: Cruise control and other problems (also serves as an "I'm new" post)



Destram
03-08-13, 10:54 PM
I just picked up a 2004 CTS-V last weekend, and I'm already having to go to the dealership. The cruise control turns on, but will not set the speed. I took it to the dealership, and a code came back for a bad clutch position sensor. So I had them replace it today, and before I got it back they said they want me to bring it back in Monday for them to run more tests on it because they think the ECM may be bad (I have no clue how they came to that conclusion or how I would be able to verify that either).

After I got the car back, I had expected the sensor being fixed would fix my cruise control problem (after reading threads saying that could cause cruise control to not work), but it still isn't working. Anyone have any other ideas for what would cause it to turn on but not set?

Also, when I bought the car, there was no DVD for the navigation, so I bought one on eBay that was supposed to be genuine. I got it in the mail today and put it in. When the map finally comes up, it shows the arrow for my location, but the map is completely glitched. I'm sending the DVD back for a refund, but do you think it was a disc error or the navigation in the car is bad? I didn't have a chance to try it when I bought it since there was no DVD.

Any input would be appreciated. I'm in college living in an apartment with no tools or space to work on my car myself, so I'm kind of at the mercy of the dealership, and I'd prefer to not be completely ripped off (though at $94/hour for labor, that's gonna happen anyway).

Here are some pictures if you're interested:

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/733886_4560078722104_1037651432_n.jpg

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/62465_4554944913762_996416928_n.jpg

darkman
03-08-13, 11:50 PM
:welcome:

See attached.

Naf
03-09-13, 07:10 AM
was the car tuned before you bought it? will cruise control work in 1-4 gear but not in 5-6 gear?

Or does the cruise control not work at all in any gear

Destram
03-09-13, 10:53 AM
I don't know if it was tuned or not. The cruise control won't set in any gear.

Naf
03-10-13, 03:05 AM
You have a sensor issue, it could be that your tail lights consuming too much power, a bad clutch sensor, or even a bad brake sensor...

Tackle one problem at a time and keep at it till its solved

Cadillac Cust Svc
03-11-13, 01:15 PM
Welcome, Destram! I'm sorry to hear about your frustrations, especially so shortly after purchase. If you ever need assistance working with your dealer, please don't hesitate to contact Customer Service! I'm reachable via email at Katie_Lucille@gmexpert.com.

Best,

Katie
Cadillac Customer Service

Destram
03-11-13, 05:51 PM
Update: The day after I got my car back, the CEL came back on, and the same code was coming up saying the clutch position switch was bad. I took it back to the dealership today, and now they're telling me the PCM is not grounding the clutch position switch, and that I need a new PCM. They're saying it's $975.55 for parts and labor. That's ridiculous. I'm a college kid with limited income, so there's no way I can do that.

Edit: And since the same code is coming back, I have no way of verifying whether or not the switch was bad in the first place and if I wasted $250 to get it replaced.

darkman
03-11-13, 06:00 PM
Update: The day after I got my car back, the CEL came back on, and the same code was coming up saying the clutch position switch was bad. I took it back to the dealership today, and now they're telling me the PCM is not grounding the clutch position switch, and that I need a new PCM. They're saying it's $975.55 for parts and labor. That's ridiculous. I'm a college kid with limited income, so there's no way I can do that.

Edit: And since the same code is coming back, I have no way of verifying whether or not the switch was bad in the first place and if I wasted $250 to get it replaced.

What code number are you getting?

Destram
03-11-13, 06:06 PM
PO833 before and after getting the clutch position switch replaced

darkman
03-11-13, 06:40 PM
PO833 before and after getting the clutch position switch replaced

Attached the troubelshooting information for DTC P0833.

Based on that troubleshooting sequence as well as the one for the cruise control system it seems very likely that the clutch position switch did not need replacing. For one thing, a defective clutch position switch typically causes occasional failures to start which you do not report having.

Secondly, although ECMs do fail, it is relatively rare. It is far more likely that the connections to the ECM are oxidized and not making good connection. Oxidation, as opposed to rust/corrosion, consists of a thin coating of oxidized metal sufficient to block the low voltage on which computer controlled cars depend. It is easily removed.

Finally, if it is the ECM you can get used ones in the aftermarket for far less money. You would however, have to have it flashed by a dealer.

WesH8398
03-11-13, 07:17 PM
Unless its under warranty, save yourself some major money and either go to a reputable shop that's NOT the stealership, or just search and ask around the forums and learn to troubleshoot and fix the problems yourself. These forums have saved me thousands of dollars over the years. For example, I replaced my clutch position sensor last year for about $40 and 45 minutes of my time, thanks to info from here and ls1 forums. Compare that to the $250 you just unloaded on the same "repair"...

