: New Radiator - what else to change out with it?



JazMiller
05-18-13, 10:38 AM
I was greeted with some unwelcome news when I got home from work last night. Looks like I'm going to be putting in a new rad.

I'm kinda hoping that Alradco is putting a memorial day sale together .... :-)

So I figured I'd ask the forum, ... besides some new rivets for the lower plastic cover, replacement belts for AC and main serpentine, and a new thermostat, what else is common to fail or what other replacement/upgrades should I be planning for while the rad is out?

(I'm stock under the hood)


Cheers,

Jason

108561

darkman
05-18-13, 10:55 AM
Consider new radiator hoses and belt tensioner depending their ages/mileage.

JazMiller
05-18-13, 11:14 AM
Thx for that tip, I'll have a look at the tensioner. I was going to inspect the hoses, but unless something was wrong I wasn't planning on changing. I wouldn't think at my mileage I would need to replace any of these, but I guess I also would think this is a premature failure in the rad too.

31,000 miles on the odo on my 05.

darkman
05-18-13, 11:26 AM
At 31k the belt tensioner is probably okay. The hoses, on the other hand, deteriorate with the passage of time as well as mileage.

heavymetals
05-18-13, 02:03 PM
Replace the hoses to.

One hose is $150!

YEOW!

If you do the ALRADCO, it is a work of art.

I have a maggie and I think I would have had a lot easier time of it if I had just removed the front clip.

The intercooler hindered installation.

JazMiller
05-18-13, 07:44 PM
Holy carp, I wasn't expecting to see those hose prices at gmpartsdirect. Good thing I was sitting down cause I would have fallen over!

Placed my Alradco order. :) For anyone on the fence, I was pleasantly surprised that Alradco is running a Memorial Day sale that just started today, which offset my shipping and RMI-25.

HAMSTAR
05-18-13, 09:29 PM
If you haven't yet, get your motor mounts done. My guess is bad motor mounts is the reason the OEM rads fail so often.

NCOGNITO
05-18-13, 10:08 PM
I was also shocked at the price of OEM radiator hoses, but was able to cross reference the part numbers and find that Gates makes hoses to fit the V, that you can snag online for $40:

Gates 23030 (Upper) $37 @ O'Reilly, $15.54 @ Amazon and $20.79 from RockAuto.com
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/GAT0/23030/01358.oap?year=2004&make=Cadillac&model=CTS&vi=1432726&ck=Search_radiator+hose_1432726_2495&keyword=radiator+hose

Gates 23031 (Lower) $33 @ O'Reilly, $18 @ Amazon and $10.47 from RockAuto.com
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/GAT0/23031/01358.oap?year=2004&make=Cadillac&model=CTS&vi=1432726&ck=Search_radiator+hose_1432726_2495&keyword=radiator+hose

The dealership replaced mine under warranty so I didn't order or test that these fit, but they are a heck of a lot less expensive than the OEMs.

JazMiller
05-18-13, 10:26 PM
If you haven't yet, get your motor mounts done. My guess is bad motor mounts is the reason the OEM rads fail so often.

Interesting idea. I've been putting off mounts for about a year. I have a set of Creative Steel mounts that I've moved from one side of the garage to the other a few times while doing other little things on the car instead of the bigger items like mounts. I'm working my way up the DIY ladder slowly to get there...

darkman
05-18-13, 10:31 PM
If you haven't yet, get your motor mounts done. My guess is bad motor mounts is the reason the OEM rads fail so often.

How?

HAMSTAR
05-18-13, 10:59 PM
How?

Motor moving around will yank on stiff hoses connected to inevitably brittle plastic fittings on OEM rad. Why so many failures are to the hose fittings.

robojesus
05-19-13, 12:09 AM
HAMSTAR, not going to lie, when I read that post, I immediately thought "wow, that may just be the most retarded thing I've ever heard", then a few seconds later I thought, if the motor is sagging down and pulling on the cooling hose going to the top of the tank, then absolutely, that could cause the tank to eventually crack from stress. I like the way you think.

HAMSTAR
05-19-13, 04:16 PM
HAMSTAR, not going to lie, when I read that post, I immediately thought "wow, that may just be the most retarded thing I've ever heard", then a few seconds later I thought, if the motor is sagging down and pulling on the cooling hose going to the top of the tank, then absolutely, that could cause the tank to eventually crack from stress. I like the way you think.

