: What Fuel



johnashleyv
05-13-13, 01:17 PM
Ok, so I am very brand new to this Forum. I am having a issue with my "V" and not knowing where to start. I have this rattle that I get at idle and also under a load at acceleration. I have asked a tech and said it sounds like valve ping, because I have been running regular because I was told my another "V" owner I could do so. But the rattle I got before. I do have a corsa exhaust and have heard of the resinator going bad as well. I drove in 3 gear and a high rpm and kept acclerating and trying to find the noise, it sounds like it is coming out from near the middle of the car toward the drivers door. First what grade fuel can and should I run in here? And second what or where should I start?

darkman
05-13-13, 01:33 PM
Does the car have any modifications other than the Corsa exhaust?

johnashleyv
05-13-13, 01:35 PM
Just a volant Intake. Nothing else

darkman
05-13-13, 01:47 PM
It should run on regular fuel without "pinging." Even if it were related to fuel octane it would not do so at idle - only under load. Higher octane fuel will increase horsepower since the computer will add timing advance. Trying a tank or two is an inexpensive experiment to see if it helps.

The Corsa exhaust can rattle not only for a defective resonator, but also from fitment. The routine fix is to loosen and retighten all the hardware.

At high mileage (more than 50k miles) the stock dual-mass flywheel, which is a spring loaded device, can begin to rattle at both idle and under load.

johnashleyv
05-13-13, 01:57 PM
Ive worried about that cuz ive noticed I do have some minor clutch issues, like sometimes it does rattle when letting the clutch out. How big of a issue is that and also how expensive of a fix is it? Im just kinda curuios cuz well like I said, im new to this and want to make the car run really well and last. Ive always wanted one and finally got it. Kinda thought the sound kinda came from the area of the transmission housing.

darkman
05-13-13, 02:04 PM
Ive worried about that cuz ive noticed I do have some minor clutch issues, like sometimes it does rattle when letting the clutch out. How big of a issue is that and also how expensive of a fix is it? Im just kinda curuios cuz well like I said, im new to this and want to make the car run really well and last. Ive always wanted one and finally got it. Kinda thought the sound kinda came from the area of the transmission housing.

I don't recall any reports of the dual-mass flywheel actually failing, so I believe that they just get noisy. Typically, the dual-mass flywheel will outlast the other clutch components in the car, but that depends on how hard the driver is on clutches.

johnashleyv
05-13-13, 02:18 PM
ive been pretty good with them. Dont do a lot of beating it or anything. Just really only hard accelerating and then not much of the slamming of gears. So just kinda deal with it for now I guess.

Manofmetal01
05-13-13, 04:42 PM
I used to get a rattle not ling after getting my corsa and other exhaust parts put in...found one of the pipes was tapping against the diff. Between poor placement and old exhaust bushings there was enough play that it qas very noticeable. Loosened all the clamps, readjusted until I felt it was good, tightened and now all I hear is the exhaust. Hopefully thats all youre dealing with.

mstrjon32
05-13-13, 04:47 PM
My 2 cents: I'm not sure of the cause of your noise, but if you fill up once a week, and premium costs 30 cents more per gallon, and you put in 15 gallons, you're spending an extra $4.50 a week. Do this 52 times a year and you're spending an extra $234 a year. Nothing to sneeze at, but not breaking the bank either and it's cheap insurance to know that your expensive engine is running on the fuel it was designed to run on and you're getting the best performance (and fuel economy) possible.

johnashleyv
05-13-13, 05:46 PM
was this only during accleration or all the time?

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I just started running regular because I was told I could do so. Wasn't for expense purpose, just told I wouldn't lose any performance really out of it and wouldn't do any damage. So figured it wouldn't hurt. Wasn't trying to chince out, just basically like buying wal-mart brand cherrios and name brand cheerios. Why buy name brand if the other's taste exactly the same.

mstrjon32
05-13-13, 05:50 PM
I just started running regular because I was told I could do so. Wasn't for expense purpose, just told I wouldn't lose any performance really out of it and wouldn't do any damage. So figured it wouldn't hurt. Wasn't trying to chince out, just basically like buying wal-mart brand cherrios and name brand cheerios. Why buy name brand if the other's taste exactly the same.

Fair enough. IMO, that was poor advice. While you can run the car on regular in a pinch, you are definitely going to get more KR and lower performance on regular.

johnashleyv
05-13-13, 06:17 PM
what is KR?

PISNUOFF
05-13-13, 06:39 PM
The computer senses knock and retards the timing (KR = knock retard). After a certain number of knocks in a specified timeframe it reverts to a low octane spark timing map. You definitely WILL lose performance and depending on the fuel you may still experience additional knock/pinging under hard acceleration. Stick with the highest octane you can run. I always run Shell V-Power. Not because it has V in the name but all my vehicles run better on it.

With all that said, I have seen and tuned two LS motor cars that sound like they are pinging (like a small pebble in an aluminum can) that could not be tuned out, even by fattening the AFR and dropping the timing down to virtually nothing. Both vehicles (one manual and one automatic) made the noise prior to tuning and still make the sound even after 35,000 miles after I tuned them.

JDB
05-13-13, 07:14 PM
My 2 cents: I'm not sure of the cause of your noise, but if you fill up once a week, and premium costs 30 cents more per gallon, and you put in 15 gallons, you're spending an extra $4.50 a week. Do this 52 times a year and you're spending an extra $234 a year. Nothing to sneeze at, but not breaking the bank either and it's cheap insurance to know that your expensive engine is running on the fuel it was designed to run on and you're getting the best performance (and fuel economy) possible.

