Okay. I've been doing a lot of thinking lately - and I know I previously expressed no interest in modifying my car for performance... But I've also been feeling that it may be a waste to do nothing at all. Can I have an LT1 and do nothing with it? Maybe... Maybe not...

I'd like to have a BIG thread with everything in one place regarding what can be done to these engines - and some side notes as to what affects they'll have on the car (good and bad). I'd like to discuss the LT4 modification kit that one person mentioned, supercharging options, etcetera.. Okay?

So let's begin.. Where does one start-off?

Okay. I've been doing a lot of thinking lately - and I know I previously expressed no interest in modifying my car for performance... But I've also been feeling that it may be a waste to do nothing at all. Can I have an LT1 and do nothing with it? Maybe... Maybe not...

I'd like to have a BIG thread with everything in one place regarding what can be done to these engines - and some side notes as to what affects they'll have on the car (good and bad). I'd like to discuss the LT4 modification kit that one person mentioned, supercharging options, etcetera.. Okay?

So let's begin.. Where does one start-off?


The thing you got to think about when switching a power plant in a car is what is your budget. Do you have enough to have a crate motor shipped to you already built or do you need to find one used. What horsepower rating do you want for a mininium? Do you care about gas milage? I have been thinking the same for my 92 Eldo. I have found used LT1 engines for around $2G. Most of them are rated around 300 hp. Ill do some more research to see what i can find around the salvage yards and post that.

The thing you got to think about when switching a power plant in a car is what is your budget. Do you have enough to have a crate motor shipped to you already built or do you need to find one used. What horsepower rating do you want for a mininium? Do you care about gas milage? I have been thinking the same for my 92 Eldo. I have found used LT1 engines for around $2G. Most of them are rated around 300 hp. Ill do some more research to see what i can find around the salvage yards and post that.

The '94-'96 Fleetwoods use the LT1 as standard equipment, so no conversion would be needed. He was seeking hop-up advice to get more power from his stock LT1.

The '94-'96 Fleetwoods use the LT1 as standard equipment, so no conversion would be needed. He was seeking hop-up advice to get more power from his stock LT1.

My bad sorry about that. I would look into a pair of heads for the motor. That should help a great deal

I swear I miss out on a ton of posts because of that damn "view new posts" button. I only surf by using that, but if I do happen to look into the individual areas, theres a TON of stuff I miss!!!! :mad:

/rant

Sorry 'bout that! Had to vent!

Sal, the biggest restrictions for the stock motor are the intake and exhaust. You can easily open up about 15-20 horses if you "fix" both those poblems. :) If you delete home plate and first base (look at your engine and you'll see what I mean) and swiss cheese or cut out the stock airbox, it'll help A LOT! A plain old hockey puck will take car of home plate. I used two 45* 3" pvc bends and a 2" piece of pvc and a 3" rubber coupler (Home Depot, less than 10 bucks) to eliminate "1st base" by making a short "S" shaped path. And the airbox, just cut out the bottom side and front and you'll realy wake the car up. The stock mufflers are very restrictive too. I use Summit Turbo mufflers ($14.75 each!) to replace the stockers. The sound great and an exhaust shop should be able to install them for less than 50 bucks. And they don't intrude, noise wise. But you'll get PLENTY of compliments on the sound.

Also, the throttle body coolant bypass helps out too, and it's a free mod. There's a coolant line that runs from the coolant tank to the TB that circulates hot coolant through it to prevent icing in the winter. It doesn't get cold enough to worry about that where I am, nevermind where you are. So all it does is heat up the air charge into the plenum. Cooler air is "more powerful" air so any way you can cool it will help. So you disconnect that line from the TB side and route it to the intake where the outlet from the TB goes. It's a free mod. :) I have pics if you need them.

So if you do those, you're out less than 100 bucks and you'll have a big SOTP improvement. You'll probably be a few tenths quicker at the track too... ;)

Now we're talking! <opens notebook, gets pen>

Okay. This sounds like a great start.. Pictures? Sure, I can use them. I'm not mechanically inclined - but I have tools and intend on trying this out myself..

Delete homeplate.. Okay.. What's a 'hockey puck' that I'll be replacing it with? And why does homeplate restrict intake while the hockey puck doesn't?

Delete first base.. Okay..I guess after I make this new PCV pathway, just connect the two whatevers that are no longer connected. Right?

Airbox.. Cut out the bottom and front - then put it back.. That's it?

Exhaust.. Summit Turbo Mufflers.. Okay...

Throttle Body Coolant Bypass.. I guess I could always reconnect it during the Winter if it gets really cold. But what if I don't?

Thanks.. This all sounds easy enough.. If this can bring me up near 280hp, that would be very nice...

