during your install.
4.) Optionally, I also removed each tire on the side I was working on. This gave me much more room to work and gently roll back each fender well as to not damage it.
Yup, removing the wheel will give ya more work space, I didn't, but again, my guide is just that, a guide, and I appreciate tips like this to those who dont think about it, removing the wheel may make your life easier, I didn't bother, but give it a shot if you feel you dont have the room. But again with the anit flicker, I didnt need it, I know every kits different (as I didn't need to tap a postive wire or anything) but my DRL's dont flicker(had my G/F and a number of friends confirm this for me so I know its not just me convincing myself lol).

These little added steps made the install very easy and allows you much more access. There are a host of location choices to mount the ballasts once you are in there. Take your time and be sure to test each side once you have everything connected - PRIOR to putting everything back.

Good luck.

on that note, how do you like your H.I.D's? waaayyy better night vision eh? and it adds such a different look to the car at night, I LOOVVEE that bluish white light :D! what color temperature did you order?

FDNY-L107
07-01-13, 12:21 PM
I went with 4300K. I wanted to get as close to the stock HID color as possible. Thanks.

pissedoffwookiee
08-02-13, 12:17 AM
BUMP.......this deserves a sticky or a DIY section, fantastic work

roadpie4u
08-02-13, 10:51 AM
looks pretty good, If its a nice night out I'll snap a pic of the beam pattern.
Wherabouts in Canada are you? I'm in WNY if you want a car with factory HIDs to compare beam pattern/dispersal.

Thanks for the writeup! I'll send you a PM on it - I'm building a database of alpha chassis information including mods, guides and details and I'd like to discuss adding this to it with your permission.

And third? Now I really want an Alexander Keiths. Haven't had any since last time I was near Toronto. :banghead:

Stevo Supremo
08-02-13, 12:04 PM
BUMP.......this deserves a sticky or a DIY section, fantastic work

Thanks for bumping it :) I Pm'd a mod about it, we'll see I guess


Wherabouts in Canada are you? I'm in WNY if you want a car with factory HIDs to compare beam pattern/dispersal.

Thanks for the writeup! I'll send you a PM on it - I'm building a database of alpha chassis information including mods, guides and details and I'd like to discuss adding this to it with your permission.



And third? Now I really want an Alexander Keiths. Haven't had any since last time I was near Toronto. :banghead:

thanks again, I pm'd ya back :) I live about 2 hours from the niagara border lol, kinda far, I compared it to an ATS at a dealership and the HIDS I put it actually look a bit... sharper? could be because of the colour temp I used but the cutoff after aiming is identical.

Oh and yes, Keith's definitely kicks ass :D

Rolex
08-03-13, 11:04 AM
EXCELLENT write up with pics. 10/10

Stuck to the top. :yup:


*disclaimer: nobody will ever see this thread again because nobody reads the stickies. ;)

Stevo Supremo
08-05-13, 01:39 AM
awesome thanks! and lol +1 to nobody reading stickies.. but hopefully with there being so few stickies at the moment people will read the few that are there lol, but thanks again :)

Figo
08-06-13, 11:06 PM
I tried Stevo's method but after taking off the screws still find the fabric hard to take apart to leave space to even see the bulb cover!

Is there anyone in San Francisco Bay area? I'm willing to buy you a dinner or give you a $50 gift card at your choice to make it happen:)

I guess for someone who did it, it's probably a 15min job on each side.

Btw I'm not looking for HID conversion. I bought these xenon like regular ones:

133633

Thanks!

Stevo Supremo
08-07-13, 06:43 PM
I tried Stevo's method but after taking off the screws still find the fabric hard to take apart to leave space to even see the bulb cover!

Is there anyone in San Francisco Bay area? I'm willing to buy you a dinner or give you a $50 gift card at your choice to make it happen:)

I guess for someone who did it, it's probably a 15min job on each side.

Btw I'm not looking for HID conversion. I bought these xenon like regular ones:

133633

Thanks!

lol damn... if you lived close, just doing the bulbs is probably 10 mins each side

Figo
08-07-13, 08:26 PM
lol damn... if you lived close, just doing the bulbs is probably 10 mins each side

haha. I guess it's because the fact it's a leasing car so I'm afraid to do something bad to the fabric. Also, in your pic, I have trouble understanding the top screw you mentioned. Is it the one on direct top of the tire, or the way way back on the edge (the other side of the wheel)?

I think if I use more strength, then taking the fabric away from the wheel will be easy, but I'm not confident if away too much it's easy to install back. Do you have extra picture showing the extend that you pulled the fabric?

Thanks!

TheCaptain
08-09-13, 11:42 AM
So, doing an HID conversion Steve, other guys... do you still have High beam capability? How does a non HID ATS use high beams?

Does it just move an adjuster in the housing to go to full like an HID equipped car?
Or does it have another bulb for high beams?
Or do you lose high beam functionality with this mod?

Stevo Supremo
08-09-13, 12:19 PM
haha. I guess it's because the fact it's a leasing car so I'm afraid to do something bad to the fabric. Also, in your pic, I have trouble understanding the top screw you mentioned. Is it the one on direct top of the tire, or the way way back on the edge (the other side of the wheel)?

I think if I use more strength, then taking the fabric away from the wheel will be easy, but I'm not confident if away too much it's easy to install back. Do you have extra picture showing the extend that you pulled the fabric?
Thanks!

Lol Yeah the Housing "cup" takes a bit of jiggling and Tetris maneuvering to get it outta there, they put everything quite tight in both sides of the engine bay.In step 4 you can see how far I pulled the fabric for most of the work, but the stuffs pretty flexible, its not like the old plastic liner that deformed if you looked at it the wrong way. Oh and be careful with those "super bright blueish" halogen bulbs, they're wayy too expensive, dont shine nearly as bright as HIDs(eventhough the box says they do) and tend to burn out pretty damned quick, and to be honest, if you're putting those in, once you've gotten the bulb out its really not that much more work to just go the extra little bit and swap to H.I.D's. Last I saw, those SylvaniaZXE halogen bulbs were like $60/70 :helpless:, my HID kit was $100.. so.. yeah :yup:

Oh and yes being a lease, you're still living with that car for 2,3 years or so, thats quite a while. Then when its time to go back you can either send it back with the HIDS (like they care/know) or swap+cash it with someone else who has an ATS in the area that has Halogens, no big deal.

Take it like you will, but I put those "super halogens" in my cobalt and every year or so they'd burn out, I finally got sick of it and retro-fitted my cobalts headlights for H.I.D's, never looked back lol


So, doing an HID conversion Steve, other guys... do you still have High beam capability? How does a non HID ATS use high beams?

Does it just move an adjuster in the housing to go to full like an HID equipped car?
Or does it have another bulb for high beams?
Or do you lose high beam functionality with this mod?

Nope you dont lose any of the normal features, you completely retain the High/Low beam functionality. The factory Halogens use the same shutters as the factory HID equipped cars, surprisingly they didn't cheap out on that one (suppose from a production standpoint it makes sense) ,making this H.I.D conversion so simple. If anyone here has halogens, turn the engine off and flick the highbeam, you'll hear eye lids moving up front.

** oh and an update anyways

so its been almost 2 months of having these and have had no issues at all, drove through a borderline monsoon, that went up to the bottom fascia to. I never did put those anti-flicker resistors in and haven't had a DRL flickering issue to speak of. Gotta say I'm damn happy with this Mod for sure!

