: coolant issue and drifting



wifesv
03-09-13, 10:11 AM
Ok so I drifted around a corner last night and came out of it hard. Nice whip of the rear end...it was fun. However half mile down the road I see smoke coming from the hood and smell burning/overheating antifreez. 20 seconds later the check coolant signal dispalays. I quickly checked my temps(they were good) and pulled into a gas station. under the hood was a huge mess of coolant below both fans but mostly on the right side. The colant was a little low but still in the overflow. I added a little and started car up. there was no visible huge leak...I saw drips coming from under the car and two puddles 10 or so inches around and thats it. drove car home with no colant lights and all temps good. at home I looked under the car but still could not find a leak. After two hrs I only had a puddle 5 inches around and could not see anyting driping under the car. So did something just leak out from the car whiping around or did somthing break/blow. Just unsure why i cant find a leak. Also not sure if this matters but when i squezzed the radiator hose i heard a wheezing sound from behind the water pump area, this was after the two hr cool down in the garage. sounded like air escaping and i thought it was a closed system.

HAMSTAR
03-09-13, 10:39 AM
If you have the OEM radiator and it's not been changed lately, then likely the plastic fittings are disintegrating and coming loose. When you pulled those Gs, they separated temporarily and gushed coolant. The OEM rads are disposable unite, for all intents and purposes.

wifesv
03-09-13, 10:49 AM
well that seems like good news for the short term. Can you tell me where the fittings are? and what can i look for on them to see if they are disintegrating? also can i replace them or is it cheaper in the long run to replace the whole radiator? basically what do you think the best fix would be long term and short term.

darkman
03-09-13, 11:03 AM
The best long term solution is to replace the radiator with an Alradco. The OEM radiators leak along seams and are not repairable. Several forum members here have replaced the OEM unit with OEM units multiple times.



Alradco Aluminum Radiator for the 04-07 CTS-V
CLICK HERE TO ORDER ONLINE (http://alradco.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=33&category_id=14&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1l)
Or call us at 408-320-6842
Made in the USA , Direct OEM style & fit
peter@alradco.com (peter@alradco.com)

rand49er
03-09-13, 11:06 AM
Follow that "wheezing sound," and I'd bet that's where your problem is. Could well be the radiator because I can't imagine off hand how the water pump would become loose though when the water pump bearing goes out, it does leak there.

HAMSTAR
03-09-13, 11:17 AM
If your motor mounts are bad, excess motion of the engine in the bay, against the fixed radiator, could be contributing. That's what happened with my OEM rad. The pipe fittings started to rot and break up, and eventually one of the top hose fittings just snapped off.

wifesv
03-09-13, 12:38 PM
Thanks everyone this is all good info. I would have to rule out the mounts I looked at them and they look good, i did replace them 15K ago with the yellow ones from Lindsey or maybe it was UUC I cant remember. All the housed I can get to from the top dont have any fluid around them, But I cant get to the bottom ones at all. I am gonna clean everything up real good and start it and let it get hot, then just watch it for awhile. I will keep you updated.

----------

ok so it is leaking behind the water pump pully onto the crank pully. So were do i get started. pump part # and I have seen better thermostats on here before what one should i get. since i am not sure if its a pump or just the seal either way taking the pump off i am going to replace it. If anyone has dont this please let me know what issue you had and if anyone has the maual for pump replacement can you uplaod it for my viewing pleasure. Also I have change a water pump on a 5.3 LS truck motor so i kind of know what iam doing. car seems like it has less room but no fan attached seem easyier. do i need to drain the radiator first of just pull houses and clean up the mess? and what about getting under the car? do i need to? or can it all be done from the top? i have access to a good shop with tools and a lift but dont want to go if i can do it in my garage with limited tools and no lift. thanks again everyone

darkman
03-09-13, 12:55 PM
Water Pump GM Part Number is 89017592. Based the number alternatives carried by Rock Auto local parts stores may have rebuilt units.

See attached.

wifesv
03-09-13, 01:16 PM
Thanks Darkman. the only one i can find and get today is from NAPA. what do you think about using one from them.

darkman
03-09-13, 01:43 PM
Thanks Darkman. the only one i can find and get today is from NAPA. what do you think about using one from them.

