: Oil Pump and Timing Set Replaced along with Oil Cooler Lines Vortec 6.0



jnrsesv
03-11-13, 10:29 AM
Well gentlemen, I spent the majority of my weekend on my back replacing the oil pump, timing chain and gears and the oil cooler lines. Our vehicle is a 2005 ESV Platinum 6.0 AWD with 168,358 miles at the time of these procedures.

Sorry no write up with pics this time my camera took a poop on me, bummer. I will say that the jobs are pretty labor intensive, in all I would say about 12~13 solid hours, I lost track of time and add alot more time for rusted siezed bolts. Our vehicle is southern and all the bolts look like new. You will need a manual or I use alldatadiy.

With the AWD or 4x4 vehicles you will have to drop the front differential, it does not have to be totally removed but lowered. A hint here (which you will NOT find anywhere on the internet) is to turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. By doing so the diff. will drop an additional 2" which is needed to remove oil pan.

The harmonic balancer can be pulled with the standard 4"/6" 3 pronged (fingered) gear puller. Hint on putting harmonic balancer back on crankshaft without the special tool (a longer bolt) is I used a heat gun (an oven would work to) to heat up the balancer and tap it on until the balancer bolt catches a couple of threads. This bolt is TIGHT coming off and going back on, I would highly recommend a good 1/2" impact.

You will need the special tool for removing the lower timing gear, DO NOT attempt to "worry about the tool" until you have your vehicle torn apart, you will be bumming! Have the tool on hand before removing the first bolt! Also a side note if you are thinking of upgrading your timing set to the double roller style, I have learned that you will have to modify the timing cover. I went with the standard gear set because of that reason.

The reason I replaced the oil pump is that over the past month, I would cold start the vehicle and hear a slight lifter tick for a quick second that gradually got longer and the oil pressure gauge would take a second to show it was pressurized. You will read that a very common failure is a red o-ring (on our vehicle) located at oil the oil pick up tube and the oil pump, failing causing this problem and also eventually total loss of oil pressure. My o-ring was intact but very, very brittle, when I touched it to remove it cracked in half with just a slight touch. I will post a picture when we get a new camera. There is a youtube video of a couple of guys that replaced the oil pump without removing the oil pan that did not look like fun either (just FYI).

As for the oil cooler lines, there is some discussion here cadillacforums.com and on the internet that these lines develope leaks. Some have solved the leaking by using radiator clamps, quick and easy. I had a very slight leak on one so I decided to replace them (they come as 1 unit). With the front diff. lowered it took about 15 minutes to replace the lines, most of that time was trying to figure out the quick connect clips at the radiator side. Others have stated that it takes 6~9 hours (I don't believe it) and $500.00 in labor to replace without the diff. lowered and oil pan removed.

I am however very pleasantly suprised the internals of the engine and oil pan where clean, clean, clean no signs, -zero-of sludge or anyother build up. For the past 160,000 miles the vehicles oil has been 5W30 Full Synthetic. The engine internals have an orangish tint though, kinda weird.

That sums it up, if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

wesyder
03-11-13, 02:49 PM
Well gentlemen, I spent the majority of my weekend on my back replacing the oil pump, timing chain and gears and the oil cooler lines. Our vehicle is a 2005 ESV Platinum 6.0 AWD with 168,358 miles at the time of these procedures.

Sorry no write up with pics this time my camera took a poop on me, bummer. I will say that the jobs are pretty labor intensive, in all I would say about 12~13 solid hours, I lost track of time and add alot more time for rusted siezed bolts. Our vehicle is southern and all the bolts look like new. You will need a manual or I use alldatadiy.

With the AWD or 4x4 vehicles you will have to drop the front differential, it does not have to be totally removed but lowered. A hint here (which you will NOT find anywhere on the internet) is to turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. By doing so the diff. will drop an additional 2" which is needed to remove oil pan.

The harmonic balancer can be pulled with the standard 4"/6" 3 pronged (fingered) gear puller. Hint on putting harmonic balancer back on crankshaft without the special tool (a longer bolt) is I used a heat gun (an oven would work to) to heat up the balancer and tap it on until the balancer bolt catches a couple of threads. This bolt is TIGHT coming off and going back on, I would highly recommend a good 1/2" impact.

You will need the special tool for removing the lower timing gear, DO NOT attempt to "worry about the tool" until you have your vehicle torn apart, you will be bumming! Have the tool on hand before removing the first bolt! Also a side note if you are thinking of upgrading your timing set to the double roller style, I have learned that you will have to modify the timing cover. I went with the standard gear set because of that reason.

The reason I replaced the oil pump is that over the past month, I would cold start the vehicle and hear a slight lifter tick for a quick second that gradually got longer and the oil pressure gauge would take a second to show it was pressurized. You will read that a very common failure is a red o-ring (on our vehicle) located at oil the oil pick up tube and the oil pump, failing causing this problem and also eventually total loss of oil pressure. My o-ring was intact but very, very brittle, when I touched it to remove it cracked in half with just a slight touch. I will post a picture when we get a new camera. There is a youtube video of a couple of guys that replaced the oil pump without removing the oil pan that did not look like fun either (just FYI).

