: Reduced engine power, P0120 P0220 P1516, after FAST 102 install (car won't start now)



dedeaux89
06-16-13, 01:13 PM
Anyone had this problem? I read this thread http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-general/262816-reduced-engine-power-p0120-p0220-p1516-3.html but I don't know if he ever got his fixed. So any input would be greatly appreciated

darkman
06-16-13, 01:20 PM
Anyone had this problem? I read this thread http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-general/262816-reduced-engine-power-p0120-p0220-p1516-3.html but I don't know if he ever got his fixed. So any input would be greatly appreciated

What throttle body and harness are you using? With a freah install I would recheck the wiring that I just fooled with.

dedeaux89
06-16-13, 01:27 PM
nick Williams 102, I got the ls6 to ls2 throttle body conversion wiring kit


What throttle body and harness are you using? With a freah install I would recheck the wiring that I just fooled with.

InfrareV
06-16-13, 01:28 PM
I installed LSA Heads, a Katech LS3 Camshaft, and a Fast 102. The only code I received was a P0300, I wouldn't expect any trouble with only the intake. Recheck all your work.

Edit: I didn't see your post regarding the Nick Williams. I was under the impression you would need a tune to use the Nick Williams. I would go back to the factory throttle body and see if your issues go away. If so make an appointment to get the thing tuned and bring the Nick Williams with.

dedeaux89
06-16-13, 01:36 PM
I installed LSA Heads, a Katech LS3 Camshaft, and a Fast 102. The only code I received was a P0300, I wouldn't expect any trouble with only the intake. Recheck all your work.

Edit: I didn't see your post regarding the Nick Williams. I was under the impression you would need a tune to use the Nick Williams. I would go back to the factory throttle body and see if your issues go away. If so make an appointment to get the thing tuned and bring the Nick Williams with.


I had already done heads,cam,headers, and a lot of other stuff so I figured that just adding the intake wouldn't be a big deal, I knew that it might run a little rough until I can get it retuned. It even started a few times after having installed the intake, it idled high and said engine power reduced, so I figured that it was because it needed to be tuned, I didn't drive the car. I tried to crank it to pull it onto a trailer to have my friend install my clutch and exhaust then it wouldn't start, tried jumping it etc, but now it just decided to not start, it turns over and attempts but dies like 2 seconds after turning the key

DMM
06-16-13, 01:42 PM
The Nick Williams is an LS3 based Throttle body and will not work at all since they open in the opposite direction as LS2/6 units. Get an LS2 based throttle body and the problem will be corrected.

dedeaux89
06-16-13, 01:49 PM
Nick Williams 102mm LS3/L92/LS7/LSXR (Electronic) Throttle Body, Will work on modified LS1/LS2/LS6 engines also. This throttle body accepts the LS2/LS3 stock throttle body harness. Nick Williams is known for making some of the highest quality throttle bodies on the market. This is a great addition to the FAST LSXR 102mm Intake Manifold. This throttle body has a 4.23" OD, so you'll want to use a 4.25" coupler.

**LS1 Vehicles require adapter harness. Harness allows the use of a LS2 throttle body on an LS1 vehicle.
So this is false? or is there an LS2 based nick Williams?

DMM
06-16-13, 02:46 PM
False advertising. Any LS3/7 throttle body will not work since the blade actuates in the opposite direction wreaking havoc on the PCM. The Nick Williams throttle bodies have had lots of problems, look over on the V2 board.

dedeaux89
06-16-13, 02:57 PM
So my only option is the ls2 tb? is there a 102 tb made that will fit our cars?

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lollygagger8 has the nick Williams 102tb on his car though right?

InfrareV
06-16-13, 05:15 PM
The Nick Williams has a better reputation then any of the other 102's, I wouldn't hesitate to keep it but it will need a tune.

darkman
06-16-13, 05:53 PM
I believe Crankedupforit runs a Nick Williams ddbw.

crankedupforit
06-16-13, 07:52 PM
I believe Crankedupforit runs a Nick Williams ddbw.

I've been running the NW for 2 years. Only had an issue with the P1515 & P1516 during wide open throttle on the road course. I had the tune altered to ignore the timing differences between the throttle blade position and the accelerator pedal position. Darkman is right about the harness. Check that as well. BTW, the P1516 and 15 are not unique to NW102. Many of my vette friends at the track have experienced these type of issues with the stock TB as well.

Google search underscores Darkmans advice:

#PIP3089B: SES Light And Reduced Engine Power DTC P0120 P0220 P1516 P2135 - keywords accelerator actuator APP blade body connector connection DTC L33 L59 LH6 LR4 LM7 LS1 LS2 LQ4 LQ9 module position reduce sensor - (Oct 31, 2006)


Subject: SES Light and Reduced Engine Power DTC P0120 P0220 P1516 P2135


Models: 2004-2006 Buick Rainer

2005-2006 Cadillac CTS-V

2003-2006 Cadillac Escalade

2003-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche, Corvette, Express, Monte Carlo, Silverado, SSR, Suburban, Tahoe, Trailblazer

2003-2006 GMC Envoy, Savana, Sierra, Yukon

2003-2006 Hummer H2

2005-2006 Pontiac GTO

Equipped with a 4.8 5.3 6.0 or 7.0 V-8 Engine

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
A vehicle may be brought into the dealer for a reduced power message, and DTCs P0120, P0220, P1516, P2101, or P2135.

The Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) / throttle body type trouble codes, may be caused by a loose wiring crimp at the throttle body connector, or a broken throttle body circuit.

Recommendation/Instructions:
Complete the current SI diagnostics for any symptoms or trouble codes found. If a intermittent T/P or TAC module type code is occurring complete the inspections below.

Inspect all related throttle body terminals for a loose wiring crimp. The loose crimp may be difficult to find, and the poor connection will be between the terminal and the copper strands of the wire. Wiggle test the individual throttle body circuits to see if the concern can be duplicated.
Inspect the related circuits for broken wires inside the insulation. The outer wire insulation may look fine, but the internal copper strands may be partially broken. Breaks in the wires usually occur within 1 to 4 inches of the throttle body connector. Wiggle testing may also induce a trouble code to set.
On C/K trucks complete SI procedures for voltage drop on grounds G103 and G104. Grounds G103 or G104 may be loose or corroded.
If a terminal crimp or a broken wire has been found, repair or replace only the circuits involved. There is a throttle body pigtail connector available through GMSPO, but installing this pigtail connector may cause other intermittent TAC module/TP codes at a later date. If this pigtail must be used, please follow the SI procedures for Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Sleeves. (the proper Kent-Moore crimping tool must be used for this repair)

For shits and giggles I'd check the ground wire on the back of the head as well.

dedeaux89
06-23-13, 09:49 PM
Throttle position is showing 23.1% on the scanner. Does that info help?

dedeaux89
06-24-13, 08:33 PM
Scanner is showing tips at 23.1% with engine off. Checked grounds and wiring still no start

darkman
06-24-13, 08:50 PM
It sure would be nice if you had access to a stone stock LS2 throttle body to see if it would start and run, and if so with what codes. That way you would at least know your wiring harness adaptor, etc. were all in order. It may well be that the tune is so far off that it cannot run.

dedeaux89
06-24-13, 08:58 PM
I'll see if I can find a ls2 tb. I'm afraid to drop it off at my tuner then end up with thousand plus dollar tab

darkman
06-24-13, 09:04 PM
I'll see if I can find a ls2 tb. I'm afraid to drop it off at my tuner then end up with thousand plus dollar tab

Have you discussed the fact that you have a 102 TB with your tuner? Some tuners have no problem with them, while some really don't like to tune them because they are tricky to set up for low speed street operation.

dedeaux89
06-24-13, 09:11 PM
No I hadn't discussed that with him just sent him an email though to give him a heads up. So I'll wait around and see what he says

dedeaux89
08-19-13, 02:54 AM
o-rings on injectors were causing a vaccum leak, got new o-rings from FAST, solved that problem....
Had to use brake cleaner to start the car (bad gas from sitting for 6 months?) I started and drove it for like 2 days wasted a half tank of gas, now the car suddenly won't start. It turns over, fuel pump comes on, seems that my multimeter is getting readings from the coil packs etc, fuel is in the fuel rail, car isn't throwing any codes at the moment, tried to add royal purple fuel treatment and some octane booster in the gas tank, and starting fluid in the throttle body but no bueno. Not sure why it suddenly stopped cranking yesterday any suggestions?

HAMSTAR
08-19-13, 03:57 AM
Sitting for months... battery?

Naf
08-19-13, 07:34 AM
if you are turning the ignition key and you hear nutting you may have a bad starter plug. Its a single wire that plugs into the starter

lollygagger8
08-19-13, 10:55 AM
So my only option is the ls2 tb? is there a 102 tb made that will fit our cars?

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lollygagger8 has the nick Williams 102tb on his car though right?

I've been running the NW 102 on my FAST 102 for exactly a year, with no problems at all. That said, I had the tuner right there on first start up after TB/intake/Heads/Cam... I didn't just slap it on.


I just got the reduced power mode last week, but that was because the spark plug wire on the back drivers side was laying on the header, and it melted. my header wrap had worn out right there, so I rewrapped it, and double dutied it with some cool socks. You might check that. That reduced power mode is terrible...sounded like I was on 2 cylinders. Replaced the wire, and all was good.

dedeaux89
08-21-13, 12:14 AM
I replaced that wire and the starter with the msd starter cause I had read about the pig tail frying under the heat from the exhaust, it looks like my rear o2 sensor might be a little charred but don't know if that would cause a no start. My reduced power etc came from the o-rings on the injectors were the wrong ones for our cars. The battery is a newer yellow top optima battery which from reading recently people don't seem to like them? I thought optima was pretty reputable, and my batt volts read around 12.3ish. Car turns over and sounds strong but it's just not firing up. Seems like there is fuel in the fuel rail though. Could a o2 sensor be my problem?