: Mod progression/route? (for track/street)



mackey
04-25-13, 04:30 PM
Looking for some direction on slowly increasing the handling on my daily but don't want to go overboard that it becomes undrivable under normal street conditions (typical city bumpy rutted roads, etc). I have no real plans on adding power but that's not out of the question. No plans on drag racing so the most I'm looking at is possibly an axle upgrade to reduce wheelhop and not a 8.8/9 conversion. Key thing I want is better handling and braking and in the next year or so, go to some track schools/days.

Little background: Car: 05 36K mi. Katech shifter, CAGS delete, SRP pedals. Me: Been to the track and club raced motorcycles for roughly 5-6yrs on a (somewhat) competitive level finishing top 10 in my class regularly so the tracks I'm planning on going to, I am already familiar with.

These are the parts I plan to go with but still in research phase and it'll be an as funds allow build. Not looking to do all these prior to going to the track

Sways? Addco?
Suspension? KW V3? *bought V3*
Brakes (pad/rotor)?
Wheels/Tires (sizes)?
Bushings? Revshift?
Radiator/tstat upgrade? Alradco/? ?
P/S or Oil cooler?
Axles? gforce?
Anything else?

I'm not really a "car guy" so I'm betting I forgot something or just don't know about it but ask me almost anything on motorcycles and how to make them perform better in different ways and I can talk for days.

FuzzyLogic
04-25-13, 04:55 PM
Your first steps should be aimed at replacing the three weak points of the V1:

1. Stock clutch and shifter slop
2. Drivetrain mounts and subframe bushings
3. High center of gravity and mediocre suspension

You already have the Katech shifter (which I have too), but there are a plethora of additional shifter linkage mods (beyond the basic Creative Steel / UUC bushings) that will further shore up the shifter's performance. You're going to need to source the necessary parts from a couple of different places, including Brian (PISNUOFF) and Home Depot. Read through this thread on LS1Tech (http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1517800-b-m-shifter.html), paying special attention to Cadzilla's posts and pictures.

The second thing that you need to upgrade is the stock clutch. The easiest and cheapest route is to pick up an LS7 clutch kit from F1 Racing on eBay ($550-650, depending on your power needs), but you'll also want to procure a remote bleeder line and a Motive Power Bleeder to allow you to quickly and effectively bleed your clutch periodically. If you're planning on a major motor/blower upgrade in the future, or you just want a nicer twin-disc clutch, consider the McLeod RST (organic) or RXT (ceramic).

As far as bushings and mounts go, Revshift is your one stop shop. Get the Revshift 80A (blue) motor mounts, the Revshift transmission insert (only one hardness offered--80A), and their red (95A) bushings for everything else--trailing arms, control arms, differential, and subframe.

When it comes to suspension upgrades, you have a surprisingly large number of options. From personal experience, I would immediately bite the bullet and buy a set of KW Variant 3's. They cost $1950 including shipping if you know where to shop. If you absolutely can't handle the price, you could try a set of d2/K-Sport coilovers ($900) or the Ground Control coilover kit ($500), but if you're an aggressive driver, you'll ultimately wind up upgrading to the KW V3s or LG Motorsports Penskes ($3000). In all three cases, plan on spending about $400 extra to buy adjustable end links (not PowerGrid ones--these (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Miata-99-05-NB8C-Adjustable-Stabilizer-Sway-bar-Swaybar-End-Links-set-of-4-/121093602509?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AMiata&hash=item1c31bdbccd&vxp=mtr)) and a stiffer set of springs.

With regards to sway bars, the no-brainer upgrade is the Hotchkis 2280 kit ($425). If you don't mind adding some weight, the solid-core Addco set is even stiffer, and slightly less expensive ($350), but it's three times as heavy.

mackey
04-25-13, 08:48 PM
I'll look into that thank you. The clutch seems solid but sloppy if that makes sense. I guess those additional bushing changes will cure much if not all of that sloppy feeling.

I didn't see the penske's available on the LGM site. out of production? I don't mind paying more for better suspension (i've had penske as well as ohlins) as that's the key to good handling and the biggest upgrades for bikes that most people don't take into account.

philistine
04-26-13, 12:10 AM
Dude you're considering Penskes??? Holy moly that's pure track stuff. A good street/track is what Fuzzy recommended KW V3. I use these on my fun cars and adjust the settings depending on the event - reset afterwards for daily driving.