NAPA's reputation is good. I have never had any problems with new or rebuilt parts from them.

wifesv
03-10-13, 11:29 AM
ok so update is due. pulled the radiator and fans as assembly, not to bad. looks like it was a seal on the pump but i am still replacing it. couple of questions. i had to remove a pully (not sure what it called another thread says hormonic balancer maybe) to get to the bottom bolt on the pump. however it didnt say that in the directions. what is the torque value of this pully cause i know it has to still rotate but it did have a torque stripe. second, there is fluid every where, how can i clean it or should i not worry just let it smoke off. its all over the AC belts and pullys crank pully. can i use car wash soap and some water then blast with air to dry? third three of the bolts are rusty/pitting really bad on the shank can i reuse them i am in a time crunch but if i shoulnd reuse i guess i can overnight some from ARP. third what is the proper way to refill the collant once its all back together. Thanks again! you guys rock

rand49er
03-10-13, 11:50 AM
I believe that bolt for the harmonic balancer is a torque-to-yield bolt and requires an angle gauge to install properly.

You really should get all that fluid off the pulleys and belts the best you can to prevent slippage. Paper towels or clean rags?

Those rusted bolts probably shouldn't be reinstalled. Take the old ones and go to the local hardware, and one of the old timers there will match them up with some new ones.

Fill the radiator up using the overflow tank. Once it's full, start the motor and replenish as necessary to the appropriate line.


With no other input, this is what I'd do. Good luck with your time crunch.

darkman
03-10-13, 11:53 AM
ok so update is due. pulled the radiator and fans as assembly, not to bad. looks like it was a seal on the pump but i am still replacing it. couple of questions. i had to remove a pully (not sure what it called another thread says hormonic balancer maybe) to get to the bottom bolt on the pump. however it didnt say that in the directions. what is the torque value of this pully cause i know it has to still rotate but it did have a torque stripe. second, there is fluid every where, how can i clean it or should i not worry just let it smoke off. its all over the AC belts and pullys crank pully. can i use car wash soap and some water then blast with air to dry? third three of the bolts are rusty/pitting really bad on the shank can i reuse them i am in a time crunch but if i shoulnd reuse i guess i can overnight some from ARP. third what is the proper way to refill the collant once its all back together. Thanks again! you guys rock

I doubt that you removed the harmonic balancer because it is a torque-to-yield bolt that requires a couple hundred foot pounds to remove. If you did remove it you really need a new one from the dealer (or auto parts store?) or an ARP replacement. The OEM bolt can only be tightened once.

You could try to match the rusting/pitted bolts with quality bolts from a hardware store. The Sears in my area carries a lot of metric. Some auto parts stores may also have them.

I would replace the AC belt while you are there because it is hard to get to.

I would not worry about the coolant other than perhaps to rinse off the area with plain water just before you start the car. Avoid, of course, getting water in the area of the alternator or major harness connections. If you can't avoid those areas leave it alone.

On refilling the radiator, I usually just refill the radiator through the upper hose opening before installing the upper hose. It can develope an air bubble in the system which can be addressed in one of two ways (there may be others). One is to simply drive the car for short periods refilling the overflow tank after each drive. The quicker way is to disconnect the steam tube running to the tubing on top of the radiator and run the engine unitl you get steam - then reinstall the tube.

wifesv
03-10-13, 01:59 PM
Thanks. anyone see a problem with mounting the water pump with old bolts ordering new ones then pulling the bad ones ( one at a time) and replacing with new ones? do you think it would mess up the seal?

darkman
03-10-13, 02:01 PM
Thanks. anyone see a problem with mounting the water pump with old bolts ordering new ones then pulling the bad ones ( one at a time) and replacing with new ones? do you think it would mess up the seal?

That will work.

wifesv
03-10-13, 02:11 PM
Thanks. I am doing it

wifesv
03-10-13, 04:50 PM
does the thermostat get a paper gasket? new pump came with one and GM parts direct shows one. however the old one did not have one and my new chilton manual does not show one.

darkman
03-10-13, 05:51 PM
does the thermostat get a paper gasket? new pump came with one and GM parts direct shows one. however the old one did not have one and my new chilton manual does not show one.

See the attached - indicates an O-ring.

If yours has no O-ring and is otherwise flat metal to flat metai I would use the gasket.