: $4 Fix to Door Handle Micro Switch Woes



ottawagta
04-04-13, 09:33 PM
Here's how you can replace those pesky switches:

Follow the handle removal steps in this thread: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-sts-forum-2005-through-2012/228338-drivers-door-micro-switch-replacement-how.html

If you determine it is the microswitches, order a bunch of these (2/door, and get some spares): http://canada.newark.com/honeywell-s-c/zd30s20a01/submin-basic-switch-pin-plgr-spdt/dp/86R9335?Ntt=86r9335

Remove the microswitch harness from the handle. With a fine screwdriver, remove the potting the bottom of the switches. Draw a diagram of how the wiring looks, and switches are placed in the holder. Once you have removed enough potting, the switches can be pushed out of the holder by pushing up on the bottom (wire side of the switches). Unsolder the wires from the switches (you made the diagram, right?)

Here is a pic with the holder, switches removed, with new switch.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=106225&stc=1&d=1365120053


Insert the new switches into the housing. They will only fit in one direction, and their body should be flush with the housing when in completely:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=106226&stc=1&d=1365120362

Now, solder the wires accoring to your diagram.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=106227&stc=1&d=1365120941

Lastly put potting compound on the connections. Do not use silicone as some kinds can damage the connections due to acid released during the cure. My low tech potting compound was a hot glue stick (it seems to work fine). It may be beneficial to first place the switch harness back into the handle assembly, to check how the wires exiting the switch housing relate to the handle body before potting (otherwise the wires may not clear the handle body).

Installation is reverse to removal, make sure to read the note about this in the removal instructions posted at the start of this thread. Grease all plastic to plastic interfaces, it makes reassembly easier.

Enjoy your work!

mreichel481980
04-01-15, 09:03 AM
Dear Sir.

Thank you very much for your great work. I had this trouble too. Your instuction save a lot of my time and about $90 for the new part from Cadillac. Thank you again.

cpetro45
04-07-15, 06:37 PM
Yeah, thanks for this. I'm chasing down this issue now to. Both front doors, 05 sts, a real pleasure. They were intermittent with the weather, now neither have functioned for a few days. I'm concerned because it seems like neither antenna is working since the back doors don't unlock when I pull the front handles.

russ1947
04-18-15, 11:54 AM
I did some research last night and came up with a switch that already has the wires attached. All you need to do is splice them in.

297401

ZD30SA01EA
Switch Snap Action N.O./N.C.
SPDT Pin Plunger PC Pins 3A
125VAC 1.27N Screw Mount

http://www.onlinecomponents.com/honeywell-zd30sa01ea.html?p=25257439

SuperDaveSTS
05-04-15, 03:47 PM
^^^Looks like theres a minimum amount you have to order for these^^^

dkozloski
05-04-15, 05:51 PM
Not so. I ordered a half dozen from Newark USA with no problem.

SuperDaveSTS
05-04-15, 06:45 PM
Newark USA?

dkozloski
05-04-15, 06:53 PM
WWW.Newark.com

SuperDaveSTS
05-04-15, 07:07 PM
How did you order these, it still wont let me because of the minimum is 1000 lol

dkozloski
05-04-15, 08:07 PM
I'm looking at switches in an envelope.
The tag says:
MFR# ZD30S20A01
SKU: 86R9335
QTY: 6


WWW.newark.com (http://WWW.newark.com)

I've been ordering from Newark for years and have never been jerked around on minimum qtys.

------------------------------------------------------

Go to WWW.Newark.com (http://WWW.Newark.com)

Right at the top of the page is a search box where you enter keyword/part#

Type in: 86R9335

You'll go right to a page where they show they have 551 in stock at $1.57 each.
I don't know what else I can tell you.

Cheers!

stevenriz
05-05-15, 05:05 PM
https://octopart.com/zd30sa01ea-honeywell-12338811 will sell small quantities as well but there is a minimum order surcharge if you don't buy enough stuff. Is newark the same?