Man, I learned something here, that is a excellent link to the shifter Fuzzy gave - I'm going to tear mine apart and rebuild.

rand49er
04-26-13, 09:03 AM
What's your budget? I ask because you could be in the poor house really quickly around here. Oh, you'd have a great handling car, but do you really want to be eating Mac 'n Cheese for the next five years?

mackey
04-26-13, 10:29 AM
having had a taste of good suspension in the past, penskes are not out of the question assuming theyre available. id rather buy once cry once if you know what i mean ;)

that being said, it wont be right away and i dont plan to do it all at once. ive raced so i definitely know what its like to be poor :) "the only way to make a small fortune in racing is start with a large fortune"

id rather throw money at suspension than say a S/C or motor work. not to say that may or may not happen after but suspension/handling first.

how easy/difficult is it setting the V3s from street to track and visa versa?

philistine
04-26-13, 05:24 PM
The fronts are easy, just pop the hood and insert the allen key and give it a turn to adjust the rebound. You have to pull the seats to get to the rears but same thing...just insert the allen and adjust. You can feel the clicks so just count. Adjusting the bump/compression, you have to pull a wheel off and adjust, just give small turns and you can see the numbers line up.

So...a full adjustment 1hr or less. I usually just adjust the rebound for the front and rear -15 minutes.

FuzzyLogic
04-26-13, 05:54 PM
The fronts are easy, just pop the hood and insert the allen key and give it a turn to adjust the rebound. You have to pull the seats to get to the rears but same thing...just insert the allen and adjust. You can feel the clicks so just count. Adjusting the bump/compression, you have to pull a wheel off and adjust, just give small turns and you can see the numbers line up.

So...a full adjustment 1hr or less. I usually just adjust the rebound for the front and rear -15 minutes.

That assumes that you removed the front shock tower strut.

philistine
04-26-13, 08:58 PM
That assumes that you removed the front shock tower strut.

You can remove the shock tower strut for a lot of things but...not for adjusting the front K-dubs.

Take a look at the picture. The purple thing is the allen tool. The thing in my hand is the cap I removed (1.2 second removal) to reveal the tip of the dampener. Give that purple thing a turn to get the setting you want.

http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/2013-04-26195022_zpsf83ffa73.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/2013-04-26195022_zpsf83ffa73.jpg.html)

FuzzyLogic
04-27-13, 06:24 AM
You can remove the shock tower strut for a lot of things but...not for adjusting the front K-dubs.

Take a look at the picture. The purple thing is the allen tool. The thing in my hand is the cap I removed (1.2 second removal) to reveal the tip of the dampener. Give that purple thing a turn to get the setting you want.

Ah. The 2004-2005 design doesn't cover up that cap. If you have a 2006-2007, you have to remove the shock tower to even see it.

UnsafeAtAnySpd
04-27-13, 12:02 PM
The LG Motorsports coilovers are still available you just have to call them. I'll post more of my own experiences when I get in front of an actual keyboard.

UnsafeAtAnySpd
04-27-13, 02:17 PM
I've been putting together a complete list of mods that I've done on my V which helps me in replying here. Often I forget which mods I have...



Little background: Car: 05 36K mi. Katech shifter, CAGS delete, SRP pedals. Me: Been to the track and club raced motorcycles for roughly 5-6yrs on a (somewhat) competitive level finishing top 10 in my class regularly so the tracks I'm planning on going to, I am already familiar with.

These are the parts I plan to go with but still in research phase and it'll be an as funds allow build. Not looking to do all these prior to going to the track

Sways? Addco?
Suspension? KW V3?
Brakes (pad/rotor)?
Wheels/Tires (sizes)?
Bushings? Revshift?
Radiator/tstat upgrade? Alradco/? ?
P/S or Oil cooler?
Axles? gforce?
Anything else?


