: Rear links



BEarle
05-18-13, 11:00 PM
When I lowered my truck I read that you have to bend the rear links so the rear would match the front? Is this right? The reason why I'm asking is when I go over bumps the rear plops down.

Cadsrfun
05-19-13, 04:24 AM
When I lowered my truck I read that you have to bend the rear links so the rear would match the front? Is this right? The reason why I'm asking is when I go over bumps the rear plops down.

I am going to take a strap at this one. I think you mean the link between the trailing arm and the rheostat arm that controls the normal height of the rear suspension, one on each side. The Beltech rear 3" lowering kit came with shorter link rods to replace the stock ones in the rear. The front suspension links did not have to be touched because I used 2" dropped spindles. Mine is also a 2010. No error codes at all.

BEarle
05-19-13, 08:27 AM
Yes you are correct! I have the McGaughys and they said to bend the existing ones. Would eBay have shorter ones? I think by bending them would put strain on the metal and they will snap. Also when you have people in the back, do your wheels rub bad?

Cadsrfun
05-19-13, 10:12 AM
Yes you are correct! I have the McGaughys and they said to bend the existing ones. Would eBay have shorter ones? I think by bending them would put strain on the metal and they will snap. Also when you have people in the back, do your wheels rub bad?

None on eBay, I checked. I bought my lowering kit used and it didn't come with any. The Beltech kit says to pop them off and measure them stock then use the supplied new link material to make them 1" shorter I believe. So I carefully removed the links from the trailing arms, then removed the plastic ends from each end of each link. Then I took the parts to the hardware store to find threaded screws that would screw into the plastic ends. I think it was like 12-24 or something strange like that. I cut them to the proper length with a hacksaw, then glued and threaded them into each end. A tip to removing the ends is put the link vertical in a vice and put pliers around the rod and hit the side of the pliers with a hammer to knock off the bottom one then turn it over and knock off the other end. The ends are pressed on from the factory.

The length info is in the Beltech instructions.

So I would measure the link length and record it then bend them per the McGaughy instructions. If they break don't worry because you can make new ones as I did above.

Beltech instructions, click on the PDF. http://www.belltech.com/pro-coil-spring-set-19.html

Also, no rubbing in the back at all, fully loaded with peeps and luggage. This should be your solution. Be gentle removing the upper link from the arm. If the arm bends sideway, carefully bend it back. Check that it has the full range of motion without rubbing. It should stroke smoothly.

BEarle
05-19-13, 08:58 PM
See I bent mine almost 90 degrees and put them back in. It rubs sometimes in the rear when I take corners but last night I had people in the third row and it was rubbing bad over bumps etc. it could also be the rim offset too. Thanks for your help though I will try that I appreciate it.

Cadsrfun
05-19-13, 11:16 PM
See I bent mine almost 90 degrees and put them back in. It rubs sometimes in the rear when I take corners but last night I had people in the third row and it was rubbing bad over bumps etc. it could also be the rim offset too. Thanks for your help though I will try that I appreciate it.

I just have stock 22" wheels and tires and no rubs. Sounds like you have aftermarket rims. The Beltech kit came 2" front and 3"/4" rear. The rear comes with a 1" thick spacer to put under the spring if you just want a 3" drop in the rear. The guy I got it from said to use the spacer because it rode a lot better.

Maybe someone will chim in that has the McGaughy lowering. You should mention what you have for tires and wheels.

BEarle
05-20-13, 12:54 PM
I think it's def the 24s I have because there a little more wider. The 26s I had before rubbed less then the 24s I have now.