Sal,
The first thing you really need to do is decide what you want to get from the car (a little better throttle response, better 1/4 mile times, etc). There are a lot of modifications available for the LT1 and the rest of your drivetrain in general. A good place to start is the Impala SS home page at: http://w3.one.net/~rcheek/impala/home.html
They list a number of mods that will work on your car, and give a lot of "in-depth" info on them.
I would hesitate to do any "internal" engine mods to the stock LT1 since they are well known to cause bearing failures. If you don't believe me, you can verify this by checking out the last edition of GM High-Tech Performance. There was a small mention of the issue in it.
Just remember that there's very little you can do that doesn't effect something else on the car, so it's very important to plan out your mods properly to make sure that they will work together and no against each other. Modifying cars and/or engines is expensive enough but if you just start throwing mods at it hap-hazardly, it can become a friggin' money-pit and MAY end up not running much better at all.
Plan your mods, spend the money once, get the most bang for the buck.

I tried taking a look at that link but the page must have been taken down.. Is there a replacement yet? I'm not really looking to race the car or anything. I just miss the power of my ETC.. A little better wouldn't hurt...

The mods mentioned in here so far couldn't hurt. Right? It seems they're all pretty much things to quiet things up.. What would YOU do next after these?

Sal, check out this thread (http://www.inegma.net/mb/index.php?act=ST&f=5&t=749&) from my local club for info on the intake. Great info there! There a few links in it you may want to bookmark, like the Impala Technical Archive page. :)

Here's a pic of my pvc pipe intake (sewer pipe) and you can see where the hocket puck would go in the elbow at the TB. I had an aluminum plug my friend made in there (with a chevy bowtie on it), but a plain old, ice hockey puck works fine! I had a Bruins one in there for a while. :)

http://www.inegma.net/mb/uploads/post-5-1060390821.jpg

You may want to join up on the www.impalassforum.com and search for the TB bypass mod over there. Tons of info and a great group of guys! :D

I tried taking a look at that link but the page must have been taken down.. Is there a replacement yet?

http://impala.homeip.net/impala/technical/tech.cgi?intake

I would hesitate to do any "internal" engine mods to the stock LT1 since they are well known to cause bearing failures. If you don't believe me, you can verify this by checking out the last edition of GM High-Tech Performance. There was a small mention of the issue in it.


I can't believe you referenced that article... Of all people who I thought would raise the BS flag on that one, you'd be at the top of my list. That article was a joke. Yeah, some people have noticed bearing failure. Most haven't. People having bearing failure on stock motors too. If you do it right, you've got nothing to worry about. But, that's neither here nor there, as he isn't going that way with his car...

Thank you! I'll be paying a lot of attention to this thread for awhile. And I'll sign up over at those other forums as soon as I can...

Thank you! I'll be paying a lot of attention to this thread for awhile. And I'll sign up over at those other forums as soon as I can...

You don't need to sign up at the other places to view the threads. :) But I suggest you check the one from my local club. It's very recent, and there are some GREAT pictures in it. And some great links too... Very helpful link. :)

I can't believe you referenced that article... Of all people who I thought would raise the BS flag on that one, you'd be at the top of my list. That article was a joke. Yeah, some people have noticed bearing failure. Most haven't. People having bearing failure on stock motors too. If you do it right, you've got nothing to worry about. But, that's neither here nor there, as he isn't going that way with his car...

Bill,
Once again, I find myself scratching my head over one of your posts. More times than I can count, you post comments like this one and it makes me wonder what you are basing the statement on.
For a guy that admittedly has virtually no automotive experience, lets his freinds do the mods to his car while he either watches or aids as a "helper", you tend to have rather strong opinions concerning technical topics. Sal started the thread to gather the largest amount of technical info that he could concerning modding the LT1 and not necessarily just to aid him in his personal quest for possible mods for his car. My comment about the article was to point out that doing the mods described in the article to the LT1 DOES IN FACT pose a very real threat to the very life of the engine as described. I think it's rather wreckless to blatently discount an article like this, especially considering the parties involved. I'm sure Jason Cohen of Motorsport Technologies, Inc. would be more than happy to explain his comments to you.
IMO, anyone giving automotive advice should try to be as cautious as possible with other peoples money, especially people with such limited automotive experience.

Sal!
You are talkin years and years of the Chevy SB here. It is up to your wallet.

If ya got a heavy horse...go for more cubes. The SB smallblock has 40 years of history and success. My shop built over 800. and dynoed most for custom apps.

Since retiring, I have been impressed with the NS in my wifes car. Life goes on...Til!