Your car has significantly less miles that mine does now and even what it had when I started tracking it. That said, even with 30+ track days and 115 miles, many of the stock components were doing well. For the parts you've mentioned I've gone with the following:
Sways: Hotchkis (FuzzyLogic has a lot more first hand experience here though. I've only had these and stock and have yet to have them on the track yet)
Shocks/Springs: LG Motorsports (Beyond the nice Penske shocks and Hyperco springs, these have some nice features like the bearing upper and lower mounts, true coilover in the rear, etc. I have a few pictures in my thread over on LS1Tech)
Brakes: I have been running the UUC 2-piece rotors up front for quite a while and really liked them. At first with street tires I was using HP+ on the street and track with street tires, but then went to DTC-70s with R comps. Recently switched to HPS for the street though, since I didn't need a dual purpose pad. That said, I'm in the process of switching to the V2 setup. Probably with DTC-60s (track) and HPS (street) again.
Wheels/Tires: Team Dynamics track/Stock on the street. Tires, I've gone through quite a few different ones (V700, R6, etc). 275/35/18s fit on all four corners.
Bushings: I have the UUC engine/trans/shifter/diff as they were the only ones available for awhile. I've picked up the others from RevShift but don't have them installed yet. Regardless, cheap and should be a good mod.
Radiator: I have the Ron Davis unit. If you go this route, don't get the integrated oil cooler as it is unusable.
P/S: There's a good writeup around on how to throw an upgraded unit in the stock location. I have a pretty big Fluidyne unit. Do this mod as it is cheap and I used to boil the PS fluid everytime out on the track. Oil cooler is in the future for me. Check the stickied thread on some more info.
Axles: No personal experience. I'm going with the 9" kit (sitting on my bedroom floor, uninstalled)



Your first steps should be aimed at replacing the three weak points of the V1:

1. Stock clutch and shifter slop
2. Drivetrain mounts and subframe bushings
3. High center of gravity and mediocre suspension


Good info here. I have the Katech LS9 setup. Drives like stock, but is smoother and revs noticeably quicker.



Dude you're considering Penskes??? Holy moly that's pure track stuff. A good street/track is what Fuzzy recommended KW V3. I use these on my fun cars and adjust the settings depending on the event - reset afterwards for daily driving.

Man, I learned something here, that is a excellent link to the shifter Fuzzy gave - I'm going to tear mine apart and rebuild.

I haven't been able to drive on the Penskes much yet (still need to adjust ride height and get an allignment) but they ride great on the street.

philistine
04-27-13, 02:54 PM
.
P/S: There's a good writeup around on how to throw an upgraded unit in the stock location. I have a pretty big Fluidyne unit. Do this mod as it is cheap and I used to boil the PS fluid everytime out on the track.

Oh I have this problem! I carry a bottle of PS fluid with me to the track. Haven't researched that one but what is the ballpark cost?

UnsafeAtAnySpd
04-27-13, 03:35 PM
Oh I have this problem! I carry a bottle of PS fluid with me to the track. Haven't researched that one but what is the ballpark cost?

I want to say the unit I have was around $80 maybe even a bit less. The only added cost is refilling with the fluid of your choice (I use Amsoil). Better to do it sooner rather than later. I eventually had my PS pump go out. I also had to replace the rack, but I can't be positive that was related. Oh and I had to replace an alternator too. That was my own stupidity though. Drain the fluid before you replace a PS pump...

philistine
04-27-13, 05:22 PM
Regarding the KW V3...here is a link to the install I wrote up:

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0G2xJ3OiasoLUNkVnZ6OVRHcDQ/edit?usp=sharing

The installation is straight forward for the handy ones...this might give the OP a little more information on the product.

OneFast V
04-27-13, 05:45 PM
Where is the PS upgrade thread? I have never seen it? I need to jump on it if it as easy and cheap as you say.

UnsafeAtAnySpd
04-27-13, 06:09 PM
On the FAQ: http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/steeringcooler/index.html

I don't think that the part number mentioned is still available, but there are others that will work.

I would recommend this mod to anybody who may see track time. It's one of those mods that I forget that I have and thus forget to recommend it to people. Quick and easy using the FAQ procedure. I'll try to find the part number of the one I used.

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg149/UnsafeAtAnySpd/IMG_20110305_133512.jpg
Stock vs the Fluidyne. Once I finally get my grills powdercoated black, i'll probably rattle can the cooler black as well.

