: AC doesn't work but compressor kicks on



af908
05-24-13, 09:44 PM
Went to top off the freon and it was full, the valve must be stuck because the freon in the system kept comming out untill my system drained completely.

Obviously im going to have to replace that elbow with the intake valve on it. Any one have the part number?

with all this said, why doesnt my AC blow cold (prior to the freon leaking out of course) , the Compressor seemed to kick on just fine

Thanks guys

the cadillac man
05-24-13, 10:44 PM
Went to top off the freon and it was full, the valve must be stuck because the freon in the system kept comming out untill my system drained completely.

Obviously im going to have to replace that elbow with the intake valve on it. Any one have the part number?

with all this said, why doesnt my AC blow cold (prior to the freon leaking out of course) , the Compressor seemed to kick on just fine

Thanks guys

You need the system checked by a professional

af908
05-28-13, 01:23 PM
One more thing i noticed, when i got under the truck with the AC on, the compressor actually repeatidly shuts off after about 10 seconds, turns on for 10 seconds, shuts off for 10 seconds, etc. etc...

Is this normal or should the compressor stay on the full time the AC is on?

Pitbull14218
05-28-13, 02:36 PM
One more thing i noticed, when i got under the truck with the AC on, the compressor actually repeatidly shuts off after about 10 seconds, turns on for 10 seconds, shuts off for 10 seconds, etc. etc...

Is this normal or should the compressor stay on the full time the AC is on?

The compressor turns on for a few seconds because the pressures rise while the compressors off.

Once it turns back on the compressor causes the low side pressures to decrease to the point it shuts off due to low pressure.

You are low on refrigerant. Get a charging kit, look up a pressure temperature chart for 134a and charge it til the high side pressure matches a temperature of 30 degrees above the outside temp at that very moment.

You can over charge, make sure you don't. I don't think all your refrigerant leaked out, since it at least turns on for a few seconds.

af908
05-29-13, 10:07 AM
The compressor turns on for a few seconds because the pressures rise while the compressors off.

Once it turns back on the compressor causes the low side pressures to decrease to the point it shuts off due to low pressure.

You are low on refrigerant. Get a charging kit, look up a pressure temperature chart for 134a and charge it til the high side pressure matches a temperature of 30 degrees above the outside temp at that very moment.

You can over charge, make sure you don't. I don't think all your refrigerant leaked out, since it at least turns on for a few seconds.

Refridgerate was full when i went to put it in. Thats how the whole mess with it leaking out started. That needle valve is stuck open now slightly. I was able to put the rubber protective cap on and that sealed it enough to make it stop comming out.

Just wondering if it was normal for the compressor to constantly kick on then off and continue the cycle indefinitely with the AC button pressed on. Since you are saying it is, i guess i have to go with caddilac man's suggestion and go to a professional, as i am out of ideas..

Pitbull14218
05-29-13, 01:29 PM
Refridgerate was full when i went to put it in. Thats how the whole mess with it leaking out started. That needle valve is stuck open now slightly. I was able to put the rubber protective cap on and that sealed it enough to make it stop comming out.

Just wondering if it was normal for the compressor to constantly kick on then off and continue the cycle indefinitely with the AC button pressed on. Since you are saying it is, i guess i have to go with caddilac man's suggestion and go to a professional, as i am out of ideas..

It should run constantly without cycling on and off, usually when it cycles on and off like that its either low on charge or over filled.

I do A/C for a living, if you lived near buffalo NY, I'd look at it for you.

That little needle is the shrader valve, its like a tire valve stem. You can try to tighten it eith small needle nose plyers since I don't think you have a thermostat screw driver(usually the top of the t-stat screwdriver has the ability to tighten shrader valve cores.

It could of just leaked when you took the gauge off tho, the hose will have refrigerant in it and basically you have to remove the hose as fast as you can so the shrader core closes and then what was in your hoses will leak out. That's normal.

Does the refrigerant charge kit have a pressure gauge on it? I believe you just need to charge it til its reading green on the gauge.

af908
05-30-13, 10:04 AM
It should run constantly without cycling on and off, usually when it cycles on and off like that its either low on charge or over filled.

I do A/C for a living, if you lived near buffalo NY, I'd look at it for you.

That little needle is the shrader valve, its like a tire valve stem. You can try to tighten it eith small needle nose plyers since I don't think you have a thermostat screw driver(usually the top of the t-stat screwdriver has the ability to tighten shrader valve cores.

It could of just leaked when you took the gauge off tho, the hose will have refrigerant in it and basically you have to remove the hose as fast as you can so the shrader core closes and then what was in your hoses will leak out. That's normal.

Does the refrigerant charge kit have a pressure gauge on it? I believe you just need to charge it til its reading green on the gauge.

Well, my original thought was that it was underfilled on refrigerant, which is why i bought some refrigerant with a gauge, but when i went to go fill it and hooked it up to the inlet, the needle shot all the way to red, telling me it was full. So i pulled the hose off, and thats when the needle valve stuck open a little, constantly pouring freon out. I then took that black plastic dust-cap that goes over the inlet, and thought hey maybe that will stop it enough to at least save some of my freon. And it did. But obviously this is not the way to fix things.... Could you elaborate more on how exactly to tighten this needle valve? Do i turn it with the pliers? or do i just try to pull up?

Pitbull14218
05-30-13, 09:17 PM
The valve core is just like a cars tire valve stem. You depress the tip and it opens and lets refrigerant out or in during charging. The protective cover/cap will never seal it if the core itself is leaking due to a bad seal or sometimes it freezes open if you dont take the hose off fast enough.

