: What scissor jack would you use on a V?

05-21-13, 12:41 PM
I've discovered the V model trim covers the pinch rail jack points of the 'lesser' CTS models and instead we're supposed to jack with the eye-bolt pucks a little further under the car. That's fine for home and my big floor jack, but I want something in the car so I can get a tire off if I have an issue (I refuse to use those liquid repair sealants). I have a trusty BlackJack tire plugging kit that is downright awesome.

So, do you guys have any suggestions for a small scissor jack that I can keep in the car for times of need? It has to be a model that can safely accept one of the eye-bolt pucks...I've had cars slip off jacks before and it isn't pretty.

05-21-13, 07:19 PM
I have the "Insta Jack" suv/truck model by CSA (insta jack.com). Sold at a discount by Heartland America from their website and catalog. 12 volt with a broad base that won't tip. Also has a fold out mirror and light for positioning. It lifts one of the heavy front corners of my vagon easily. I lift at the torsion boxes up against the pinch weld with both this and my floor jack as recommended in the shop manual and place a stand deeper on the rail. The OEM jack that came with my Eurotek spare kit seems a little unstable, but I carry it too. Do you not trust the strength of the torsion box? I have sometimes used a block of wood, larger than a puck, to distribute the weight but I do hate the sound of cracking wood. I just developed a slow leak in my right rear tire so I'll be pulling and leak testing the wheel tomorrow. I expect to find a screw or nail which I plan to pull and plug. Why do you prefer the Black Jack kit over traditional plugs and where is it sold? What about the reliability of a plugged tire? I have to resolve this problem fast as I plan to take the car on a trip this weekend.

05-21-13, 07:52 PM
I'm not totally clear on what a torsion box is. Looking under the car, I can see where the dealer lifted it. I like the rear point, but the front seems tenuous if the torsion box is what I think it is (between trim and deeper rail running the length of the car just behind the front wheel.

I found a decent Wilmar scissor jack and fabricated my own pucks with eye bolts. Not totally sure how the scissor jack will stay mated with the puck though.

The Blackjack kit is awesome. Here's their website: http://www.blackjacktirerepair.com/index.asp?cat=10 The kits come with everything you need to ream a puncture, jam a new self-vulcanizing plug in, and trim it flush. I've plugged my previous car's tires about 5 times and tracked it relentlessly. Never an issue and no leaks. I don't see any point in the traditional plugging and patching with tire removal since this works so damn well. I keep the kit in the car with a set of pliers for nail removal and know I'm good to go unless I get a massive slash.

05-21-13, 09:14 PM
The lift points shown in the shop manual are exactly those flat areas with some holes in front of the rear wheels and to the rear of the front wheels and seem strongest against the pinch weld. The rails further in seem stronger but are thin and might slip off the jack and are hard to reach. For whatever reason they weren't advised though I will use a jack stand there. I have pucks with bolts, but don't know they won't slip, especially since the eye bolts won't fit the holes.

I like the self-vulcanizing Black Jack plugs but since I have a conventional plug with adhesive kit and am in a hurry I'll likely use that. First I have to find the leak. It's what's been used as long as there's been tubeless tires so I should be ok. There's no way it can blow out so the worst it could be I'll have a slow leak and I carry the compressor.