: Drilling and Tapping The Northstar V8......my personal experience so far.



98eldo32v
04-25-13, 06:29 AM
I was going to post this in Eldorado_Red's thread "97 ETC Headgasket Project" but I decided if someone just wanted to reference just this part, I should make a separate thread.

This is just my opinion and experience so far and nothing more. I'm not being bias or taking side, these are just my personal conclusions.

Once you have decided to remove the engine by whichever method of your liking, you'll eventually come to the crossroad of drilling and tapping the block for repair. Eldorado_Red's and my personal choice is for studs.

I suppose the inserts have to be drilled also, so some of this may apply but since I've been drilling for the studs I'm a bit more familiar in that area that the inserts.

Things you WILL need:

Cutting Fluid......Motor oil or Trans Fluid. I used trans fluid.

Drill with side handle...Mandatory 1/2" variable speed reversible

Drill Bits...... High strength for cutting metal. 1/2 and 17/32.


I have Northstar Performance's Stud kit with it's first design stud plate. The second design "X" plate looks a lot more user friendly, but that could be just "eye" appeal.

Eldorado_Red chose Carroll Custom Cadillac studs. CCC's items came out a bit cheaper for Red, but was missing drills bits, thread locker and the tap. I suppose those items can be sourced rather easily, but I happen to be a one stop shopper so my kit came with those items.


Eldorado_Red and I started to compare the head studs.

I happen to have the "shiny chrome" version of the Northstar Performance head studs. When comparing the studs, (no matter who's version), there is no comparison to the oem head bolt. One thing I did note on CCC's stud was the allen head key dimple on top of each stud to help speed up installation.

The tap needed seems to be the same for either kit, but CCC's kit calls for a bottom tap at one point in the info on the website, but states it my not be necessary in one of the videos.

The tap needed will be 5/8-11 high strength steel. The starter tap has a taper to it to align itself into the hole. The bottom tap, lacks the taper and cuts immediately.

More on that when we cross that bridge.....

DRILLING........

Here's where the fun began......

My personal opinion..........

Tape off the block with DUCT TAPE. The duct tape is more durable, and "forgivable" heaven forbid you start drilling and the drill "jumps" on you. You want to protect the deck surface of the block from any potential harm.

Take the duct tape and cover the deck surface of the block including the holes to be drilled out. Once the deck is completely covered with the duct tape, smooth the duct tape on the deck to make sure the tape sticks to the deck. (Pre cleaning the deck surface before taping is a good idea if not done so already).

Find the head bolt holes with your fingers by running them across the duct tape. The head bolt holes will leave dimples in the duct tape. You will use a single edge razor blade or x-acto knife and cut the dimples out in a circular motion by sticking the edge of the blade into the lip of the hole and trimming away the duct tape. You may need a small flatblade screwdriver to assist in removal of the dimple of tape from the head bolt hole. Do this to all the head bolt holes to be drilled out. Once the holes are exposed you are ready for drilling.

I was a bit skeptical if the holes could be drilled without a guide plate, at this point I can say yes. Yet, the reason for that, I happen to have a bit more experience with these sort of things, but if one were to feel uncomfortable I would advise using some sort of guideplate.

Even with my experience, you still had to get a "feel" on how to drill these holes out.

1. Load the drill with the 1/2 drill bit. Make sure it's TIGHT.
2. DIP the drill bit into the trans fluid/motor oil. You may want to pour a little in the hole to be drilled out.
3. Align the bit with the hole to be drilled and brace yourself firmly. (you'll understand after a few tries). Start the drill just slightly above the hole, don't have the drill going too slow or too fast. You want the bit to "fall" into the hole but cut smoothly at the same time. IF the bit GRABS (it will until you get the feel of it) hit the reverse button to back the bit out. Re oil the bit and hit forward with just enough speed to enter the hole and cut through without "grabbing" on the aluminum block.

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To be continued......

98eldo32v
04-25-13, 01:15 PM
4. The 1/2 drill bit is used to "open" the mouth of each hole to some degree. When drilling, keep a steady speed of forward thrust into the hole and enough speed to cut, BUT avoid too slow of a speed for the bit to "grab" the aluminum. While drilling always push in a bit to cut and back out a bit to remove the shavings off the bit. The 1/2" bit WILL reach a point where it "feels" like it "bottoms out". At this point, inspect the hole with a flash light if necessary. Don't force the 1/2 bit any further once you feel it bottoms out, it's supposed to. When you inspect the hole, you should still see some threads left at the very bottom of the hole if you done the procedure correctly.
Do this for all holes.