Agreed! If you can't spend 2 bills on your car, you bought the wrong car.

93 only. Heck, I used 94 when Sunoco once had it in other cars that only needed 91+ as well.

Using 87/regular isn't saving you any money.

thebigjimsho
05-14-13, 10:47 AM
The Wal-Mart cheerio analogy is bad. Feel free to find the cheapest gas. But each gas station doesn't have 3 grades of gas just for the heck of it...

Skidmarcx
05-14-13, 01:36 PM
To run anything less than 91 octane in a V is plain stupid... Whoever told you to run 87 because you can is an idiot... Of course you can drive it easy on 87, but what's the point?

RyRidesMotoX
05-14-13, 02:01 PM
I completely agree... Highest octane the gas station has is for me. I prefer either Shell or Chevron. Apparently they have higher detergent properties in the fuel or whatever. I don't know about that I just know that I seem to get slightly better fuel economy with them.

johnashleyv
05-14-13, 04:26 PM
so found the issue guys, got it up on the lift after work and looked around. turns out it was the exhaust rattling on a brace under neath. got some exhaust wrap and wrapped it. Ive only been going off what people tell me. So only looking for adivce, not critsism. I don't know, so that's why I come here.

Skidmarcx
05-14-13, 06:13 PM
Glad you found the rattle I'm sure it was annoying... Just FYI this is the Internet you will get a bag of shit with your dozen roses... Free of charge... Can't take it all personal... Just sayin

PISNUOFF
05-14-13, 06:37 PM
Glad to hear it was just an exhaust rattle.

I think they were saying whoever told you to run 87 was an idiot. Can you run it? Yes. Is it recommended? No. You don't even save on fuel mileage because it takes more fuel to get the same power as higher octane to maintain speed or accelerate.

johnashleyv
05-14-13, 08:02 PM
I know, actually work in a internet department so take everything with a grain of salt. Im glad it was exhaust rattle as well. I mean, yeah I want the engine to last but actually trying to keep it togther just for the summer cuz next winter its going to a local dyno shop hopefully if all goes as planned. I want to put a L92 aluminum Block, 4340 forged Crank and rods, custom forged pistons, plasma moly rings, valley tray, rod and main bearings in. Its a whole new setup that should proudce about 600 to the flywheel. Because I do eventually want to make it a 700hp to the wheels naturally aspirated machine. But hey, gotta start somewhere. Not clamming to know it all or anything for that matter. Just know what I want haha.

PISNUOFF
05-14-13, 09:42 PM
700 to the wheels NA is a bit of a stretch. My NA 418 LS3 stroker put down 513 on a mustang.

johnashleyv
05-14-13, 10:34 PM
its put togther by wegner motorsports here in wisconsin. Its just something ive kinda wanted to see if I can achieve and I've had places tell me it is doable. But we will see when the time comes. I may go supercharger just because that whine does sound pretty b/a. pisnuoff, are you the one with a turbo v?

RyRidesMotoX
05-14-13, 11:50 PM
Man the compression ratio on a NA motor with 700whp and limited cubes like that is gonna be rough. Its only 6.2L so you are looking at well over 100whp/liter... Going with forced induction would be a lot easier since it would raise the volumetric efficiency of the motor. Nascars put down a lot of power with a carbed V8 but that is also really high in the rpm range. 700whp may not be very street friendly naturally aspirated. You would have to spin that thing pretty darn quick I think. Keep us posted on the build that would be pretty damn sweet.

PISNUOFF
05-15-13, 08:43 AM
$50k, 700 rwHp on Sunoco race fuel and only lasting 500 miles.

carlson_mn
05-15-13, 09:29 AM
I know, actually work in a internet department so take everything with a grain of salt. Im glad it was exhaust rattle as well. I mean, yeah I want the engine to last but actually trying to keep it togther just for the summer cuz next winter its going to a local dyno shop hopefully if all goes as planned. I want to put a L92 aluminum Block, 4340 forged Crank and rods, custom forged pistons, plasma moly rings, valley tray, rod and main bearings in. Its a whole new setup that should proudce about 600 to the flywheel. Because I do eventually want to make it a 700hp to the wheels naturally aspirated machine. But hey, gotta start somewhere. Not clamming to know it all or anything for that matter. Just know what I want haha.

I'll say what everyone else will think and that is to stop that dream and be realistic about a 500hp built engine that runs on street gas or go after a turbo build if you want 700hp.

PISNUOFF
05-15-13, 04:26 PM
I'll say what everyone else will think and that is to stop that dream and be realistic about a 500hp built engine that runs on street gas or go after a turbo build if you want 700hp.

^^^^this.

My car most recently had a 418 LS3 stroker. Building something else right now.

thebigjimsho
05-15-13, 08:43 PM
I know, actually work in a internet department so take everything with a grain of salt. Im glad it was exhaust rattle as well. I mean, yeah I want the engine to last but actually trying to keep it togther just for the summer cuz next winter its going to a local dyno shop hopefully if all goes as planned. I want to put a L92 aluminum Block, 4340 forged Crank and rods, custom forged pistons, plasma moly rings, valley tray, rod and main bearings in. Its a whole new setup that should proudce about 600 to the flywheel. Because I do eventually want to make it a 700hp to the wheels naturally aspirated machine. But hey, gotta start somewhere. Not clamming to know it all or anything for that matter. Just know what I want haha.

Will you run that on 87 octane?

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