: DIY: Fixing rust in lower wheel wells...



Pitbull14218
05-25-13, 12:58 PM
Hi I have a 2002 Escalade EXT in White Diamond, it is old and has been living in western New York. Is there any products people can reccommend for fixing the rust i have? I'd like to sand it down and use primer and then base and clear it. Anyone have any experience with this, I hope white diamond can be done since i know its a complex paint mixture.

Thank you

the cadillac man
05-25-13, 01:33 PM
Hi I have a 2002 Escalade EXT in White Diamond, it is old and has been living in western New York. Is there any products people can reccommend for fixing the rust i have? I'd like to sand it down and use primer and then base and clear it. Anyone have any experience with this, I hope white diamond can be done since i know its a complex paint mixture.

Thank you

It's a three coat paint job(primer three coats of paint sealant and clear coat)

6lbsofSound
05-26-13, 01:36 PM
White diamond is tough to match are you getting rust bubbles or is eaten away already? A pic might help so we can brainstorm some fixes

Pitbull14218
05-26-13, 04:17 PM
Near running board and rear quarter meet.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m81/pitbull14218/null-1.jpg

----------

It's not a hole or anything, just surface rust thats pretty dark.

the cadillac man
05-26-13, 05:46 PM
Near running board and rear quarter meet.



----------

It's not a hole or anything, just surface rust thats pretty dark.

You will need to remove the running board then sand the area smooth primer and repaint

TLMC
05-26-13, 07:56 PM
You do not have to remove the running board. The end cap comes apart without removing the running board. The paint is called a tri coat paint and is expensive. You spray a white base, stage 1 then the pearl coat, stage 2 and clear it. being that low you won't be able to see the difference in match. When you buy the paint try to get a half pint of each, even with that you still looking at 60 to 70 bucks for the color not counting the clear or reducer.

YoshiMan
05-27-13, 12:52 AM
It may not be a bad idea to pull the running board off just to check for additional corrosion in hidden places. There may be more hiding in unseen areas

Pitbull14218
05-27-13, 11:08 AM
Here's more detailed pics.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m81/pitbull14218/null-3.jpg

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m81/pitbull14218/null-2.jpg

Waxed here looks so nice wish she had no rust at all.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m81/pitbull14218/null-4.jpg

Jophusp
05-27-13, 11:54 AM
Any White diamond EXT at a nearby junkyard? Just a thought, those panels come off pretty easy. fairly common color among 02 ext.

Pitbull14218
05-27-13, 12:02 PM
It has rust between the door and running board area tho too might pay to get it fixed if i find trying to do it myself with rattle cans won't be worth it.

Jophusp
05-27-13, 12:10 PM
Yea, I doubt it will be very easy to get in those tight spaces, and do it right so it wont come back, unless you have experience in just such a situation. If you do not mind forking out the money, it may be worth it in the long run.

the cadillac man
05-27-13, 12:56 PM
Yea, I doubt it will be very easy to get in those tight spaces, and do it right so it wont come back, unless you have experience in just such a situation. If you do not mind forking out the money, it may be worth it in the long run.

I agree

TLMC
05-27-13, 09:01 PM
That needs to be cut out and replaced.

Pitbull14218
05-27-13, 11:53 PM
That needs to be cut out and replaced.

It's not a hole, its just surface but definitely needs repair before it gets worse.

YoshiMan
05-28-13, 01:46 AM
Uhg, If i could recreate the universe, i would make steel impervious to oxidation..

Is that the only part of the truck that has any?

the cadillac man
05-28-13, 02:38 AM
Uhg, If i could recreate the universe, i would make steel impervious to oxidation..

Is that the only part of the truck that has any?

Me and you both man(I worry about this with my car due to its age(79 Chrysler cordoba))

Pitbull14218
05-28-13, 07:39 AM
Uhg, If i could recreate the universe, i would make steel impervious to oxidation..

Is that the only part of the truck that has any?

Basically. I just cleaned my leather seats yesterday, thought the back seats had some bad stains that would never come out but I got them out so I feel all proud lol. Truck is in great shape. Driver seat has wear and looks crushed from people sliding out of it. I'd like to replace the leather covers on the driver seat one day too

98WhiteSTS
08-19-13, 06:49 PM
Did you ever get this fixed? My white diamond ext is also rusting in that seam where the rocker meets the rear quarter. It is not as bad as yours and is not showing through anywhere besides the seam right now. I'm wondering if you decided to go ahead and pay to get it fixed or to do it yourself. I stopped by a shop today and was quoted just under 500 to fix both sides and nothing is guaranteed. He said they would take out that seam sealer, then grind away as much rust as they could and try to get some rust treatment in there. The problem I have with that is that the rust would still be behind there (?) and would come back through sometime. Seems like I could do that by myself and being in that small area down there it would hardly be noticeable.