FuzzyLogic
04-27-13, 07:29 PM
How about the FHP-10029? It's the successor to the FHP-10026 mentioned in the FAQ. And it's slightly bigger (8.75" x 14" versus 6.5" x 14").

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Genuine-Fluidyne-EXTRA-Heavy-Duty-V8-Towing-RV-Automatic-Transmission-Cooler-New-/00/s/ODM2WDE2MDA=/$(KGrHqVHJBEFBbbnMVUVBR!DIEt)p!~~60_57.JPG

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fld-fhp-10029

Edit: they're selling it on eBay for $48 (I just sent in an offer for $45 including shipping--pending). Noice!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Fluidyne-EXTRA-Heavy-Duty-V8-Towing-RV-Automatic-Transmission-Cooler-New-/221181198718?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337f6d417e&vxp=mtr

----------

Bam! Best Offer accepted. $44.95 shipped!

UnsafeAtAnySpd
04-27-13, 09:03 PM
^That might be the same one I have just black. Nice purchase either way. Quick, cheap and effective upgrade.

Sorry for the thread jack btw. :)

mackey
04-27-13, 11:48 PM
very cool, thanks appreciate the feedback and tips.

i'll probably be doing the same mod myself :)

odla
04-28-13, 12:44 AM
Just bought the eBay one for the same price. Ill be doing this when i get the time. Great price that i just couldn't pass up.

philistine
04-28-13, 07:40 PM
^That might be the same one I have just black. Nice purchase either way. Quick, cheap and effective upgrade.

Sorry for the thread jack btw. :)

Pulled the trigger on this myself...

darkman
04-29-13, 07:05 AM
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-general/176091-power-steering-cooler.html#post1958019

AAIIIC
04-29-13, 08:47 AM
Adjusting the bump/compression, you have to pull a wheel off and adjust, just give small turns and you can see the numbers line up.
What's this "numbers line up" you mention? On mine there's just a slot at the bottom of the housing that you stick the adjustment tool into. No numbers to look at.

And where did you get the handy little tool for the rebound adjustment up top? Did that come from KW? I just got a plain ol' allen wrench with mine.

Manofmetal01
04-29-13, 11:54 AM
What's this "numbers line up" you mention? On mine there's just a slot at the bottom of the housing that you stick the adjustment tool into. No numbers to look at.

And where did you get the handy little tool for the rebound adjustment up top? Did that come from KW? I just got a plain ol' allen wrench with mine.

The top of the purple tool has numbers which I think is what he is refering to. I believe the tool is an updated kit. Mine came with it as well, it is still just an allen key but with a fancy handle.

philistine
04-29-13, 12:09 PM
What's this "numbers line up" you mention? On mine there's just a slot at the bottom of the housing that you stick the adjustment tool into. No numbers to look at.

Same slot at the bottom but I guess the newer ones have numbers for indexing - I have 2 sets of KW V3's and both have this feature.


And where did you get the handy little tool for the rebound adjustment up top? Did that come from KW? I just got a plain ol' allen wrench with mine.

Yep it came with the kit! You can probably call KW main office and get it shipped free. I had them ship a couple of collars when mine broke and they were very easy to deal with...expedited shipping too (free)!

odla
04-29-13, 01:54 PM
Can you get the amsoil from a local parts store?

mackey
05-02-13, 12:04 AM
Can you get the amsoil from a local parts store?http://www.amsoil.com/locator/index.aspx

unless its a "race" shop, i havent seen amsoil being sold. for instance, im not sure youd find it @ an o reillys, advance auto, or pep boys.