5. 17/32 drilling. By the time you've loaded this bit in, I feel you should have a "feel" for what's taking place here. You should now have a "feel" for what rpm to cut the aluminum with the drill you are using. You should also have a "feel" on how to get the hole "started" per se' without the bit "grabbing" on initial insertion. The 17/32 bit is used for the final drilling before tapping. Again the procedure used to drill with the 1/2 bit will apply to the 17/32 EXCEPT we're going a little deeper. Lube the bit and the hole if necessary with trans fluid or motor oil. Align the bit above the hole, start the drill. Keep enough speed to fall in, but not to grab. Again, you will acquire a feel for this. Drill into the hole, back out to remove the shavings. With this bit you want to stop and inspect how far down you've gone before you bottom out. The purpose of this bit is to remove the last of the oem threads, and get the hole wide enough for the tapping of the studs. Once you've inspected and can guage how far down you must go to remove the oem threads, make a visual note on the bit or phyiscally mark it with paint. Every bit is different. If your sense of "touch" is just right, you can feel the 17/32 bit "bottom" out also. DO NOT GO ANY FURTHER THAN NECESSARY. Once the traces of the old threads are removed, inspect the hole by blowing out the shavings. You will use this procedure on all of the other holes till completed.

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Side note: Cover any and everything that you don't want aluminum shavings in. This procedure produces ALOT of aluminum shavings. When blowing out the holes, a blow tool with and extended wand is your friend. You will not love the feeling of aluminum hitting your hand as you try to blow the shavings out of the hole......

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Tapping conclusions next.......

rodnok01
04-25-13, 03:12 PM
Nice so far... I would recommend a drill bit depth stop or even a drill with depth rod on it(my 1/2 inch has it and is invaluable when you gotta drill not too deep). Free hand drilling those has gotta have some pucker factor with it. Look forward to the rest of your write up.

stoveguyy
04-25-13, 03:30 PM
It has been said by some that the studs alignment is an issue when you go to drop on the head. You may find some studs are not perfectly aligned with each other. Than you can tweak the stud or enlarge the clearance hole in the head slightly. I would expect the studs to be a bit off if you don't use a guide plate to drill. How far off you can live with is a good question. Let us know how smoothly head drops on when you get there

98eldo32v
04-25-13, 05:20 PM
I will.

The main thing at this point for me is getting the tapping done with clean cut threads. I have the ratcheting tap wrench that CCC used. I'm planning on utilizing both taps.


Stay tuned gents......

maeng9981
04-26-13, 04:54 PM
heaven forbid you start drilling and the drill "jumps" on you.

My biggest fear of drilling. Always get the first 1-2 holes do this, and then I get the feeling and the rest is smooth.

I've used Northstar Performance studs for the second time and the installation is smooth. I just cannot justify drilling the block straight away. Call me chicken, but no thanks, drilling with an alignment plate is nerve racking enough for me. I'd rather go slower, than have me mess up the block.

98eldo32v
04-27-13, 08:25 PM
Left side of the block is now tapped.

I plan on chasing the threads clean with the bottom tap.

When tapping, use plenty of lubricant. I used the good ol' trans fluid again. A little messy but I'd rather the tap feel like it's turning like butter than to fight the metal. It still requires a bit of strength.

Like the drilling procedure, turn a few turns, then back out to remove the chips. Blow out the remnants of aluminum and continue tapping.

An oil can with an extended tip will be useful to squirt oil into the hole before tapping. I'd advise dipping the tap into whatever lubricant you decide to use, but from the experience I've had, motor oil or the trans fluid is best. WD 40 or Pb blaster is not going to be thick enough to provide the lubrication need to keep cutting.

After all, you what your tap to stay as sharp and cut as clean as possible.


Pertaining to stud alignment.....

I can tell at least one stud is going to need a little "tweaking". It's the one in the hole that has to be repaired ironically.

I used the headgasket as a test fit after a few holes were tapped. I can tell that hole is going to need a "tweak".

Right side is next..........

98eldo32v
05-05-13, 06:18 AM
Right side is tapped.

I went back and ran the bottom tap that doesn't come with the Northstar Performance stud kit, bit was recommended by CCC on their website, but not in the videos.