Destram
03-11-13, 07:56 PM
I'm trying to do that now. The PCM was nearly $700 at the dealership, and I can get it for $413 from O'Reilly including the flash.

I'm not that handy with cars, but I definitely want to become that way to save some money.

izcain
03-11-13, 08:01 PM
I would try disconnecting the battery and removing the pcm connectors first and cleaning them with some good electrical cleaner and make sure they have a good connection and all the pins look good and nothing is out of place. You can get the cleaner for cheap and it's worth a shot.

Worst case scenario you could get hooked up from someone over on LS1tech for cheap probably but I would only do that after you ran thru the diag portion like darkman posted and was absolutely sure you know where the problem is.

This is where there is a big difference between being a parts changer and being a Technician. Most dealerships are becoming more and more of a parts changer type. It is sad but I see it all the time here at the shop.

Destram
03-11-13, 08:08 PM
Thanks for the advice. I'll pick up some of the cleaner and give that a shot. If that's all it ends up being, then it's sad that the dealership would try to pull that crap on me.

izcain
03-11-13, 08:17 PM
Some more information.

This was what I was talking about in another thread on here about the wonderful micro relays that GM uses in their stuff! Also I would pull the pcm connector and ohm out the harness! Connector C1 Pin 35

Destram
03-14-13, 06:36 PM
Well I cleaned the PCM connectors and had the CEL cleared to see if it'll come back on. In the trip back from the shop, the light didn't come back on, but the cruise control still doesn't work, which leads me to believe the light will come back on. If that's the case, the cleaning didn't help it, so am I to assume the dealership is right and I do need a new PCM?

darkman
03-14-13, 06:48 PM
As discussed in the DTC0833 pdf, the CEL does not set until 7 trips above 24 mph and back to zero mph without a report of clutch transition (from the clutch position switch). So you could see if it is going to set again with some driving.

izcain
03-14-13, 07:29 PM
Did you perform the pin out on the ecm pin to the clutch switch to make sure there is continuity?

Destram
03-14-13, 07:35 PM
No, I didn't do that. I have limited tools (just a set of sockets, screwdrivers, and wrenches). I've never worked on my own cars. I figure I'm in college, so it's time to learn, but being in college, money is limited to run out and buy tools to do everything.

izcain
03-14-13, 08:33 PM
You need an ohm meter and some wire. You can get a cheap meter from wal mart even to get you by

Destram
03-15-13, 12:12 AM
The check engine light came back on tonight.

It looks like I should pick up a scan tool and a DMM. I know I can get the DMM pretty cheap, but I'm not sure which scan tool to get. Do you have any suggestions for which scan tool I should get that will let me run the tests in the pdf (such as "use the scan tool to monitor the clutch pedal position switch parameter" and so forth)?

I'm going to go pick up the DMM tomorrow, but I'll probably have to come back to this thread asking for help. I have the DTC PO833 pdf, but some of the things it wants me to do are a in a foreign language for me since I'm not the most car savvy person yet.

izcain
03-15-13, 07:48 PM
In order to look at live data you are going to need more then a code reader. Hence it will cost a bit of money to have. Big difference between a scan tool and a code reader.

Destram
03-15-13, 08:36 PM
I picked up a DMM today. I'm looking at this scan tool: http://www.ebay.com/itm/230946308690?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

That will do what I need, right? If so, I'm going to order it, and when it comes in, I'll go through the tests in the pdf and report back here. If it ends up saying I need to replace the PCM anyway like the dealership said, at least I'll have some new tools I'll get to use from now on.

Oh, off topic, but I picked up a better jack today, too. The one that comes with the car sucks haha.

darkman
03-15-13, 10:05 PM
Jacks are for raising and lowering the car, but don't ever crawl under a car held only by a jack or even jacks. Jacks can and will fail, even if relatively new. For working under the car get either jack stands (not expensive and easy to store) or Rhino ramps (still cheap but require more storage room).

The scanner you need to perform the tests in the PDFs is a GM Tech II Scanner and will cost several hundred dollars. If you look for these, be cautious - there are knock-offs in the market place (have "TechII in their name") that are not the same thing.

Destram
03-15-13, 10:28 PM
Oh yeah, I have jack stands. I was just saying the jack that came with the car is a pain to use, so I bought a better one so I can jack it up faster.