TheCaptain
08-10-13, 11:37 AM
Good news then! Thanks Steve!

redhead_823
08-20-13, 10:40 AM
I installed a set of SDX Kensun HID's last night. Well, I installed one side. Then I tested them and the HID was about half the brightness of the stock headlight, so I am returning the HID's. Waste of time.

Stevo Supremo
08-20-13, 10:50 AM
Dunno what to tell you^ was your new bulb aimed at the ground? what color temp did you get? higher temperatures are a waste as you cant see the light from them as well. We need the details here... But my new lights are 10X brighter than the stock halogens and I think most people who do the conversion can attest to that.

pissedoffwookiee
08-20-13, 07:26 PM
Dunno what to tell you^ was your new bulb aimed at the ground? what color temp did you get? higher temperatures are a waste as you cant see the light from them as well. We need the details here... But my new lights are 10X brighter than the stock halogens and I think most people who do the conversion can attest to that.

sounds like 10000k or 12000k instead of the nice super bright 4300k

Stevo Supremo
08-21-13, 11:41 AM
most likely^ I put in 6K, just enough to look blue but still low enough level to be in the visible spectrum. Anything more than 6K and theres a substantial dimminish on light output

redhead_823
08-21-13, 02:49 PM
Dunno what to tell you^ was your new bulb aimed at the ground? what color temp did you get? higher temperatures are a waste as you cant see the light from them as well. We need the details here... But my new lights are 10X brighter than the stock halogens and I think most people who do the conversion can attest to that.

It was 6000k. I wanted 4300k's but the 6000's were $20 cheaper. I tried aiming it up and down, but it seemed like that moved the whole projector, not just the bulb.

Stevo Supremo
08-21-13, 04:00 PM
lol dunno what to tell ya^ I have 6K and they're muuuccchhh brigher than my Halogens were, my dad brought an ATS home one night with halogens and we compared them and mine were waaayyyy brighter

Renovatis
09-03-13, 01:42 AM
You might have done what I did my first time. My DDM bulb fit into the projector 3 different ways some how. I don't know if anyone else has had this problem but I first thought it was something with the wiring or the bulbs. The bulb would be bright as could be if I was just holding it, but soon as I put it into the projector it would be dim. Had to move them around a couple times to get them in the right spot.

Does anyone know what way the bulb should be inserted? Metal rod on the bulb down? Up? Does it matter?

pissedoffwookiee
09-03-13, 04:22 AM
You might have done what I did my first time. My DDM bulb fit into the projector 3 different ways some how. I don't know if anyone else has had this problem but I first thought it was something with the wiring or the bulbs. The bulb would be bright as could be if I was just holding it, but soon as I put it into the projector it would be dim. Had to move them around a couple times to get them in the right spot.

Does anyone know what way the bulb should be inserted? Metal rod on the bulb down? Up? Does it matter?

Comparing Stevos pictures to my bulbs, it looks like the elbow of the halogens pointed up, this would the rod side up with these bulbs on my desk.

another thing, i wont know if this was cheap bulbs in your kit or a problem with our lights until i get in there, but with 2 fat and 1 thin tab and not in a perfect triange the 9006 bulbs should only fit one way

the kensun kit is $50, i would be way hesitant to put so inexpensive a kit in the cadillac, I recently had issues with a shop installing a cheap kit in my wifes car. as i'm writing this i have my $55 morimoto XB35 bulbs on the desk in front of me and my kit was $170, this seems like not much for what looks like an OEM quality setup and at 5 years the waranty beats our OEM waranty for the whole car by a year. my opinion, this seems cheaper than than the amazon kit, or at the very least go with the lumens kit, Stevo has shown us works without a hitch

if i could get the kit to install without drilling the cap like THIS (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDx0L86vQkw) i might be tempted to remove the bumper (i have a mechanic helping me)

Hasselhof
09-10-13, 09:00 PM
Strange, I installed morimoto bulbs and ballasts and i have flickering. The only way I could get it to function right was to turn off the auto light control. Do you still have fully functioning auto lights? I pulled it all out until I can figure out a solution.

pissedoffwookiee
09-11-13, 02:28 PM
Strange, I installed morimoto bulbs and ballasts and i have flickering. The only way I could get it to function right was to turn off the auto light control. Do you still have fully functioning auto lights? I pulled it all out until I can figure out a solution.

do you have the morimoto can-bus adapters? i got those too, hopefully my mechanic can squeeze me in sunday to get all my lighting installed, thanks for letting us know this, hopefully the adapters make it right, Bryce2.0T has this kit in the car and said its incredible

Stevo Supremo
09-12-13, 01:33 PM
Strange, I installed morimoto bulbs and ballasts and i have flickering. The only way I could get it to function right was to turn off the auto light control. Do you still have fully functioning auto lights? I pulled it all out until I can figure out a solution.

yup I still have fully functioning automatic lights, I've never used that kit and as someone stated below maybe it needs the antiflicker modules. So far since writing this I haven't had any flickering issues.

mechevar
09-15-13, 12:39 PM
Just curious, what local stores carry these kits? I went to the Lumens website and could not find any "where to buy" links.

pissedoffwookiee
09-16-13, 02:38 PM
Strange, I installed morimoto bulbs and ballasts and i have flickering. The only way I could get it to function right was to turn off the auto light control. Do you still have fully functioning auto lights? I pulled it all out until I can figure out a solution.

installed mine, installed nicely, there is a great location to bolt the ballast to and i love them, one caveat is i get a teeny bit of flickering on the passenger side only at idle it's intermittent and doesnt do it when the car is off (when the courtesy/locate lights come on when you unlock) or when driving, the output is amazing and the auto headlights work perfectly 5000K is beautiful, i also had to trim down one of the tabs on the 9006 HID bulb to match the philips halogen i removed.

I called TRS and they told me to give the system 30 Days for the bulbs and ballasts to break in and some little flickers like i'm experienceing is normal and that the ATS is actually using a 9012 bulb which is almost an exact match for the 9006 except for a slightly smaller upper left tab, and there was not HID equivalent so trimming is required and this modification does not affect the 5 year warranty on the bulbs....these guys are awsome, even the DRL works and the bulb warmup is fast

Stevo Supremo
09-17-13, 07:49 PM
Glad to hear it! ^ weird I didn't have to trim my tabs.. but ah well, simple thing worked I see. C'mon though.. how much better are the HIDS to stock eh?! :worship:

pissedoffwookiee
09-17-13, 08:20 PM
Glad to hear it! ^ weird I didn't have to trim my tabs.. but ah well, simple thing worked I see. C'mon though.. how much better are the HIDS to stock eh?! :worship:

Thanks for the DIY guide Mr Supremo.......you rock!!!!

:thankyou::thankyou::thankyou:

mechevar
09-20-13, 01:47 PM
Stevo Supremo, thanks a ton for this guide, it was perfect!

I ended up using the iJDMTOY kit
http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Slim-Digital-Ballast-Xenon-Headlights-p/hid_conversion_kit.htm
The Error Free CAN-bus decoders [Add $18.99] is required, otherwise the lights do not work. The total is with shipping comes to around $100 (they ship ridiculously fast too).

