: Hood ajar warning



maiahsdad
06-01-13, 12:13 PM
There's got to be some kind of reset for this alarm! My hood is closed, but this thing will chime constantly going down the highway. And I have a 15 hour trip in front of me next week. Is there a way that I can cure this through the instrument panel?

Here's the link to it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RxqLKTuUw74

carter's_sts
06-01-13, 12:17 PM
Hood switch is probably bad. You could probably bypass it......open or short (whichever is the closed hood state).

maiahsdad
06-01-13, 12:19 PM
Hood switch is probably bad. You could probably bypass it......open or short (whichever is the closed hood state).

Is that something done at the latch itself?

PontiacV8
06-01-13, 12:27 PM
...this is also reponsible for your "Alarm" (in your other thread)
GM-Part: #25778967 LATCH,HOOD PRIM & SECD (incl. HOOD AJAR SWITCH) (old #15785120 was superceded)
GM-Retail Price: 145.48 $

...there was a TSB/ASI resolution: http://www.cadillacfaq.com/stsfaq/tsb/data/05-08-45-001a.pdf

...a (possible) "temporary" resolution here:
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-sts-forum-2005-through-2012/190600-hood-ajar-service-theft-system.html

Latch, HOOD
Part-#14:
http://www.genmotorinfo.com/images/08/0610306D08-034.png


http://www.justanswer.com/cadillac/4s1sh-cadillac-sts-2005-sts-hood-ajar-theft-deterent-warning.html

carter's_sts
06-01-13, 12:58 PM
Thanks Pontiac. Funny, I forgot I posted that stuff back then.

maiahsdad
06-01-13, 01:00 PM
...this is also reponsible for your "Alarm" (in your other thread)
GM-Part: #25778967 LATCH,HOOD PRIM & SECD (incl. HOOD AJAR SWITCH) (old #15785120 was superceded)
GM-Retail Price: 145.48 $

...there was a TSB/ASI resolution: http://www.cadillacfaq.com/stsfaq/tsb/data/05-08-45-001a.pdf

...a (possible) "temporary" resolution here:
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-sts-forum-2005-through-2012/190600-hood-ajar-service-theft-system.html

Latch, HOOD
Part-#14:


So it sounds like the hood latch is causing the alarm to go off as well. I guess I'm on my way to the dealer. I didn't see a temporary fix in the other posts.

carter's_sts
06-01-13, 01:16 PM
The temporary fix was someone sprayed WD-40 in the latch and it worked for a little while.

But you could just unplug the switch. If the DIC says hood open then, then put a jumper wire across the plug. The TSB talks about a short from water being the cause, but it's probably more likely to be corrosion is causing an open circuit, so I suspect you would have to jumper it to get it to act closed.

Or if you can get the new latch before your trip, that's the best.

maiahsdad
06-01-13, 03:11 PM
Is there something diagramming how I need to unplug the switch? I have no idea where the switch is.

carter's_sts
06-01-13, 04:14 PM
Pretty sure you have to unbolt the latch and lift it out to get to the plug.

BIGGUYRJ
06-05-13, 09:49 PM
Yeah, I got this too! Just bought the car recently and it started this like a week later. Mitigated it for a while by spraying a bunch of electronic contact cleaner I got carom Radio Shack. I was thinking of going to a boneyard to get another one, but after reading this me thinks I will just bypass the switch.

EChas3
06-05-13, 10:26 PM
Personally, I'd start looking for a good price on the replacement part. I like my things right.

Opinions vary.

BIGGUYRJ
06-09-13, 09:24 AM
I did what was suggested in another thread as a temp fix. Here's what I did, for future reference:

First you have to remove the black center plastic panel above the grille.

Using a pencil, outline where the hood latch bracket is currently mounted, on the top and as far down the sides as you can reach. . Failure to do this will make a 15-minute job into an hour's fiasco, possibly involving the use of multiple invectives.

Then remove the three bolts that hold the latch in place with a 10mm wrench (combination-ratchet works best in these tight quarters).

It seems difficult to get the connector to release, but there's enough lead on the wires to work on them while still connected.

Remove the black plastic wire protector to expose the three wires. I then used a "Tap splice" (available at any decent auto. parts store) connecting the purple and black wires.

Then replace the bracket, lining it up with the outline you made earlier.

I've been running this for two days now, and not a peep from it. I don't know if there are any negative long term affects from this, but I went ahead and ordered the part from gmdirect anyway. What's another $123 bucks. Somebody has to keep the economy going....

Hope this helps someone...