----------

question.....

what are some other uses for these micro switches? These millions of switches aren't all going into Cadillac front doors....

dkozloski
05-05-15, 06:13 PM
This is a generic item that has hundreds of applications. Ice machines, coffee pots, canning machinery, robots, you name it.

SuperDaveSTS
05-09-15, 05:38 PM
Holy crap, I actually was able to order 6 of them, AWESOME!!!

SuperDaveSTS
06-02-15, 07:13 PM
Just replaced my pass side micro switchs, everything works like a charm now.

RazorBacker1
06-06-15, 05:38 AM
just ordered my half dozen switches too!! Thanks !

cpetro45
06-17-15, 05:54 PM
Does anyone know how much of a PITA it is to splice these vs getting the switches with the wires attached. The switches with the wires attached are not available from newark.com and their is a 50$ minimum on other sites. The switches without the wire which it seems others have ordered recently are still available from newark.com without an order minimum. Thanks,

Chris

SuperDaveSTS
06-18-15, 01:10 PM
There isnt a $50 minimum, I just went through this and was able to order 6 switches, I already replaced my pass side switches. The hardest part of this is holding your hand still enough to solder the wires to the new switches.

cpetro45
06-18-15, 03:51 PM
There isnt a $50 minimum, I just went through this and was able to order 6 switches, I already replaced my pass side switches. The hardest part of this is holding your hand still enough to solder the wires to the new switches.

Thanks...right I understand that the switches without the wires are available. If you look above in the thread, there is a link for the same switches with the wires. This would be easier...while I'm not afraid to solder I'd rather splice as I think this is easier and more secure connection (for me...I get soldering is a strong connection as well). OK, well, I will probably just order the ones without the wires unfortunately.

Thanks

EChas3
06-19-15, 09:04 PM
Even splices should be soldered, if you want them to last.

SuperDaveSTS
06-20-15, 08:15 PM
Just replaced my drivers side switches, soldered the connections then hot glued the housing like it is originally, works like a charm. I might make a spare pass side if anyone is interested, seeing that I have 2 extra switches and a harness for the pass side.

Boat
06-22-15, 02:13 PM
Just ordered switches for both sides, the ones with the wires already attached needed a minimum order of $50.

cpetro45
06-22-15, 03:58 PM
Just ordered switches for both sides, the ones with the wires already attached needed a minimum order of $50.

Yeah me to...same deal...got the ones without wires. I think you'd need like 5 people that wanted both sides done to get the switches with the wires (and then figure out how to get them to everyone)...oh well

Boat
06-22-15, 08:53 PM
Question...I think my micro switches are going bad, doors won't always open...but sometimes I'll get in and it'll give me the 'key fob not detected'. Is this also a symptom of the bad micro switches?

framedforlife
06-24-15, 01:09 AM
how long ago did you replace the fob battery?

Boat
06-24-15, 07:42 AM
Literally just replaced it. That's what I assumed too.

dkozloski
06-24-15, 01:51 PM
Question...I think my micro switches are going bad, doors won't always open...but sometimes I'll get in and it'll give me the 'key fob not detected'. Is this also a symptom of the bad micro switches?It sounds like it may be a broken handle antenna to me.

SuperDaveSTS
06-24-15, 03:44 PM
Mine did the same thing for the pass side, both wires were ripped of the handle, replaced the handle and the problem went away. Soon after I went back and replced the micro switches without a glitch, did the same for the drivers side recently minus the handle.

sedlmayrje1723
06-24-15, 04:11 PM
Would anyone want to make these for me? I would pay you to do it and pay to ship them to me! I need one for my drivers side door!!!!!

SuperDaveSTS
06-25-15, 09:17 PM
Send me your original door harness and I'll be able to fix it.

Boat
06-27-15, 02:00 PM
Got my switches replaced, working nicely.

But sometimes both doors won't open (red light comes on so I know the switches are fine). Are there antennas in both handles?

ronj1986
06-30-15, 07:55 PM
Hi everyone, sorry to ask if this seems like a silly question. My driver's side door won't open with the key next to it. Is this the same problem that everyone is referring to?

