: new breather/ oil catch can setup



runsfromdacops
04-03-13, 03:51 AM
i figured it was time to get this thing built as i have had the parts laying around for a bit.
i planed n running 5 -10 AN lines originally but cut it down to 3. i think it will be just fine with the 3 -10 AN lines.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/runsfromdacops/CTSV/20130211_165405_zps3eaebfd3.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/runsfromdacops/CTSV/20130211_200228_zpsed708269.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/runsfromdacops/CTSV/20130212_134950_zps58786fa5.jpg
it passed the water test, cant ask for alot more then that
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/runsfromdacops/CTSV/20130212_144622_zps554c5b31.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/runsfromdacops/CTSV/20130212_143630_zps53e8f61f.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/runsfromdacops/CTSV/20130402_132808_zps9c05c070.jpg
im welding on a 30amp breaker so i have to pre heat so i can weld @ 110 amps instead of 180+
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/runsfromdacops/CTSV/20130402_125725_zps0b724979.jpg
had to make a custom short back cap to get in the tight spaces.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/runsfromdacops/CTSV/20130402_135832_zps3e52af55.jpg
you can see that i added a triangle to the end of the breather that will be a PS reservoir.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/runsfromdacops/CTSV/20130402_132808_zps9c05c070.jpg
more preheating with my custom torch holder.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/runsfromdacops/CTSV/20130402_163338_zps9270f556.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/runsfromdacops/CTSV/20130402_203048_zpsd28337a7.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/runsfromdacops/CTSV/20130402_203204_zps4a818e93.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/runsfromdacops/CTSV/20130402_204725_zps5b1ac2db.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/runsfromdacops/CTSV/20130402_204744_zps2b0e7b62.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/runsfromdacops/CTSV/20130402_212732_zps3574d46a.jpg

runsfromdacops
04-03-13, 03:52 AM
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/runsfromdacops/CTSV/20130402_212732_zps3574d46a.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/runsfromdacops/CTSV/20130402_212740_zps135923f7.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/runsfromdacops/CTSV/20130402_213138_zps354767e4.jpg
i almost forgot the VCs
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/runsfromdacops/CTSV/20130401_154016_zpsa8110bc3.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/runsfromdacops/CTSV/20130401_154008_zpsbe9e0e6e.jpg

Naf
04-03-13, 05:47 AM
wow, i like your idea,

I am taking it a step lower, and creating a catch can that will lay horizontal with the fitting in through the bottom and the out from the front. Pix to follow, this way i catch the oil from the valve cover to the intake tube and when i stop and the air direction reverses, it sucks the oil back into the valve cover making it a service free catch can. Obviously fillin it with SS wool...

Nice job, and great hand in welding...

runsfromdacops
04-03-13, 05:56 AM
maybe im missunderstanding you but i dont see how that will work.

also
DO NOT PUT SS WOOL IN A CATCH CAN!!!!!!!
. little piecs will end up braking off and end up in your motor.... not at all good. thats what all the baffels are for. to take the the oil vapor out of the air before it leaves the can

PISNUOFF
04-03-13, 06:52 AM
The stainless steel wool pieces will sand down his motor internals and therefore save weight. It's all in the brilliant master plan.

lollygagger8
04-03-13, 11:46 AM
I love the welding job and it sure looks pretty, but I thought metal would transfer heat alot better?

Skidmarcx
04-03-13, 01:24 PM
That's pretty impressive... me likey

runsfromdacops
04-03-13, 04:03 PM
I love the welding job and it sure looks pretty, but I thought metal would transfer heat alot better?
im not sure exactly what you mean by this.

alum requires alot of amps (or heat) to weld. about 3 times as much as steel of the same thickness. so you can cheat the requirements a little but preheating the alum.

AAIIIC
04-03-13, 08:08 PM
Some impressive handiwork there! Obviously 2 lines go to the VCs, where does the third one go?

runsfromdacops
04-03-13, 08:25 PM
Thanks.
The 3rd line is going to valley

darkman
04-03-13, 08:33 PM
Chambers and baffles can be sufficient to seperate oil from air in some applications, such as compressed air systems, because there is a signifiicant coincidental pressure drop to facilitate the oil/air seperation. However, in a low-pressure application such as an automotive crankcase ventilation system coalescing material of some sort is typically required.

runsfromdacops
04-03-13, 09:02 PM
Chambers and baffles can be sufficient to seperate oil from air in some applications, such as compressed air systems, because there is a signifiicant coincidental pressure drop to facilitate the oil/air seperation. However, in a low-pressure application such as an automotive crankcase ventilation system coalescing material of some sort is typically required.
im sorry but thats just not true.

every catch can i have built or seen in all kinds of cars and hydroplanes have been just fine. the baffles are more then sufficient to remove to oil vapaer from the air before it leaves the can.
im sure that haveing somthing like ss wool in the can would work in place of baffles but opens up alot of other problems.

heavymetals
04-03-13, 09:12 PM
I thought baffles were to prevent sloshing around and foaming not separation unless they are heated.

darkman
04-03-13, 10:30 PM
im sorry but thats just not true.

every catch can i have built or seen in all kinds of cars and hydroplanes have been just fine. the baffles are more then sufficient to remove to oil vapaer from the air before it leaves the can.
im sure that haveing somthing like ss wool in the can would work in place of baffles but opens up alot of other problems.

I never said that ss wool should be used as coalescing material. The fact that some people build and run oil catch cans with no coalescing material does not prove that they are efficient. Afterall, oil catch cans without coalescing material will often remove some of the oil and will cause no harm.

runsfromdacops
04-03-13, 11:54 PM
Im not sure what your getting at.

If the motor can breath threw the can freely and all the oil vapor is being removed before the air leaves the can. What more can u ask for?

Naf
04-04-13, 02:51 AM
if you wash the wool out properly, no loose particles get lost inside the engine shaving the internals...and btw, most catch-cans do have ss wool in them...

darkman
04-04-13, 08:06 AM
Im not sure what your getting at.

If the motor can breath threw the can freely and all the oil vapor is being removed before the air leaves the can. What more can u ask for?

I am simply saying that without coalescing material a significant portion of the oil is remaining in the vapor that returns to the system, which is not harmful, but inconsistent the whole purpose of having an oil catch can.

lollygagger8
04-04-13, 10:36 AM
im not sure exactly what you mean by this.

alum requires alot of amps (or heat) to weld. about 3 times as much as steel of the same thickness. so you can cheat the requirements a little but preheating the alum.

I mean the engine heat heating up the aluminum a lot more than plastic....thus making the air "hotter" inside the air intake box for the engine to suck in.

Skidmarcx
04-04-13, 12:53 PM
Aluminum has a low resistivity, so it doesn't build heat as easy as other metals like iron

silentwig
04-04-13, 02:00 PM
Looks like a lot of busy work/waste of time. Good job on the fab work.

lollygagger8
04-08-13, 09:32 AM
Aluminum has a low resistivity, so it doesn't build heat as easy as other metals like iron

I realize that, but is it lower than plastic?