: Service Brake System



Asguard726
03-22-13, 12:48 AM
Well, at exactly 49,500 on my 09's odometer in moderate traffic this morning I got the following messages in a row;
Service Brake system, Service Stabilitrac system, Service traction control system. The red brake light came on as well
as an annoying bing, bing, bing, and the Stabilitrac light. Once I released the brake pedal it would all go away and no
messages would appear. This happened several times though the brakes felt normal to me. I decided to go on to the
dealer since I was not to far away. I've no idea what would cause this and will be very interested to find out what they
say is the cause. I'll be sure to report my findings to the forum so stay tuned...in the mean time the gave me a new fully loaded SRX with the cue system, I am really liking it

Cadillac Cust Svc
03-22-13, 01:20 PM
Asguard, please do keep us in the loop! I'm sorry you experienced this frustration! If you would like any assistance working with your dealer, please send me a private message.

Best,

Katie
Cadillac Customer Service

big greg
03-22-13, 01:24 PM
Sounds like a bad wheel sensor to me

Asguard726
03-23-13, 01:45 AM
Turns out one of the brake lines had a hole in it and system was losing fluid and pressure. It was covered under warranty with no trouble.

Dan

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I forgot to mention that the loaner car had the newer lane departure warning system. Every time you cross a pavement stripe
you get a buzz from the seat bottom. Left or right cheek depending on which side you crossed. I was quite "stimulated" by the time I
got back to the dealer ;-)

Dan

Cadillac Shawn
03-27-13, 12:35 PM
Well, at exactly 49,500 on my 09's odometer in moderate traffic this morning I got the following messages in a row;
Service Brake system, Service Stabilitrac system, Service traction control system. The red brake light came on as well
as an annoying bing, bing, bing, and the Stabilitrac light. Once I released the brake pedal it would all go away and no
messages would appear. This happened several times though the brakes felt normal to me. I decided to go on to the
dealer since I was not to far away. I've no idea what would cause this and will be very interested to find out what they
say is the cause. I'll be sure to report my findings to the forum so stay tuned...in the mean time the gave me a new fully loaded SRX with the cue system, I am really liking it

Yeh, I'd like to know the answer to this too! Took off work today for my birthday, and came home last night expecting an early night out to celebrate after work. On the way home at around 8:15 the thud thud thud thud starts to find a piece of someone's fender splash guard, screw bracket and nice long ass screw in my tire. I go to unscrew it and I hear air. So I drove on it with the screw back in to hold the air for about 5 miles till it flew out. Then tire dropped fast. Nursed it on the shoulder for about a half mile at 6mph on the shoulder to get to the lighted mall. The Cadillac dealer I bought it from last year today on my birthday didn't replace the trunk light and I haven't replaced it because I don't know what light to get cause there is none. So I get to the mall lot with light, put the spare on. Apparently the Cadillac dealer I bought it from also forgot to put air in the spare. So I'm now nursing the spare up the shoulder to a gas station with AIR! Enjoying how this night's starting so far!? I get air, get the car home, put a plug in my michelin and put the tire back on. Now it seems the tire's leaking air. About a pound every few hours. Figure it's around the bead from driving on it. So I get changed and go out. Get five miles away, realize my wallet fell out of my pants on the floor while on the toilet before leaving. Drive home. Get my wallet. SWEAR I'm heading out to celebrate my birthday come hell or high water! I get to Baltimore city and the SAME warning light with chime comes on. I'm like, ''WHAT'S NEXT GOD!!? ANYTHING ELSE YOU WANT TO BLESS ME WITH TONIGHT!?'' :mad:

My chime went off but when I had the tire off, the brake pads looked like they had some left. Who knows. It was dark.

If I change out my brakes and rotors, my question is, how in the hell do you get the rotor off and push that caliper back!? The pads just swing out of the way if I recall on this type of brakes but not far enough to pull the rotor. I had probs with that on my other car. Had to take the whole assembly apart to get the rotor off. The caliper, I hear it screws in? With what? A screw driver? And the light, is that just brake fluid? Any vid on Youtube would be great. Or explanation would be nice. Any cards with money, gifts or balloons would be icing on my cake.

Speaking of which, not a card, flowers or balloon, two years in a row now from my 82 year old mother since I turned 50 last year. She said she didn't get one because she hasn't been out of the house lately.

Guess that frees me up for my obligations on mothers day this year.

Superjim
03-27-13, 03:42 PM
Why change the rotors if you haven't had any trouble with them??
First thing to do is check the electrical plug that plugs into the hub.
That may have got damaged or pulled loose when during all the tire problems.

The calipers on the front are easy to push back... the ones on the rear "SCREW" in... you can use a sturdy pair of needle nose or get the special socket from AUTO ZONE.

Brake pads are super easy to change.

Cadillac Shawn
03-27-13, 04:44 PM
Why change the rotors if you haven't had any trouble with them??