Bill,
Once again, I find myself scratching my head over one of your posts. More times than I can count, you post comments like this one and it makes me wonder what you are basing the statement on.
For a guy that admittedly has virtually no automotive experience, lets his freinds do the mods to his car while he either watches or aids as a "helper", you tend to have rather strong opinions concerning technical topics. Sal started the thread to gather the largest amount of technical info that he could concerning modding the LT1 and not necessarily just to aid him in his personal quest for possible mods for his car. My comment about the article was to point out that doing the mods described in the article to the LT1 DOES IN FACT pose a very real threat to the very life of the engine as described. I think it's rather wreckless to blatently discount an article like this, especially considering the parties involved. I'm sure Jason Cohen of Motorsport Technologies, Inc. would be more than happy to explain his comments to you.
IMO, anyone giving automotive advice should try to be as cautious as possible with other peoples money, especially people with such limited automotive experience.

Kevin, I do not claim to have " virtually no automotive experience" as you say. As a matter of fact, I believe I know quite a bit about the automotive world. I'm just not as comfortable actually doing some of the big jobs by myself. So I joke about it... That's no reason to go after me here. It just makes you look like more of an a$$hole. This is supposed to be a friendly discussion board, and just because I don't agree with you, you once again lash out at me. And you don't just do it to me. It's getting tiresome and I'm getting sick of it again. You know, it is possible to disagree with someone without insulting them. You really piss me off sometimes. Ever hear the phrase "if you don't have anything nice to say, don't say anything at all"??

I read that article, and I think it's total BS, only published to make people worry unneccessarily. Yeah, there is always the risk of failure whenever you do a mod, especially a big one like heads and cam, but like I said, if you do it right, and pay attention, you most likely will be fine. I have seen both sides of the discussion, and I know people who have done this. There have been failures, but they had come down to assembly issues or poor parts choice. The big reason some LT1's tend to spin bearing after a heads and cam package is because some people go with such a radical set up, and rev the motor to the moon because their new heads and cam will do that, that they go well outside the boundaries of what is safe with the stock shortblock, and stock oiling system. You just have to know the limitations and plan accordingly. But like I said, this is not what Sal is planning to do, so it doesn't really matter.

Sorry Bill but again you are both missing the point AND this last comment ALSO points to your lack of experience.
The first point was that Sal DID NOT state that this thread was to be limited to what mods he is currently considering. If you read his comments since he got his car, he's gone from stating he was NOT going to mod it, to his current statements that seem to be quite the opposite. So I'm not sure even SAL knows what Sal wants right now, so how do you?
The second point was that you HAVE made mention in prior threads that you have little or no automotive mechanical experience/technical know-how. I'm just repeating what YOU have said. If now you say that you DO have experience, sorry I'm not a mind-reader.
The third point was that I was trying to bring a REAL issue to light for anyone that reads this thread, and utilized an article from a respected publication, written by a professional in the automotive field. I believe it to be irresponsible and wreckless to make a blanket statement as you did that the article was BS.
And finally, your statements: "I read that article, and I think it's total BS, only published to make people worry unneccessarily. Yeah, there is always the risk of failure whenever you do a mod, especially a big one like heads and cam, but like I said, if you do it right, and pay attention, you most likely will be fine."
and
"The big reason some LT1's tend to spin bearing after a heads and cam package is because some people go with such a radical set up, and rev the motor to the moon because their new heads and cam will do that, that they go well outside the boundaries of what is safe with the stock shortblock, and stock oiling system."
are totally ridiculous. Please tell me technically what the hell doing a cam and head swap has to do with your engine's safe RPM limit? "....because their new heads and cam will do that......" HUH?
Do you even know what mis-aligned main bearing bores or thermal fatigue are? Those statements just served to prove my point here.

Kevin, I'm not going to get into another childish pissing match with you. In a nutshell, all I can see in that artice is "If you do heads and cam without us, you'll grenade your motor, but WE know how to do it right, so pay the extra money and let us do the work." That's all magazine articles are anyways. The vendor paid a great deal to get their name in there. Yeah, magazine articles are gospel... :rolleyes: That's the way I see it. And, Yes, I know what misaligned main bearing bores and thermal fatigue are. I'm not going to go into full definition mode to redeem myself in your eyes, because to me, it's not worth the effort. If you think I'm an idiot, or if you think I'm full of sh!t, then fine. Believe what you want. This is the internet and I've got nothing to prove. Believe me or don't. I don't need to get worked up over this with you, it ain't worth it. I come to these boards for fun. But it seems when I come to this one all I do is argue with you.

So much for putting together a LT1 mod list... :rolleyes:

Gentlemen - We are grateful for the knowledge and experience both of you bring to the table. You have both stated your opinions in this matter and the reasoning behind them. There is clearly some disagreement. Please let's refrain from making this an unpleasant discussion. You are both entitled to think whatever you want about each other - *but* it is counterproductive to attempt to undermine each other publicly with barbs. I'd like to have a BIG thread with everything in one place regarding what can be done to these engines - and some side notes as to what affects they'll have on the car (good and bad).The information from both of you is appropriate to the discussion Sal started - as long as it's done without rancor.

