: Terrible sound with the LPE Solid Isolator Coupler. See before and after video



topend22
03-12-13, 02:39 PM
Hi Guys, I get this terrible sound with the LPE Solid Isolator Coupler. SEE Before and After Video. Have any of you had this issue? I have see in some posts that the LPE Solid Isolator had a bad bach that were to tight causing bearings to fail. Luckly I took mine right back out and put the stock on in. Take a listen and let me know what you think??

Stock GM Spring Isolator Coupler. http://youtu.be/O8kw9N3rBkE

LPE Solid Isolator Coupler. http://youtu.be/WPGuYc7s7T0

----------

Des my car sound normal? http://youtu.be/O8kw9N3rBkE

wait4me
03-12-13, 03:08 PM
Ok I see what is going on. glad you figured it out.

The sound in the supercharger now sounds ok, it will be a little louder because of the metal intake you are using is amplifying the noise. No big deal.

As for the isolator, they probably just didn't hog out the holes enough to make it slide on easy so it was putting side load on the bearings. Put some lube on the inside holes, or just have them make it just a hair larger on the holes. Then it will work.

topend22
03-12-13, 04:29 PM
Jessie, can I drill out the holes one size larger? and put some lube? Let me know, thanks for your help, your a great man. the other posted duplicated posts i was trying to delete.

wait4me
03-12-13, 04:43 PM
Another thing to check is, make sure the isolator itself is not to thick, I saw a few recently that where to thick causing a sandwich effect and forcing bearings tight. Measure the stock one vs your solid one.

topend22
03-12-13, 05:08 PM
Another thing to check is, make sure the isolator itself is not to thick, I saw a few recently that where to thick causing a sandwich effect and forcing bearings tight. Measure the stock one vs your solid one.

I just checked what you said, it goes on but very snug. should i drill the holes just a 32nd of an inch larger so it sits in there smooth and not tight?

wait4me
03-12-13, 05:36 PM
I would just contact the place you purchased from and have them fix it.

topend22
03-12-13, 06:38 PM
I would just contact the place you purchased from and have them fix it.

that would be LPE, they said they NEVER had any issues in the past and sold thousands of them but they will sent me out a new one. So i really dont know. What exactly is the noise? is it the just normal noise you will get with a blower running at high boost with a metal pipe? I just dont want to do any bearing damage.

----------

I did put the LPE one back in with some lube and its just about as good as the stock one now, but i still hear the whine. but i am in the garage too with echo, I just dont want to hurt anything by running thr solid coupler. What are your thoughts? Also, do you have bearings in stock? should I pick up a set of extra bearings incase these wear out?

wait4me
03-12-13, 07:10 PM
If it is better with the lube, then just keep running it, it will break in.

topend22
03-12-13, 07:33 PM
Jessie, I just used WD 40 can u please tell me what lube you would use and also, what does the lube make it sound normal?

wetcoast
03-13-13, 02:42 AM
I'm glad u posted. Mine's doing the same thing and I haven't had a chance to take it back apart. It went on real snug and squealed.

topend22
03-13-13, 12:03 PM
Can you post a you tube video of how it sounds or email at mike.maslowsky@gmail.com I will respond with a document I found on our snouts and bearings and things to check.

wetcoast
03-13-13, 12:25 PM
No, I won't be near my car for at least another week. I doubt there's anything wrong with my snout/bearing cause I haven't driven it since I put the isolator in last fall.

topend22
03-13-13, 07:37 PM
So you think it's just the isolater

wetcoast
03-14-13, 01:02 AM
Here's a post from the other site that sheds some light. I might have a sleeve machined like this other guy.

"
Take a look inside the LSA snout before you begin modifications

In the jpeg the screen shot shows a sectioned view of the LSA snout.
Left to right there is the drive pulley (green); a double row angular contact bearing (wide); a single row deep groove ball bearing (narrow); the hub (blue) with drive pins (gray). Down thru it all is the shaft (green).

The installation of the angular contact bearing is the first and most important step. It is must be seated against the shoulder in the housing bore, pressed in with pressure on the outer race only. A quick check to verify that it is seated is the outer bearing race should be 2 mm (+/- 0.1) from the face of the housing. This bearing handles the axial as well the radial loads and (with the pulley installed) maintains the position of the shaft assembly. If the position is not correct the rest of the shaft assembly will be off.

The next step is to press the shaft assembly into the housing and bearing in the same operation. The inner race of the angular contact bearing must be supported during this operation if not it can be damaged, moved or the bearings (wide and narrow) can be preloaded. The shaft assembly is pressed to seat the shoulder of the shaft against the inner race of the angular contact bearing. You can verify this by checking the 22.9 dimension (below). Or by the length of shaft protruding from the angular contact bearing, this should measure 29 (+/- 0.5).