The purpose of the bottom tap for me at least was to clean the threads that I had already cut with the starter tap. After running the bottom tap through all the holes, I blew whatever remanants out with my blow tool.

I plan to go back to the one hole that I had an issue with, seal it off with JB Weld.

We're rolling down hill now......



The three items in the picture will be very valuable during the tapping procedure.

The ratcheting tap wrench, the oil can to squirt oil/trans fluid into the holes and on to the tap and the extended blow tool to keep the debris out of your way while you blow out the holes.

Did I mention, this is a bit of a messy process.......

stoveguyy
05-09-13, 08:32 AM
Can u upload a pic of stud? Since u have camera?

Submariner409
05-09-13, 08:40 AM
There are hundreds of stud pictures in here, Deville, Seville and the stud maker's websites. Go back through daveyhouse's engine rebuild thread in this forum. Lotsa stud pictures, some of studs that needed 1/8" of tweaking to get in proper alignment.

98eldo32v
05-09-13, 11:48 AM
Here is one side studded....

I haven't done final set in with thread locker. One or two studs may need a tweak. I trial tested the old head gasket

stoveguyy
05-09-13, 03:48 PM
Nice. I wanted to see just the stud though. Am interested in thread bolt diameter/step?

98eldo32v
05-09-13, 06:22 PM
I used to have pictures of N* Performances studs, but I had to delete a few attachments to make room for new pictures. I'll see if I can take a picture...

vincentm
05-09-13, 06:55 PM
Here's a CCC stud i keep around

http://i42.tinypic.com/2yorf4x.jpg

Submariner409
05-09-13, 06:55 PM
Nice. I wanted to see just the stud though. Am interested in thread bolt diameter/step?

It's all in the posted websites. Hundreds of times, hundreds of studs.

Here's one of many .......... Tim Carroll's work................. You'll notice that he uses drop-on cylinder head alignment guide pins - Jake's studs have the appropriate studs machined to include the guide. Both suppliers are discussed endlessly in these forums, so anyone with the ability to do an Internet search has access to more pictures. For even more stud pictures, go through the ARP site.

98eldo32v
05-09-13, 07:13 PM
Let there be studs......

98eldo32v
05-23-13, 04:51 AM
Well,

The rear bank of studs are installed at 4" above the surface with thread locker. They'll need a tweak.

Have to set the front.......

stoveguyy
05-23-13, 11:10 AM
What is in upper right corner of pic? Can't see clearly. Looks like Honda motor?

98eldo32v
05-23-13, 01:09 PM
Sure is......

stoveguyy
05-24-13, 12:07 PM
My iPad crops the pics. I used my computer to look at pic and it is much larger.

98eldo32v
06-06-13, 06:36 PM
Front studs have been thread locked.

I have to tweak a couple to get the gasket and the heads on. I've got to get in the groove with this thing. Yet, have to pay some bills.

daveyhouse
06-07-13, 07:34 AM
I used a little plastic mini square (3") that came with my compound miter saw to check for squareness with the deck. I also used wooden foot ruler to check for proper exposure of stud above deck.

I then had a handle that came with a small hydraulic jack that was big enough to fit over the stud to tweak it in the direction needed. I put an old shirt over the stud to help protect the threads then applied pressure. Don't beat on it, just push.

stoveguyy
06-07-13, 08:15 AM
we all know studs are straight. does that mean you are drilling and tapping the holes at an angle? not that it makes any difference when heads are on

98eldo32v
06-11-13, 07:30 AM
@ Stoveguy,

I can only say that now that the studs are in and the drilling complete, the ones that need tweaking must be slightly off since drilling by hand WITHOUT a guide componet/device. I call this human error.

Yes, the studs are supposed to be straight also, but nothing in life is perfect. A slight tweak here and there won't be bad.

SUPER LAC DEVILLE
06-11-13, 07:59 AM
@ Stoveguy,

I can only say that now that the studs are in and the drilling complete, the ones that need tweaking must be slightly off since drilling by hand WITHOUT a guide componet/device. I call this human error.

Yes, the studs are supposed to be straight also, but nothing in life is perfect. A slight tweak here and there won't be bad.

If they're not straight then won't that give ur head bolts "Play" under load

I believe the whole objective is to Prevent Stripping of the threads and holes... That's what causes the separation of the blocks in the first place, right?