Gentlemen - We are grateful for the knowledge and experience both of you bring to the table. You have both stated your opinions in this matter and the reasoning behind them. There is clearly some disagreement. Please let's refrain from making this an unpleasant discussion. You are both entitled to think whatever you want about each other - *but* it is counterproductive to attempt to undermine each other publicly with barbs. The information from both of you is appropriate to the discussion Sal started - as long as it's done without rancor.


That's what i was trying to get at... But I didn't put it across as well. :)

I'd really like to post my ideas and opinions here. But I might offend the LT1 gods and bring down their wrath. :halo:

I think I will go make a power steering fluid sacrifice offering and pray that the LT1 gods don't totally destroy the topic of this thread. :worship:

Here's a couple of links Sal:
http://www.impalassforum.com/tech.htm

http://www.theherd.com/tech_articles.html

I'd really like to post my ideas and opinions here. But I might offend the LT1 gods and bring down their wrath. :halo:

I think I will go make a power steering fluid sacrifice offering and pray that the LT1 gods don't totally destroy the topic of this thread. :worship:An LT1 Thread movie! (http://www.fanta.dk/showmovie.asp?mid=665B5681-A657-4A55-ACE7-2618BAA1B1CE)

http://www.dbznetwork.net/shoutbox/smilies/animcrying.gif

Ah yes, being the leader of the BULLS@#T POLICE is never a POPULAR job. :rolleyes:

Those movies are great! I've seen so many of them... And even though they're the same scenes over and over, they're still funny! :D

So Sal, what are your first mods gonna be???

Sorry for OffTopic , but is the intake same in Cadillacs LT1 and ´93 Caprice Police LT1?

I still get a kick out of those movies.. My first mods will be the simple ones you mentioned, TMT. I really don't want to sacrifice the longevity of the engine - but it just feels like the car is really held-back by something - besides weight. I guess it's intake and exhaust... All I want is a little more 'get up and go'... When I get to that point, I guess I'll see where I stand..

What's the deal with that round cone K&N filter I'm seeing.. Can I just add that in instead of doing the swiss-cheese mod?

The B-body LT1 is the same as the D-body LT1.

I have the K&N filter (and the rest of the K&N inlet kit) and love it. Yes, it's more expensive than the Home Depot stuff but it is also a less restrictive inlet system than the Home Depot stuff too (and I think it looks much better too). I would also suggest the 1LE elbow which eliminates the need for a hockey puck or similar object to plug the hole left after the "Home Plate" removal. It is slightly less restrictive than the stopck one.

The B-body LT1 is the same as the D-body LT1.
B-bodys are Impalas, Caprices and D-body is Cadillac - am i right?

B-bodys are Impalas, Caprices and D-body is Cadillac - am i right?

Yes. B-bodies also include the Buick Roadmasters and the short lived Oldsmobile version, which I forget the name of.

Yes. B-bodies also include the Buick Roadmasters and the short lived Oldsmobile version, which I forget the name of.
Thanks :cheers:
One guy just offered me ´94 police version Caprice, powered with LT1 and i must say - nice car it is!

Yes. B-bodies also include the Buick Roadmasters and the short lived Oldsmobile version, which I forget the name of.

:confused: Oldsmobile B-body? You talking about the old 98?

:confused: Oldsmobile B-body? You talking about the old 98?
It must be Olds Custom Cruiser then....

The Custom Cruiser died in '92 and did not have an LT1. It had the 7-code TBI 350 that was in the '93 and older Fleetwood.

:confused: Oldsmobile B-body? You talking about the old 98?

It must be the Custom Cruiser because it was very short lived and only available as a wagon, from what I recall.

It must be the Custom Cruiser because it was very short lived and only available as a wagon, from what I recall.The Vista Cruiser?http://71vista.tripod.com//sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/mikes.jpg

I hear the Custom Cruiser was the equivelant. As for that 1LE elbow - is it easily available?

As for that 1LE elbow - is it easily available?

Yup. it's about 50 bucks at your local dealer. It's for the Camaro Z28 1LE package. I have it on my car now. But a hockey puck is a good budget alternative... :)

I'll answer the K&N question too. I got an S&B 7" long filter. It's a 3" ID if I remember corretly. I chose the S&B because it has a filter element in the end of it too, instead of just a closed cap. But it's the same style as a K&N. The cold air box I have is a Mark Michna/Team SS box, but he no longer makes it. It's easy enough to make out of sheetmetal though. I can take some pics and measurements if you want... (unless Kevin can convince you I don't know how to use a tape measure ;) :p )

(unless Kevin can convince you I don't know how to use a tape measure ;) :p )

Remember to take it out of the package first.:histeric:

Sal,

I know I'm a little late on this one but I have a couple points I would like to throw in.