As for the scanner, I don't have several hundred dollars to spend on one (a quick search on eBay showed one up to nearly $700). So while it may not be as good as the one you mentioned, are you saying the one I linked to in my previous post will not perform the tests I need to do? If so, then I won't be able to perform the tests, and that leaves me back at the beginning where all I have to go off of is what the dealership said (PCM needs replacing).

izcain
03-15-13, 10:36 PM
You just need a scan tool that will show the right information which most any scan tool that will show live data should show the clutch switch. I am unfamiliar with that one you are looking at but if it does as the description advertises it should show you.

Destram
03-15-13, 10:42 PM
The one I linked to is one of the brands Auto Zone sells. I saw it when I was in the store the other day, which is the only reason I searched for it on eBay because I'm not familiar with any brands.

Thanks for the comments.

darkman
03-15-13, 10:44 PM
Oh yeah, I have jack stands. I was just saying the jack that came with the car is a pain to use, so I bought a better one so I can jack it up faster.

As for the scanner, I don't have several hundred dollars to spend on one (a quick search on eBay showed one up to nearly $700). So while it may not be as good as the one you mentioned, are you saying the one I linked to in my previous post will not perform the tests I need to do? If so, then I won't be able to perform the tests, and that leaves me back at the beginning where all I have to go off of is what the dealership said (PCM needs replacing).

Most of us here are in the same boat as you are in that very few of us own a GM TechII scanner. Many of us own the type of scanner at which you were looking, which is good for finding out what specific code is causing a CEL and for clearing those same codes to see if they reset. However, GM dealers are not the only shops that have GM TechII scanners and the same troubleshooting charts. So you could look elsewhere in terms of a shop. I generally rely on my dealer for the kind of probem you are having, but I trust my dealer not to "throw parts" at a problem and actually run all the test.

In your case, based on my reading of the troubleshooting procedure, it is clear that the two possible defective components were the clutch position switch and the PCM. However, it also appears likely that the dealer should have found the clutch position switch to be "good" if the real issue is the PCM. The fact that the dealer replaced the clutch position switch makes me suspect that thery are not going through the trouble shooting chart eliminating the other possible causes (bad wiring, shorts, etc.) that would remain after the clutch position switch was changed. I would at least get another opinion before paying big bucks for a PCM, especially since the car is still running.

Destram
03-15-13, 10:57 PM
I just ordered the scan tool, and it should be here by next Tuesday. When it gets here, I'll go through the the tests. If I get to a part I don't understand, I'll come back here. You guys are more than helpful, and I appreciate it. It's good to be able to ask for help from people who have no reason to lie to me like the dealership does.

Destram
03-18-13, 08:30 PM
Ok, my scan tool came in today, and I went outside to try and do some of these tests, and I was reminded how little I know. Any help would be appreciated.

Step 4 in the PDF says "Is the engine ignition 1 fuse open?" Under the hood, there is only one fuse that says anything about ign. I believe it says ign mod maf or something like that. By open, what does it mean? I pulled the fuse, and it wasn't blown. There is a relay that says ign 1 micro relay, I think.

I moved to step 5 where it says, "Using a DMM, measure voltage at the engine ignition 1 fuse in the underhood fuse block" and then it asks if the DMM indicates the specified value, which is listed as B+. I don't know what to do here. I pulled the fuse and put my DMM leads where the fuse goes and my DMM read 1. This is my first time using a DMM like this; I got that reading with the DMM set to 200m, 2, and 20, I believe. I don't know what setting I was supposed to have it on.

I didn't go past this step because I wasn't sure if I even did it right, and, if I did do it right, if I should move on to step 6 or step 12. I don't know what it means when it says the value should be B+.

Sorry for the questions, but I'm trying to make sure I know what the problem is before I spend $400+ on a PCM.

AngryHog
03-19-13, 09:41 PM
B+ is "battery positive" or 12-14volts. Basically, it's saying "are you getting the same voltage at the fuse as you do on the battery's positive terminal". Generally, a reading of 1 means you're reading above the range of your current setting. Like set for a 2 volt range and trying to display 12 volts...it will just show a 1. Make sure you're on the 20 volt range, DC.

-AngryHog

Destram
03-19-13, 11:31 PM
Ok, that makes sense. I appreciate the help. I'll go outside tomorrow and redo that test. Before I do, though, I need to know what to do for the next step. It says to measure the voltage at the ignition 1 voltage circuit. That's obviously different than the previous step where it says to measure the fuse. Where do I measure to get the ignition 1 voltage circuit voltage?