Pitbull14218
10-20-13, 04:24 PM
I haven't gotten it fixed yet, I don't have extra money right now so I plan to try to do it myself, just gotta find the color match spray cans. Anyone know where to get them?

Retrax
10-23-13, 01:09 PM
The thing that sucks about rust repair is that you usually see the iceberg syndrome. What is visible on the surface is only a small part of what lurks beneath :( I live in MN and have the same spot starting on my drivers side. They say rust never sleeps so the earlier you get on it, the better in order to minimize the damage. Maybe I need to buy a DeLorean (stainless steel) or a Saturn (plastic) for a winter car!

Pitbull14218
10-26-13, 07:06 PM
I still need to get it fixed, I just plasti dipped my rims today to prepair for winter.

Silent_Assasin
11-20-13, 12:49 AM
OUCH! :ill: That hurts to look at! Those up close pics look naaasty! That is most definitely worth a proper fix!! It looks bad enough already that a "band-aid" fix will not last too long! Take it to the shop and have them make her look nice and new!!

----------


Basically. I just cleaned my leather seats yesterday, thought the back seats had some bad stains that would never come out but I got them out so I feel all proud lol. Truck is in great shape. Driver seat has wear and looks crushed from people sliding out of it. I'd like to replace the leather covers on the driver seat one day too Seatshop.com ...great website for oem matching seat covers, make your seats look brand new, and easy to install!

chacho44
11-30-13, 02:35 AM
Needs to be cut out, it looks like the cancer is coming in strong. If she's your baby do it right, of course if its in the budget.

hardhat
12-03-13, 01:05 AM
Correct DIY approach short of cutt out and replace.
Take off you your running boards completely. Sand it down to baremetal by hand 180 grit, spray with some rusterizer treatment which you can buy at any auto part store (turns rust black). Fill in any deviations from metal missing from rust you sanded off with bondo. Dont glob on bondo and use sparingly and shape it as close as you can with the bondo spatula. Sand down bondo with 240 grit then sand again with 600 grit to feather it. Go to automotivetouchup.com and order a good can of 2 part primer in a can/ your color matched paint in a can/ 2 part urethane clear in a can.
Prime over bondo and metal wait 20 minutes/ paint 2 good coats with the paint waiting 20 min between coats (flashes over- turns flat)/ Wait another 20-30 minutes then 2-3 coats of clear. Should cost you around $100. It wont be an exact match but noone will notice unless they are looking for it. Thats as close as youll get without having it blended by a body shop. $1K plus . I will say if you but cheap 1 part primer and then the nice 2 stage (urethane based) paint you will have adhesion issues. Let me know if you have anymore questons. No I dont work for any associated company.

Pitbull14218
02-22-14, 12:19 AM
I think my rust is pretty bad now, I might have to cut it out and weld more metal in its place. :/ unless they sell low quarter sections.

Trackstar85
02-26-14, 09:45 AM
The winter in the DC area showed no mercy this year with all the snow, it's snowing as I'm typing this reply and mines just started showing over the past month and it's driving me nuts. I'm going to a bodyshop as soon as I can and I'm hitting a touchless carwash every week to keep the salt off because I don't want to be riding around in a rust bucket. I can't believe how common this issue is on a truck with a MSRP of $65,000 but I still love her. We just gotta make sure we keep these trucks layered up with wax and wash weekly during the winter. Anybody paid to get this fixed, if so, how much did it cost?

the cadillac man
02-26-14, 10:31 AM
This rust talk is worrying me guys my truck Is pretty much rust free yet I drive in the snow and salt and wash her afterwards as I don't want rust with a full wash including the underbody

I have yet to see rust though

Skier-24
02-26-14, 11:30 AM
Mine has the little bit of rust at the seam on the driver's side too. And yesterday I found a small bubble on the passenger side rear fender. I will be buying the paint soon to repair the bubbles on the tailgate also.

SFX Group
02-26-14, 11:27 PM
If theres rust at the base of the rear wheel, check the arches around the wheel you will feel more (all GMC made vehicles seem to have this problem, even in the UK). Seems to be there overall design.

I have it starting to show on my blakc one, i need to get it looked at this year when hot out.