As others have stated, the intake and exhaust are the first orders of business. The exhaust alone will amaze you. If you really want to open it up, get an exhaust system designed for the 94-96 Impala SS. It will be 6" short in the middle but this will allow you to add an H-pipe crossover to the mix.

In your quest, basically any performance upgrade designed for the Impala will fit on the Fleetwood. The key differences in the drivetrains of these two cars is the 6" wheelbase difference (this is why there is a "B" and "D" body designation) and the 4 channel ABS/TC system.

The next BIG performance upgrade you want to make is the rear end gear. By default, standard Fleets get the 2.56 and Broughams get the 2.93 gear ratio. The trailer package bumps you to 3.42. Check your SPID sticker in the trunk to be sure.

GM8 = 2.56
GW9 or GU3 = 2.93
GU6 = 3.42
G80 = Limited Slip

My point here is that no performance upgrade that you do to the engine will show its true potential until you solve the rear end problem. I say problem because this is a HEAVY car with lots of torque. My sources at GM have explained that low rear end gear combined with high toque output and the extreme weight of the car have lead to premature transmission failures. Remember that the 4L60E is only rated to handle 350 ft/lbs or torque. The stock LT1 is rated at 335 ft/lbs so you are close to the limit right out of the box. The rear end change will free the car up and let it wind easier. I prefer the 3.42 gears but some have gone up to the 3.73's with success as well.

Finally, you will want to get the PCM re-programmed. Again, the mods you do will not see their full potential until this is fixed. The computer used on these cars is a learning computer. Many mods that you do will be un-done by the computer in its attempt to satisfy the stock program loaded at the factory.

If you wish to do this programming yourself, you will need a computer, communication cable, and some software. The most popular and easy to use is LT1-Edit. This can be found at http://carputing.tripod.com/9495LT1Edit.htm

If you are not ready to tackle this yourself, I would recommend sending your PCM out to be programmed . The most popular in this arena is Bryan Herter at http://www.pcmforless.com

Don't waste your time shopping for chips and hand held programmers for the Caddy. There is a CCM (body) computer on Fleetwoods that is tied in with the main computer that the Impalas and Camaros don't have. This "bonus" has kept the programming options slim. Luckily the Corvette uses this CCM computer also so it is not impossible.

With PCM programming, you will be able to adjust for airflow mods, timing and octane adjustments, as well as tire size, rear end gears, etc. The best thing is that you will be able to dump that pesky 108mph speed limiter. Trust me, you will gain a whole new respect for the Fleetwood when you get it on the open road at 140mph :D
http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/74/74841/folders/101743/689898gateway1.JPG

Bill is absolutely correct. The gearing change along with the mods to the intake and exhaust really make a BIG difference in both the performance and longevity of the drivetrain. Besides changing the gearing, you should also make sure to install some sort of posi-traction differential. Limited-slip is ok to a point but once you start increasing the engine output and start hammering on the car, limited-slip rears are NOT the ticket. They have clutch packs that you WILL tear up. I would suggest an actual "locking" differential for it's long-term durability. As Bill pointed out, you WILL need to reprogram the PCM after gearing changes. This is not only to correct for speedometer error but also for transmission shift points. If you are into setting up the car just the way YOU want, I'd advise the LT1-Edit application. I use it on my car and it works great. If you'd rather have someone else set it up, Bryan Herter (PCMforless .com) and Ed Wright (Fastchip.com) are probably the two most experienced guy out there. Bill is also correct when he mentioned the PCMs ability to basically compensate for a mod that you do, thereby rendering your mod worthless. And this happens gradually, so immediately, you feel your mod actually worked but over a priod of time, the performance increase goes away. In order to make all modifications actually permanent, you need to change the PCM programming so it doesn't try to compensate the mod away.
Bottom line: if you don't plan your mods properly, you may not actually net the performance increases that you expect.

Okay. Tell me if I've got the right idea here...

First, I'll remove Homeplate and First Base and replace that whole setup with the 1LE Elbow from a Z28 at about $50.00 and piping which connects to the air filter.. All is covered there?

Then, I'll remove the entire airbox and replace it with a K&N Cone Filter. Is there a specific model number? And again, is all covered at that point? Or do I need to cutout the stock airbox a certain way?

Next, I re-route the Throttle Body Bypass..

Next, I replace the Cat Back Exhaust with one designed to replace the Cat Back Exhaust on a 94-96 Impala SS - and use an H-Pipe (what advantage does this give me) to fill a 6 inch gap...

Next is gears.. Upgrade to 3:42.. Where can I get these? Cadillac? Or will any performance shop do?

What happens with the transmission? Being that it's only designed to handle 350ft lbs of torque, am I pretty much killing it at this point? Is there a replacement? Performance rebuild that I need? Or will the new larger gears make this a non-issue?