As for the oil cooler lines, there is some discussion here cadillacforums.com and on the internet that these lines develope leaks. Some have solved the leaking by using radiator clamps, quick and easy. I had a very slight leak on one so I decided to replace them (they come as 1 unit). With the front diff. lowered it took about 15 minutes to replace the lines, most of that time was trying to figure out the quick connect clips at the radiator side. Others have stated that it takes 6~9 hours (I don't believe it) and $500.00 in labor to replace without the diff. lowered and oil pan removed.

I am however very pleasantly suprised the internals of the engine and oil pan where clean, clean, clean no signs, -zero-of sludge or anyother build up. For the past 160,000 miles the vehicles oil has been 5W30 Full Synthetic. The engine internals have an orangish tint though, kinda weird.

That sums it up, if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

Glad to hear it worked out

Black88GTA
03-14-13, 12:19 AM
The reason I replaced the oil pump is that over the past month, I would cold start the vehicle and hear a slight lifter tick for a quick second that gradually got longer and the oil pressure gauge would take a second to show it was pressurized. You will read that a very common failure is a red o-ring (on our vehicle) located at oil the oil pick up tube and the oil pump, failing causing this problem and also eventually total loss of oil pressure. My o-ring was intact but very, very brittle, when I touched it to remove it cracked in half with just a slight touch. I will post a picture when we get a new camera. There is a youtube video of a couple of guys that replaced the oil pump without removing the oil pan that did not look like fun either (just FYI).

Thanks for the write up! How hard is it to replace that red O-ring on the pickup without dropping the pan? What components need to come out? My oil pressure (as indicated on the factory gauge) has dropped noticeably since I got the truck. It now sits at about 1/4 while at idle - when I got it, it idled midway between the 1st mark and halfway. I suspect the ring. I'm not noticing any ticking or delay in oil pressure coming up though.

wesyder
03-14-13, 12:59 AM
Thanks for the write up! How hard is it to replace that red O-ring on the pickup without dropping the pan? What components need to come out? My oil pressure (as indicated on the factory gauge) has dropped noticeably since I got the truck. It now sits at about 1/4 while at idle - when I got it, it idled midway between the 1st mark and halfway. I suspect the ring. I'm not noticing any ticking or delay in oil pressure coming up though.

You must drop the pan thats where the pickup is

Black88GTA
03-14-13, 01:33 AM
You must drop the pan thats where the pickup is

I know the pickup is in the pan, but I understand you can remove the oil pump without dropping the pan, and that's where the pickup connects and also where the O-ring is located. My thought was to remove the pump, pull the pickup out, replace O-ring, reinstall pump, done. I just don't know if there's a reason this won't work. I'd much rather do it this way if I could than drop the front diff and pan.

jnrsesv
03-14-13, 06:39 AM
There is one bolt that is very difficult to remove that holds the pick up tube to the oil pump. The bolt is located under the oil pump.

The problem is you can loosen the bolt BUT it is a very tight area. The bolt extends into the front of the oil pan when fully backed out of the oil pump.

As stated in the OP, I had found one video on youtube that a couple of guys stuffed a rag into the front of the oil pan (supposedly) to prevent the bolt dropping into the oil pan when backed out of the oil pump. They used a bent pair of needle nosed pliers to get the bolt out. The video really does not show full detail and is edited, the guys say that it is a PIA though.

Most likely your problem is the o-ring. How many miles on your vehicle?

icaddy
03-14-13, 08:28 AM
I did the same thing months ago. I had to drop the pan in order to change oil pump.

jnrsesv
03-14-13, 09:02 AM
icaddy, how long did it take you from start to finish?

Black88GTA
03-14-13, 01:20 PM
There is one bolt that is very difficult to remove that holds the pick up tube to the oil pump. The bolt is located under the oil pump.

The problem is you can loosen the bolt BUT it is a very tight area. The bolt extends into the front of the oil pan when fully backed out of the oil pump.

As stated in the OP, I had found one video on youtube that a couple of guys stuffed a rag into the front of the oil pan (supposedly) to prevent the bolt dropping into the oil pan when backed out of the oil pump. They used a bent pair of needle nosed pliers to get the bolt out. The video really does not show full detail and is edited, the guys say that it is a PIA though.

Most likely your problem is the o-ring. How many miles on your vehicle?

Hmm. Seems doable, but yeah, a giant pain. The truck is just turning over 181k miles, and I've got a pretty good feeling that O-ring hasn't been replaced. I think it's on my list of things to do this spring. I'll definitely have to look up that video when I've got some time. You wouldn't happen to have a part number for that ring handy would you? No big deal if not, I can always look it up when I'm ready to grab it and get wrenchin'.

icaddy
03-14-13, 01:59 PM
icaddy, how long did it take you from start to finish?

