: DTS Electrical problems



schneijohn
04-12-13, 08:13 PM
My battery runs down mysteriously while the car sits idle for several days. Anyone know of electrical problems with the 2006 DTS?

MoistCabbage
04-12-13, 09:17 PM
Is the battery original?

Superjim
04-12-13, 11:04 PM
DO NOT leave anything plugged into any of the outlets if you are going to be away from the car for more than a couple of days.
I am talking about cell phone chargers, radar detectors or anything else that plugs into the 12V outlets.

Mr.electric
04-12-13, 11:27 PM
Not worth the money to find that issue on a luxury car. Just put a little solar battery tender on the dash or a plug in battery tender and be done with it. You surely need a new battery too.

MoistCabbage
04-13-13, 02:27 AM
So if there is an electrical problem, you're suggesting ignoring it?

Mr.electric
04-13-13, 11:35 AM
Well I'm an auto mechanic by trade and yes I'm suggesting to ignore it. Simply because it is in the minor inconvenience category and extremely expensive category at the same time.
If his iPhone charger and other peripherals are not the cause then it is most likely something expensive like a computer.
If he really wanted to fix it then he could do this:
First get a new battery and see if the problem persists if it does

Disconnect the battery negative terminal
Connect a test light between the battery negative terminal and battery cable, now all current out of the battery must pass through the bulb in the test light first.
Leave the ignition off
The test light will probably slowly pulse on and off. This is the an indication of the parasitic loss. The light should be very dim and could pulse if everything is normal. If you have the opportunity try this on a known good similar model car first to compare with your car.
On your car the light bulb should illuminate more brightly if there is an unusual constant drain
Now pull one fuse at a time while observing the bulb. Any fuse that makes the bulb significantly dimmer is the one that indicates the trouble area / circuit. Keep in mind the bulb will never go out completely unless you pull the main fuse.
Another tip, the draw may automatically drop after the car has been sitting for about five minutes.
Another tip do the test with all the doors closed , so close the door jam switch somehow.

brucehammond
04-13-13, 12:30 PM
I had what I thought was a parasitic draw that turned out to be a bad battery. It was only 10 months old. Get a new battery first.

MoistCabbage
04-13-13, 12:54 PM
...First get a new battery and see if the problem persists...


...Get a new battery first....Or, he could have the battery TESTED first, instead of guessing and throwing money at it.

Mr.electric
04-13-13, 01:06 PM
Good point. Load test the battery.

brucehammond
04-13-13, 07:32 PM
They tested the battery twice and said it was good. I insisted they change the battery and it solved the problem. Load testing doesn't always work as I found out.

Mr.electric
04-13-13, 08:11 PM
Weird. Maybe your car has a parasitic drain.
I think the term for an bad computer that draws power when off is " fused logic gate" anyways you can expect to spend at least a grand on the part alone.
FYI Those solar cells that you leave on the dash are only $25
Sometimes you have to make a change to your cigarette lighter wiring so that it stays on when the car is off allowing the battery to charge from the solar cell with key off.

For cars that are stored indoors I have permanently installed small battery tenders. Classic cars that are driven very infrequently always need some help in the battery department. I like to hide the ac plug for the charger somewhere in the grill or under the bumper like a block heater cord. The car stays plugged in when out of use for months at a time them has a full charge when the time comes to try to start it again.

danog
04-13-13, 11:47 PM
Parasitic Draw Tests with a test lamp went away in the 90ís

With newer cars you canít use a test light. Most GM cars from 2000 and up can draw 20 to 30 mA after all computers have gone to sleep will be normal.
You canít tell that with a test lamp. With an AMP meter you would know its normal.

Important:Removing fuses, relays, and connectors to determine the failure area may wake up modules.
You must wait for these modules to go to sleep or use the sleep function on the scan tool

ON star will draw 20 ma for 48 hours

All Gen 6, 7, 8, and 9 systems are powered up continuously for 48 hours from ignition off. After the 48 hours the Gen 6 and
some Gen 7 power off; Gen 7.XXL, and all Gen 8 systems will enter a 9 minute OFF 1 minute ON power cycle for an additional 72 hours.
Gen9 and FCP1 (Volt) will remain in that mode for 120 hours (5 days). At the beginning and end of the 1 minute ON stage,
you may experience a short spike of current at the beginning and at the end. This allows for calls from OnStar to be received by the system.



