: oil loadup at idle

05-06-13, 11:22 AM
Hello Everyone, As the title indicates my N* loads up and puffs out annoying oil smoke. It appears to be #5 because all other plugs are clean.I have had friends follow me to observe the consumption also i let one trustworthy friend drive it so I could observe. I've read the sticky on GM ring cleaning technique wow! I thought about pulling the plug, finding bottom of stroke and using a full cylinder of kerosene soak all day, syphon out with low air and 3/16 th hose. then change oil? does anyone see future complications with this? You Guys (and you know who you are,and thank for being outright with your beliefs) dont ride me out on a rail, but I have even cosidered one of these snake oils...zmax..rislone ring seal...and yes,even the slick 5-0! I want to fix the problem before A/C weather. The return should be open because of a GM dealer repair about 25k ago. I dont baby this N* but it rarly see's a road trip but it experiences a 4500 rpm entry ramp and interstate merge daily, ok maybe 4000 and thats not until engine temps at running temp, then its about 1,500-2000 max at 65-70 mph and I do open it up when i think I can get away with it. I dont consider that abusive. thanks Ed
ps fun thoughts, I have been buying parts for about four weeks and getting ready to have an interact with my car-day soon! struts, brakes and rotors front and back, cv axles r-l, front hubs, outer tie-rods and rear air shocks..OK, maybe a week end! should feel like Im drivin a cadillac! Oh yah ,I am

05-06-13, 01:41 PM
Go up to the top black bar ^^^ and study the entire Cadillac Technical Archive, especially the articles on Northstar oil consumption and "Occasional full throttle operation is good ............." Various additives wil do exactly nothing for your engine - except maybe lighten your wallet. Read your owner's manual for Cadillac advice on using additives.

Google "cadillac forums northstar piston ring cleaning procedure".

05-06-13, 09:28 PM
Your kerosene procedure is about the same as GM's ring cleaning procedure except that you are using a different solution. I see no problem with it. Whether or not it works is yet to be seen, Keep us updated.

I wouldn't waste the time or the money on the snake oils. If the ring soak doesn't help, that crap surely won't.

Since you have narrowed it down to #5 I think it's a pretty safe bet that it is either rings or an intake valve seal.

Doesn't sound like you are babying it, but follow Sub's advice and give it a proper WOT a few times and see that doesn't help. Just beat the hell out of it and drive it like you stole it, you can't hurt it.

05-07-13, 02:52 PM
Thanks Guys,,
hey Ranger can you think of a better solvent to use than kerosene? If I get something out of the cylinder or its real dirty Im going to add some again until it comes out clean, or close to it, then squirt alittle oil in , put a plug in ,change oil, find some road where 3rd gear is about the 2500 rpm range (low torque medium rpm) about 20 miles? then normal.
Does that sound about right?
I will report my findings...Ed

interesting that gm says if the rings are shot to put in this newer style which has a stiffer form to seat to the cylinder! sounds like an invitation to future wall damage...im just sayin'

05-07-13, 08:48 PM
I think GM uses (or used) Techron. Many solvents will dissolve carbon. Ever notice what simply spraying Gumout, TB cleaner or Brakleen on a carboned throttle plate does to it? That said, I would guess that kerosene should do a pretty good job.

Manic Mechanic
05-07-13, 09:57 PM
Have you found low compression on #5? Stuck rings usually have low compression and a idle misfire condition and you haven't mentioned any of that. Make sure oil is not traveling up your PCV plumbing and making it's way to #5. Also the intake can be removed and put back in under an hour for the first timer. If you pull it up strait and then see oil on the #5 valve stem you probably have a bad seal in the top of the head. Just some other reasons for one cylinder to burn oil.

Anyways if you search my posts with ring in the search you'll find my experience with this procedure. I tried OTC fuel injector cleaner and Mopar EGR cleaner before breaking down and buying the GM Ring Cleaner chemical. The GM stuff worked the best. Important in the TSB is the fact that you are attempting to soften the deposits then blow/burn them off. If you soften the deposits and then let it sit and or dry out the deposits can reform worse than before by packing tighter and thicker. So let it soak for as long as it takes to get them soft then reinstall the plug and go out and make WOT runs. The more I did this the better the engine ran and the higher the compression regained.


05-09-13, 03:30 PM
Vernon, did you change the oil before driving? If I may ask, how much did the whole ring cleaning kit cost ? Did it come with all of the mentioned parts/tools to do the job ( you know the parts with GM numbers) not the compressor? thanks for your imput..Ed

05-09-13, 03:41 PM
the GM solution is not techron ... it is a concentrated formula of unknown composition

GM# 88861802

that's for a whole bottle but you'll only need a ounce or two if you follow the procedure GM wants you to use


the old top engine cleaner was much like seafoam but the EPA put the kabosh on that procedure a few years back

Manic Mechanic
05-10-13, 12:53 PM
I changed the oil before it left my care, but since most of it was sucked back out when doing the repetitive procedures on the Deville I did test drives without changing the oil between them. It also holds a lot of oil so dillution isn't as critical as when I did it on a '92 Sunbird that my wife delivers mail in. On that one most of it went past the rings so I changed it immediately. I also only did the 'bird once. Almost 2 years later and the Sunbird still has good compression on the previously weak hole. I did have to change the head gasket a few months ago but that has nothing to do with the ring seal. The Deville was still good until my customer sold it to an unknown party about four months ago.

If your going to do all cylinders (8) get two cans. Seems like they were over $23 each wholesale. The part number is just a can, about a liter, of a pourable liquid. Don't get too caught up in the fancy dealer tools to inject it. A measuring container of some sort and a turkey baster or similar will get the job done. Just make sure you have some sort of suction device with tubing to remove it after sitting as it is pretty caustic and you wouldn't want to crank the engine with it spraying everywhere. Have plenty of disposable rags to cover the holes etc.