: Help! Stripped Motor Mount Bolt!



FuzzyLogic
04-01-13, 03:55 AM
Hey guys--it's 4 AM here and I'm stymied by the last motor mount bolt on the driver's side (upper left quadrant). I wrecked two sockets (one 15mm 12 point and one 15mm 6 point) and I doubt that buying another 6 point will solve this situation.

Am I down to hammering on a 14mm socket, or do you have another idea?

darkman
04-01-13, 06:49 AM
Are you using impact sockets?

AAIIIC
04-01-13, 09:11 AM
Pick up a set of those stripped nut/bolt remover sockets? Something like this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-Piece-3-8-Drive-SAE-Bolt-Extractor-Sockets-/121081576375#vi-content) (those are SAE rather than metric, but you get the idea) - should be able to get them at any auto parts place or HD/Lowe's or Sears.

Either that or vice grips, but I don't know if there's enough room that you'd be able to get the vice grips on there well and be able to put some torque on them.

izcain
04-01-13, 11:13 AM
hammering on a socket sometimes will do the trick as well but looks like you already had that idea

darkman
04-01-13, 01:55 PM
I am still trying figure out how you "wreck" a six-point, tool-steel socket with a grade 8 bolt.

Bacon V
04-01-13, 01:56 PM
I am still trying figure out how you "wreck" a six-point, tool-steel socket with a grade 8 bolt.

Harbor freight sockets?

FuzzyLogic
04-01-13, 03:01 PM
Thanks for the input. I think my only recourse at this point is to wait until I pull the motor and weld a socket to the bolt to get it out.

Thus far I've tried using a brand new 6-point 15mm hardened impact wrench socket, after spraying penetrating oil on the bolt and waiting 45 minutes for it to soak in, and hammering a 12-point 14mm socket onto the bolt.

Btw, the "rounded bolt" sockets kits (or at least the one I tried, which was endorsed by Popular Mechanics) seem to be too flimsy for this kind of stuff--for instance, the amount of torque I've been exerting on my 3', 3/8" extension has been twisting its metal shaft by over 90 degrees.

darkman
04-01-13, 03:14 PM
Thanks for the input. I think my only recourse at this point is to wait until I pull the motor and weld a socket to the bolt to get it out.

Thus far I've tried using a brand new 6-point 15mm hardened impact wrench socket, after spraying penetrating oil on the bolt and waiting 45 minutes for it to soak in, and hammering a 12-point 14mm socket onto the bolt.

Btw, the "rounded bolt" sockets kits (or at least the one I tried, which was endorsed by Popular Mechanics) seem to be too flimsy for this kind of stuff--for instance, the amount of torque I've been exerting on my 3', 3/8" extension has been twisting its metal shaft by over 90 degrees. The 3' 3/8" extension is killing your effort - very little the torque is actually reaching the socket because that extension is acting like a torque stick. It would help to use a 1/2" extension for most of the "reach" even with an adapter at the end to use a 3/8 socket (if you can't get a 1/2 inch socket on it).

FuzzyLogic
04-01-13, 03:55 PM
The 3' 3/8" extension is killing your effort - very little the torque is actually reaching the socket because that extension is acting like a torque stick. It would help to use a 1/2" extension for most of the "reach" even with an adapter at the end to use a 3/8 socket (if you can't get a 1/2 inch socket on it).

I've actually sheared 3/8" drive . . . pretty much everything. I gave it one more try--hammered the 14mm on there all the way up to motor, smoothly cranked it over with my breaker bar, and when it popped, the socket almost perfectly rounded off the bolt. No rotation on the bolt (blue paint still lined up with the motor).

I'm actually starting to doubt whether it *can* be removed. That bolt might as well be welded there. I've already confirmed that there's no load on the motor mounts--the lower end of the motor mount can be freely moved. I would try to drill out the bolt, but I'd have to resleeve the opening, since a countersink would not be sufficient to help remove the bolt shaft.

I'll probably leave one Creative Steel mount on the passenger side and the OEM mount on the other side. Added compression resistance on the passenger side should help prevent the driver's side mount from shearing.

----------

Hey, out of curiosity, do you think I'll have problems pulling the motor out with one of the mounts still attached to the motor?

pato
04-01-13, 05:27 PM
That's what you get when you have an electrical engineer do a mechanic's job. :bigroll:












































:lol: at all the suckers.