Honestly, you are going to spend the majority of your time trying to wiggle off the dang cap and then trying to creatively hide all the wires and mini bricks. I ended up using double stick tape (alcohol wipe everything down like Stevo said) to assemble a single pallet out of the bricks and then sliding that single pallet on the shelf below the headlight.

You can see a hint of the blue light in the photo I added. In all honesty, pictures don't do the lights justice. The light is way more impressive in person.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mnmechevar/sets/72157634683500536/

flycaster
09-20-13, 03:11 PM
After the install, did your daylight running lights (if you have them) also work without any problems?

Stevo Supremo
09-20-13, 03:27 PM
Thanks for the DIY guide Mr Supremo.......you rock!!!!

:thankyou::thankyou::thankyou:

You most welcome sir, glad I could help! :thumbsup:


Stevo Supremo, thanks a ton for this guide, it was perfect!



Honestly, you are going to spend the majority of your time trying to wiggle off the dang cap and then trying to creatively hide all the wires and mini bricks. I ended up using double stick tape (alcohol wipe everything down like Stevo said) to assemble a single pallet out of the bricks and then sliding that single pallet on the shelf below the headlight.

You can see a hint of the blue light in the photo I added. In all honesty, pictures don't do the lights justice. The light is way more impressive in person.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mnmechevar/sets/72157634683500536/

Yup, thats what I was refering to as the "cup" or cap or whatever, thats what I said will take a while trying to sorta jiggle out lol. Pictures really dont do them justice either, when you pull up to another car with Halogens it makes the light look soooo dull and yello now!



After the install, did your daylight running lights (if you have them) also work without any problems?

I dont have any issues with DRLS, I cant really see why anyone should have any issues either, as long as you're not doing something you shouldn't be like chopping up wires and stuff :cookoo: :)

mechevar
09-20-13, 03:56 PM
I forgot to mention, you don't need to be shy about bending and pulling on the wheel liner. It pops back into place like a plastic milk jug. Also, my lights are in the 'auto' position all the time. With the CAN-bus everything is perfect. Lights reach full intensity in just a few seconds from a cold start.

pissedoffwookiee
09-20-13, 04:09 PM
Stevo Supremo, thanks a ton for this guide, it was perfect!

I ended up using the iJDMTOY kit
http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Slim-Digital-Ballast-Xenon-Headlights-p/hid_conversion_kit.htm
The Error Free CAN-bus decoders [Add $18.99] is required, otherwise the lights do not work. The total is with shipping comes to around $100 (they ship ridiculously fast too).

Honestly, you are going to spend the majority of your time trying to wiggle off the dang cap and then trying to creatively hide all the wires and mini bricks. I ended up using double stick tape (alcohol wipe everything down like Stevo said) to assemble a single pallet out of the bricks and then sliding that single pallet on the shelf below the headlight.

You can see a hint of the blue light in the photo I added. In all honesty, pictures don't do the lights justice. The light is way more impressive in person.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mnmechevar/sets/72157634683500536/


Glad to hear it! ^ weird I didn't have to trim my tabs.. but ah well, simple thing worked I see. C'mon though.. how much better are the HIDS to stock eh?! :worship:

mine are so bright way brighter (in terms of output than i expected)

that little shelf under the light assembly was perfect my ballast came with an installable mounting tab an i bolted it to the end of that I then routed the wires in front of the shelf (between shelf and bumper) did some zip tie cable managing including zip tie to the shelf to ensure there was not tugging or movement and put her back together and BAM!!!! bountiful lighting goodness......better than factory, after seeing these, even if i had factory HID's i would upgrade to these bulbs 5000k is so fantastic

paul780
09-22-13, 04:47 PM
no problem, and yeah thats on my list lol, will write that up to once I figure it out



thats right, I dont have anti flicker capacitors and my DRL's run just fine and am not throwing any codes again, install them if it lets you sleep better, but I've never bothered and haven't ever had an issue.

Can you confirm you are still having no issues with your DRL's? I ask because after installing an HID kit I've had inconsistent results. Usually the DRL's will not come on automatically after starting the car. I have to turn auto light mode "off" then back "on". This usually kicks them on, but even this isn't 100% all the time.
Have both the ballast and warning cancelers installed, so I am thinking the issue has to do with the manufacturer of my kit. But before I start giving them too much crap I wanted to make sure your Phillips HID kit works correctly all of the time.
As a side note, this is the HID kit I had purchased:
http://www.carxenonhidkits.com/9006-xenon-lights-hid-conversion-kit-slim-ballast-55w/

Thanks,

pissedoffwookiee
09-23-13, 05:30 AM
one thing to consider is the nature of the two types of lights, the car starts with halogen, and is built to run with bulbs that provide load resistance, the system looks for that to know all is ok.

another is halogen lights use more power than hid and a running hid system will be easier on the car to power, but a hid system needs more power than a halogen setup to fire the ballast this is where a lot of hid kits fall down. cars with standard lighting systems that cannot provide enough initial power usually need a relay setup to be more reliable.

lastly your using an overdrive system with a 55 watt setup, although these still use less power to run they require even more initial power to fire the ballasts than a standard 35 watt set.

I would recommend you use the kits other members have proven works with our car, mine lights up so reliably ( both drl and normal modes) you'd think it was meant to be there, so far the kits I know work are as follows (members feel free to add yours if it works)

lumens 35 watt kit
ijdmtoy 35watt kit with can bus decoders
the retrofit source morimoto 35 watt kit with can bus adapters

Renovatis
09-29-13, 10:12 PM
To add to pissedoffwookiee:

DDM 35 watt kit with error eliminators

I did have to trim the tab on one side for some reason... Also, my kit completely took away DRL, which I prefer. I get no light or flickers in the day time at start up and have full function at night time upon start.

Hasselhof
09-30-13, 08:34 PM
installed mine, installed nicely, there is a great location to bolt the ballast to and i love them, one caveat is i get a teeny bit of flickering on the passenger side only at idle it's intermittent and doesnt do it when the car is off (when the courtesy/locate lights come on when you unlock) or when driving, the output is amazing and the auto headlights work perfectly 5000K is beautiful, i also had to trim down one of the tabs on the 9006 HID bulb to match the philips halogen i removed. I called TRS and they told me to give the system 30 Days for the bulbs and ballasts to break in and some little flickers like i'm experienceing is normal and that the ATS is actually using a 9012 bulb which is almost an exact match for the 9006 except for a slightly smaller upper left tab, and there was not HID equivalent so trimming is required and this modification does not affect the 5 year warranty on the bulbs....these guys are awsome, even the DRL works and the bulb warmup is fast

Ok so yours are working then 100%. When I called trs about my issue and if the can-bus adapters would be the fix, they told me they wouldn't be needed and that maybe anti-flicker modules would work, but I'd most likely lose the automatic lights. I think I'm going to order both the can-bus and the anti flicker and see how they work separately.

pissedoffwookiee
09-30-13, 09:52 PM
Ok so yours are working then 100%. When I called trs about my issue and if the can-bus adapters would be the fix, they told me they wouldn't be needed and that maybe anti-flicker modules would work, but I'd most likely lose the automatic lights. I think I'm going to order both the can-bus and the anti flicker and see how they work separately.

not 100% yet i'm 2 weeks into their suggested 30 days i still get occasional flickering on passenger side only and only at idle, not at speed and not when motor is off, other than this they fire like oem super reliable even he drl fire them reliably, i would be over the moon impressed if not for this mild issue i hope goes away like TRS said.