The last operation is pressing the drive pulley onto the shaft. The (blue) hub face must be supported when pressing the pulley on, if not the angular contact bearing will be damaged. A machined tube works best (14.1 ID x 28 OD x 28 L ) it clears the drive pins and protruding shaft. You can use a bearing heater to warm the hub, it will help reduce the press force required. Don't remove material from the shaft diameter or pulley bore to make it easier to press on.

Quick check things after work has been done by someone else:
*If you want to do a quick check if the work has been done correctly. Even if the pulley is installed and the snout is mounted on the SC you can see if this part is OK. And it's easy, if it is still there remove the plastic cap from the hub of the SC drive pulley. The end of the shaft (the pulley is pressed onto) should be flush to slightly shy of the pulley hub face. If the shaft face is more than 1 mm down from the hub face it's likely care was not taken during the swap.

*If you got the snout assembly back from a shop with the pulley installed you can check as above and check another dimension. Another point to measure is from the coupling hub face (blue, far right) to the face of the housing that mates to the SC. This is the most important dimension to check. This should measure 22. 9 mm (+/- 0.5). Less than 22.4 is a little to be concerned with but if it's more than 23.4 be sure it pressed in all the way. When this hub sticks out more than designed it will leave less room between the face of the mating hub in the SC. The coupling that is in between can be pinched between the two hubs. The result is high bearing preload, excessive heat, premature bearing failure, and (worst case) the rotors are pushed back into the SC housing.

105161

A word of caution regarding after market couplings and pulleys:
Yes the OEM couplings may be noisy and the spring tends to wear into the center shaft.
(Mine has never been noisy but it was worn. I machined mine and installed a needle bearing race over the shaft. (they're heat treated) I have a shiny spot on the race and on the spring coils but no grooves after 10K miles.
Keep in mind they are designed to handle radial and axial misalignment between the snout hub and pins to the SC hub and pins. The tolerances can and do stack up and the thermal expansion/contraction of the entire assembly has to be considered. Something has to be compliant. It's the coupling!
Check out couplings available, Google "shaft couplings", there's a bazillion of them. The majority are designed for a little or a lot of shaft misalignment. And they are speed rated and de-rated based on misalignment. Yes there are a boat load of solid coupling as well. Read the requirements for shaft alignment for a solid couple. It's tight and tighter as the speeds increase and the (shaft) supporting bearings get closer to the coupling points. Keep all this in mind as you continue to increase the overdrive percentage of the SC.

My point......Be very careful if you decide to switch to a solid coupling there is more to be concerned with than just the fit on the (6) drive pins!


Drive pulleys:
IMO drive pulleys that have been pinned to the shaft are reason for concern. The OEM pulley/shaft combinations are ALL interference fitted they don't need to be pinned. Any shop that uses or recommends pins either can't hold the tolerances and/or doesn't trust their own work. Beyond that an 1/8" dowel pin will not help if the fit is not correct.
"

baabootoo
03-15-13, 12:26 AM
Let us know how the new LPE one is working.

topend22
03-15-13, 12:41 PM
Will do.

Moparman4444
03-15-13, 03:32 PM
I had the exact same problem in my 2009. I had the same amount of noise both with and without the CAI. The hard CAI tube made no appreciable differance in the sound. I never thought to look at the solid isolator.

topend22
03-16-13, 11:24 AM
Mopar, what did you end up doing. I have done enough research to understand that it is defiantly the coupler and even thou I am running the LPE coupler I am going to have a customer machined coupler made with elastic in between so that both the pulley and the blower an handle the torque. GM had the right idea with the spring to help with the sudden torque of the blower pins but made a bad design. The solid coupler is a much quieter design but is actually harming the connection to the blower and pulley. It puts a ton of stress at that point and something is eventually going to give way and it won't be the coupler. That's why GM put the spring in there,however there are much better designs. Google "coupler" and you will find a zillion other much better designs for lining up 2 shafts for high RPM and high toque.

Moparman4444
03-16-13, 02:39 PM
Mike

I ended up selling the car and the new owner totaled out the car on the freeway. So sad.

But I looked at a possible bearing failure and ruled that out after disassembling the unit. I never thought the coupler could be making that much noise. The stock coupler actually rubs away at the shaft itself. With less than 10,000 miles I was fearful the shaft would be ground in half. Sounds extreme, but you should see how much wear there was.

topend22
03-17-13, 12:35 PM
Ok I see what is going on. glad you figured it out.

The sound in the supercharger now sounds ok, it will be a little louder because of the metal intake you are using is amplifying the noise. No big deal.

As for the isolator, they probably just didn't hog out the holes enough to make it slide on easy so it was putting side load on the bearings. Put some lube on the inside holes, or just have them make it just a hair larger on the holes. Then it will work.

Jessie, I am thinking of picking up aset of bearrings just in case. I hear that you have them for sale. Is this true?