Before I sold my Vette, I went to a pretty good local Corvette repair shop to get things fixed.. Can I have the PCM reprogrammed there? They mostly deal with LT1's... Is getting the computer reprogramming something they'll charge me a lot for?

And.. Finally.. At what point in my mod-list would I need to get this reprogramming done? I mean - if I'm going to have to do it more than once - and it's expensive - then maybe I'll just wait and do everything at once..

Oh, also.. What do you guys generally think about the K&N Air Filter? Does it let more dirt into the engine?

Thanks for all the help.. This is getting really interesting...

Off this latest topic - what do you guys generally think about Super-Charging the LT1?

Sal

Quick - before it's too late...ban Katshot, toomanytoyz, FleetwoodSS, ssstealth, and anyone else who wants you to molest your Caddy.

You guys are creating a monster... :D

Haha. Well, I'm extremely limited by budget and technical knowledge.. I'll have to slowly save to get these things done.. I can do some of the stuff myself - and probably will.. But the more important stuff will probably take me until Spring to afford...

That whole "I'm just going to keep it stock" mentality lasted all of a day and a half, huh? :D lol

Yeah, you sound like you understand everything. If you're going to use a K&N cone filter, then you'd also get rid of your stock airbox. And if you do that, you can just us a straight piece of 3" PVC.

Programming is required for the gear change. Everything else on your list can be done without it. I would recommend Tunercat (www.tunercat.com). It only costs like 20 bucks for the definition file that you need to program for your car, the software is free. It allows you to do all the tuning you'd need to do. That and a 80 dollar cable and a laptop and you're ready to go. The LT1 Edit software Kevin mentioned is great stuff, but it is out of control, pricewise.

The flowmaster cat back comes with an H-pipe. It just allows the exhaust pulses to balance out and it tends to tame the exhaust sound. Supposedly it is supposed to enhamnce the low end torque, but I didn't notice anything. If I were you though, I'd just save the money (500 bucks *or so* installed for a cat back) and go with the summit turbos for now. They're a great, cheap budget mod. And they sound great... You've seen at least one video of my car and heard them...

I went with the 3.73's and wasn't too impressed. I noticed a bit of midrange acceleration improvement, but mileage took a big hit and the highway RPM's were a bit high (IIRC, 2900ish @ 75mph). I'd recommend the 3.42's and an Eaton posi unit. You can get the parts for about 500-600 smackaroos and installation will run you between 200-500, depending upon your "connections." I know of a guy in NY (LI, I think) that will take care of you on the install for about 200 bucks, when you get to that point.

I can't wait to see it in E-town! :D

Well, I love this car and I'm going to have it for a long, long time.. So, I might as well have it at its best.. I thought I was getting out of the racing-game with this big car, but now I've just got other big cars wanting to play.. I guess it never ends. But I enjoy it...

Okay. Tell me if I've got the right idea here...

First, I'll remove Homeplate and First Base and replace that whole setup with the 1LE Elbow from a Z28 at about $50.00 and piping which connects to the air filter.. All is covered there?
The 1LE elbow only replaces the stock one and takes care of the hole left by the "home plate" removal. Once you remove the "1st Base" you'll need piping to connect the inlet componentry. This why I used the K&N Fuel Injection Performance Improver Kit (using a '95 Impala SS as the application).

Then, I'll remove the entire airbox and replace it with a K&N Cone Filter. Is there a specific model number? And again, is all covered at that point? Or do I need to cutout the stock airbox a certain way?
If you intend to utilize any kind of aftermarket "cone" filter, you'll need to fabricate or buy an air filter isolation chamber. It basically isolates the filter from the hot under-hood temps, and forces the filter to draw cool outside air.

Next, I re-route the Throttle Body Bypass..
It is a popular mod although I've never seen any ACTUAL data supporting it.

Next, I replace the Cat Back Exhaust with one designed to replace the Cat Back Exhaust on a 94-96 Impala SS - and use an H-Pipe (what advantage does this give me) to fill a 6 inch gap...
Personally, I went with a "custom" exhaust but the aftermarket ones are probably just as good.

Next is gears.. Upgrade to 3:42.. Where can I get these? Cadillac? Or will any performance shop do?
Any speed shop can source the parts for you. I use a guy that builds rears, steering gears, column etc. out of a shop in a junkyard.

What happens with the transmission? Being that it's only designed to handle 350ft lbs of torque, am I pretty much killing it at this point? Is there a replacement? Performance rebuild that I need? Or will the new larger gears make this a non-issue?
There ARE build-ups available but to be honest, it's usually best to run it 'til it blows and then get a unit. You COULD get a unit built from a junkyard unit and keep it ready for when yours goes but that's money you don't NEED to spend.