BobnLou
10-06-13, 01:49 AM
Outstanding "how to" HID conversion. My question is, are your DRL working normally? On my 2013 base ATS, my relay buzzes when the DRL are on. With high or low beam on, everything works great. I am working to find a solution. Thanks again for your time and effort.

thebucky84
10-06-13, 02:43 AM
Has anyone used the OPT7 kit yet? They have a kit together just for the ATS.


Edit: OPT7 will need the capacitors

samer2214
10-27-13, 02:51 AM
i followed this step by steo exactly . but when i unlock the car, they work fine but when i turn the car on, the dont work. they come on and off. PLEASE HELP

l.cassar
11-06-13, 08:12 PM
I followed the directions exactly, used the exact kit as steveo but i had a really hard time getting one bulb to lock in place, when it did lock in place the beam was different than the other side. Any ideas?

l.cassar
11-07-13, 10:30 AM
Just unlocked the car, HID's came on. Started driving they shut off and i could not get them to fire up again. Put the headlight control on auto, covered the 'dome' so the car would turn on headlights, the dash displayed the icon saying they were on and they were not. This is with the lumens kit, i'm going to be removing them today or tomorrow. Unless someone knows what do to?

l.cassar
11-07-13, 02:08 PM
UPDATE: I spoke with lumens customer service and he told me that the kit is not designed to work plug and play with DRL's as in our Cadillac ats. You need a DRL relay harness, to pull power from the battery in DRL mode. The DRL is lower power so it cannot fire up the ballast. It will only work under full power plug and play.
AS FOR NOW TAKE LUMENS OFF THE LIST OF WORKING KITS.

Stevo Supremo
11-07-13, 04:44 PM
Yeah I haven't checked this thread in a while lol, to be honest I forgot about the D.R.L thing, my lumens kit came with a DRL relay harness (i'll take a pic of the box if you like) I never ended up putting it in when I did the kit because I had no issues with this in the past. But I recently put the harness in as I was having issues with the DRL lights. Since putting in the harness I haven't had the problem anymore. I haven't updated the How-to as it wont' let me.

It's a pain in the ass though as you need to run the cable to the battery in the trunk lol, had I known this I wouldn't have bothered with the H.I.D's in the first place.

In the states DRL's aren't mandatory and shouldn't affect most users, but if any Canadians put HIDS in you're gonna need a DRL relay as your lights will start acting up eventually.

Again, it wouldn't let me edit the original post to write this in.

pissedoffwookiee
11-07-13, 06:03 PM
Yeah I haven't checked this thread in a while lol, to be honest I forgot about the D.R.L thing, my lumens kit came with a DRL relay harness (i'll take a pic of the box if you like) I never ended up putting it in when I did the kit because I had no issues with this in the past. But I recently put the harness in as I was having issues with the DRL lights. Since putting in the harness I haven't had the problem anymore. I haven't updated the How-to as it wont' let me.

It's a pain in the ass though as you need to run the cable to the battery in the trunk lol, had I known this I wouldn't have bothered with the H.I.D's in the first place.

In the states DRL's aren't mandatory and shouldn't affect most users, but if any Canadians put HIDS in you're gonna need a DRL relay as your lights will start acting up eventually.

Again, it wouldn't let me edit the original post to write this in.

you shouldn't have to go to the back, Cadillac has done the work for you by running the battery wires to a distribution block in the engine bay, this is where i powered my LED DRLs from, it has big thick wires that look like they're straight from the battery, it looks like very little if anything at all attaches to the battery in the back and it all comes from this distro block

l.cassar
11-07-13, 08:28 PM
well ill be taking them out tomorrow, dont want to throw any more money/ time into this with poor results. I'm using epoxy putty to plug the holes that were made in the headlight cup/cover. i couldn't find a proper plug anywhere!

flycaster
11-07-13, 11:05 PM
you shouldn't have to go to the back, Cadillac has done the work for you by running the battery wires to a distribution block in the engine bay, this is where i powered my LED DRLs from, it has big thick wires that look like they're straight from the battery, it looks like very little if anything at all attaches to the battery in the back and it all comes from this distro block

How did you attach the wires to the +/- posts...solder on alligator clips?

pissedoffwookiee
11-08-13, 12:38 AM
................

pissedoffwookiee
11-08-13, 12:47 AM
How did you attach the wires to the +/- posts...solder on alligator clips?

crimped on fork terminals to positive and negative wires, removed power distribution block cover and unbolted one of the wires and bolted it on, and bolted negative to ground near negative jump post, re-attached distro block cover. you can see the thick wire coming in from the battery and attaching to the block (a metal plate) and a 3 not as thick wires coming off the block to power various things in the engine.

159513

thats the power distribution block behind the fuse box to the right of the coolant reservoir

the big wire from the battery comes straight up under the verticle post and you can see large fuses there too

Stevo Supremo
11-08-13, 10:45 AM
can't believe I forgot about that jumper post... my life could have been so much easier :thepan: ah well, c'est la vie

pissedoffwookiee
11-08-13, 04:23 PM
can't believe I forgot about that jumper post... my life could have been so much easier :thepan: ah well, c'est la vie

lol, you're looking at it wrong, you should instead think of yourself as too big a stud to do it the easy way, and and tapping into the block is only obvious to the average person who couldn't possibly grasp the genius of your methods
:lies:

Kalibr
11-15-13, 05:35 PM
AS FOR NOW TAKE LUMENS OFF THE LIST OF WORKING KITS.

I don't think it's specific to the brand of kit. I installed a Kensun kit last week and am having the same issue. The HIDs do not fire up as DRLs unless you happen to start your car in a garage (which in my case, is 80% of the time). So, it's not a deal breaker for me. The increased light output of the HIDs far outweighs this small annoyance.

pissedoffwookiee
11-15-13, 06:41 PM
Mine do, I would say TRS are 100% but not there yet, I need to trim and rotate my bulbs to eliminate electrode shadow and install a larger capacitor than the one in the can bus on the passenger side till then I give it a 98% these lights are awesome and super reliable they fire every time both as DRL and headlights

Stevo Supremo
11-16-13, 09:41 AM
How can you say

"take lumens off the list"

When mine work just fine? if you're having issues either turn your DRLS off or put in a relay.

yohaishi
12-12-13, 10:32 PM
Do you have the flicking problem after doing the HID in the day time?
for sure^ they're still new cars, I just felt like H.I.D's were a very large mod that a lot of people will want to/do want to have done. Coming from the tuner crowd I generally like to do stuff myself lol. I DO know however that there are certain things that should be done by well trained hand, but theirs also many things that are easily doable yourself that the thought of paying to have it done makes me sick lmao!

Stevo Supremo
12-13-13, 01:06 AM
No, they dont flicker, the only thing I had to do different after this mod was pop some DRL relays in (simple plug and play connector to the power post) as mines a canadian car with the mandatory DRL. You could also just buy Canbus ballasts and avoid the relays.

