: My 79 Coupe Won't Start



Sweet D'Elegance
05-22-13, 06:26 PM
This morning my 1979 Coupe Deville wouldn't start. The last few times I drove it, it's been running a little rougher than usual, but it always starts. When I start it, it usually takes 3 turns of the key with several pats of the gas before it fires, but this morning it just kept turning over. The last time this happened I had the ignition module replaced. My car has 94,500 miles on it. What are your thoughts??? Mine has a carburetor, NOT fuel injection.

History

I bought the car with 93,000 miles on it. I replaced plugs and wires, air filter, ignition module, cap and rotor, added dual exhausts with 50 series Flowmasters. What did I miss???

lacville78
05-22-13, 06:45 PM
Pour a little gas down the carb, if it starts then it is a fuel issue. If it doesn't pull a plug wire, stick a screwdriver in it and get it near some metal and get someone to turn it over and check for spark. This will help figure out what is going on.

Sweet D'Elegance
05-22-13, 06:51 PM
I actually sprayed some starter fluid in it a while ago and it did nothing. I'm gonna pour a little gas and see what I get. Thanks!

jamespowers
05-22-13, 07:49 PM
I actually sprayed some starter fluid in it a while ago and it did nothing. I'm gonna pour a little gas and see what I get. Thanks!

Sounds you are getting no spark. If starting fluid doesn't get it to fire....:suspect:

lacville78
05-22-13, 08:01 PM
I actually sprayed some starter fluid in it a while ago and it did nothing. I'm gonna pour a little gas and see what I get. Thanks!

Starting fluid should have done it, but if you're going to put gas in the carb, make sure to only use a little. Like a couple of cap fulls.

jamespowers
05-22-13, 08:26 PM
Starting fluid should have done it, but if you're going to put gas in the carb, make sure to only use a little. Like a couple of cap fulls.

And wipe up any spills BEFORE you crank it.

Fleetwood472
05-22-13, 09:37 PM
Check the pickup coil wires. If you pull the rotor off you can see there will be 2 wires at the base of the distributor. If it's original a lot of times they become brittle and break off from the vacuum advance moving it back and fourth. You should be able to easily see the broken wires. If that looks ok then it's probably the module. One dead give a way with a bad pickup coil is usually one wire will break and the engine will run really rough then when the other breaks it will no longer start.

carnut
05-22-13, 09:43 PM
Take the wing nut off the air filter and pour gas thru the stud hole. That way if it back fires it wont flame up.

1980coupe
05-23-13, 12:06 AM
Clogged fuel filter???

deVille33
05-23-13, 11:26 AM
These engines are easy to work on, but you do need a few gauges and tools to get the info you need to make more than a guess at the reasons for the problems. Pull the air cleaner and set it aside. Open the front air choke valve and look down the carb and pull the throttle back. If you don't see any jets of fuel, the carb reservoir is empty and the fuel is more than the suspect. If that is the result, disconnect the fuel line from the front of the filter. You need a 1" line wrench or open end combo to hold the filter housing and a 5/8 line wrench for the fuel line fitting. Sometimes these connections have been there so long they do not separate easily. You have to snap the two apart rather than use increasing pressure to break the connection. If that doesn't work, I cut the fuel line and remove the filter housing and line together. Check out the filter for any debris (mud). Mud - you have problems back at the tank. If there was fuel and pressure when you cracked the line, your pump is probably good. Nothing - your pump is suspect. Now, you need a pressure gauge. they have inexpensive Vacuum / Pressure gauges at any auto parts store. One side of the scale reads Vacuum and the other, Pressure. Pressure should read between 8 and 12 #s Under 6# - pump is junk. :)

Sweet D'Elegance
05-26-13, 10:19 AM
I really appreciate everyone's input, this forum is great! After checking for spark and finding NONE, I did a visual inspection of the wires and such under the distributor to find everything intact. After doing a bit of research on symptoms of a faulty ignition module, I realized that my car had been displaying the symptoms leading up to my NO START, including random misfires under acceleration, stalling, etc. I replaced the module ($30.00) and she started right up! Now it's running perfectly!!! :cool:

Sweet D'Elegance
05-26-13, 10:25 AM
Here's a few pictures of my car:
110577
110593
110601
I'm running full duals with 50 Series Flowmasters and it sounds AMAZING!!!

lacville78
05-26-13, 05:12 PM
Glad you got her going again.
Get a video up, I want to hear the mighty beast roar!

talismandave
05-27-13, 02:05 AM
Beautiful ride. Prefect color for a classic Cadillac.

deVille33
05-27-13, 10:41 AM
The pillowed seats and the door panels suggests that it is a DeElegance, a dealer optioned car. They often came with the CB radio and other finer options. Looks similar to mine.

SafariOne
05-27-13, 03:24 PM
Good to hear that you got her running again, and I like what you've done with the dual exhaust.

carnut
05-29-13, 03:49 PM
The module you replaced fails primarily because of high resistance in the secondary ignition system which eventually causes the module to overheat then fail. Old Plug wires, worn cap and or rotor will cause this. Also its important to have the heat sink paste under it.

pompste
05-30-13, 04:40 AM
Here's a few pictures of my car:
110577
110593
110601
I'm running full duals with 50 Series Flowmasters and it sounds AMAZING!!!

Love that color.What a classy Caddy!