That's my first timing chain job... I think it took me over one month, mostly during weekend and after work. I am not as handy as you ;)

Gale Hawkins
03-25-13, 10:10 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoCQEdXYTGQ

Found this oil pump change video but got our 2003 5.3L engine sticking relief valve to clear up after running Sea Foam for 160 miles so oil pump change is on hold for nnow.

wake
03-26-13, 12:26 AM
I am however very pleasantly suprised the internals of the engine and oil pan where clean, clean, clean no signs, -zero-of sludge or anyother build up. For the past 160,000 miles the vehicles oil has been 5W30 Full Synthetic. The engine internals have an orangish tint though, kinda weird.

That's why I use synthetic on everything, right down to my $3000 winter beater.

About 15 years ago I took the intake off of my 120K mile IROC to replace it, I ran that car from 62K miles when I bought it through 130K miles when I got rid of it. At 120K miles the car had zero sludge, even after a few pretty bad overheat conditions (reason I was repalcing the intake manifold).

Like you, I found a slight golden/orange tint on the aluminum internals but zero sludge in the heads or intake valley. That sold me on the synthetics and I've used nothing else since.

One question though, why did you replace the timing set? Was it because you were in there already? I didn't think you could wear out a timing chain set on a normal passenger vehicle.

the cadillac man
03-26-13, 01:12 AM
That's why I use synthetic on everything, right down to my $3000 winter beater.

About 15 years ago I took the intake off of my 120K mile IROC to replace it, I ran that car from 62K miles when I bought it through 130K miles when I got rid of it. At 120K miles the car had zero sludge, even after a few pretty bad overheat conditions (reason I was repalcing the intake manifold).

Like you, I found a slight golden/orange tint on the aluminum internals but zero sludge in the heads or intake valley. That sold me on the synthetics and I've used nothing else since.

One question though, why did you replace the timing set? Was it because you were in there already? I didn't think you could wear out a timing chain set on a normal passenger vehicle.

I don't think it can be done my 79 chrysler cordoba is chain and I haven't had a problem with it

wesyder
03-26-13, 01:42 AM
That's why I use synthetic on everything, right down to my $3000 winter beater.

About 15 years ago I took the intake off of my 120K mile IROC to replace it, I ran that car from 62K miles when I bought it through 130K miles when I got rid of it. At 120K miles the car had zero sludge, even after a few pretty bad overheat conditions (reason I was repalcing the intake manifold).

Like you, I found a slight golden/orange tint on the aluminum internals but zero sludge in the heads or intake valley. That sold me on the synthetics and I've used nothing else since.

One question though, why did you replace the timing set? Was it because you were in there already? I didn't think you could wear out a timing chain set on a normal passenger vehicle.

In some instances the chain can stretch or the gears can wear, i have over 200k and i compared the new with the old and saw no difference but jus my luck it would failed for some reason after and id be kicking myself for not changing it while i was right there with the lower gear off anyway, for me it was a $100 worth of peace of mind

the cadillac man
03-26-13, 02:59 AM
In some instances the chain can stretch or the gears can wear, i have over 200k and i compared the new with the old and saw no difference but jus my luck it would failed for some reason after and id be kicking myself for not changing it while i was right there with the lower gear off anyway, for me it was a $100 worth of peace of mind

I don't blame you for doing it though considering the cost was cheap

jnrsesv
03-26-13, 06:23 AM
One question though, why did you replace the timing set? Was it because you were in there already? I didn't think you could wear out a timing chain set on a normal passenger vehicle.


In some instances the chain can stretch or the gears can wear, i have over 200k and i compared the new with the old and saw no difference but jus my luck it would failed for some reason after and id be kicking myself for not changing it while i was right there with the lower gear off anyway, for me it was a $100 worth of peace of mind

I am with wesyder on this, I was already in there and with the vehicle having 168,000 miles on it, it was just low cost insurance. We plan on putting another 200,000 k on this vehicle!

When I compared the old timing set with new, there was no stretching of the chain or worn gears. I in reality did not have to replace the timing gear set.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoCQEdXYTGQ

Found this oil pump change video but got our 2003 5.3L engine sticking relief valve to clear up after running Sea Foam for 160 miles so oil pump change is on hold for nnow.

Gale I watched this video a couple times myself before replacing the pump. There are also youtube vids of guys just replacing the O-ring as well, no oil pump or timing gear set replacement and it worked for them.


In the OP I did mention that the red O-ring (pick up tube to oil pump) in our truck was very, very brittle and needed replacing, so the sea foam in our case would not have worked or would have been a Band-Aid fix.

We do alot of traveling in our vehicle and I would hate to be stranded far away from home with no oil pressure. Worse yet is that I would have to rely on a so called professional to fix my vehicle.