SuperDaveSTS
07-01-15, 10:32 AM
Usually is, either that or the door handle antenna.

Boat
07-01-15, 12:21 PM
Usually is, either that or the door handle antenna.

Is there antennas in both handles? (Refer to my post on the bottom of page 2)

SuperDaveSTS
07-01-15, 12:45 PM
Both front doors have them yes.

Ludacrisvp
07-01-15, 01:09 PM
There are also other antennas in the car to determine fob location.

No fobs detected will most certainly fall into:
1. Weak battery in FOB
2. Interference between FOB and the various antennas. Which can be caused by your body or cell phones or Bluetooth devices.
3. Failing / faulty / damaged FOB

I suppose it's possible that one of the half dozen or so antennas in the car may be having an issue but I'd doubt it. I don't think the door handle antennas count as being related to this fob not detected issue.

ronj1986
07-01-15, 04:58 PM
Is there a test method to determine if it is the microswitch or the door handle antenna that is malfunctioning?

Boat
07-01-15, 07:13 PM
Oh wow! Just realized, I have those RFID blockers in my wallet which is in the same pocket as my fob...that's probably my issue LOL.

Neutrocuted
07-05-15, 07:56 AM
Oh wow! Just realized, I have those RFID blockers in my wallet which is in the same pocket as my fob...that's probably my issue LOL.

That would be the $0 Fix!

Reigntrs8
08-23-15, 02:23 PM
do you guys know if this would work on 2008 CTS? I have a door that wont open from the outside but would open from the inside, I think its the switch. I have the key system (not keyless system remote- does that even make any difference?) any recommendations would be appreciated.

Ludacrisvp
08-23-15, 02:40 PM
The CTS would not be affected by this as the STS is the only GM product that I know of that uses this complex door system.

STSV8
09-15-15, 03:52 PM
I did it around 2 months ago and it was pretty easy to do. I had already replaced the driver door handle so it was easier. It also gave me a chance to grease the door handle and it is now much smoother than it was before. Thanks

SuperDaveSTS
09-16-15, 09:12 AM
Anyone know which wires go to which terminal on the switches for the drivers door, I thought I took pics from the first time for reference but I was mistaken.

dgalmo
09-17-15, 10:00 PM
I'm installing the switches soon and can tell you then.

1crock
09-20-15, 07:29 PM
Here you go Razoraker1. Click here. (http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-sts-forum-2005-through-2012/286460-4-fix-door-handle-micro-switch.html) That should get you to a link that will give you what you need.

GreyFox
01-30-16, 05:17 PM
I don't understand how either of these microswitches could work. They are rated at 125 volts 3 amps. The car's electrical system is only 12 volts. Would somebody please explain.

EChas3
01-30-16, 10:34 PM
Those are rated maximums; typical for US market.

rcisfun
03-26-16, 11:45 AM
Digi Key (Switch only)

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ZD30S20A01/480-6417-ND/2748535


Arrow Electronics (Switch with Leads)

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/zd30sa01ea/honeywell

Mouser (Switch with leads)

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Honeywell/ZD30SA01EA/?qs=64Td67W0zoQ5fyZmGpu6ow%3D%3D

mIAn
03-29-16, 04:57 AM
Here's how you can replace those pesky switches:

Follow the handle removal steps in this thread: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-sts-forum-2005-through-2012/228338-drivers-door-micro-switch-replacement-how.html

If you determine it is the microswitches, order a bunch of these (2/door, and get some spares): http://canada.newark.com/honeywell-s-c/zd30s20a01/submin-basic-switch-pin-plgr-spdt/dp/86R9335?Ntt=86r9335

Remove the microswitch harness from the handle. With a fine screwdriver, remove the potting the bottom of the switches. Draw a diagram of how the wiring looks, and switches are placed in the holder. Once you have removed enough potting, the switches can be pushed out of the holder by pushing up on the bottom (wire side of the switches). Unsolder the wires from the switches (you made the diagram, right?)

