: If looking for front wheel bearings...



Whit151
04-07-13, 08:35 PM
I was looking on the forums on how easy it is to change front wheel bearings (the local Caddy dealer wanted $700 to replace my front left wheel bearing) and decided to do it myself.

After further research on the forums, I saw Timken was the aftermarket one to go with. AutoZone has the Timken V wheel bearings for $78.99 each (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Timken-Wheel-Bearing-Hub-Assembly-Front/2005-Cadillac-CTS/_/N-jmlqfZ8knsu?itemIdentifier=704469_461303_0_34407), and if you order two, you get 20% off and free shipping.

Just thought I'd pass along.

Also, I've checked the forums and my Chilton manual on removal and installation of the wheel bearings. Any tips or tricks to the install?

FuzzyLogic
04-07-13, 08:58 PM
Timkin is relatively cheap stuff. Try the SKF STS-V X-Tracker hubs.

AAIIIC
04-07-13, 11:12 PM
Also, I've checked the forums and my Chilton manual on removal and installation of the wheel bearings. Any tips or tricks to the install?
It's really pretty straightforward, definitely not worth paying someone $700 to do.

Manseeno
04-08-13, 02:00 AM
My two front wheel bearings were just recently replaced with a set of Autozone Timkens with that same deal; my favorite part was the fact that the two Timken boxes said "Made in the USA"...

lollygagger8
04-08-13, 08:16 AM
Timken is more than fine. I've used them in all my Jeeps rolling 35's on 8.8 axles and never had any problems afterreplacing the stockers.

Post a link on this easy job. Somebody have a writeup? I just wanna see for shiggles.

AAIIIC
04-08-13, 08:43 AM
(1) Jack up corner of car
(2) Remove wheel
(3) Remove caliper. Don't let it hang by the hose, silly!
(4) Remove rotor
(5) Unplug ABS wheel sensor harness
(6) Remove 3 bolts holding hub to knuckle
(7) Pull hub out of knuckle, making note of how the ABS sensor wiring is positioned so you can put the new hub in the same orientation
(8) Reverse steps to install new hub

I don't remember the torque spec off the top of my head - maybe 85 ft-lb?

lollygagger8
04-08-13, 01:53 PM
(1) Jack up corner of car
(2) Remove wheel
(3) Remove caliper. Don't let it hang by the hose, silly!
(4) Remove rotor
(5) Unplug ABS wheel sensor harness
(6) Remove 3 bolts holding hub to knuckle
(7) Pull hub out of knuckle, making note of how the ABS sensor wiring is positioned so you can put the new hub in the same orientation
(8) Reverse steps to install new hub

I don't remember the torque spec off the top of my head - maybe 85 ft-lb?

Well, that was easy

odla
04-09-13, 05:55 PM
What about the rear? Same procedure?

musclebird05
04-11-13, 08:08 PM
What about the rear? Same procedure?

generally yes...but remember there's an axle shaft in the middle for the rears. Your gunna need a 34mm socket (black socket, ideally so you can use an air powered impact wrench) to remove it from the hub. I just unbolted everything from the rear spindle but left the E-brake cable attached. This makes removing the axle out the middle of the hub much easier. If your Axle shaft is stuck in you hub assembly, after removing the axle nut, reinstall it backwards (washer facing outwards) and thread it down til its flush with the axle. Use a rubber coated dead-blow hammer (has beads in it) and a couple of love taps to get it loose and should slide right out. Just remember to put everything back the way you found it. lol

FuzzyLogic
04-11-13, 11:38 PM
Out of curiosity, did you notice that your wheels spun more freely after you installed new bearings? I wonder how much parasitic loss there is in car wheel bearings. Compared to the Swiss bearings I had on my race skates back in the 90's, they seem pretty slow.

robojesus
04-12-13, 04:27 PM
Timken bearings are very, very good bearings. I just replaced a rear wheel bearing in my car, and I'm upset that I didn't know you could get Timkens that cheap. I paid 130 for a Moog.

Whit151
04-20-13, 11:09 PM
I'm just trying to figure out why they're so cheap for V fronts - the V rear Timken's for at AutoZone are $170. The front bearings for a base CTS are $170 and $176 for the rear.

BTW - just put my front bearings on today. Took a little longer than expected (rotor guide screw stripped, had to drill to take it out), but definitely was worth it - saved a boatload of money putting in bearings, rotors and new brake pads.:yup:

D3l7a3ch0
04-21-13, 12:41 AM
I was dying to see you write "by switching to Geico."

what mileage did you change the bearings at, and what prompted the replacement (was it a noise)?

incubusjunkie614
04-21-13, 12:21 PM
i believe front wheel bearing torque specs are:

caliper bolts: ~96 ft/lbs
wheel lugs: 100ft/lbs
wheel bearing bolts: 100 ft/lbs

that is what I found from the research I did, just a couple days ago.

Ak Jim
04-21-13, 01:15 PM
How did you know the bearings needed to be replaced?

Manseeno
04-21-13, 01:51 PM
How did you know the bearings needed to be replaced?

In my case, the previous owner got a little too "friendly" with curbs and there was a noticeable amount of play when I grabbed the top & bottom of the front passenger wheel and wiggled it. I also had the stability system activate one time while I was pulling into a parking space (neither fast nor slow) and the car felt like it didnt want to stop....kinda scared me and hinted that a sensor had been damaged. My drivers side seemed ok, but I felt it would be a good idea to replace both sides. Mine never made noise, I only looked into it after the stability system 'incident' knowing key sensors are built into the hubs.

Whit151
04-28-13, 09:28 PM
I started to hear a squeak whenever I would turn the wheel to the left while driving. Then, I started to hear the squeak when I turned the wheel both left and right. It got worse when I would go over bumps.