: exhaust cut out

06-08-13, 09:43 AM
did anyone find a power source for the electric exhaust cutouts in the back of the car, that is switched with ignition? i am using the remote actuator for QTP cutouts because I dont want to run the wires through the interior (lazy), but I only want the control box powered when the ignition is in, to protect the battery. As best as I can tell, all of the wires in the control panel near the battery are always hot, not switched with ignition.

06-08-13, 11:45 AM
Depends on your model year V. It seems there is one wire to use in the back box (different color for different years) but if you have a 2010 like mine, you are out of luck. I think the 2010 is the only one that somehow doesn't have a switched 12v back there. Search around on the forum or other forum and you'll find a thread with pictures.[COLOR="Silver"]


EDIT: found it:

OTHER FORUM SITE/forum/showthread.php/6576-Wiring-Diagram-or-Switched-Power-Source

06-08-13, 01:28 PM
How do electric cutouts do on this car? I about got an SRT8 charger and hear they are incredibly unreliable. I'd love that sound, but I'm not the type to jack up the car and fix things myself. More hassle than their worth if you're not a gearhead?

06-08-13, 01:31 PM
you'd have to do some welding to make sure it's done properly.

06-08-13, 02:02 PM
I used to just leave my manual one open all the time and I only capped it on rare, rare occasions. Got good gains from it though.

06-08-13, 07:40 PM
Well, I got un-lazy and ran the wires up along the driver side door sill to under the dash. I am using the subwoofer amp hot lead as the power, with the manual switch, not the wireless unit, since the switch can be mounted to a full time hot lead i think. the cutouts sound good, not as nice as a ferrarri or my 57 chevy with headers and glasspacks, but real nice in the car.

06-08-13, 08:39 PM
If anyone wants to know how I did this on my wagon, here it is:

used QTP low profile cutouts.
used a drill press and hole saw to contour the cutouts to fit the curve of the stock 2.5" pipe. smoothed it off with a grinding wheel

used a 2" hole saw on a power drill to create the hole in the stock pipe.

welded the cutouts into place, and then coated the welds with POR high temp exhaust paint to minimize rust

i ran the wires through the floor pan into the rear cargo area. i riveted a wire holding clamp for each wire to be sure they dont touch the exhaust pipes, and used duct tape to hold the wires, not sure how long the duct tape will hold there. i used the subwoofer hot lead to power them because I plan to replace the sub with an aftermarket amp and subwoofer soon. i ran the wires to the battery area, then across behind the rear seats next to the Bose amp, then along the driver side door sill up to the dashboard. i had to extend the wires about 2 feet to make it. I mounted the switch under the dash, near the OBD computer connector.

06-09-13, 02:04 AM
Your install is identical to mine except that my motors point inward and I painted with flat black exhaust paint. They totally blend in now and nobody can tell I have them from behind unless they are looking for them. Had them in for well over a year now and still work perfect/no leaks. They seem to be a quality product.

06-09-13, 03:59 AM
I stopped by a local exhaust shop to see if he could install a set of QTP Low Profiles and he said they won't work for newer.
Said my car works off of backpressure and he put a set on a new Mustang and the guy lost 50 hp.

I never heard anyone here mention a problem so I think I will find another shop.

06-09-13, 01:21 PM
Shouldn't these ideally be installed before the resonator for maximum effect? I usually see them mounted on the angled pipes betweeen the cats and resonator, exiting below the front doors.

06-09-13, 06:59 PM
i dont think these will affect power much at all, for better or worse. this is the roomiest spot , and probably the easiest to install them. Unlike 60s muscle cars, the underneath of most new cars is pretty flat and there is not much room to tuck these things in comfortably. On my 1991 Mustang, I installed manual cutouts right under the cockpit, in the middle of the car, just behind the cats, and it sounded phenomenal (5.0 small block fords sound more like traditional muscle cars than the newer chevy engines IMO), but a ton of resonance inside the car cruising. This sounds a little juvenile, but not obnoxious, pretty much just what I wanted to make it more fun to drive. After all, driving is emotional - you need to hear it and feel it to make it fun. I personally would rather have a manual car with 250hp where I can race the engine sometimes or downshift on a turn and really hear and feel the engine, than a quiet car with 500hp. (now I have both with 500hp) and you can close the cutouts when you feel like it - until the motors break!

06-10-13, 12:56 PM
Yeah I did my cutouts for sound only.... I wasn't expecting any performance gains since they are still after the cats, not before them. The dyno showed a 13rwhp gain with them open but that could have been a fluke. I certainly didn't lose power.

06-10-13, 01:50 PM
I'm trying to find a good ground for mine. When they were installed, Midas grounded mine on the tail-light shield which isn't grounded at all. I'm thinking about using the negative battery terminal but I really don't want to do that. Any suggestions that's close to the battery?

06-10-13, 01:57 PM
but that could have been a fluke.

Probably wasn't. I saw good gains on just a built LS1.

06-10-13, 05:53 PM
a ground is easy - should be able to get one anywhere - in the battery compartment on the wagon, there are exposed pieces of frame with some holes in them - a sheet metal bolt/screw with a star washer can do it. also no problem not to ground on the negative battery terminal if that is convenient. pretty much any metal on the car should do it.

06-10-13, 08:37 PM
a ground is easy - should be able to get one anywhere - in the battery compartment on the wagon, there are exposed pieces of frame with some holes in them - a sheet metal bolt/screw with a star washer can do it. also no problem not to ground on the negative battery terminal if that is convenient. pretty much any metal on the car should do it.
I know it should be easy but where it was grounded wasn't good a good spot for whatever reason. I think I can just go direct to the battery.

06-10-13, 09:35 PM
Just had my QTP's with wireless control module installed last week. They welded at the bend (can see directly down to the X section). Ends of motor housings are close but not touching. A support was put in to prevent any movement. See attached. Looking to dyno open and closed in acouple weeks.



06-10-13, 09:54 PM
Not sure if pics came through