Here is a pic with the holder, switches removed, with new switch.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=106225&stc=1&d=1365120053


Insert the new switches into the housing. They will only fit in one direction, and their body should be flush with the housing when in completely:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=106226&stc=1&d=1365120362

Now, solder the wires accoring to your diagram.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=106227&stc=1&d=1365120941

Lastly put potting compound on the connections. Do not use silicone as some kinds can damage the connections due to acid released during the cure. My low tech potting compound was a hot glue stick (it seems to work fine). It may be beneficial to first place the switch harness back into the handle assembly, to check how the wires exiting the switch housing relate to the handle body before potting (otherwise the wires may not clear the handle body).

Installation is reverse to removal, make sure to read the note about this in the removal instructions posted at the start of this thread. Grease all plastic to plastic interfaces, it makes reassembly easier.

Enjoy your work!

At first place how one can confirm that its the switches.
Mine both driver and passenger door aren't working. Once i sprayed lithium grease inside door handle and it start working for some time.
When i pull the driver door handle passenger doors unlock.

What you think its switches or antena?

ddalder
03-29-16, 06:09 PM
At first place how one can confirm that its the switches.
Mine both driver and passenger door aren't working. Once i sprayed lithium grease inside door handle and it start working for some time.
When i pull the driver door handle passenger doors unlock.

What you think its switches or antena?
The search tool can be your friend...

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-sts-forum-2005-through-2012/762330-troubleshooting-passive-keyless-entry-system.html

Generally speaking, if you press the unlock button on your fob, pull the handle and the door opens, the problem is quite likely the antenna. If you unlock the car but the door doesn't open when you pull the handle, switch(es) are quite likely the cause. The testing matrix will help to better pinpoint where the problem is.

SuperDaveSTS
03-30-16, 10:44 AM
If anyone is looking for one, I have a new in the box assembly for the drivers door, it may work for the pass side as well from the looks of it. Send me a PM, I don't need this anymore since I now have a CTS.

Kcv7129
04-04-16, 12:09 PM
Will a switch problem cause the rest of the electronics in the door to fault? Or am I looking at a relay/wiring issue?

ddalder
04-04-16, 02:26 PM
Will a switch problem cause the rest of the electronics in the door to fault? Or am I looking at a relay/wiring issue?
You need to be more specific but without other details I'd say no. These switch faults affect only the ability of the passive entry system to work correctly. Perhaps start a new thread detailing what problems you're having because I get the impression it's a different issue.

sapien
04-12-16, 10:21 PM
anybody got a couple extra of the switches w/leads they wanna sell?

WJS1954
04-16-16, 02:53 PM
just ordered two wired, Sure hope i can figure out how to put them in :),,29.35 with shipping still cheaper than control with mount.

GreyFox
04-17-16, 11:35 AM
I have 8 of them I am not going to use. They have 3 wires each, so they can be set up as normally open or normally closed. You just don't use the wire you don't need. No soldering. $50 for the set. If you're interested, PM me.

WJS1954
05-08-16, 02:00 AM
ok so I got the switches, anyone from near Manchester ct want to make a few bucks? I pulled the door panel off (because the silver was peeling on interior handles, replaced them). However I got nervous about doing the switches so put the door back together. I will pay someone to change them out for me...

WJS1954
05-26-16, 11:29 AM
ok i am attempting it myself please help, new switch has 3 wires which 3 do I connect? also it is the passenger front door are they wired same as drivers I did not mark which wires were where before removing old switches.. now because I had to use a razor knife to remove them from the housing I have no idea how they were wired....