Djxcezive
01-05-14, 06:34 PM
Hey Steve,

Is the Canbus setup have the relays already built in? I recently purchased a 2014 Cadillac Ats without hid setup. I purchased an hid kit- xanatec and installed accordingly to your wonderful directions! Everything works well except that after 4 mins both hid lights turn off and won't come back on even if I mess with the manual light switch. Once I turn off the motor then they come back on. Base off everybody's experience with hid lights and DRL, my situation seems backwards. My lights of come on in the beginning so it sounds different from DRL issue. Well wanted to share my situation online to see if anybody had any solutions. I am leasing this vehicle and was going to just replace the caps at the end to avoid any issues. Really wanted my hid lights but don't want to run any wires away from the light assembly as I would have to hide them or remove them everytime I took my vehicle to the dealership for service. Please help! Don't know if I should just purchase another set or just quit while I am not that far in a hole.

pissedoffwookiee
01-06-14, 09:41 PM
Hey Steve,

Is the Canbus setup have the relays already built in? I recently purchased a 2014 Cadillac Ats without hid setup. I purchased an hid kit- xanatec and installed accordingly to your wonderful directions! Everything works well except that after 4 mins both hid lights turn off and won't come back on even if I mess with the manual light switch. Once I turn off the motor then they come back on. Base off everybody's experience with hid lights and DRL, my situation seems backwards. My lights of come on in the beginning so it sounds different from DRL issue. Well wanted to share my situation online to see if anybody had any solutions. I am leasing this vehicle and was going to just replace the caps at the end to avoid any issues. Really wanted my hid lights but don't want to run any wires away from the light assembly as I would have to hide them or remove them everytime I took my vehicle to the dealership for service. Please help! Don't know if I should just purchase another set or just quit while I am not that far in a hole.

get inline canbus adapters and possibly even capacitors, power is not your problem since they light up, your problem is the BCM (Body Control Module) is turning them off because it senses the lights are not right the canbus adapters do the magic trick of pretending to be Halogens so the car is happy, thereby allowing the juice to continue to flow, after this if you have flickering that is from the modulated pulsing of power the car is using and the capacitors act as line conditioners absorbing and storing the pulses and outputting a smooth power the ballasts want

Djxcezive
01-07-14, 12:37 AM
Hey pissedoffwookiee,
Thanks for the reply. Do you think that the ijmtoy kit with the CAN-bus digital decoders would do the trick alone? Would I still need relays for DRL? Could I just purchase the aforementioned items without the DRL relay and still have my lights work with DRL? I know that the can bus decodes seem to be an easier plug and play item vs the relay that needs to be wired differently. Please let me know what you think? And your right my bulbs get turned off within 4 mins everytime, guessing cause its that bcm.

boywondrr
01-07-14, 01:23 PM
mine are so bright way brighter (in terms of output than i expected)

that little shelf under the light assembly was perfect my ballast came with an installable mounting tab an i bolted it to the end of that I then routed the wires in front of the shelf (between shelf and bumper) did some zip tie cable managing including zip tie to the shelf to ensure there was not tugging or movement and put her back together and BAM!!!! bountiful lighting goodness......better than factory, after seeing these, even if i had factory HID's i would upgrade to these bulbs 5000k is so fantastic

Hi guys thanks to all for this thread I just bought my ATS Luxury edition was a demo and didnt come with HID was looking to add aftermarket HID I will be going to a professional to install it as I am not good with cars... My question is to pissedoffwookie I was wondering where you bought your kit from. Reading this thread it looked like you mentioned do go cheap and that you got a Morimoto kit? I tried searching there site and couldn't find anything specific if you can please let me know exactly what kit youbought would help me out greatly??

Thanks

CADILLACATS2013
01-08-14, 04:01 PM
I just installed the HID kit and followed the instructions but I didnt see the extra step that I did, where you skin all your knuckles. That was a PITA but its done and definitely worth it. Think Cadillac should not have made a halogen headlight for a luxury automobile.

pissedoffwookiee
01-08-14, 04:27 PM
Hey pissedoffwookiee,
Thanks for the reply. Do you think that the ijmtoy kit with the CAN-bus digital decoders would do the trick alone? Would I still need relays for DRL? Could I just purchase the aforementioned items without the DRL relay and still have my lights work with DRL? I know that the can bus decodes seem to be an easier plug and play item vs the relay that needs to be wired differently. Please let me know what you think? And your right my bulbs get turned off within 4 mins everytime, guessing cause its that bcm.

i didn't do relays, and it seems to me relays might be an issue since they bypass the plugs (or at least one plug) that talk to the car and might confuse the computer. mine always fired up like a champ as if the kit were meant for the car.

pissedoffwookiee
01-08-14, 06:04 PM
Hi guys thanks to all for this thread I just bought my ATS Luxury edition was a demo and didnt come with HID was looking to add aftermarket HID I will be going to a professional to install it as I am not good with cars... My question is to pissedoffwookie I was wondering where you bought your kit from. Reading this thread it looked like you mentioned do go cheap and that you got a Morimoto kit? I tried searching there site and couldn't find anything specific if you can please let me know exactly what kit youbought would help me out greatly??

Thanks

i got my morimotos from TRS the retrofit source, super awesome guys, i went with them because these are cadillacs even the base is not cheap, so i did not want to skimp on this, what sold me was how they stand by their product, and they always were there and quickly answered all my questions, and when it was determined i should use bigger capacitors than what was in their canbus cable they hand made me plug in ones for free, and their 5 year waranty really made me feel good about them

heres what i got:

9006: MORIMOTO ELITE HID SYSTEM

-Morimoto 3Five Ballast
-Upgraded to XB35 Bulb 5000K
-Standalone Can-Bus Harness

-Notes-
*i would call to order them and tell them its for a cadillac ATS, when they built my capacitors (again for free, amazing) they told me they would add this info to their database for future orders, if they don't mention this ask them, there is no option for this on the website

*ATS has upside down projectors, and this places the HID electrode facing up this leaves a slight shadow in the beam (fix is in next note)

*ATS is not a true 9006 bulb its actually a 9012 which is soooo close and since 9012 HID bulbs are virtually non existent you will need to trim the bottom tab slightly to fit I matched mine to the OEM bulb took all of 30 seconds with a dremel some HID kits do not need this that is because their tabs are already trimmed to fit both 9006 and 9012 unfortunately the morimoto XB35 is not like that.....but you can kill two birds with one stone here, to fix the top electrode shadow TRS told me to instead trim the other tabs so that instead of instaling electrode up your installing so electrode is rotated 120 degrees (one third turn) to left or right getting the electrode below the cutoff sheild making a perfect beam, should take a minute or two with a dremel to match the new rotated bulb to the tabs of the stock bulb....

I loved the light output of these they were incredible and better than the HIDs in my new premium ATS

JetBlackNinja
01-18-14, 11:43 PM
*ATS is not a true 9006 bulb its actually a 9012 which is soooo close and since 9012 HID bulbs are virtually non existent you will need to trim the bottom tab slightly to fit I matched mine to the OEM bulb took all of 30 seconds with a dremel some HID kits do not need this that is because their tabs are already trimmed to fit both 9006 and 9012 unfortunately the morimoto XB35 is not like that.....but you can kill two birds with one stone here, to fix the top electrode shadow TRS told me to instead trim the other tabs so that instead of instaling electrode up your installing so electrode is rotated 120 degrees (one third turn) to left or right getting the electrode below the cutoff sheild making a perfect beam, should take a minute or two with a dremel to match the new rotated bulb to the tabs of the stock bulb....

