: Paint Chip / Touch-Up Paint Kit



Bullsweet
04-04-13, 12:00 PM
Hi Everyone. I got my first paint chip. :( Apparently I got it on the way to the dealer to get some repairs done and my cue update. I don't recall seeing it before I got there and I have a conspiracy theory that they put a bunch of marks on the intake form to cover themselves (he didn't show it to me when he was doing it). He showed me the form prior to leaving and according to him, my car is beat up.

Either way, I digress, I need to repair the chip; the white is really obvious in my black paint. I got the touch-up kit from the dealer. Based on the instructions it says I need to apply primer and clearcoat. When I talked to the parts guy he said the paint thing was all in one. Anybody have any experience with this? I looked online and the paint kits sold by other companies have many bottles in the kit (primer, paint, clearcoat, etc.).

I'm going to go get the clear bra soon. Since I'm only 3 months in I'd ike to limit my need to do this moving forward.

Any information is greatly appreciated.

Stevo Supremo
04-04-13, 12:15 PM
post a picture of the tube. At work when we have to adjust the hoods we touch up the bolts that have to be loosened. We brush the bolts with

"dupli-color scratch fix 2in1"

and its paint and clear coat in one, its got some priming bases as well in it.

Hoosier Daddy
04-04-13, 02:36 PM
There are two very good and easy systems for chip repair. One uses any paint and the other includes special paint. They each have their pros and cons.

Both require complete cleaning of the area to be fixed. The main advantage of both is they eliminate the blob effect you get if you just try to fill the chip with paint. One eliminates them at time of application, the other after the paint cures for a day or so. If you just dab some touch up paint into a chip you have to live with the blob that's produced or sand and polish the area which emoves some of the good surrounding paint.

The 1st is DRColorchip. You basically dab the special paint over the chips, apply a special liquid over it and then wipe off the excess. Very quick and easy. The consensus is that the paint itself is not as tough as many OEM paints so if a rock hits the exact same spot again it will chip easier than the first time. One plus in addition to the simplicity is you don't need to do a clearcoat step. This system works best for chips and not as good for scratches or areas larger than a typical rock chip.

The 2nd is the Langka system. You dab your own paint into the chips or scratches and let it dry for a day or so. At that stage it hasn't fully cured. They provide something called a blob remover which basically softens the paint enough to allow the part sticking up out of the chip to be scraped off with a straight edge (e.g. credit card) wrapped in a special cloth to minimize scuffs. The plus is you use whatever paint you want. The minuses are the time it takes to fill each chip and to wait and to scrape off the excess of almost dried paint. And if the chip is on a compound curve, you can't scrape it off properly. And lastly, it does scuff the surrounding paint which then needs to be polished.

AtlantaGuy00
04-04-13, 08:30 PM
How big is the chip and where is it? First off, I'm not good at all with chip repairs, so take what I say at face value. However, on my Black Raven DTS, with lots of rock chips on the front end, I've used the brush from the touch up paint I got at the dealer to just dab on the chip. As it dries, it shrinks and fills in ok. On the black, from 5 ft. away I can't see the repait. You CAN see it when you look closely. But that car is 6 years old. I just had glue removed from my Thurner Gray ATS, and it was straight to a professional body shop for that job.

73JPS
04-04-13, 08:43 PM
I just had glue removed from my Thunder Gray ATS, and it was straight to a professional body shop for that job.

Honestly, you need to be more careful when you are gluing your car back together: try to keep it off the paint.

Rifle and rucksack
04-04-13, 10:50 PM
While we are on the paint subject, I live in FL and the birds are just out of control here. Just yesterday I cleaned the second mess of bird poop off of my hood, the first time was on the roof. Anyway both times I cleaned it after a day and it still left a stain in my paint that won't come off. I even have the Zylon protection applied when I first bought the car. I tried to clean it with wax, even tried this McGuire's spot and scratch remover. What the hell? I have never seen bird stuff do this! Anyway any suggestions? I have black raven paint. I will probably take it back to the dealer when I get some time off work.

Bullsweet
04-05-13, 12:12 AM
post a picture of the tube. At work when we have to adjust the hoods we touch up the bolts that have to be loosened. We brush the bolts with

"dupli-color scratch fix 2in1"

and its paint and clear coat in one, its got some priming bases as well in it.

Stevo, Please see the attached pics. If there is something you'd like me to look for specifically on the bottle, please let me know.