You might be able to tighten it with needle nose plyers. It's not the little tip you turn clockwise, here's a vid to show what I'm talking about. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rqzes8K6uDY. You don't need to crank it, I would suggest spraying it with a bubble soap solution to see if its really leaking, I think it got stuck open/froze for a couple seconds when you took the hose off.

So if it went straight to red when you initially put the hose on its probably due to a dirty condenser which is not able to reject the heat. Take a hose and try to rinse it off with water, this might not be enough to really clean it, you might need to take your grill off and radiator shroud to clean between your radiator and condenser. If all else fails go to a hvac supply store and buy some condenser coil cleaner but make sure you get one that won't ruin your paint.

af908
05-31-13, 12:11 PM
The valve core is just like a cars tire valve stem. You depress the tip and it opens and lets refrigerant out or in during charging. The protective cover/cap will never seal it if the core itself is leaking due to a bad seal or sometimes it freezes open if you dont take the hose off fast enough.

You might be able to tighten it with needle nose plyers. It's not the little tip you turn clockwise, here's a vid to show what I'm talking about. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rqzes8K6uDY. You don't need to crank it, I would suggest spraying it with a bubble soap solution to see if its really leaking, I think it got stuck open/froze for a couple seconds when you took the hose off.

So if it went straight to red when you initially put the hose on its probably due to a dirty condenser which is not able to reject the heat. Take a hose and try to rinse it off with water, this might not be enough to really clean it, you might need to take your grill off and radiator shroud to clean between your radiator and condenser. If all else fails go to a hvac supply store and buy some condenser coil cleaner but make sure you get one that won't ruin your paint.

Thanks Pitbull, ill try tightening it first, if not maybe i can pull the shrader valve out like the guy in the video did and go to and autoparts store and get a new one right?

Yes it is definitely leaking after i tried filling the freon up, i can actually hear the hiss, its pretty loud. That rubber dust cap provided enough seal to stop it for the time being while i figure out what the hell is wrong with my AC in the first place.

Ill take a look at the condensor, thanks.

Pitbull14218
05-31-13, 06:47 PM
Thanks Pitbull, ill try tightening it first, if not maybe i can pull the shrader valve out like the guy in the video did and go to and autoparts store and get a new one right?

Yes it is definitely leaking after i tried filling the freon up, i can actually hear the hiss, its pretty loud. That rubber dust cap provided enough seal to stop it for the time being while i figure out what the hell is wrong with my AC in the first place.

Ill take a look at the condensor, thanks.

I wouldn't pull it out to replace it with a new one because you can't let oxygen or moisture in the system. If you pull the core out it the refrigerant will come out very fast and very cold, could give you frost bite. Now i don't know if an auto store would have shrader cores, but what I would reccommend is for you to go to an hvac supply store, you can get valve cores there and the tool to remove it. They even make a tool to change the core without emptying the system but its expensive.

If you plan on changing the core, make sure you have a replacement ready. Pull the old one and let most of the charge out, let the charge out until its slow and comin out slow, that way no moisture will get in because it will have pressure pushing outwards.

Then quickly install the new core while its coming out slow and then recharge it.

That's the only way to prevent oxygen from getting in your system.

Do this only if tightening the core doesn't stop the leak.

af908
06-03-13, 05:09 PM
I wouldn't pull it out to replace it with a new one because you can't let oxygen or moisture in the system. If you pull the core out it the refrigerant will come out very fast and very cold, could give you frost bite. Now i don't know if an auto store would have shrader cores, but what I would reccommend is for you to go to an hvac supply store, you can get valve cores there and the tool to remove it. They even make a tool to change the core without emptying the system but its expensive.

If you plan on changing the core, make sure you have a replacement ready. Pull the old one and let most of the charge out, let the charge out until its slow and comin out slow, that way no moisture will get in because it will have pressure pushing outwards.

Then quickly install the new core while its coming out slow and then recharge it.

That's the only way to prevent oxygen from getting in your system.

Do this only if tightening the core doesn't stop the leak.

Hey pitbull if im reading this right your suggesting i change the shrader valve WHILE im emptying the system through the Outlet hose? wouldnt there be a crapload of pressure pushing out while im trying to install the new shrader valve on the inlet side (the broken side) since ill be removing the shrader valve compeletly on that end?

Maybe there is air in the system now and thats why the AC isnt working? The condensor looks fine to me i checked it out.

Sorry for the questions i am a complete noob when it comes to AC stuff..

Pitbull14218
06-04-13, 12:00 PM
Hey pitbull if im reading this right your suggesting i change the shrader valve WHILE im emptying the system through the Outlet hose? wouldnt there be a crapload of pressure pushing out while im trying to install the new shrader valve on the inlet side (the broken side) since ill be removing the shrader valve compeletly on that end?

Maybe there is air in the system now and thats why the AC isnt working? The condensor looks fine to me i checked it out.

Sorry for the questions i am a complete noob when it comes to AC stuff..

It's ok I didn't explain it well.

If you're gonna change the core, loosen the bad one to remove it but once refrigerant starts coming out back off and let it bleed out until it starts coming out slow, it should still be audible making a hissing sound when it slows down enough for you to completely remove the shrader and install the new one.

This method the system still has small amount of pressure so no oxygen or moisture will get in there. Now your system will be almost empty and you'll have to charge it. When you charge it do it with the truck running with a/c on (although the compressor will be off on low pressure and short cycle).

Fill it slowly only opening the valve on the charge kit a small amount meterin it in.

Pitbull14218
06-04-13, 10:30 PM
Tresdad - your pm box is full