On the Morimoto website they do have 9012's.. DO you see any reason to use 9006 as opposed to the OEM 9012 fitment? I am thinking of just ordering the 9012's.
[/B]
I hear you can use antiflicker capacitors, I've never used them and never had an issue, but do as you will, I'm just saying, I've never bothered and never had a flickering issue.

I think it might be a good idea to order the optional canbus bulbs as well just to be safe... What do you think?

pissedoffwookiee
01-20-14, 03:23 AM
*ATS is not a true 9006 bulb its actually a 9012 which is soooo close and since 9012 HID bulbs are virtually non existent you will need to trim the bottom tab slightly to fit I matched mine to the OEM bulb took all of 30 seconds with a dremel some HID kits do not need this that is because their tabs are already trimmed to fit both 9006 and 9012 unfortunately the morimoto XB35 is not like that.....but you can kill two birds with one stone here, to fix the top electrode shadow TRS told me to instead trim the other tabs so that instead of instaling electrode up your installing so electrode is rotated 120 degrees (one third turn) to left or right getting the electrode below the cutoff sheild making a perfect beam, should take a minute or two with a dremel to match the new rotated bulb to the tabs of the stock bulb....

On the Morimoto website they do have 9012's.. DO you see any reason to use 9006 as opposed to the OEM 9012 fitment? I am thinking of just ordering the 9012's.
[/B]
I hear you can use antiflicker capacitors, I've never used them and never had an issue, but do as you will, I'm just saying, I've never bothered and never had a flickering issue.

I think it might be a good idea to order the optional canbus bulbs as well just to be safe... What do you think?

Our cars need the canbus, and BTW capacitors are inside these, it's one reason why they work, yes they have them now not when time got mine last Father's Day and they still don't for their best bulb the xb35 which is what I got..... It's cool they have them now.....but if I were to do it again I would still get the 9006 because we still need to trim to reposition the electrode to prevent the shadow and 9006 has bigger tabs so a better starting point for the trimming

JetBlackNinja
01-24-14, 12:02 AM
Our cars need the canbus, and BTW capacitors are inside these, it's one reason why they work, yes they have them now not when time got mine last Father's Day and they still don't for their best bulb the xb35 which is what I got..... It's cool they have them now.....but if I were to do it again I would still get the 9006 because we still need to trim to reposition the electrode to prevent the shadow and 9006 has bigger tabs so a better starting point for the trimming

Could you please explain in more detail this concern about the shadow that is shown and why the electrode needs to be repositioned? I am having a hard time following. When you say 'trim' do you mean drilling a hole with the dremal?

pissedoffwookiee
01-24-14, 06:10 AM
Could you please explain in more detail this concern about the shadow that is shown and why the electrode needs to be repositioned? I am having a hard time following. When you say 'trim' do you mean drilling a hole with the dremal?

----------



Could you please explain in more detail this concern about the shadow that is shown and why the electrode needs to be repositioned? I am having a hard time following. When you say 'trim' do you mean drilling a hole with the dremal?

HID bulbs get powered and consequently have their positive and negative on either end of the bulb capsule, the capsule is attached to the base at one end of the capsule and so a wire (i've been calling it and have seen it frequently called an electrode) attaches to the other end of the bulb capsule and returns to the base to complete its circuit.

our cars are equipped with projector lenses but are designed for halogens, since both electrical leads on halogen bulb capsules are both on the same end there is no wire (electrode) blocking a side of the bulb, since no side is blocked the bulb produces unhindered light in 360 degrees, as opposed to a HID bulb capsule that has a small portion obscured by the electrode and its insulator.

since the halogen bulb produces light on all sides our halogen projector can be designed without concern for how the bulb is mounted, a HID projectors design has to be concerned with the location of the electrode in order to keep the small amount of light blocked by it from creating a shadow in the light beam.

basically the electrode needs to be on the bottom (facing the ground) in order to be below the cutoff shield which basically blocks the dirty (obscured) side of the bulb. unfortunately, our cars have what some would call an upside down projector, that is basically a lens assembly that when installed has the 9006/9012 bulb with its electrical connector pointing up. unfortunately it would seem that is is sort of unusual and a lot of HID bulbs have the electrode on the same side as the bend of the electrical connector. this places the electrode on top (facing the sky) which positions it above the cutoff shield and makes a shadow that emanates from the bulb and cuts through the beams hotspot (imagine dark lasers coming out of your cars eyes slicing through your light beam)

the fix is to trim the tabs, what i mean by the tabs, i'm referring to the 3 locking tabs that lock the bulb in place when you twist them on...it's a quick 30 second fix with a dremel (cutting wheel)...basically start with your HID and Halogen bulbs one in each hand and line them up front to back and looks across both of them together with the electrical connector facing up just like they would be in stalled in the car....now rotate the HID bulb one third of the way until the tabs line up as close as possible.....and use the Halogen bulb as a guide for how the trim the tabs on the HID bulb.....rotating left of right doesn't really matter, i would recommend choosing the direction that would lead to the least amount of trimming, this will place the electrode under the cutoff shield hiding the shadow. hope that helps...

a side note you may be ok with the shadow because even the shaded portion was brighter than the halogens, or you can shop around for bulbs where the electrode is on the opposite side of the electrical connecter as another option, i don't personally like that option because it will severely limit your bulb choices, and there are some terrible bulbs out there, this is due to the fact that conversion HID kits bulbs are not true HID automotive bulbs, since those are made by sylvania and philips and maybe one or two others and they typically don't make automotive bulbs with halogen bases, so kit bulbs are whats called rebased, they are HID capsules mated to Halogen bases, and the quality of them range wildly, some are manufactured so the bulbs are not plumb, the center of light on the capsule might be installed too far in or out from the base messing with the focal length etc.

txboifrozt
01-24-14, 06:23 AM
Wow brand new cars and still don't have H.I.D on all models? Especially a Luxury brand like Cadillac... That's a shame... My 05 E500 has H.I.D stock it ain't exactly new technology no way I'd purchase a new car without it.

pissedoffwookiee
01-24-14, 07:06 AM
Wow brand new cars and still don't have H.I.D on all models? Especially a Luxury brand like Cadillac... That's a shame... My 05 E500 has H.I.D stock it ain't exactly new technology no way I'd purchase a new car without it.

only on lower trim cars, and mercedes does this too, most makes of cars have one or two lower trim cars with halogen bulbs even your 2005 E-Class the E320 uses halogens.....my ATS premium has OEM HID bulbs too, but i opted to be positive and not flaunt that and help a brother/sister ATS owner with a question asked of me.......seems to me responding "DUDE! what no HID, my Premium has em, you shoulda got what i got" would have been not as nice....and for the record ALL the ATS lights are of incredible quality, the halogens are really bright, this upgrade is far from necesssary basically for the fun of modding and cosmetic than any big performance improvement (brighter yes but the Halogens are great and don't make the car faster .....I would bet a 13/14 Halogen is really close to or better than an '05 E-Class with HID just warmer on the color spectrum

were i feeling not so nice i might say......, Wow your car doesn't have a Touch screen Especially a Luxury brand like Mercedes... That's a shame... My ATS Premium has it stock it ain't exactly new technology no way I'd purchase a new car without it.