Pitbull14218
09-13-14, 10:36 AM
So do they make any patch panels for these escalade EXTs?

Mine definitely needs a patch panel or to be cut out and metal welded in.

Retrax
09-18-14, 11:08 AM
I have the same thing. I took mine to three different body shops. All of them said the same thing. They won't touch it because the rust gets between the panels behind the pinch welds in the wheel well and up,under the rocker starting it to rust from the back side out. They will not patch it, saying it will just come back and that is the nature of living in an area that uses salt on the roads.

I think they just don't want to deal with it and even though they tell people up front that it is a temporary fix customers probably come back bitching when the rust returns. My guess is that the body shops don't want to get a reputation for shoddy work.

I don't care if it only lasts 2 years. I will pay to have it cut out and repaired again if needed. It is getting harder to find places that will cut and patch. They only want to replace entire panels now because it is easier and there is more profit in it. They told me the only way the paint would match would be to replace the whole rear quarter panel and paint the entire left side of the truck for 6 to 8 thousand dollars.

Total BS. My dad had his cars cut and patched in the 70's and 80's and they could feather in the paint just fine. You couldn't even tell. Yes, it came back about every three years but several small weld in repairs over the life of a car are a fraction of a "6 or 8 thousand dollar" repair.

They do make replacement rocker panels and cab corners. I think I have found a retired body shop guy who does small jobs out of his house to do my repair. If not, I will cut it out myself, screen and bondo it, and prime seal and top coat it myself. It probably won't look the greatest but nobody's going to be staring at a three inch section down by my floor board.

Pitbull14218
09-20-14, 08:57 PM
I have the same thing. I took mine to three different body shops. All of them said the same thing. They won't touch it because the rust gets between the panels behind the pinch welds in the wheel well and up,under the rocker starting it to rust from the back side out. They will not patch it, saying it will just come back and that is the nature of living in an area that uses salt on the roads.

I think they just don't want to deal with it and even though they tell people up front that it is a temporary fix customers probably come back bitching when the rust returns. My guess is that the body shops don't want to get a reputation for shoddy work.

I don't care if it only lasts 2 years. I will pay to have it cut out and repaired again if needed. It is getting harder to find places that will cut and patch. They only want to replace entire panels now because it is easier and there is more profit in it. They told me the only way the paint would match would be to replace the whole rear quarter panel and paint the entire left side of the truck for 6 to 8 thousand dollars.

Total BS. My dad had his cars cut and patched in the 70's and 80's and they could feather in the paint just fine. You couldn't even tell. Yes, it came back about every three years but several small weld in repairs over the life of a car are a fraction of a "6 or 8 thousand dollar" repair.

They do make replacement rocker panels and cab corners. I think I have found a retired body shop guy who does small jobs out of his house to do my repair. If not, I will cut it out myself, screen and bondo it, and prime seal and top coat it myself. It probably won't look the greatest but nobody's going to be staring at a three inch section down by my floor board.

A friend of mine recommended a local body shop to me, I had him look at my truck and he said he can do it cheap for $500 but it won't last more than 6months. He doesn't know if they make patch panels for it but I can call him Monday and he will see.

I told him I want to fix it to sell it, but he said to try to sell it how it is and if people think its a big deal say this is the cost with it not fixed, and with it fixed its $1,000 more.

60COUPE
09-22-14, 12:45 AM
Sorry to say that is rusted from the back, GM sprays seam sealer in some areas for sound reduction but this is done before e coat is done. So the result is bare panels in low rockers and 1/4 panels, you can clean off some of the surface rust to make it look better but you have bigger problems.

Retrax
09-24-14, 12:38 PM
So why couldn't you just cut out the rocker and weld a new one in to fix it?

SFX Group
09-24-14, 01:49 PM
You would, not sure why they dont like doing it, i am trying to find a spray show in Kitchern / Waterloo area (Canada, ON) to do the same thing.

SFX Group
10-02-14, 11:32 PM
UPDATE:

Anyone have aftermarket part numbers for the lower sill (rocker panel i think its called) under the doors? cant find them in Canada. Ive had 1 body shop say they can get them but he GMC aftermarket are cheaper than the Cadillac aftermarket and are the same part numbers.

SO there upping the price as the same part would fit a "Cadillac".

I wont list prices being in Canada as everything is way more expensive here, however the most expensive is almost twice the price as the single owner shop that’s being going 25 years so you do need to shop around.

I am having the lower doors done as well, the rocker covers and rear arches. However part numbers for parts would be very handy.