: Tuned my Stock 05 V, Dyno Graphs Inside!!



Rab986
05-31-13, 08:06 AM
I posted this in another forum but wanted to share it with my Cadillac Friends...

Hey guys, I'm not on here pounding away at the keyboard much because I do it enough at work then when I'm playing around with my hobby, tuning LSx's.

With that being said, I wanted to give a short background of this car and the tune.

2005 CTS-V rebuilder... (trying to get it finished if I could just stay out of it), bought it right, damn near stole it actually. This car is 99% stock but only because one of the cats was rattling so I had them cut off. Other than that... Bone Stock.

I have been tuning it on the street pretty much between work and the house, just dialing in the VE, MAF and timing to what I thought was optimal on the old Butt Dyno and using the AEM Wide band that I stuffed down in my ash tray. I have my VE and MAF Cal really tight now and I could not believe how far it was on the lean side from the factory, upwards of 12% out actually. There is so much power to be made just dialing in the very generic tunes that these things come with from the factory.

The first picture is pretty self explanatory, shows my new baby on the Dyno at Humble Performance in Tulsa Oklahoma.
http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/rr324/rab986/2005%20Cadillac%20CTS-V/null-1-1.jpg (http://s496.photobucket.com/user/rab986/media/2005%20Cadillac%20CTS-V/null-1-1.jpg.html)

My first Dyno pull was on the stock tune. Peaking at 326 hp and 321 tq. I was hoping that it was going to make more than that but its the cards I was delt so, whatch gonna do.... Tune it of course. After the first pull, I put what I call my street tune in it and the graph below shows the gains.
17.37hp peak gain
12.09tq peak gain

http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/rr324/rab986/2005%20Cadillac%20CTS-V/img001.jpg (http://s496.photobucket.com/user/rab986/media/2005%20Cadillac%20CTS-V/img001.jpg.html)

Next I starting tuning it on the dyno. With the heat soak, I was barely able to get much over 24* of timing due to KR which I don't see on the street. The rest of my pulls are dyno queen tunes but I know it will make more on the street because it runs 28* with no KR. After Lowering the AFR from 13.0 to 12.8 I was able to make a considerable amount more power which the next two graphs show. The first one showing the difference between my street tune and final tune and the second one is compared against the stock tune. Enjoy..

Total Peak Gains from stock.
26.77 HP
26.42 Tq
http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/rr324/rab986/2005%20Cadillac%20CTS-V/img002.jpg (http://s496.photobucket.com/user/rab986/media/2005%20Cadillac%20CTS-V/img002.jpg.html)
http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/rr324/rab986/2005%20Cadillac%20CTS-V/img003.jpg (http://s496.photobucket.com/user/rab986/media/2005%20Cadillac%20CTS-V/img003.jpg.html)

AAIIIC
05-31-13, 08:11 AM
Good stuff, thanks for sharing. Is this just something you do on your own for shits and giggles, or do you tune professionally?

FuzzyLogic
05-31-13, 10:43 AM
I'd recommend running your tune past Vmapper on the LS1Tech forums. Peer review rocks. Also highly recommend an IAT sensor relocate with a fast acting sensor to avoid heatsoak from the radiator.

By the way, how does it feel now compared to before?

Skidmarcx
05-31-13, 11:15 AM
Nice job man

Rab986
05-31-13, 01:07 PM
I'd recommend running your tune past Vmapper on the LS1Tech forums. Peer review rocks. Also highly recommend an IAT sensor relocate with a fast acting sensor to avoid heatsoak from the radiator.

By the way, how does it feel now compared to before?

Why relocate to fool it when I can change the parameters?

I do not do it professionally, more like a hobby.

Thanks guys.

FuzzyLogic
05-31-13, 02:41 PM
Why relocate to fool it when I can change the parameters?

Because your readings are inaccurate. The stock sensor is located directly above the radiator. In stop and go, you're effectively reading the temperature of the surrounding plastic, not the air that your engine is consuming.

xbladr
05-31-13, 02:59 PM
Great numbers man well done

Rab986
05-31-13, 03:28 PM
Because your readings are inaccurate. The stock sensor is located directly above the radiator. In stop and go, you're effectively reading the temperature of the surrounding plastic, not the air that your engine is consuming.

Ahhh, I haven't even looked at where its located, I was actually thinking that it was built into the MAF on these cars but never really thought about it. I'm building a free-er (is that a word) flowing intake tube and will relocate it tomorrow.
Thanks for the Info.

As far as telling a difference driving... It's night and day. I'm sure it's a mixture of weight and dual mass flywheel but this thing felt lathargic compared to my old 03 Z06. I'm starting to feel like I'm slowly creeping up on it now. I'm researching a good set of headers without premium price along with a cam/spring package.

Oh, and I'm trolling Craigslist for an 8.8. I have access to any material and equipment I want to build anything I need but I'm finding it hard to find a 31 spline Diff for these things, to even get started on the fabrication.

FuzzyLogic
05-31-13, 08:49 PM
Ahhh, I haven't even looked at where its located, I was actually thinking that it was built into the MAF on these cars but never really thought about it. I'm building a free-er (is that a word) flowing intake tube and will relocate it tomorrow.
Thanks for the Info.

As far as telling a difference driving... It's night and day. I'm sure it's a mixture of weight and dual mass flywheel but this thing felt lathargic compared to my old 03 Z06. I'm starting to feel like I'm slowly creeping up on it now. I'm researching a good set of headers without premium price along with a cam/spring package.

Oh, and I'm trolling Craigslist for an 8.8. I have access to any material and equipment I want to build anything I need but I'm finding it hard to find a 31 spline Diff for these things, to even get started on the fabrication.

Check it out:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/16592376-post14.html

I included a handy parts list for you.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/QuicksilverG4/CTS-V/IMG_0167_small.jpg

Rab986
06-01-13, 08:30 AM
Check it out:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/16592376-post14.html

I included a handy parts list for you.



I actually found the parts locally at a couple different auto parts stores. It's a push in style open bulb sensor but sensor and pigtail is $37.

Now where do I get the pin-out and wiring diagram for this mod if I'm going to be hardwiring it?

trucker922
06-01-13, 09:51 AM
I'm curious if u ever calculated mpg before & after? What kind of gains/losses did u see?

Rab986
06-01-13, 02:58 PM
I did calculate MPG before and after but.... Before I was driving it like an adult... Now i keep finding myself poking at the skinny pedal. The MPG are close even though my driving style is different between the two but i can't give an accurate report until I start getting bored with it again. I actually made some adjustements in the tune which I refer to as a pseudo-lean cruise mode and am hoping to see what it does on the next 100+ mile trip I take.