Um, thanks, lol. Being a scientist, I tend to look at whole systems. I have to admit it was Fuzzy that first introduced the idea my shitty motor mounts (before I went to UMIs) were responsible for a whole slew of accessories that failed all around the same time.

darkman
05-19-13, 06:24 PM
Motor moving around will yank on stiff hoses connected to inevitably brittle plastic fittings on OEM rad. Why so many failures are to the hose fittings.

The original radiators suffered from a poor crimp (metal on metal) at the bottom tank, which would leak under pressure by the high rpm operation of LS motor. The replacement design cured the lower tank crimp but introduced a new problem on the upper tank crimp. I have not seen, the second design but, I do not recall the original design (which I replaced) as having any plastic fittings related to the main upper or lower hoses. It did have, a plastic T-fitting which interconnected the rubber hose to the under hood overflow tank to the rubber hose running to the engine steam vents. The T-fitting can become brittle over time due to heat exposure, but is not particularly vulnerable to a variation in engine position. Finally, the upper and lower radiator hoses are designed to accommodate a significant variation in engine position without tension. The bottom line is that I haven't seen any evidence connecting the radiator problems with engine movement.

HAMSTAR
05-19-13, 07:00 PM
On my original OEM radiator, the place where the top hose and bottom hose connected were both plastic.

The only way to ever really get evidence is to compare the failure rate between those with and without bad mounts.

darkman
05-19-13, 07:11 PM
On my original OEM radiator, the place where the top hose and bottom hose connected were both plastic.

The only way to ever really get evidence is to compare the failure rate between those with and without bad mounts.

Well if the point of connection is plastic, your original point is likely valid.

( I pulled mine and replaced it with an aluminum unit before it leaked based on the reported seam leaks of others - I just don't recall it being plastic, but I could be wrong.)

HAMSTAR
05-19-13, 07:45 PM
Well if the point of connection is plastic, your original point is likely valid.

( I pulled mine and replaced it with an aluminum unit before it leaked based on the reported seam leaks of others - I just don't recall it being plastic, but I could be wrong.)

The replacement OEM unit also had plastic hose connectors (sorry, don't know the technical term).

I wish I'd gone with an alradco. Every time I take my rad out (way too often with this car), I'm praying I don't break it.

alradco
05-20-13, 09:07 PM
Thanks for the order, Jason. Your radiator shipped today.

I'll post a thread with the current Memorial Day sale we're running.

Peter

alradco
05-30-13, 07:45 PM
FYI- 3 days left. Sale ends this weekend.

Mn800r
06-01-13, 02:45 AM
FYI- 3 days left. Sale ends this weekend.

How much?

Andringa
06-01-13, 03:01 PM
Finally got my Alradco radiator installed on Wednesday. Thanks again.

JazMiller
06-01-13, 11:39 PM
I zipped down to Pembina this morning and picked mine up, and got home in time to rip the old one out this afternoon. It's a delight to deal with companies like Alradco and I'm really glad they are helping us with this car in great ways. I ordered on a weekend and my order shipped on Monday and delivered Friday.

I spent some time this evening to install the new rad - it's a little bigger, but the space left in the car is the same size, and now I'm fighting fitment issues. It's not clearing the AC unit on the passenger side where the rad standoff T (for our forked base on the fan assembly) is knocking against the compressor before I get the base of the rad far enough to the rear of the car to get the footing into the slot. So it's pretty but at the moment it's not fitting right.

Not looking for customer service via the forums (I've sent them email and will wait to hear back in a business day or two), but if you've got an Alradco in your 05 V and had clearance issues with the AC unit, how the heck did you resolve?

112657

JazMiller
06-02-13, 01:17 PM
Ooops, my mistake, that's ABS system that the standoff is hitting, not an AC unit, long day got things mixed up there hahaha. I'm wondering if my clearance issue has anything to do with the fact that my front end has been off the floor on jackstands for 2 weeks.

Lou72
06-02-13, 09:04 PM
I too had trouble getting my Alradco radiator lined up with the ABS in the way. It seemed as if the radiator didn't have enough clearance to get the radiator foot in its hole. I found that if you put the rubber bushing in the hole and then try to slide the radiator peg into the rubber, everything lines up with a little more ease. It was still difficult to align, but after at least a good hour of failure, the radiator finally slipped into place and had plenty of clearance.