Hoosier Daddy
01-24-14, 09:34 AM
Wow brand new cars and still don't have H.I.D on all models? Especially a Luxury brand like Cadillac... That's a shame... My 05 E500 has H.I.D stock it ain't exactly new technology no way I'd purchase a new car without it.
Yep, Mustangs have had HIDs only for several years. That tells me two things: (1) Cadillac believes some of its customers will move up trim levels based substantially on a desire for HIDs and (2) Ford believes Mustang customers won't, so takes the savings from having one system and selling more of it.

I don't have a problem with Cadillac doing this if they are right and it makes them more money but it kind of sucks that a few Cadillac buyers have to buy a bunch of features they don't want in order to get improved safety. But then that is only happening because enough people want HIDs just because of the statement they think they make. Kind of a twisted circle.

txboifrozt
01-24-14, 02:50 PM
Im just stating we are in 2014 now. All vehicles to me (Luxury) should have HID standard. Lighting is very important, and most importantly helps drivers to see better at night especially on dark country roads and highways. We're in a world where people are more accustomed to wanting LED's all around and HID's for headlights. Having to make mods on a brand new car just doesn't seem right especially on a Cadillac

pissedoffwookiee
01-24-14, 04:57 PM
Yep, Mustangs have had HIDs only for several years. That tells me two things: (1) Cadillac believes some of its customers will move up trim levels based substantially on a desire for HIDs and (2) Ford believes Mustang customers won't, so takes the savings from having one system and selling more of it.

I don't have a problem with Cadillac doing this if they are right and it makes them more money but it kind of sucks that a few Cadillac buyers have to buy a bunch of features they don't want in order to get improved safety. But then that is only happening because enough people want HIDs just because of the statement they think they make. Kind of a twisted circle.

this is true, Bob Lutz is quoted as saying something to the affect that there's not much cost difference in manufacturing cheap or expensive cars i believe he called it material costs, this was in regards to reports that VOLTS were money losers based on how much it cost to develop them... he separated development cost from material cost which made a lot of sense since we now know that the development cost also applies to ELR and who knows where else they will use voltec

deedle
02-05-14, 05:26 PM
Anyone here used the OPT7 Kits from ebay? Seem like a good product with many different options as to Canbus ballasts etc. Any thoughts? I've messaged them on two different auctions and getting two totally opposite answers to the common DRL flickering/shut off issues many others have experienced. One says it cant be done unless the DRL's are disabled altogether and the other says simply use a relay or even go with the AC ballasts and order the relays just in case.

Thoughts? I just want to make sure I have everything I need before I start teardown.
link to possible kit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OPT7-AC-35w-Xenon-HID-KIT-9006-6000K-Blue-Beam-Headlight-Conversion-Light-/111027374060?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19d9bf47ec

evanj21
03-04-14, 04:27 PM
I have the same issue guys, I leased a 2014 CTS standard, and it doesn't come with the HID, even though it comes with the LED strips, the HID's werent included in the base CTS, that really pissed me off because the car is 48k msrp, r u kidding me Cadillac?.....anyways I know this is a tutorial for the ATS, does anyone know any HID upgrade kit or bulb for the CTS, I guess I have to go aftermarket now since I called my dealer and she said there is nothing out yet for the CTS and it's not possible to do....any help would be appreciated.

CADILLACATS2013
03-04-14, 04:43 PM
Anyone here used the OPT7 Kits from ebay? Seem like a good product with many different options as to Canbus ballasts etc. Any thoughts? I've messaged them on two different auctions and getting two totally opposite answers to the common DRL flickering/shut off issues many others have experienced. One says it cant be done unless the DRL's are disabled altogether and the other says simply use a relay or even go with the AC ballasts and order the relays just in case.

Thoughts? I just want to make sure I have everything I need before I start teardown.
link to possible kit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OPT7-AC-35w-Xenon-HID-KIT-9006-6000K-Blue-Beam-Headlight-Conversion-Light-/111027374060?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19d9bf47ec

I bought opt7 auction: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OPT7-Premium-AC-CANBUS-HID-KIT-9006-6000K-BRIGHT-BLUE-Xenon-Light-Conversion-/141005375390?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20d493479e&vxp=mtr

Just need to make sure you get a pair of capacitors with them (include message to seller when paying) and its all plug and play from there and I have had no issues since except my own installation mistakes but the product works 100% and looks great!

deedle
03-04-14, 04:57 PM
I bought opt7 auction: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OPT7-Premium-AC-CANBUS-HID-KIT-9006-6000K-BRIGHT-BLUE-Xenon-Light-Conversion-/141005375390?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20d493479e&vxp=mtr

Just need to make sure you get a pair of capacitors with them (include message to seller when paying) and its all plug and play from there and I have had no issues since except my own installation mistakes but the product works 100% and looks great!

thanks for the update! So you went with the Canbus system. I was looking at the SLIM 35W AC system which states the "AC" takes care of any faults and flickering. Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121217536995?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

you have any pics of the color?

evanj21
03-06-14, 07:15 PM
Does anyone know where I can get a 2014 CTS HID kit??

Stevo Supremo
03-06-14, 08:26 PM
you'd just need the bulb size and then get an HID kit with can bus adaptors for that bulbsize and away ya go :) I'd imagine they're the same size bulbs

CADILLACATS2013
03-10-14, 11:27 PM
thanks for the update! So you went with the Canbus system. I was looking at the SLIM 35W AC system which states the "AC" takes care of any faults and flickering. Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121217536995?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

you have any pics of the color?

Sorry for the delay, got some pics. 192610192618

EricEst1978
03-13-14, 11:30 AM
Quick question...

Can the 2014 performance headlight assembly be swapped with the lesser luxury version? Presumable they are the same exact size... I understand this would be considerably more expensive than the DYI method, but this is a brand new vehicle, and a lease so I'd rather not risk messing something up.

I'm sorry if this has been covered earlier, I tried to scan the thread for an answer.

Stevo Supremo
03-13-14, 12:19 PM
Quick question...

Can the 2014 performance headlight assembly be swapped with the lesser luxury version? Presumable they are the same exact size... I understand this would be considerably more expensive than the DYI method, but this is a brand new vehicle, and a lease so I'd rather not risk messing something up.

I'm sorry if this has been covered earlier, I tried to scan the thread for an answer.

man it's really hard to muck this up, and ESPECIALLY being a lease I would't be shelling out that sort of cash for it. Not too mention figuring out the wiring would be a much bigger headache on the performance headlight and you're probably more likely to goof that up than an HID swap

EricEst1978
03-13-14, 01:13 PM
man it's really hard to muck this up, and ESPECIALLY being a lease I would't be shelling out that sort of cash for it. Not too mention figuring out the wiring would be a much bigger headache on the performance headlight and you're probably more likely to goof that up than an HID swap

I didn't figure there would be a significant change in the wiring sans fog lights... I figured the plug on the 2 setups might be a match where just the headlamps were concerned.

i.e. unbolt and unplug current headlight assembly... install and plug new headlight assembly in the same location. Are there fundamental differences in the wiring/connection of the 2 different headlight options? seems from a cost standpoint, the manufacturer would try to maintain as much continuity as possible but I'm aware that theory and logic often differ from reality.