So if u drilled at an angle, u essentially created the very problem u were trying to fix

But I not exactly sure if that is the case with studs

Would like to know more on this so please keep up the updates :)

Submariner409
06-11-13, 08:48 AM
SUPER_LAC, The studs are threaded into the block and, once in, they are not turned (like, tightened) ever again. The fine threads and upper nuts do the torquing - not the lower threads; they aren't even tightened into the block - finger tight with thread locker. IF a stud hole is drilled and threaded a few thousandths of an inch off the stud then needs to be tweaked in the correct direction to get it perfectly perpendicular to the deck face. A stud can be "bent" (that's a scary term, here) a tiny bit to allow the head to smoothly drop over all 10.......... but if you had to bend the stud enough that you could see the angle at the lower thread area, then you have problems - big problems.

To further bend your mind, consider that original head bolts do not go all the way to the bottom of the block hole/threads - the only thing that holds those bolts in is the torque applied to clamp the head to the block - the bolts don't even come close to bottoming in the holes.

SUPER LAC DEVILLE
06-11-13, 10:52 AM
SUPER_LAC, The studs are threaded into the block and, once in, they are not turned (like, tightened) ever again. The fine threads and upper nuts do the torquing - not the lower threads; they aren't even tightened into the block - finger tight with thread locker. IF a stud hole is drilled and threaded a few thousandths of an inch off the stud then needs to be tweaked in the correct direction to get it perfectly perpendicular to the deck face. A stud can be "bent" (that's a scary term, here) a tiny bit to allow the head to smoothly drop over all 10.......... but if you had to bend the stud enough that you could see the angle at the lower thread area, then you have problems - big problems.

To further bend your mind, consider that original head bolts do not go all the way to the bottom of the block hole/threads - the only thing that holds those bolts in is the torque applied to clamp the head to the block - the bolts don't even come close to bottoming in the holes.

Oh ok!!!

I get that now

I was thinking the studs did all the tightening

Thanks for that clarification !!!


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stoveguyy
06-11-13, 02:25 PM
You lay stud on flat table and roll them. They don't look like a banana? Do they?

SUPER LAC DEVILLE
06-12-13, 10:11 AM
You lay stud on flat table and roll them. They don't look like a banana? Do they?

I will have to buy a kit one day!

Did everything work good tho?


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98eldo32v
06-13-13, 10:28 AM
Well,

A 12" x 3/4 pipe and a few pushes in different directions later, the headgaskets slid over the studs.

Now, it's getting the heads on.......

SUPER LAC DEVILLE
06-13-13, 10:19 PM
Any pics would be cool !


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98eldo32v
06-14-13, 08:36 AM
The left head is in place on the block!!

I cleaned the deck surface with lacquer thinner, then the head. I installed the dowels pins. ( The CCC dowel pins need improvement, they'll get the job done but low quality) I then slid the headgasket down onto the block.

The real fun was the head.

Holding the head at the at the front (facing the timing cover) and the rear (facing the transmission), I positioned the head over the studs and checked for their ease into the holes.

The head started to ease it's way down then stopped almost at the bottom. Ironically, I had to give it a few good shoves to make it the rest of the way then it stopped on the dowel pins.

I figured a block of wood and a few strategic taps will would seat the head, I was wrong. I had to get the nuts and washers out and altenate a tightening sequence to seat the heat to the block.

It's flush, but not torqued into place yet.


So far..... so good.....

Submariner409
06-14-13, 09:59 AM
I figured a block of wood and a few strategic taps will would seat the head, I was wrong. I had to get the nuts and washers out and altenate a tightening sequence to seat the heat to the block.

I don't like that description - ^^^ - not one bit. The head should slide down to the block like smooth velvet, seating flat with no strain anywhere.

Before you set the cams, redo your torque sequence at the last (highest) torque value.

JoeTahoe
06-14-13, 10:52 AM
You had to beat the head too get it over the dowel?

83CADMAN
06-14-13, 12:33 PM
You had to beat the head too get it over the dowel?
I don't like the sounds of that!!!
I'm in the process of drill & tapping for CCC studs / Guide pins. I thought the replacement pins I recieved were low grade but likewise they would get the job done.

98eldo32v
06-14-13, 01:22 PM
Gentleman,

Unless we're drilling with presicion machines and fixtures, there is going to be some room for error. How much depends on the accurracy if the individual involved and their skill level pertaining to these things.

For one, you can never compare the wimpy head bolt to the stud.