106238106239

Hoosier Daddy
04-05-13, 12:14 AM
While we are on the paint subject, I live in FL and the birds are just out of control here. Just yesterday I cleaned the second mess of bird poop off of my hood, the first time was on the roof. Anyway both times I cleaned it after a day and it still left a stain in my paint that won't come off. I even have the Zylon protection applied when I first bought the car. I tried to clean it with wax, even tried this McGuire's spot and scratch remover. What the hell? I have never seen bird stuff do this! Anyway any suggestions? I have black raven paint. I will probably take it back to the dealer when I get some time off work.
I don't believe there is anything an owner can do to prevent that except use a modern polymer sealant.

I use Blackfire Wet Diamond but there are others. I went to it mainly for the extreme wet look it gives and tested it on one half of a new car. The other half had NXT tech wax on it. I did that to compare the gloss but before I could do the other half of the car it received a bunch of bird droppings. I cleaned them off the evening of that day but the waxed side had stains and even some etching that had to be polished out with a DA by removing the damaged top layer. The sealant side - most rinsed off with just water and a spray of instant detailer made it look like it never happened.

I've never seen these products in brick and mortar retail stores and they are pricy ($30 for a bottle) but even at that price they are very cheap to use because you use so little of it. They recomend a dime size amount per pannel. I use about a nickle size and that's usually a bit more than really needed. There are a LOT of nickle size blobs in a bottle. You can get it from the major detailer web sites. As I said there are others. I didn't try every one but tried a couple and went with Blackfire because it was easier to use. Some are very sensitive about the time they set up (so was Zaino). When I tested the Blackfire I intentionally let it cure much longer than the recomended time in one area and it was still incredibly easy to wipe off the haze.

I used to use the full Zaino system on my cars because it was very good at protecting against bird and plant stains but this stuff is probably twice as tough, plus a LOT more glossy than the Zaino.

Here's a pic of a black car roof with Blackfire on it:

106237

Bullsweet
04-05-13, 01:09 AM
Hoosier thanks for the information. I looked at the websites for both of the systems. I like the simplicity of the DRColorchip; it makes it look like it would be hard for me to mess it up. There are a number of steps with the Langka system however I can see the benefits in that system (especially since I already have paint now). I don't know I'm kind of torn. It's my hope to put a clear bra on soon so that would help to mitigate the re-chip issue with the DRColorchip but I don't know.

Which one do you prefer (or use most often)? I looked at some 'professional' places and they charge $65 for chip repair. Since its just one chip (right now) I was kind of shaking my head at that.

With the DRColorChip do you see indentions? Or is that more likely if you rub too hard?

----------


How big is the chip and where is it? First off, I'm not good at all with chip repairs, so take what I say at face value. However, on my Black Raven DTS, with lots of rock chips on the front end, I've used the brush from the touch up paint I got at the dealer to just dab on the chip. As it dries, it shrinks and fills in ok. On the black, from 5 ft. away I can't see the repait. You CAN see it when you look closely. But that car is 6 years old. I just had glue removed from my Thurner Gray ATS, and it was straight to a professional body shop for that job.

Its on the hood and its tiny. It seemed huge when I first saw it but today I had to look a little harder for it; it may have been the grey skies today because the spot is white. I've thought about taking it to a professional shop however it is one chip and I've thought about getting the clear bra. I'm curious about the systems Hoosier presented. If they limit appearance even close up I may go that route. I have concerns that the one from the dealer will look like indentions close up as it shrinks if you don't use anything else with it.

Rifle and rucksack
04-05-13, 08:40 AM
I don't believe there is anything an owner can do to prevent that except use a modern polymer sealant.

I use Blackfire Wet Diamond but there are others. I went to it mainly for the extreme wet look it gives and tested it on one half of a new car. The other half had NXT tech wax on it. I did that to compare the gloss but before I could do the other half of the car it received a bunch of bird droppings. I cleaned them off the evening of that day but the waxed side had stains and even some etching that had to be polished out with a DA by removing the damaged top layer. The sealant side - most rinsed off with just water and a spray of instant detailer made it look like it never happened.

I've never seen these products in brick and mortar retail stores and they are pricy ($30 for a bottle) but even at that price they are very cheap to use because you use so little of it. They recomend a dime size amount per pannel. I use about a nickle size and that's usually a bit more than really needed. There are a LOT of nickle size blobs in a bottle. You can get it from the major detailer web sites. As I said there are others. I didn't try every one but tried a couple and went with Blackfire because it was as tough as the other one I did trial but was easier to use. Some are very sensitive about the time they set up (so was Zaino). When I tested the Blackfire I intentionally let it cure much longer than the recomended time in one area and it was still incredibly easy to wipe off the haze.