The calipers on the front are easy to push back... the ones on the rear "SCREW" in... you can use a sturdy pair of needle nose or get the special socket from AUTO ZONE.

I change rotors rather than turn them. You don't put new pads on with out resurfacing your rotors and considering resurfacing costs are more than new rotors I just get new rotors and toss the old one's. Calipers on the front are NOT easy to push back. I've used a C clamp and bent the bar on it trying to push them back. There has to be an easier way. As to the rear, I'll have to look when I do the brakes this spring when the weather warms up. So tell me how to push the front one's back? You are saying the rear SCREWS in? Is that clockwise or counter clockwise?

MoistCabbage
03-27-13, 05:30 PM
That must have been a REALLY crappy C clamp.

Remove the master cylinder cover before pressing the caliper piston back in. You can loosen the bleed bolt as well if you want.

Yes, the rear caliper pistons MUST be turned in (clockwise). The tool is called a brake cube, but as posted, needle nose pliers work too.

Superjim
03-27-13, 05:51 PM
I change rotors rather than turn them. You don't put new pads on with out resurfacing your rotors and considering resurfacing costs are more than new rotors I just get new rotors and toss the old one's. Calipers on the front are NOT easy to push back. I've used a C clamp and bent the bar on it trying to push them back. There has to be an easier way. As to the rear, I'll have to look when I do the brakes this spring when the weather warms up. So tell me how to push the front one's back? You are saying the rear SCREWS in? Is that clockwise or counter clockwise?

I usually use a medium size screwdriver to push the piston back.
Take the cap off of the master cylinder.
Gently wedge the screwdriver in between the pad and the rotor "BEFORE" taking the pads or caliper off.
Apply steady, gentle pressure and the piston will slowly go back.
Remember to keep the POINT of the screwdriver towards the pad... not the rotor.
Then you don't put deep scratches in the rotor.

Been doing it that way for over 30 years...
Rear caliper pistons turn in CLOCKWISE...

Asguard726
03-28-13, 12:57 AM
Cadillac Shawn,
Seems like you have a little black cloud following you around for your birthday. I hope you get everything sorted in time to do
at least a little bit of celebrating. Meanwhile I recommend staying away from black cats, mirrors, and ...dynamite manufacturing plants!
Cheers,
Dan

Cadillac Shawn
03-28-13, 03:53 AM
Cadillac Shawn,
Seems like you have a little black cloud following you around for your birthday. I hope you get everything sorted in time to do
at least a little bit of celebrating. Meanwhile I recommend staying away from black cats, mirrors, and ...dynamite manufacturing plants!
Cheers,
Dan

LOL, yep pretty much. The opposite of Apple's iCloud... I have a bCloud...

As to a cheap C clamp, I pulled the top cap off my master cylinder on my mother's 1999 Deville and used a set of pads against the caliper and used my late great father's WWII era pure steel, 15lbs C clamp and bent the rod that turns the handle. Opened the bleeder just a tad so it wouldn't get air but under force the liquid came out and pushed them back that way but it took me for ever and was next to impossible. Don't want that ever again.

Got the brake warning light again today. So first warm day I'll be pulling the tire off to look for the lose plug. I have to get under the car and change out the O2 sensor behind the cadi converter so I can check it soon... and I have a transmission line that's leaking so I have to pay someone to fix that.

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Any help on how to pull the rotors? do I have to take off the whole assembly like I did last time? Or is there a trick too it? Last time I yanked the entire caliper bracket etc off to get the rotor off.

MoistCabbage
03-28-13, 09:24 AM
As to a cheap C clamp, I pulled the top cap off my master cylinder on my mother's 1999 Deville and used a set of pads against the caliper and used my late great father's WWII era pure steel, 15lbs C clamp and bent the rod that turns the handle. Opened the bleeder just a tad so it wouldn't get air but under force the liquid came out and pushed them back that way but it took me for ever and was next to impossible. Don't want that ever again.If it took that much force, the caliper is seized.


Any help on how to pull the rotors? do I have to take off the whole assembly like I did last time? Or is there a trick too it? Last time I yanked the entire caliper bracket etc off to get the rotor off.Yes, the caliper and bracket must be removed.

Superjim
03-28-13, 10:10 AM
To remove the rotor on the DTS...
Remove the complete caliper...
Remove the TORX screw in the rotor...
Rotor will then just slide off of the wheel studs...
.
.
.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/superjim1944/Hub%20Bearing/20120408_110702.jpg

Cadillac Shawn
03-29-13, 02:06 AM
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If it took that much force, the caliper is seized.

If the caliper was seized, then would pushing it back with the clamp free it up? It seems to be braking fine now...

MoistCabbage
03-29-13, 11:22 AM
Not necessarily. It may only be "sticky" farther in it's travel, but personally, I would have replaced it.