The graph below indicates roughly how many days a 690 CCA battery with at 110 min. RC (60.5 AH) starting at 80 percent state of charge will last with a constant current draw until it reaches 50 percent state of charge. Differences in battery rating and temperature will affect the results.
-Current Drain Days
25mA ------ 30.5
50mA ------ 16.5
75mA ------ 11
100Ma ------ 8.25
250mA ----- 3.3
500mA----- 1.65
750mA ----- 1
1A --------- 0.8
2A --------- 0.4

ral1960
04-14-13, 12:55 AM
My DeVille mysteriously drained overnight once or twice when it was really warm and humid out. I don't think it did it after the battery was replaced some months later.

It sounds like the Nav DVD loader is running multiple times after I open the door to get in my DTS. I assume that's normal. I've no idea if the DVD is inside--no use for it at the moment.

Mr.electric
04-14-13, 09:40 AM
Parasitic Draw Tests with a test lamp went away in the 90’s

With newer cars you can’t use a test light. Most GM cars from 2000 and up can draw 20 to 30 mA after all computers have gone to sleep will be normal.
You can’t tell that with a test lamp. With an AMP meter you would know its normal.

Important:Removing fuses, relays, and connectors to determine the failure area may wake up modules.
You must wait for these modules to go to sleep or use the sleep function on the scan tool

ON star will draw 20 ma for 48 hours

All Gen 6, 7, 8, and 9 systems are powered up continuously for 48 hours from ignition off. After the 48 hours the Gen 6 and
some Gen 7 power off; Gen 7.XXL, and all Gen 8 systems will enter a 9 minute OFF 1 minute ON power cycle for an additional 72 hours.
Gen9 and FCP1 (Volt) will remain in that mode for 120 hours (5 days). At the beginning and end of the 1 minute ON stage,
you may experience a short spike of current at the beginning and at the end. This allows for calls from OnStar to be received by the system.



The graph below indicates roughly how many days a 690 CCA battery with at 110 min. RC (60.5 AH) starting at 80 percent state of charge will last with a constant current draw until it reaches 50 percent state of charge. Differences in battery rating and temperature will affect the results.
-Current Drain Days
25mA ------ 30.5
50mA ------ 16.5
75mA ------ 11
100Ma ------ 8.25
250mA ----- 3.3
500mA----- 1.65
750mA ----- 1
1A --------- 0.8
2A --------- 0.4

Good chart. I think using a test light is still here. At least the master techs at the dealership I worked at used them. The light is just a short cut. Using an ammeter is more accurate. The thinking to keep in mind is there is no one correct way to fix a car. The point is getting it done, hopefully in a relatively short period of time. Otherwise the customer is overcharged. Example spending an extra 45 minutes jotting down ammeter readings and comparing to a chart when 9/10 times it is either the cell phone charger or a bad battery that causes such problems. If it is not the usual problems the tendency for the computers to sleep and wake up makes it very difficult to find the issue. Using the scanner to enable sleep mode sounds like a really good technique. Every heard stories of cars that have been to numerous shops to have a parasitic drain fixed ? It is not an easy problem to address. The shop that satisfies the customer wins. Which may include various solutions. Billing for a few hours labor and a $1000 computer only to have the customer come back with the same complaint is not one of the ways to satisfy the customer.

Atavar
08-19-13, 12:56 AM
It must be a fairly good drain to run the battery in a DTS down in two days. As a smoker I have an ionizing air filter with a fan plugged in and powered up 24x7 and it hasn't run the battery down noticeably yet.

BTW, an ionizing filter makes a *huge* difference in the freshness of the interior, especially if like me you occasionally smoke while driving. This is the one I use

http://www.sharp.ca/en-CA/ForHome/HomeEnvironment/AirPurifier/AirPurifiers/IGBC2UB.aspx
It draws about 3W on high which is about 250 ma. By the chart above that would be 3 days to pull the battery down to 80%. I can live with that.

danog
08-19-13, 04:47 PM
http://www.sharp.ca/en-CA/ForHome/HomeEnvironment/AirPurifier/AirPurifiers/IGBC2UB.aspx
It draws about 3W on high which is about 250 ma. By the chart above that would be 3 days to pull the battery down to 80%. I can live with that.

Atavar

12 volts 3 watts = .25 amp

Power/watts (P) Voltage (E) Current (I)

Watts = volts X amps

Formula P=E x I

jazoo
08-19-13, 07:34 PM
My battery runs down mysteriously while the car sits idle for several days. Anyone know of electrical problems with the 2006 DTS?

Hey schneijohn;

You reported the 2006 Caddy's battery leakage problem four months but never gave us the update on this issue. So, what gives??

Atavar
08-19-13, 09:11 PM
Atavar

12 volts 3 watts = .25 amp

Power/watts (P) Voltage (E) Current (I)

Watts = volts X amps

Formula P=E x I

Umm.. .25 amp *IS* 250ma .. 1A=1000mA ..
what are you trying to say?