: 1983 deville 4.1L transmission issues



caddy1983
05-11-13, 02:24 AM
replaced tcc solenoid and 4th gear pressure switch. can someone please help me here. At times car stumbles when I'm coming to a stop from cruising speed. any ideas? when it hits second and starts jerking. feels like a manual transmission if you dont
give enough gas when letting clutch out. also engine seems to bog down and I can hear the valves pinging. other than this
the tranny feels fine. I posted an issue a few months ago about my tcc solenoid. now that its been replaced im getting these symtoms. The car has 243000 original miles and runs great. car has been in the family since new. Car has been well
maintained. I will be scanning this tomorrow to see if any codes come up. I found info. on line that I may have to reflash the pcm to its factory settings. Is this correct info. Can I just disconnect the battery to see if it resets on its own. Ant help will
be appreciated.

cadillac_al
05-11-13, 10:52 AM
That jerking in 2nd gear sounds similar to FWD Buick 3.8's that have bad plug wires or EGR issues. How long since the last ignition tune up? Does the 4.1 have EGR tubes under the throttle body that need to be cleaned?

Do you think the TV cable has ever been touched? When I had a Olds 98 with 200r4 trans I could never ever get the TV cable adjusted right. That was 20 years ago and I was just figuring them out.

It does seem related to the tc lockup too but I don't have any ideas on that at the moment. Hopefully some code will come up to point you in the right direction. It could be vacuum or MAP related too.

The Ape Man
05-11-13, 11:35 AM
I suggest probing the lockup solenoid voltage supply while test driving. The pinout and procedure is contained in the shop manual.

caddy1983
05-11-13, 03:19 PM
recently tuned up and replaced egr about 2 years ago with oem parts. replaced due to smog check. before i replaced the tcc solenoid, i had the
tcc solenoid
connector disconnected from the outside of the tranny because i knew i had a bad tcc solenoid. i did not experience this problem with the
connector disconnected. tranny running
fine but my highway rpm where a bit high. this was not a problem because i would cruise on the freeway going about 60mph. now with the tcc
solenoid replaced I can go 80mph without feeling my tranny in high rpm's. but now i have this problem when i decrease my speed to about 25mph.
this is when i feel my car bogging and the pinging noise ocurring. what I do here is give it some gas to increase my speed to 30-35mph and the
bogging and
pinging stop and my car runs great. what can be causing this issue?

carnut
05-12-13, 07:40 PM
Drive the car on the freeway and enable the diagnostics thru the OFF and Warmer buttons. At speeds above 60 MPH the orange icon will light up above the word AUTO on the display panel if voltage is getting to the TCC solenoid. Slightly depressing the brake pedal should turn off the orange icon. If it does not, then you have a wiring issue thru the brake lamp switch wiring. If the icon stays lit, the solenoid never disengages thus the chuggle, jerk, knocking coming to a stop. Do your brake lights work? if that switch is faulty, then the TCC might not get the signal to disengage. Its a very simple system. Voltage is always present at the connector to the TCC with engine running. Once the computer sees the right engine temperature and engine RPM among other things, it supplies a ground signal to the TCC harness, thereby completing the TCC circuit locking the torque converter. When you step on the brake pedal, that ground circuit is interrupted.

caddy1983
05-13-13, 11:58 PM
I will try that technique. My brake lights do work. I had the brake light go on one or two times before but never thought this might be a problem.
Brake light doesn't come on only a couple of times. I replaced my power booster and my brake cylinder a few years ago. How do you reset the computer without disconnecting the battery. Or how do you reflash the computer to factory specs?

carnut
05-15-13, 03:16 PM
There is no "reflashing" disconnecting the battery simply erases any codes stored. The brake warning light can come on if the fluid's low or if the belt driven vacuum pump is weak. Report back after you've been in diagnostics and tell us if the AUTO button lights up above 60 with light throttle.