: Won't Stay Running...

01-27-05, 11:04 PM
Greetings! How is everyone? Well my 2001 is at 51000 miles and I am running into trouble again. For whatever reason the battery just went dead. I tried to jump it and it starts for about a second and then dies. The weird thing is it will start back up for a sec if I turn the key all the way off and try again. But it will not start if I try without turning the ignition off. Any ideas? It has plenty of gas and the fuel pump fuse it good. It started and ran perfect yesterday!


01-28-05, 10:56 AM
Does anyone know if this is related to the theft system? If so, is the dealer the only ones who can fix it?

01-28-05, 06:50 PM
Check the voltage at the battery.

If you have the ignition in the on position, can you listen to radio and the like? Does the engine run for a second or two.. and then shut off like you turned it off with the key, or stumble off. I bet your getting spark but its air and fuel or management we're dealing with.

Might still be fuel pump even if you checked the fuse. Or fuel injectors.

I suppose it could be related to the theft-deterrent. Only way to check for sure is to get the car scanned for any codes and that may also tell you why its stalling.

There are many levels to approach this situation. Diagnosis's dont cost that much, only issue is getting the car there.

01-28-05, 06:52 PM
It does sound theft system related. Have you tried another key?

01-28-05, 07:31 PM
Thanks for the info The battery is fully charged. I tried disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes in hopes of something being reset. But, no luck. It doesn't stumble before killing. It idles perfect for a few seconds and then just shuts off. I think I will have to get it towed to the dealer. Hopefully it's just the theft system. Unfortunely, I do not have another key. Do think I could just have Cadillac make me another key? I would think that would be cheaper than a tow and diagnostics test.

01-29-05, 08:07 AM
Catera keys are EXPENSIVE! I had a similar problem last week. The key was $87.00 plus programming. The dealer will have to get a 4 digit immobilizer code. They will program your new key transponder with this code. Bad news, they will have to have the car to do it ( wrecker bill ). The car I was working on, the guy had 2 sets of keys, he had been using one set with no problem. One morning he accidentally grabbed the other set not knowing that it was not the set he had been using. The car did not start. He had it towed to an independant shop that replaced his fuel pump, still no start. Had it towed to another indepandant that was honest enough to admit that they were lost. When we got the car, 3 tow bills into the deal, the key he was using was dead, no transponder. Asked him to bring us another key, if he had one. When he got to the dealership, the key he brought started the car. Offered to cut and program another key for him, he declined. I expressed to him that if he loses his one and only key, he is stranded until he can get to a dealership.....still, he only needed the one key. Oh well?

01-29-05, 07:27 PM
Yea I about dropped when the dealer told me about the key price.. Well I am already into a $105 dollar tow and the dealer can't look at it under Monday. Diag is another $115. Ouch. I am not 100% sure it's the key or the theft system. I found out if I hold the gas pedal down it starts eveytime and then just dies. Sounds like a fuel pump. Plus if it was the alarm, wouldn't the security light be flashing?

01-31-05, 10:22 AM
I got off easy ... It was just the key!

Total cost $121!!! :) So with he tow it was like $250 or something.

It needs brake pad sensors ($200) and the tie rod is a little loose. But I will get those done later. How hard are the sensors to do? Is paying the dealer $200 reasonable to have this done?

02-01-05, 10:10 AM
Can someone shed some light on the brake sensor replacment?

02-01-05, 04:31 PM
Well, thats cool that it was only the key. 200 dollars for brake pad sensors?! You should (usually) only need to replace them when you do a brake job. Did they say they were broken? Is your brake wear light on? To me, the sensors are kind of non-essential... all they do is tell you when the pad is worn. Ill usually find that out by feel. The sensors just come out with a flathead screwdriver, and disconnect them. Usually youll find the sensors on ebay. Ive tried searching the online parts stores but havent found it, i know you can get it at the dealer. Come in a pack of two, they shouldnt be that expensive. (20 bucks if i recall ? )

Btw, ours has a broken sensor already. You can see what a good one and the bad one look like:

We found it like this:

02-01-05, 11:40 PM

Yes the pads were just done. And the brake pad indicator light is on. I really could care less about the sensors. Is there a way to disable the light?

02-02-05, 06:42 PM
You can disable the sensors by stripping the wires and twisting the ends together. The sensors are nothing more than a piece of wire in a plastic block. The wire and block are designed to wear through just before (theoretically) the brake pads wear down to the end. Just curious, though. Was the brake job done by a dealer? If so, why didn't they replace the sensors. It's part of the job!:hmm:

02-02-05, 09:41 PM
Thanks, I will do that. No the brake pads were done by a friend.