Stevo Supremo
03-13-14, 03:35 PM
You'd be surprised, I haven't looked at the Perf lights but I know for a lot of things companies will toss totally different harnesses in the car, I doubt it's plug and play... ..then again I dont know I just wouldn't go through the hassle when it's so easy to plug in an HID kit

EricEst1978
03-13-14, 03:42 PM
I'll look in to the process a bit more Stevo. I'm just reluctant as I typically find a way to foul up this type of project and given I just got the car a week ago, would hate to make a mistake I'd have to live with for the rest of the lease as I really do love the car. It's one of the nicest I've owned, but the lights drive me a little nuts as the lights I had in my previous vehicle, a GLI Autobahn, were far, far superior... for a car that costs 15-18K less.

mjb091
03-14-14, 01:23 PM
Hi, been lurking this thread for a while, this is my first post.

Recently bought a 2013 ATS Luxury for my wife, got a great deal with most of the goodies but unfortunately no Xenons. Love the car.
I am working with a local auto stereo installer shop, they installed the HID kit with the relay. Went to pick it up yesterday and was a bad hum from the relay. They just installed the anti flicker capacitors and seem to do the trick.

My question, is all works fine with the exception of loss of the exit lighting capability. Remote unlock and lock, no light until I start the car. With Remote start, the lights come on when I enter the car, foot on brake and press start. I suspect it has something to do with ignition power to the ballast but wanted to post here to see if anyone has any input or suggestions.

Thanks, Mark

trimtab81
03-18-14, 03:41 PM
New to the forum but I'm an big DIY kinda guy. HID's will definitely be going in soon. I was just wanting to see what the general consensus was for the best HID kit. I know a lot of people recommend the kit from TRS but I'm not too impressed with there service so far. The tech on chat recommended a MOPAR low beam kit for my car. It may be the right one, but seems a little sketchy. Thanks guys!

mechevar
03-20-14, 02:45 PM
Its buried in this thread, but I ended up using the iJDMTOY kit
http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Slim-Digital-Ballast-Xenon-Headlights-p/hid_conversion_kit.htm

You will need the CAN-bus decoders as well.

JTS2.0
04-01-14, 09:14 AM
For those interested, the torx bit to remove the wheel well is a T15 (definitely the best method). I'm using the Opt7 Canbus Premium AC kit, works 100% so far.

deedle
04-01-14, 10:34 AM
For those interested, the torx bit to remove the wheel well is a T15 (definitely the best method). I'm using the Opt7 Canbus Premium AC kit, works 100% so far.

Finally got around to installing mine last night. Also went with OPT7 kit, but the 35 AC (non canbus) kit. Everything working great so far!! I did install capacitors but no relay at this time. I do however need to adjust the bulb in the socket. Some earlier comments of the small bar on the bulb is causing an odd cutoff at the bottom of the light pattern.

JTS2.0
04-01-14, 06:00 PM
I heard of that issue in another thread, they recommended to trim the tabs accordingly so that it will fit with that bar (the electrode) in the 4 to 5 o'clock position (looking straight on at the car). I didn't really reduce the height of the tabs, just trimmed the corners off a few of them, using my old 9006's as a template.

donavo
04-18-14, 01:42 PM
i just installed my HIDs and my beam pattern is really screwed. i checked to see if the bulbs are properly inside. still screwed up beam pattern. any ideas anyone? ive seen that all of you have pretty perfect beam patterns so far.

pissedoffwookiee
04-18-14, 05:18 PM
i just installed my HIDs and my beam pattern is really screwed. i checked to see if the bulbs are properly inside. still screwed up beam pattern. any ideas anyone? ive seen that all of you have pretty perfect beam patterns so far.

hey bro how is it screwed?, what kit did you use?

donavo
04-18-14, 07:18 PM
hey bro how is it screwed?, what kit did you use?

Used the ddm kit. The beam patten is not even on both sides. There's a hot spot. Cutoff is still okay but there is a shadow on the side and a Hotspot on the front of the passenger side

pissedoffwookiee
04-20-14, 05:32 PM
Can't really say anything about the hotspot the hotspot should be in the middle and the same for both sides as for the shadow what position was the electrode in when you installed the bulbs

transam00
06-02-14, 12:44 AM
Just ordered the opti 7 kit . It looks like you can unscrew the aluminum piece and spin it up side down instead of trimming the tabs . Any thoughts would be nice .

ZPrime
06-02-14, 03:34 AM
Is it possible to retrofit the HIDs from the higher trim cars (the ones that include the LED DRL strips)?

My dad was forced to buy a lower trim package than he wanted (long story, dealer didn't order the car quick enough and missed the cut-off for the 2014s). The dealer is telling him that they regularly retrofit HIDs to lower package cars, and are claiming it's a $600 process. At that price, I'm hoping they are retrofitting the entire assembly from the higher package, which would include the LED strips... does this sound likely, or are they just planning to charge him $600 for a $100-$200 drop-in HID kit like everyone is using here?

I always thought that using HIDs in projectors meant for halogens was bad juju because the beam pattern and cutoff would be wrong.

carpenter
06-10-14, 12:34 AM
Is it possible to retrofit the HIDs from the higher trim cars (the ones that include the LED DRL strips)?

My dad was forced to buy a lower trim package than he wanted (long story, dealer didn't order the car quick enough and missed the cut-off for the 2014s). The dealer is telling him that they regularly retrofit HIDs to lower package cars, and are claiming it's a $600 process. At that price, I'm hoping they are retrofitting the entire assembly from the higher package, which would include the LED strips... does this sound likely, or are they just planning to charge him $600 for a $100-$200 drop-in HID kit like everyone is using here?

I always thought that using HIDs in projectors meant for halogens was bad juju because the beam pattern and cutoff would be wrong.

Have you checked into this any further? I'd be interested to see what they have to say. At $600 though I'd be more inclined to say that they are putting in an HID kit, not swapping for the HID/LED headlights, but not sure I guess.

evanj21
07-02-14, 04:11 PM
Guys I need some help please, I have a 2014 CTS sedan 2.0t base, the base CTS does come with the LED strip, it just does NOT come with the HID head light like the premium model, I know this is an ATS forum but since there is already a thread about HID I'll just post it here...does anyone know the bulb type my car takes? I called like 5 dealers a few didn't know, others said its the D3S, then I went online and talked to some people and they said its the H11?? I have no idea, I just want to make sure before making the purchase, if anyone has experience please let me know, thanks a lot :D

andrewv
07-31-14, 11:31 PM
I have a question for whoever used the ijdmtoy kit, is it working well? And also did you order the canbus adapters and the relay harness? Or did you just get the adapters? I'm in canada so I need the drl's to work

JTS2.0
11-18-14, 02:09 PM
As an update, i'm not really sure I can recommend the Opt7 kit. I'm on my 3rd ballast. Their customer service has been issue-free and fast, but it's a pain having to replace it so many times.

CADILLACATS2013
11-19-14, 02:28 PM
As an update, i'm not really sure I can recommend the Opt7 kit. I'm on my 3rd ballast. Their customer service has been issue-free and fast, but it's a pain having to replace it so many times.

You may want to check your setup as I have opt7 kit for a year and have never had an issue. Might not have the same kit as you though...

duneless
11-20-14, 01:31 AM
The earlier models of OPT 7 were better IMO. Different now with smaller ballast. I had the same issue. Went through 2 ballast and 1 was always brighter. I swapped brands. I think mine is Keningston now and are evenly bright.They look really nice .
You may want to check your setup as I have opt7 kit for a year and have never had an issue. Might not have the same kit as you though...