The hole drilled for the stud is at least two times larger than the bolt. The thread pitch is what eliminates the pulling out of the aluminum due to the coarse pitch of the stud versus the fine pitch of the bolt. Due to the fact that the "clamping" force is now induced from the nut and washer on the stud versus the bolt alone in the aluminum, rentention of the head should be superior.

There was no beating of the head over anything. I don't like those dowel pins. They'll work and obviously has worked on many cars that CCC has repaired, but personally the construction/ material leaves much to be desired.

If the studs need to be tweaked in any direction, as stated by Northstarperformance and CCC in their instructions the heads ISN'T going to slide on exactly "velvety" smooth. That is because of the human error angle. Therefore if a particular stud has been tweaked then it has the possibility of slowing the sliding of the head into it's final position.

What has to be used in this situation is caution and common sense. You can't just hammer one side down and then move to the other. You have to gently move the head into position as a "unit". Think of it as putting a lid on a coffee can. You have to go around the lid until it is seated on the can.

If you have to use the nuts and washers to alternately get the head into position, so be it. Gently position head onto the deck.

You re still dealing with solid fixtures per se'. The block is a solid fixture, the head is a solid fixture, the stud is a solid fixture. Out of those three, which is going to be the most flexible if needing a tweak to position itself?

big greg
06-14-13, 01:50 PM
Just seems like the tightness of the pins will tale away some of the desired "crush" of the gasket caused by the torque specs, you think putting oil on the threads can change this, seems like a tight pin would as well. I mean depending how tight

98eldo32v
06-14-13, 01:56 PM
No oil on the threads.

That is going to affect the overall torque readings when torquing the heads down.

big greg
06-14-13, 02:19 PM
Maybe the aluminum is the difference? I've always read/ did to put oil on threads when torquing

JoeTahoe
06-14-13, 02:32 PM
I have studded 6 northstar engines with Northstar Performance studs the last 4 with the same new x pattern jig with 0 alignment problems. This is were I think a jig will help a diyer, now this is just me thinking out loud and my experience.

98eldo32v
06-14-13, 02:50 PM
I have the northstar kit with the first design square plate.

I'd like to updgrade that plate to the "x" plate. I hear the bolts are different on the "x" plate versus the first gen plate.

I haven't used my kit yet, but I am going to on my eldo rebuild that I'm going to jump on after I install this motor back into the car.

I'd like to swap the first gen plate for the second gen "x" if possible.

JoeTahoe
06-14-13, 03:13 PM
I have the old plate too, I did my sts and a Eldorado with that with 0 alignment issues. I like the x plate better

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I also only use a air drill that the rpms are very low

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450 rpm free speed

98eldo32v
06-21-13, 08:04 PM
Left head is torqued into place.......

The right head is on.... but not torqued.


We're rolling down hill now.........

stoveguyy
06-25-13, 09:51 AM
Which head had issues with stud alignment? Seems to me u could put head on and than install studs. Since they only lightly screw into block. I assume u need to push heads down onto alignment dowels. Sort of a loose press fit?

JoeTahoe
06-25-13, 12:36 PM
That would be very difficult to do

stoveguyy
06-25-13, 06:13 PM
Oh yeah. Studs are stepped? Not same thread diameter at both ends?

98eldo32v
06-26-13, 06:37 AM
Both heads are now torqued in place. 75ft lbs perr CCC instructions.

I have to clean up the coolant crossover mounting surfaces.

I didn't like the "feel" of the water pump tensioner pulley. Either that pulley will be replaced or a new tensioner will have to be purchased...........

Submariner409
06-26-13, 07:04 AM
Gates 3-rib tensioner pulleys in RockAuto, $23. Your car, engine, "belt drive".

Pictures in my albums. Been there, done that (pulley only).

If you even remotely suspect that pulley does not turn like greased velvet, change it. Same with the accessory belt drive idler and tensioner pulleys.

EDIT: Instant gratification = NAPA

98eldo32v
06-26-13, 03:05 PM
The water pump tensioner pulley looks new, but it felt "notchy" when rotated by hand.

I wasn't too pleased with that. I didn't come this far to have something like that possibly cause a catastrophe. It'll be changed or the whole tensioner is coming out.

Thanks for the Rock Auto suggestion Sub......will check it out.

I edited my post ............. Sub

SUPER LAC DEVILLE
06-26-13, 08:11 PM
I love this thread...