Before I sold my Vette, I went to a pretty good local Corvette repair shop to get things fixed.. Can I have the PCM reprogrammed there? They mostly deal with LT1's... Is getting the computer reprogramming something they'll charge me a lot for?
He SHOULD be able to do it. Usually it's not too expensive but getting it done AFTER gearing or major assembly changes is the usual way it's done. You can count on getting it done several times before you're totally happy though. I don't know anyone that only got theirs done once and was content with it.

And.. Finally.. At what point in my mod-list would I need to get this reprogramming done? I mean - if I'm going to have to do it more than once - and it's expensive - then maybe I'll just wait and do everything at once..

Oh, also.. What do you guys generally think about the K&N Air Filter? Does it let more dirt into the engine?
I like the K&N unit but many people think it's too expensive. My usual opinion is that you get what you pay for. If you're happy with Home Depot piping, go for it. The K&N unit is guaranteed to be superior in both performance and looks but I'm sure the difference is not huge either way.

Thanks for all the help.. This is getting really interesting...

Off this latest topic - what do you guys generally think about Super-Charging the LT1?
If I had the money, I'd have a blower on my car so fast it would make your head spin.
Hope this helps you out.

Thanks.. Very helpful.. :) It sounds like I should learn to do my own programming though...

The only reason I would suggest doing your own programming is so you can setup the car to your taste. The OEM programming is actually fairly good in many ways. The biggest performance gains will be found in the Transmission tables. You can pick up a little in the timing tables if you are careful, and you can definately get a little from the fuel control tables if you utilize a dyno and wide-band O2 sensors. Doing SOTP (seat of the pants) tuning is tough with anything beyond the shift tables.
Unfortunately, doing the programming yourself opens up greater possibilities for screwing things up too, and even potentially damaging the engine or trans.

Quick question in regards to programming.. If I don't do this after the intake and exhaust mods (the cheap ones), will even these be worthless after a short period of time - due to the automatic learning/re-adjusting?

There is no programming needed for the easy mods like exhaust, cold air intake, etc. The PCM will handle those mods with no problem. Once you know how the system works you'll see what I mean. That's another great thing about using LT1-Edit, you can use the mailing list which is populated by some damn knowledgable guys. Pick their brains, mine, whoever! Once you have the programming capability, you'll need to understand how the various systems work so you understand what effect the changes you make will have on the car's performance, fuel economy, emissions, etc.
If you don't want to get into it that far, get someone else to do the programming.
The one thing you'll learn (if you decide to really get into the programming) is that many popular mods are REALLY worthless and there are a lot of things you CAN do that can make BIG differences. You'll find that the guys that just buy parts based on other peoples suggestions, but don't REALLY understand the engines or the management systems, are really wasting a lot of money! ;)
There's a lot more idiots out there that THINK they know what they're doing than you might think.
I've only found a few guys that are TRUELY worth listening to. The rest TALK a good game but really have NO CLUE! For instance, there was this one guy over at the Impala SS forum that used to get a lot of grief from some guys but I thought the guy was just this side of BRILLIANT! He had an Impala SS in the 13's with only "bolt-ons" and no slicks. As he always said (and I agree) how you "setup" the car is more important than ANYTHING! You'd be surprised how many cars I've beat at the track just because of setup. Cars that SHOULD have waxed my ass if you were just comparing mods and specs. That's why I always say "any car, on any day". Preparation is EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It sounds interesting enough that I want to learn about it - but I don't want to break anything while I'm at it...

Can someone give me a general idea of my Fleetwood Brougham before and after these mods? I'm interested in doing the intake stuff mentioned, the cat-back exhaust (or just the mufflers - not sure yet) and the 3:42s - and of course, the programming...

I'm interested in ball-park horsepower changes, torque changes and 0-60,1/4 mile times...

Bueller? ...Bueller?

It really depends Sal. Some guys seem to get much better results than others. I assume it's do to WHO actually is doing the work, and WHAT specific parts are used. My car seemed to respond very well to the intake and exhaust mods. Hell, I haven't done much else besides those and the gears. My 14.5 is totally just the product of INTAKE, EXHAUST, GEARS, and PROGRAMMING. Hell, I haven't even done a tune-up to the car since I've owned it. :rolleyes:

It really depends Sal. Some guys seem to get much better results than others. I assume it's do to WHO actually is doing the work, and WHAT specific parts are used. My car seemed to respond very well to the intake and exhaust mods. Hell, I haven't done much else besides those and the gears. My 14.5 is totally just the product of INTAKE, EXHAUST, GEARS, and PROGRAMMING. Hell, I haven't even done a tune-up to the car since I've owned it. :rolleyes:

Kevin, does your car still have the stock converter, too? You must have a Wednesday car. With intake, exhaust and gears, my car would only run a 15.2! :mad: mines probably a Friday afternoon car... Hell, I had to do a cam and rollers in addition to what you did to run my 14.4!