----------


plan on spending about $400 extra to buy adjustable end links (not PowerGrid ones--these (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Miata-99-05-NB8C-Adjustable-Stabilizer-Sway-bar-Swaybar-End-Links-set-of-4-/121093602509?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AMiata&hash=item1c31bdbccd&vxp=mtr)) and a stiffer set of springs. these are the ones to get? or just the type to get?

nevermind, saw your post in ls1tech. thanks

http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1601468-cheaper-alternative-powergrid-end-links.html

odla
05-02-13, 01:43 PM
Thanks

AAIIIC
05-02-13, 02:22 PM
Yep it came with the kit! You can probably call KW main office and get it shipped free. I had them ship a couple of collars when mine broke and they were very easy to deal with...expedited shipping too (free)!
Cool, I'll have get in touch with them. Did you just contact them through their contact info here - http://www.kw-suspension.com/us/kw_contact.php?


these are the ones to get? or just the type to get?

nevermind, saw your post in ls1tech. thanks

http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1601468-cheaper-alternative-powergrid-end-links.html
Interesting, it appears the forum is disabling (some) external links. Fuzzy's post originally had the word "these" hotlinked to something, but now that hotlink is gone. And the ebay link in Fuzzy's post about the PS cooler is also no longer a link.

philistine
05-02-13, 02:42 PM
Cool, I'll have get in touch with them. Did you just contact them through their contact info here - http://www.kw-suspension.com/us/kw_contact.php?

Pretty much but here is the guy I contact:
Brent Estrada
Technical Advisor
1.559.875.0222 ext. 145
brent.estrada@KWautomotive.com



Interesting, it appears the forum is disabling (some) external links. Fuzzy's post originally had the word "these" hotlinked to something, but now that hotlink is gone. And the ebay link in Fuzzy's post about the PS cooler is also no longer a link.

I don't have the link but the seller (ebay) is as follows:
tmvtaylor
FHP-10029 - listed as Automatic transmission cooler

thebigjimsho
05-02-13, 06:55 PM
http://www.amsoil.com/locator/index.aspx

unless its a "race" shop, i havent seen amsoil being sold. for instance, im not sure youd find it @ an o reillys, advance auto, or pep boys.

----------

these are the ones to get? or just the type to get?

nevermind, saw your post in ls1tech. thanks

http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1601468-cheaper-alternative-powergrid-end-links.html

The NAPA down the road from Brainerd, in MN, has a full array of Amsoil products...

mackey
05-03-13, 10:20 AM
may have something to do with being in reasonably close proximity to a racetrack? :)

thebigjimsho
05-03-13, 05:43 PM
hmm...

----------

What it does say, though, is that it is possible for large auto parts chains to carry it...

OneFast V
05-04-13, 12:27 AM
http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-B7iuXo4zGUc/UYSNOvB7kgI/AAAAAAAAAmw/7e0gdbQLUvQ/w901-h539/2013-05-03

Got mine in, install was simple but due to the HEX coolant tank i had to mount it opposite of the FAQ

mackey
05-05-13, 01:48 AM
one piece of the puzzle purchased. did the intial baseline ride height adjustment per philistine's how-to thread (http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-performance/267089-kw-install-2004-cts-v.html) and going with something conservative (12.5"f/1.5"r). unless there's a big performance benefit to go lower, it'd still be primarily a street car and i'm not one for scraping my undercarriage going over potholes.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v22/stingray/CTS-V/CA4397C9-9C48-41C8-8F0F-619C54E2C84F-1063-00000040B09E4847.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/stingray/media/CTS-V/CA4397C9-9C48-41C8-8F0F-619C54E2C84F-1063-00000040B09E4847.jpg.html)

Manofmetal01
05-05-13, 07:37 AM
I currently have my fronts at the lowest recommended setting (300mm) which I think im going to raise just a bit as I scrape the rubber skirt under the bumper getting in and out of my driveway. The rears I have set at about 26mm I believe. No issues scraping headers or anything under the car driving around but im sure to avoid known problematic areas.

liqidvenom
05-05-13, 12:53 PM
Your first steps should be aimed at replacing the three weak points of the V1:

1. Stock clutch and shifter slop
2. Drivetrain mounts and subframe bushings
3. High center of gravity and mediocre suspension

You already have the Katech shifter (which I have too), but there are a plethora of additional shifter linkage mods (beyond the basic Creative Steel / UUC bushings) that will further shore up the shifter's performance. You're going to need to source the necessary parts from a couple of different places, including Brian (PISNUOFF) and Home Depot. Read through this thread on LS1Tech (http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1517800-b-m-shifter.html), paying special attention to Cadzilla's posts and pictures.