WJS1954
05-26-16, 02:57 PM
so after guessing which wires not a happy camper, 4 hour almost 90 outside door still will not open from outside....I guess I buy a new handle and switches in bracket because I am not doing this again!!! and for you all that said it was a easy job I say NOT!!!!!!!!!!!!

ddalder
05-26-16, 05:43 PM
so after guessing which wires not a happy camper, 4 hour almost 90 outside door still will not open from outside....I guess I buy a new handle and switches in bracket because I am not doing this again!!! and for you all that said it was a easy job I say NOT!!!!!!!!!!!!
Switches are most definitely not always the problem. In over five years of ownership, switches have never been my problem but I have replaced a few door handles. I had posted a troubleshooting matrix in another thread to help diagnose what the problem is. In fact, if you look back to post #49 in this thread (closer to the top of this page), you'll find a link there. Did you happen to see that other thread?

Vraatzii
05-26-16, 10:06 PM
If anyone is looking for one, I have a new in the box assembly for the drivers door, it may work for the pass side as well from the looks of it. Send me a PM, I don't need this anymore since I now have a CTS.Do you have the handle or the handle housing ? I need a drivers door handle my antenna quit working.

WJS1954
05-27-16, 08:51 AM
Does anyone know a website to buy a passenger side front door handle in black, best i can find is 136.00

GreyFox
05-27-16, 12:27 PM
So here's the deal. Somewhere in this forum there is a thread that tells you how to replace the micro switches. In this thread, it says whether the switches are normally open or normally closed - I don't remember which. I think the factory switches only have 2 wires. Your new switches have 3 wires which will allow them to be set up as either normally open or normally closed. The factory switches didn't have this option. So, what you need to do is figure out which wires to use in order to match the factory configuration. One of the wires is what you would call a common, or ground. Of the remaining two, one is for normally open, and one is for normally closed. So, get yourself a continuity tester. If you connect the two, non-common wires together you will have no continuity regardless of whether or not the micro switch is depressed. So, doing this identifies the common wire. Now, connect the continuity tester to the common wire and one of the remaining wires. If it shows continuity, you have now found the wire that is to be used in a circuit which is normally closed. If to achieve continuity you have to depress the micro switch, you have found the normally open wire. Use the pair that matches the configuration of the factory micro switch - it doesn't matter which one of this pair you connect to either the + side or the - side of the factory harness. You should tape off the end of the wire that you aren't going to use in order to avoid any unnecessary shorts.

ddalder
05-28-16, 02:01 AM
For the passenger or driver's door you will have four wires that attach to the two switches. The Orange and Dark Blue go to one switch and the Dark Green and Gray go to the other switch. On each switch, one wire will connect to the Common (C) terminal and the other wire will connect to the Normally Open (NO) terminal. It really doesn't make any different which of the two wires on the switch connects to Common and which connects to Normally Open, but if you want to be absolutely technical about it...

Switch #1
Orange Wire - Common
Dark Blue Wire - Normally Open

Switch #2
Gray Wire - Common
Dark Green Wire - Normally Open

As mentioned, it would be best practice to insulate the remaining wire (attached to the Normally Closed (NC)) terminal.

WJS1954
06-06-16, 08:21 AM
Finally done with front passenger door handle issue, found one on ebay in black with bracket and micro switches :), about 60 mile round trip to pick it up 45 minutes to change it out. very happy now.. pretty sure the reason the switches did not work that I had put in was because...I man handled the door handle when I put it in the first time BROKE one of the micro switches I had purchased that I had made fit into the bracket. so even thou I probably did not need a handle so glad when I picked it up it was the complete assembly otherwise I would have been SOL...

stringztoo
06-23-16, 09:59 AM
Wouldn't the NO be the same for all switches? Since I don't have a continuity tester, do we know (and could we label) which of the 3 connectors is the ground and which is the NO & NC?