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98eldo32v
06-28-13, 03:06 PM
Well,

I installed the intake cams back onto the heads. The left side went on like butter. The right side due to the cam profile is trying to open the valves on cylinder number 5.

If I rotate the cam, it's attempting to open another set of valves. When I installed the left side, the cam profile never got on the "nose" in any postion for it to open the valves, so I just took my time and re-installed the caps back in their corresponding positions.

The right however will need some ingenious installation techniques that I used to take it off.

I removed the AC Delco plugs that someone must have put on with an impact gun...... They looked damn near brand new.

Now I'm getting ready to reinstall the chains and tensioners......

ternstes
06-28-13, 03:49 PM
It's the exhaust cam, isn't it? Just install it slightly off the right angle mark to the head surface and then when you get ready to put the sprockets and chains on, rotate the cam slightly to line it up to its proper position. Also, if you are lucky, the cam will "stick" in that position and you won't have to hold it with a wrench while you put the chains on. A helper to hold the cam in position would be nice...

98eldo32v
06-28-13, 06:37 PM
Ternstes,

Ironically, the exhaust cams weren't removed. I removed the intakes, they were the easiest to access at the time. The right side/ rear intake cam will be a little finicky but I will prevail.

ternstes
06-28-13, 09:51 PM
Did you remove all the sprockets for all four cams? It is a bit challenging to get the chains on if the sprockets are on the cams already. Maybe it's the intake cam that needs slight adjustment on bank 1, it has been a while. In any event, just use a wrench on the cam to hold it at the right angle position while you install the sprockets and chain. Temporarily zip ties can help hold the chain to the sprockets while you get them in position. Any more pics you can share?

98eldo32v
07-01-13, 07:45 AM
Well,

The cams, chains , tensioners and guides are all back in.

I wasted more time trying to figure out how to get the right side/ rear guide back in than setting the timing. The timing was a breeze.

I guess my experience with quad 4's made this a walk in the park.

I unfortunately had to remove the right side intake cam again to install the guide but once in, it was smooth sailing.

Rotated the motor manaully a few turns to make sure everything was kosher........

We're on the way......

vincentm
07-01-13, 01:24 PM
Are servicing the transmission (solenoids etc) while it's out?

98eldo32v
07-01-13, 02:46 PM
Yes Vincent,

Changing the main filter and servicing the unit.

I believe Eldorado_Red stated the vehicle ran fine before he parked it for the headgasket issue.

When I remove the side cover we'll see what's going on in there and the state of the fluid.

All the motor mounts are getting changed also.

vincentm
07-01-13, 03:17 PM
Sweet, should run forever after all is said and done

98eldo32v
07-02-13, 07:46 AM
That's what I'm shooting Vincent.

For it to run forever........

Nick Cee
07-30-13, 01:26 AM
How's it going, is it running like a Caddy should? I'm saving for my studs, got caught up in the bottom end and it got expensive..

04GrandAmGT
08-02-13, 04:52 PM
Just a side note we now have bottom end studs $189.00 Includes XpressPost Shipping. Hope the build goes well, never give up on these engines they are a master piece when studded.

--Evrett--
Northstar Performance

98eldo32v
08-02-13, 11:17 PM
Bottom end studs are available....... interesting. Good to know, Thanks for the information

I've taken a hiatus from the Eldo unfortunately. Eldorado_Red has returned from his trip and we are plannining to get to together to finish this thing off.

I'm getting a little anxious to hear it run...

Actually I think we both are........

maeng9981
08-03-13, 08:14 AM
If only they were available a year ago.....I would've used them for my Deville rebuild.

98eldo32v
10-03-13, 08:45 AM
The cradle is back in.......

We're almost home.....

stoveguyy
10-04-13, 11:32 AM
08/03-10/03 time frame? That's how u forget where nuts/bolts/wires go. I pulled trans at 11am and installed new trans by 3pm. Yes, I did not drive car till next day but it sure was easy to remember where bolts went

98eldo32v
10-06-13, 04:43 PM
There are other things going on besides headgaskets in ones life.

Considering I've dismantled quite a few of these things, forgetting where they go isn't the problem. Finding them when you know you left them in a particular place and fashion is the issue.

Nonetheless, it's almost over.

98eldo32v
10-11-13, 01:19 AM
Eldorado_Red's car is finished and runs STRONG.......


No joke.....