The second thing that you need to upgrade is the stock clutch. The easiest and cheapest route is to pick up an LS7 clutch kit from F1 Racing on eBay ($550-650, depending on your power needs), but you'll also want to procure a remote bleeder line and a Motive Power Bleeder to allow you to quickly and effectively bleed your clutch periodically. If you're planning on a major motor/blower upgrade in the future, or you just want a nicer twin-disc clutch, consider the McLeod RST (organic) or RXT (ceramic).

As far as bushings and mounts go, Revshift is your one stop shop. Get the Revshift 80A (blue) motor mounts, the Revshift transmission insert (only one hardness offered--80A), and their red (95A) bushings for everything else--trailing arms, control arms, differential, and subframe.

When it comes to suspension upgrades, you have a surprisingly large number of options. From personal experience, I would immediately bite the bullet and buy a set of KW Variant 3's. They cost $1950 including shipping if you know where to shop. If you absolutely can't handle the price, you could try a set of d2/K-Sport coilovers ($900) or the Ground Control coilover kit ($500), but if you're an aggressive driver, you'll ultimately wind up upgrading to the KW V3s or LG Motorsports Penskes ($3000). In all three cases, plan on spending about $400 extra to buy adjustable end links (not PowerGrid ones--these (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Miata-99-05-NB8C-Adjustable-Stabilizer-Sway-bar-Swaybar-End-Links-set-of-4-/121093602509?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AMiata&hash=item1c31bdbccd&vxp=mtr)) and a stiffer set of springs.

With regards to sway bars, the no-brainer upgrade is the Hotchkis 2280 kit ($425). If you don't mind adding some weight, the solid-core Addco set is even stiffer, and slightly less expensive ($350), but it's three times as heavy. I just got the lg setup, how far did you cut down the miata end links?

FuzzyLogic
05-05-13, 06:28 PM
I just got the lg setup, how far did you cut down the miata end links?

Pretty far. Check out the pictures below--the last one shows how many threads I'd have to unscrew it to match the stock rear end link.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/QuicksilverG4/DSC00484_zps92c2569a.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/QuicksilverG4/DSC00490_zps6de1ee3e.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/QuicksilverG4/DSC00491_zpscb08118b.jpg

mackey
05-05-13, 11:58 PM
will be doing the suspension swap this coming weekend. i'll hold off on the hotchkis sways for now. i like to feel each upgrade vs throwing them on all at once.

ordered the adj. miata end links. if i keep with a conservative set up and not drop it low, will i need them? guess we'll find out.

Andringa
05-06-13, 11:47 AM
Hey Fuzzy,

Did you ever get your KWV3 installed? Or figure out if the Addco bars are going to fit with the KW?

FuzzyLogic
05-06-13, 12:07 PM
Hey Fuzzy,

Did you ever get your KWV3 installed? Or figure out if the Addco bars are going to fit with the KW?

Working on it right now.

mackey
05-09-13, 08:09 PM
end links have arrived.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v22/stingray/CTS-V/BD4937D1-72D3-4446-B244-6802ECD811F2-10016-000008FECFEAAD79.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/stingray/media/CTS-V/BD4937D1-72D3-4446-B244-6802ECD811F2-10016-000008FECFEAAD79.jpg.html)

mackey
05-20-13, 11:06 AM
installed the KWs and the end links. now theres a clunking at low speed when rolling over potholes, dips, etc. dont hear or feel it with faster speeds. almost feels like something is loose but everything is torqued to spec (confirmed this past weekend).

KWs? end links?

initial impressions are good on ride feel. stiffer yet still compliant. less bodyroll. havent tried putting it through its paces yet till the clunking is resolved.

FuzzyLogic
05-20-13, 01:43 PM
installed the KWs and the end links. now theres a clunking at low speed when rolling over potholes, dips, etc. dont hear or feel it with faster speeds. almost feels like something is loose but everything is torqued to spec (confirmed this past weekend).

KWs? end links?

initial impressions are good on ride feel. stiffer yet still compliant. less bodyroll. havent tried putting it through its paces yet till the clunking is resolved.

There are so many different things that it could be. You need to narrow down the suspects. Is it coming from the back or the front? One side or the other? Does it happen when you corner? Does it happen when you hit bumps with both wheels? What about when you hit a bump with one wheel?

JFensty
05-20-13, 04:49 PM
My first guess is sway bar bushings, or the collars.