I used to use the full Zaino system on my cars because it was very good at protecting against bird and plant stains but this stuff is probably twice as tough, plus a LOT more glossy than the Zaino.

Here's a pic of a black car roof with Blackfire on it:

<img src="http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=106237"/>

Hoosier Daddy,
Thanks for the good info. I will be searching the Internet as soon as I get off work today. I was told that the protection I bought from the dealer would prevent this and more. Guess the got me for about $500.00 or more.
Thanks again.

Hoosier Daddy
04-05-13, 09:44 AM
Which one do you prefer (or use most often)?

I haven't used Langka just researched it.


I looked at some 'professional' places and they charge $65 for chip repair. Since its just one chip (right now) I was kind of shaking my head at that.
That's undoubtedly for filling, sanding and polishing which an owner could do but it takes skill, time, equipment and supplies - and if the skill is lacking can make things worse. But done right its undetectable.


With the DRColorChip do you see indentions? Or is that more likely if you rub too hard?
Thats where technique comes in with both systems. I'd say (not having used Langka) that not filling the chip is more likely with Dr. Colorchip for the exact reasons you mentioned. But on the other side of that coin, its so easy and fast, you can go over a chip again until its ful or you master the technique of not wiping too much off. The larger the chip the more likely you will see the repair and also the more likely too much Dr Colorchip paint would get wiped off. The consensus seems to be that Langka is the best choice for larger chips (where the line is, I have no idea) but I will try Langka if I get any large chips.

----------


I was told that the protection I bought from the dealer would prevent this and more. Guess the got me for about $500.00 or more.
Sounds like you are due a refund or free repair of the bird damage. Don't those packages come with written guarantees to help the dealers sell them? Its not hard to fix your stains for a pro so they might not put up any fight. But since the package wasn't that effective, I'd start using a good sealant or adjust the diet of the local birds, whichever is easier.

Stevo Supremo
04-05-13, 10:11 AM
Stevo, Please see the attached pics. If there is something you'd like me to look for specifically on the bottle, please let me know.

106238106239

ya that's typical touch up paint dealers give, its good stuff(pretty well the same thing the plant uses), just apply it in REALLY thin thin coats and build it up. Its a Lacquer paint so dont worry about clear coating it (especially if there's going to be a polymer protectant going over it) but yeah that'll fix the chip well.

Just remember, key is REALLY THIN coats and build them up, don't take the brush out and just blob it on there. If you're feeling paranoid about it running down then use some painters tape around the chip before hand.

73JPS
04-05-13, 02:47 PM
I haven't used Langka in quite a while, however I do remember that it worked quite well, even though it was fairly time intensive. The advantage of Langka, and apropos of Steve's post, is that if you blob the paint (which is really easy to do) the system is designed to deal with that. In fact, when using Langka you are supposed to fill your chip with a "blob", IIRC.

Bullsweet
04-19-13, 10:49 AM
Thanks everyone. I think I'm going with the Langka kit (since its designed for the blob I'll likely make.

Since this post I've noticed 3 more little chips near this one. I don't drive this car that much and I've never gotten this many paint chips this easily and quickly. I've gotten more in this car than in my other car for a whole year and that car has many many miles on it (I'm an unofficial mileage tester); much less 4 months. I wonder if it's the paint job. At this rate the hood will look like it has black and white polka dots on it.

That being said I'll be touching up these chips in the next week and installing clear bra on the front and in some other areas.

mikesul
04-19-13, 01:08 PM
While we are on the paint subject, I live in FL and the birds are just out of control here. Just yesterday I cleaned the second mess of bird poop off of my hood, the first time was on the roof. Anyway both times I cleaned it after a day and it still left a stain in my paint that won't come off. I even have the Zylon protection applied when I first bought the car. I tried to clean it with wax, even tried this McGuire's spot and scratch remover. What the hell? I have never seen bird stuff do this! Anyway any suggestions? I have black raven paint. I will probably take it back to the dealer when I get some time off work.

Bird crap is acidic and can and will etch your clearcoat if left on too long. I use Rejex which is a polymer coating. It goes on and wipes off easily. But follow the directions, which a lot of people don't do, and keep the car out of the sun for 12 hours while it "cures". I have used it for years and bugs, bird crap, and even "Love bugs" wash off easily with a hose.[COLOR="Silver"]