I'm asking because I just paid $150 for a new interior handle assembly and after plugging it in I found the switches unlocked the door perfectly.. but I couldn't align the final lock mechanism on the outside of the door to align with the t25 hex nut in the door frame, tried a million times, couldn't get it in. Decided to take everything off and reattach everything and when trying to put the handle back in I ripped the tip off one of the switches and made the $150 part useless.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v497/stringztoo/Mobile%20Uploads/20160622_195738_zps5xawrc2c.jpg

stringztoo
06-26-16, 09:44 PM
Nevermind I figured it out myself without any continuity tester... The 3 prong switches should be wired like this:

Green wire - top connector (the one behind the button on the switch)
Gray wire - middle connector

Blue wire - top connector (the one behind the button on the switch)
Orange wire - middle connector

Don't use the bottom connector. Solder everything patiently and seal everything up with a hot glue gun. Reinsert the connector with the switches and you're good as new. Tested it and shockingly worked!

I actually did another set on my old part, just replaced the switches. Might try to sell it for $100 or so which is less than a whole new part which runs $150. That final t25 hex screw in the middle panel that connects the piece to the left of the pull handle is a bitch to get in tho...easily took me 50 attempts.

ravivsa
08-24-16, 12:15 PM
My front passenger door would not open except when it was wet (after substantial rain or car wash), I sprayed some WD40 into the handle from the outside (pull the handle and spray into the hole) and it solved the problem.
A month has gone by and it still works.
Hope this helps some of you...

SuperDaveSTS
08-27-16, 03:05 PM
Thats just a temporary fix, it will act up again. Let me know if you want to replace that, I have a new on still in the box for the pass side.

lvflyer
09-26-16, 12:15 AM
Ok guys I have some issue with micro switches. I posted this in its own thread, but haven't gotten any replies. I'll post the official schematic also. It shows that both micro switches provide a negative or ground to the door module simultaneously. Why are two switches needed that provide the same signal to two locations? Why can't the good micro switch be used to provide the ground to both wires? I tested that theory and it works. Is there something that will mess up the readings in the computer from both wires OG and Gy being tied together? I think only a Cadillac electronic guru can answer this.

415458

targetSTS
09-26-16, 03:39 AM
one switch can be used. I don't know why cadillac made it with 2 switches.....maybe some security reasons

carter's_sts
09-26-16, 01:10 PM
I think this is the reason.......you can pull the handle part way, quickly, and that will unlock all the doors (if set that way in the menu), but not open the door you are pulling the handle on.

That lets you unlock another door you want to get into.

If you pull the handle all the way for longer it will unlock all the doors and open the door you are pulling.

lvflyer
09-26-16, 02:51 PM
My main concern is if I tie the two signal wires together there may be some feedback loop on the processor. So I can prevent that by using a couple diodes to bridge the two wires. I guess the only thing I'm giving up is unlocking the back doors without actually opening the door. Why is that so much different than opening the door and closing it if you don't want to get in?

ddalder
09-26-16, 09:21 PM
Since one of the switches is labelled as an "unlock enable" and the other is a "lift switch", it's probably reasonable to assume that one is part of a safety interlock system. This would help to ensure the handle actually gets pulled instead of something like a single wire chaffing through causing the door to pop while you're driving down the road. You would need to ask one of their engineers if this was the thought process to know for sure. Like I said in your other thread, if the switch inputs test fine then the problem is almost certainly the door handle. I still say you are making this far more difficult than it needs to be.

----------

It's also reasonable that this is why GM used separate inputs for each signal.

lvflyer
09-26-16, 10:43 PM
Update. There is a 11 volt potential on the Gy and 5 volt potential on the OG. So I installed diodes to isolate and all voltages correct and now only using 1 micro switch without issue. Saved $150. No chafing will occur since all wires are secure with rivets. To each his own.

ddalder
09-26-16, 11:40 PM
No chafing will occur since all wires are secure with rivets.
Interesting perspective. I'm guessing you haven't worked on much automotive wiring. Chaffing is only one example.