FuzzyLogic
05-21-13, 02:16 AM
My first guess is sway bar bushings, or the collars.

My first thought was that he might've failed to sufficiently torque the shock top nuts with the wheels down.

liqidvenom
05-21-13, 04:08 AM
Fuzzy i was puttin on my LG's and my stock 100k mile end link came apart in my hand...i just ordered a set of the Miata ones you mentioned

OneFast V
05-21-13, 09:58 AM
P/S: There's a good writeup around on how to throw an upgraded unit in the stock location. I have a pretty big Fluidyne unit. Do this mod as it is cheap and I used to boil the PS fluid everytime out on the track. Oil cooler is in the future for me. Check the stickied thread on some more info.
Axles: No personal experience. I'm going with the 9" kit (sitting on my bedroom floor, uninstalled)

Your inbox is full tried to PM you! Anyways I figured I would ask how much track time you have on the PS cooler? Mine exploded after 4 HPDE sessions at Laguna Seca on Sunday. I'm concern this cooler really may not be adequate, either that or I got a faulty one.

Andringa
05-21-13, 10:29 AM
Your inbox is full tried to PM you! Anyways I figured I would ask how much track time you have on the PS cooler? Mine exploded after 4 HPDE sessions at Laguna Seca on Sunday. I'm concern this cooler really may not be adequate, either that or I got a faulty one.

Do you have pictures of how it failed.

Anybody have any idea what kind of pressures the Power Steering system can generate?

darkman
05-21-13, 11:05 AM
The power steering pump specification in the Service Manual (pressure relief) is 1,640 to 1,740 psi.

OneFast V
05-21-13, 11:10 AM
Do you have pictures of how it failed.

Anybody have any idea what kind of pressures the Power Steering system can generate?

Its not visible but you can just see the bottom portion of the cooler drenched in PS fluid as well as the underside of my car. There is no fluid anywhere upstream of the cooler either.


I will probably be switching to a cooler like this:
http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/200/259/259-13212.jpg

darkman
05-21-13, 11:18 AM
I cannot imagine the PS system is carrying 1700psi. That seems extremely high

Well that is the specification. Since it is the "relief" spec it likely contemplates "spikes." For the purposes intended here, I suspect all we really need to know is that power steering systems operate with at pounds of pressure in the hundreds and therefore, are high-pressure as opposed to low pressure systems.

Finally, the pressure ratings are at the output side of the pump (pressurized-line) and not at the return-line side where the pressure would presumably be substantially reduced.

OneFast V
05-21-13, 12:23 PM
Well that is the specification. Since it is the "relief" spec it likely contemplates "spikes." For the purposes intended here, I suspect all we really need to know is that power steering systems operate with at pounds of pressure in the hundreds and therefore, are high-pressure as opposed to low pressure systems.

Finally, the pressure ratings are at the output side of the pump (pressurized-line) and not at the return-line side where the pressure would presumably be substantially reduced.

I guess I'm just suprised this system runs at such high pressures. Knowing this now I don't think the faq recommended cooler is adequate for such pressures which is likely why I had an issue.

odla
05-21-13, 01:25 PM
I thought that others had tracked their car with the one in the faq. No? I will be holding off on this now. Thanks onefastv.

OneFast V
05-21-13, 01:34 PM
I thought that others had tracked their car with the one in the faq. No? I will be holding off on this now. Thanks onefastv.

That's what I am trying to find out. It may just be a one off failure but I haven't heard anyone else's track experience with it.

AAIIIC
05-21-13, 06:55 PM
The PS cooler should basically be at ambient, since it's in the return line to the reservoir and the reservoir is vented to atmosphere.

I, too, would be interested in seeing pics of the failed cooler, but I have to think it was just a faulty cooler. There are tons of OEM PS coolers on all sorts of vehicles and none of them are anything special / heavy duty.

OneFast V
05-21-13, 07:30 PM
Is the hose routing on the power steering important? I would not think so but wanted to confirm.

nikdsctsv
05-21-13, 07:33 PM
Yup! Waitin for pics before i do this to my V!

