: 1983 2 door brougham V8 a/c compressor



caddy1983
05-25-13, 03:05 AM
charged my a/c system about 4 months ago and now its leaking from the back of the a/c compressor. My mechanic said I
need a new compressor. O.K I need a new compressor after 30 years of service with my OEM compressor. My leak was
coming only from the compressor. Do you guys recommend I replace the a/c lines and any other part that can give me
problems when I add a new compressor (will rebuild my OEM compressor). How easy is it to replace my compressor. Is there a write up on this job?

The Ape Man
05-25-13, 01:14 PM
My 1980 2 door Fleetwood still has the original compressor and the system has most likely never even been cracked open. 71K right now.

Those radial compressors can work great. I always used the axial type when doing engine conversions. Possibly not the best route. Hopefully Cadillac compressors were better than Chevy compressors as with TH-400 transmissions : ) Back in the day I saw a lot of the radial compressors fail with less use than I thought was acceptable.

Always change the expansion tube when opening the system. Don't let anyone talk you into using anything other than R-12 refrigerant. Substitutes all have drawbacks, some are plain awful. 134A is popular and does not work well with your type of condensor.

If the AC system seems to be weak after repair check the evaporator. Old cars can have years of debris covering a lot of the evap. That happened to my '77 which had not been stored under a tree but was well used.

Have you found the leak using dye or a sniffer?

jayoldschool
05-25-13, 01:27 PM
It's probably just the O rings where the lines seal to the compressor.

caddy1983
05-25-13, 03:11 PM
When I took back my car to have my mechanic see whats going on with my loss of cold air, he did not need to add a dye or a sniffer. He pointed out where the leak was coming from. The leak was right behind the compressor where the a/c connectors attach. he said it might just be the o-rings. Its a chance you have to take by just replacing the o-rings. He recommends to rebuild your oem or buy a new oem compressor. Theres a local guy here who has a great reputation with rebuilding these compressors, starters etc........How easy is it to replace this compressor?

SafariOne
05-27-13, 02:29 AM
It's not that bad of a job. When I took mine off I usually take off all the brackets and bolts and clean/paint everything up nice so it takes a bit longer but looks great. I took the generator off too and painted it. It is tight in there so have patience so you don't break any electrical lines. Make sure you take off the ground from the battery if you plan on doing the gen.

jayoldschool
05-27-13, 11:57 AM
Once again, the leak is probably just your o rings. If it's empty now due to the leak, simply go to your local parts store, get new o rings, unbolt the lines, replace the o rings (you probably need to coat them in ester or PAG oil, check the FSM), and take it to a shop to have a vacuum pulled (this will tell you if there are leaks, and purge the system of moisture), and if vacuum holds, fill it up, enjoy your cold AC and all the bills you kept in your wallet.

carnut
05-29-13, 05:35 PM
Have him pull the hose manifold off the back of the compressor (one bolt holds it to the compressor) and verify the manifold flange on the hose is perfectly flat and if so, replace the O rings only. If the flange is warped you either dress the flange with a fine file ( assuming he wants to do this and knows how ) or replace the hose manifold assembly. I've yet to see a warped surface on a compressor. People will overtighten the hose flange and warp the flange. I'm a bit leery regarding this mechanic. Seems he's trying to make sure he doesn't have a comeback rather than watching your wallet and retention as a customer. IMO!!!