Regardless, your time, your car. I'm always entertained when people people re-engineer things when they don't fully understand why something was designed a particular way in the first place. It would have been so much easier to spend $4 on switches and have a fully functional system rather than something that 'may' give you unpredictable results and may well fail again when the other switch quits.

lvflyer
09-27-16, 12:52 AM
At that time I wouldn't have any choice but to replace them, but it is much more than $4 since there is minimum purchase and shipping. I could go to my local salvage yard in a few days for about $20 and get some switches from a CTS also. For the time being I can get my car safety checked and pass tomorrow to use for Uber. By the way if anyone wants their first ride free on Uber use this code for your first ride 5t2dqp85ue

mikeyc2500
10-17-16, 07:55 PM
Is anyone in this thread still willing to assemble the micro switches for the passenger door for payment? I have a 2009 STS the red led does light up when locking and unlocking. The door can only be opened from the inside and pulling the handle. Any suggestions would be helpful my wiring and electronic skills are comparable to a 5th grader the rest I can do easily.

SHADRACKL
10-21-16, 02:22 PM
Hey Folks - I am (probably) one of the few w/an '06 that's still looking at this thread for micro switch replacements :-). SO . . . I replaced the driver's door as suggested (both switches), and they worked just fine. On the PASSENGER's door - not so good (yet).

Only had 1 replacement switch left over so decided to try replacing just 1 micro switch - the other appears to work: when I depress, I hear the relay click in the door - other doesn't give a sound (at the lock) when depressed. On the DRIVER's door, I did the same test before putting all back together, and got a 'click' from both (prior to, no click from what appeared to be the 'bad' switch. I replaced BOTH - now works fine.

Not sure if the 'working' switch is still the problem or not. I soldered the replacement in (other switch wires appear to be connected fine to the switch, btw - THAT was challenging trying to get just one out and save the other) - but get I no 'click' from the new one (at the lock). I've since ordered extra replacement switches and if I can't figure out in mean time, will replace both. SO HERE's my question: Is it possible something else is troubling the door? What diagonostics would be suggested next? Tx! . .

SuperDaveSTS
10-21-16, 06:52 PM
I still have a new micro switch assembly if anyone is interested

SHADRACKL
10-21-16, 08:56 PM
FOLLOWUP TO MY PREVIOUS QUESTION -

The ''bad' switch is the one connected to the Blu and Orange wires (btw).

What's confusing me is that when I depressed that switch on the Driver's door, I heard the latch actuate. When I do so on the Passenger's door, no 'click'. When I touch the Blu & Orange wires (I disconnected the switch), I would have expected that with the circuit closed, the lock would actuate. It didn't. I tested the wires with a VOM and had a closed circuit, but no 'click' at the door latch. Not real sure where to go from here. Would appreciate any insight. Tx in advance.

Vraatzii
10-22-16, 01:09 AM
This is a good diagnostic test someone posted on here. If it isn't here I would check the actuator itself.

ddalder
10-22-16, 07:31 PM
FOLLOWUP TO MY PREVIOUS QUESTION -

The ''bad' switch is the one connected to the Blu and Orange wires (btw).

What's confusing me is that when I depressed that switch on the Driver's door, I heard the latch actuate. When I do so on the Passenger's door, no 'click'. When I touch the Blu & Orange wires (I disconnected the switch), I would have expected that with the circuit closed, the lock would actuate. It didn't. I tested the wires with a VOM and had a closed circuit, but no 'click' at the door latch. Not real sure where to go from here. Would appreciate any insight. Tx in advance.
You very likely have a faulty antenna which means replacing the door handle. If the switches are fine, that's the other common failure. In six years of ownership, I haven't replaced a single switch but I've replaced the driver's door handle at least once and the passenger at least twice. I'd have to look back, but that has always been the problem for me.

I created that testing matrix to help with diagnosing the specific fault without the need to take the door apart.

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I may reformat the matrix to make it a little easier to follow...

prettytwice
11-13-16, 03:34 PM
I ordered this switch w/ wires, but it appears that the switch housing is too long to fit in casing, any ideas?

KRDCAD
11-13-16, 05:37 PM
can you cut it down?

stevenriz
11-15-16, 12:00 PM
SuperDave, what exactly do you have? What does the assembly actually contain?