All I did was a "cat-back" custom exhaust with 2.5" pipes and 3-chamber FlowMasters. Oh yeah, don't forget the Auto Zone chrome tips too! They're good for 20 extra HP I hear. ;)
It's like I said, some guys get a lot better increases form the same "TYPE" of mods. The reason I highlight that is because there are SO MANY different CAI setups, air filters, etc. available, and just doing an exhaust system doesn't mean it's same thing. All components are NOT created equal, and then you have the installation issue too. I've seen some actual mechanics do tune-ups and actual net a DECREASE in MPG and performance. All mechanics are NOT created equal either. ;)
It's just like I've always said, it's all in the "setup".

@ Katshot & toomanytoyz:
I've tried to read the PCM or simply view the engine data. But:
The software says: No PCM found! The connection to the ALDL interface works (ALDL-Test) but the connection between the ALDL interface and the PCM doesn't work.

I know the CCM in the Fleetwood interferes with programming the PCM. What exactly do I have to do to read/write the PCM and get connected.

Pull the CCM fuse and you're in. :thumbsup:

this is a bit late,but i am sitting here looking at the feb 04 issue of carcraft & on pg 82 they do some basic mods to a 9c1 showing dyno tests at each step.basic stuff that showed 18 hp & 14lbft. at the rear wheels.i'll be starting with these things as soon as it warms up a bit.

this is a bit late,but i am sitting here looking at the feb 04 issue of carcraft & on pg 82 they do some basic mods to a 9c1 showing dyno tests at each step.basic stuff that showed 18 hp & 14lbft. at the rear wheels.i'll be starting with these things as soon as it warms up a bit.
Your post would only be late if you posted after the magazine was no longer for sale! :D

Heading to Walmart now!!

I'd like to hear more about this.. Sounds very interesting...

I'd like to hear more about this.. Sounds very interesting...
for the most part it consisted of a 160 fan switch & t-stat,& a k&n cold air kit.they even left on home base.i'd say a pretty good return for minimal money & effort.

Headers. Headers. Headers.

The B-Body headers will work on D-bodies all day long. I'd look there quickly too. Export pipes are often recommended (Cat Delete) but dyno'ing has show a small torque loss for a few hp. Really not worth the money.

Hmm, what else.. I'll think on it.. and get back to you. :)

I swear I miss out on a ton of posts because of that damn "view new posts" button. I only surf by using that, but if I do happen to look into the individual areas, theres a TON of stuff I miss!!!! :mad:

/rant

Sorry 'bout that! Had to vent!

Sal, the biggest restrictions for the stock motor are the intake and exhaust. You can easily open up about 15-20 horses if you "fix" both those poblems. :) If you delete home plate and first base (look at your engine and you'll see what I mean) and swiss cheese or cut out the stock airbox, it'll help A LOT! A plain old hockey puck will take car of home plate. I used two 45* 3" pvc bends and a 2" piece of pvc and a 3" rubber coupler (Home Depot, less than 10 bucks) to eliminate "1st base" by making a short "S" shaped path. And the airbox, just cut out the bottom side and front and you'll realy wake the car up. The stock mufflers are very restrictive too. I use Summit Turbo mufflers ($14.75 each!) to replace the stockers. The sound great and an exhaust shop should be able to install them for less than 50 bucks. And they don't intrude, noise wise. But you'll get PLENTY of compliments on the sound.

Also, the throttle body coolant bypass helps out too, and it's a free mod. There's a coolant line that runs from the coolant tank to the TB that circulates hot coolant through it to prevent icing in the winter. It doesn't get cold enough to worry about that where I am, nevermind where you are. So all it does is heat up the air charge into the plenum. Cooler air is "more powerful" air so any way you can cool it will help. So you disconnect that line from the TB side and route it to the intake where the outlet from the TB goes. It's a free mod. :) I have pics if you need them.

So if you do those, you're out less than 100 bucks and you'll have a big SOTP improvement. You'll probably be a few tenths quicker at the track too... ;)
Toomanytoyz:
Great info. When you do the TB bypass what do you use to plug/cap the inlet and outlet openings on the TB after you remove the hoses hooked up to them in the first place? Also, do you know if the Summit Turbo mufflers are still available? I went to their website and didn't see where they were offering/listing them! Thanks!

Pull the CCM fuse and you're in. :thumbsup:

I'm glad this came up. I should be getting my cable from AKM CABLES (http://www.akmcables.com) today. My next mod is the exhaust. I really would love to get headers but there are so few choices and they are all expensive...

hey guys according to the cover of the new carcraft "GM's lt1:bolt on 20hp!" i haven't picked it up yet,it's supposed to be on sale now so i'll probably go get one today.i'll let you know once i've read it.

they lied,different cover, no article:annoyed: oh well.