OneFast V
05-21-13, 08:23 PM
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KQ_bFwljiMg/UZwPYyPb5cI/AAAAAAAAAtc/d5dbtdU7Wug/w958-h573-no/2013-05-21

Here is what the cooler looks like now. you can see the area where oil has soaked the cooler but there is no apparent gross leak, it is definitely a fine leak.

FuzzyLogic
05-21-13, 08:44 PM
I'll be installing my FHP-10029 this weekend. If anything weird happens, I'll let you know.

Junior1
05-21-13, 08:45 PM
Is that the fluidyne clone being sold on ebay? If so, maybe thats why its $30 less than summit racing...

OneFast V
05-21-13, 08:54 PM
Is that the fluidyne clone being sold on ebay? If so, maybe thats why its $30 less than summit racing...

It is. Same one Fuzzy found on Ebay. uses and/or references the same part #. Also it worked fine on the street for the 2 weeks it was installed prior to the track day.

Junior1
05-21-13, 09:11 PM
I've got one collecting dust in the garage, never got around to installing nor returning it for that matter.
It was thrown in a box with no other markings except for a gold "Made in Taiwan" sticker.
From what I gather Fluidyne used to make them in CA but now outsource some stuff to possibly Taiwan/China. In any event I wasn't comfortable not seeing it packaged in a Fluidyne box at least and the Made in Taiwan thing just made me throw it to the side...

nikdsctsv
05-21-13, 09:58 PM
Welk lets not be too hasty. Can you not start the car and see the leak? It looks to me like it was leaking from around the hose clamps. Maybe use a better clamp? Or possibly two clamps? It would be nice to know exactly where it is leaking from first.

philistine
05-21-13, 10:40 PM
It is. Same one Fuzzy found on Ebay. uses and/or references the same part #. Also it worked fine on the street for the 2 weeks it was installed prior to the track day.

I also bought it but haven't installed it yet. It is stamped Thermal Dynamics International with a U.S. patent number 5,881,803, made in Taiwan gold sticker. I emailed the company and gave the link to the ebay product for confirmation on their disclaimer about it being a genuine Fluidyne oil cooler. I'll share the results. I don't plan to install it until I decide what clutch to install - I like tearing my car apart for multiple mods/upgrades.

OneFast V
05-22-13, 12:46 AM
Welk lets not be too hasty. Can you not start the car and see the leak? It looks to me like it was leaking from around the hose clamps. Maybe use a better clamp? Or possibly two clamps? It would be nice to know exactly where it is leaking from first.

I can tell you it is definitely not leaking from the hose connections those things are on very tight. I believe it is somewhere where all the cooler lines funnel back into one line.

AAIIIC
05-22-13, 07:56 AM
Interesting. It looks like where the tubes all come together (and I imagine are brazed together) it's pissing out.

odla
05-23-13, 12:21 AM
Have you checked on warranty? Hopefully its just a fluke.

OneFast V
05-23-13, 10:00 AM
Have you checked on warranty? Hopefully its just a fluke.

Ya, he said if i pay to ship it to him and they find that its defective, then they will replace it. I just bought derale cooler that's basically like the OEM style but a 4 pass and use that instead as i trust it more.

http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/200/259/259-13212.jpg

UnsafeAtAnySpd
05-23-13, 10:29 AM
If I recall correctly, my cooler came in an actual Fluidyne box.

liqidvenom
05-24-13, 03:54 AM
fuzzy, i just got my end links a few hours ago. do yo need to cut these down to get the full benefit from them and also how far? that looks like an 1-2" you cut them down from the picture.

FuzzyLogic
05-24-13, 11:22 AM
fuzzy, i just got my end links a few hours ago. do yo need to cut these down to get the full benefit from them and also how far? that looks like an 1-2" you cut them down from the picture.

Ideally, they need to be adjusted such that, when your wheels are on the ground, they are dead vertical.

I can't give you a more detailed answer than that because I don't know how low or high your V is riding. For me, that required cutting the square ends off the end links and shortening the threaded bolt slightly.

mackey
07-17-13, 12:57 PM
for me @ 14" (1" drop from stock), measured from fender lip to center axle/wheel hub, adj. links are maxed out @ shortest length with preload on the sways. if you want no preload, you'll have to shave/cut them slightly depending how much you're dropped.