NCOGNITO
04-01-13, 11:58 PM
Sucks man, sorry to hear. I know you typically try to cram a marathon upgrade on the weekends when it gets warmer in your area. I hate having to stay up all night to try to get things buttoned up, hope you get it figured out.

FuzzyLogic
04-02-13, 12:05 AM
Sucks man, sorry to hear. I know you typically try to cram a marathon upgrade on the weekends when it gets warmer in your area. I hate having to stay up all night to try to get things buttoned up, hope you get it figured out.

Unfortunately, I'll have to drive on one Creative Steel mount and one stock motor mount, but the good thing is that my stock mounts are in great condition (26k miles). I also rewrapped my headers with DEI titanium, installed new header gaskets, new bolts, prepped for the KW Variant 3 installation, and installed the Addco front sway bar. If I'm not feeling sleepy tonight, I may attempt the Revshift coupler installation, although I'm a little afraid of messing with that without having allocated time to shim the transmission mount in the event I experience vibration.

Has anyone ever installed the Revshift driveshaft coupler and not had any issues?

DWF0551
04-02-13, 11:06 AM
I've had a lot of luck heating stuck bolts with a torch to loosen them up. Not sure how this would work on an aluminum block but it may be worth a try. And I agree use 1/2' tools.

sssnake
04-02-13, 12:15 PM
I've had a lot of luck heating stuck bolts with a torch to loosen them up. Not sure how this would work on an aluminum block but it may be worth a try. And I agree use 1/2' tools.

I'd give it a shot with map gas instead of propane. I can't imagine why that bolt is so tough. All mine came out easily.

Andringa
04-02-13, 12:19 PM
Are you putting constant pressure on it with a breaker bar? I seem to remember being able to get the impact wrench to all of those bolts with the right extensions. Impact > constant pressure when trying to break something loose.

Edit: Just rescanned the post, if you rounded it off already you are probably SOL until you pull the engine.

JDB
04-02-13, 02:26 PM
Silly question.... you took the weight off of the mounts/brackets, by jacking up the motor, right?

CRC Freeze Off?

FuzzyLogic
04-02-13, 02:51 PM
I took the weight off the mounts by jacking up the motor from the forward edge of the oil pan (where it's the strongest). Never tried freeze off.

Bacon V
04-02-13, 03:29 PM
not sure if it would reach, but you could try an extra long (12-18") drill bit and maybe an extender to drill the head off the bolt. Chances are you wouldnt get the stud out afterwards, but whats worse, running 3 bolts on both drivers side and passenger side, or two different MMs?

Something like this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-12-in-Arbor-Extender-31678/203499096#.UVsxDpOG01g

Coupled with this:
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/tools/metal-fabrication/Drill-Bits/import-29-64-inch-extra-long-drill-bit-12-inch-long?utm_source=google_pr&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Drill-Bits-google_pr&infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=CK7a8-XbrLYCFY1aMgodZDkAqw

FuzzyLogic
04-02-13, 06:13 PM
not sure if it would reach, but you could try an extra long (12-18") drill bit and maybe an extender to drill the head off the bolt. Chances are you wouldnt get the stud out afterwards, but whats worse, running 3 bolts on both drivers side and passenger side, or two different MMs?

Thanks for the tip--I'll see what I can do.

As a quick thank you to those of you who helped, I snapped a quick pic when the sun popped out:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/QuicksilverG4/DSC00481_cropped.jpg

Filthy as it is, it's amazing how hard it is to make these cars look bad. Also, even with one Creative Steel motor mount, the throttle response is significantly better. Much crisper, although I'm definitely feeling some NVH due to its 87A hardness. When/if these mounts crap out, I'll definitely switch to 80A Revshift motor mounts. Shame that they didn't pay a bounty for their competitors' products. ;)

Also, I installed the Addco 2290 front sway bar--it's a BEAST. Coming from the Hotchkis sway bar (which is already pretty stiff), I was impressed by how super flat the body stayed through 1 G+ corners. Unfortunately, the clearance between the Addco 2290 and the FG2 shock body is nearly zero. Here's to hoping that the KW Variant 3 shock body isn't thicker. If it is, I'm going to have to go back to the Hotchkis.