CTSV_Rob
03-20-13, 12:03 AM
Just an FYI,
I had a bad switch, Threw the same code, and the cruise control did not work.

In my case the switch was bad. When I replaced it I looked at the old one and the return springs were mangled and broken. Interesting that the new one did not fix it but it is possible the new switch went bad. When I had it out of the car and looked at it, all I could think of was what a total piece of crap. Don't take this the wrong way, it is only ~25 bucks from Rock Auto (Yes, it was AC Delco) so that probably explains why the quality is not very good.

I am thinking about replacing it every couple of years anyway.

Okay, back to the OP's problem. Since this switch just makes contact when fully in or fully out I would recommend checking the switch even though it has been replaced. It could be a problem with the ECU but I would think the GM Techs would have caught that when the switch didn't fix it. Either the switch went bad again or you may have a wiring issue (My guess).

BTW, that switch is a pain in the butt to change.

----------

Good Luck and Happy hunting.

darkman
03-20-13, 10:33 AM
See attached.

CTSV_Rob
03-20-13, 12:58 PM
Ok, that makes sense. I appreciate the help. I'll go outside tomorrow and redo that test. Before I do, though, I need to know what to do for the next step. It says to measure the voltage at the ignition 1 voltage circuit. That's obviously different than the previous step where it says to measure the fuse. Where do I measure to get the ignition 1 voltage circuit voltage?
The PDF Darkman provided is perfect.

If I understand the circuit correctly, you should see ~12 Volts on Ignition 1 voltage (Pins A and D of the Connector on the Clutch Switch). So what you will want to do is to take the black probe (From your meter) and find a good bare piece of metal under the dash and attach it. Next insert the red probe into Pins A and D and see if they have 12 volts.

If that is okay then I would check Pin B, it should have 12 volts on it with the clutch all the way out.

It seems the car starts okay so if this is the case then you must have the 12 volts going to either A or D or the car would not start.

I'm curious to see what the failure is.

Destram
04-24-13, 06:24 PM
Been awhile, but here's the update: I went ahead and took it to the dealership and had them replace the PCM like they said the problem was. The CEL code is now gone and my cruise control finally works.

The PCM they first ordered and I paid for was $686. Apparently it was the wrong one, though, and the next one they ordered was much cheaper. I ended up getting a $118 reimbursement today when I picked up my car. So $568 for the part, labor, and getting it flashed. That's not as bad as the almost $900 I think they originally told me.

Unfortunately, my CEL is still on because of a bad cat (PO 420 code). Is this something I should look into getting fixed? The dealership, as you can imagine, is trying to rip me off by saying it's like $700 or something to fix, but that's because, rather than just replace the bad cat, they say they would also have to replace the headers.

darkman
04-24-13, 10:36 PM
Did the dealer say why the header - (I am assuming the exhaust manifold) - needed replacement? The catalytic converter is a separate part altogether and exhaust manifolds are cast iron and rarely break. With all the CTS-Vs running aftermarket headers/high flow cats there must be used cats and exhaust manifolds available.

Destram
04-24-13, 11:09 PM
As far as I know, the header is fine. He said they would replace the header because "issues may come up if you just cut off the cat and weld a new one on." Seriously.

Edit: And if I remember right, he claimed they can't order just a new cat.

darkman
04-24-13, 11:34 PM
As far as I know, the header is fine. He said they would replace the header because "issues may come up if you just cut off the cat and weld a new one on." Seriously.

Edit: And if I remember right, he claimed they can't order just a new cat.

I suspect the dealer is talking about the pieces of pipe to which the cat body is welded. Altogether, it is a single part that bolts to the exhaust manifolds on one side and to the cat-back system on the other. See attached. The cat part numbers are 10358089 (left) and 10358090 (right).

D3l7a3ch0
04-25-13, 10:33 AM
love the colors! right down to the grille and wheels!

http://i.imgur.com/NT8hsrb.jpg

Destram
04-25-13, 12:27 PM
I suspect the dealer is talking about the pieces of pipe to which the cat body is welded. Altogether, it is a single part that bolts to the exhaust manifolds on one side and to the cat-back system on the other. See attached. The cat part numbers are 10358089 (left) and 10358090 (right).

Thanks for the info.

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?addtocart=1&addpartnumber=10358089&singlepart=1&partnumber=10358089

This is the cheapest I've found that part you listed. For some reason I was thinking the catalytic converter was like $80. Is $332 a realistic price? That's cheaper than what the dealership told me, but I thought the dealership was outrageous too.

darkman
04-25-13, 04:01 PM
Check with Luke at Lindsay Cadillac for a price - GM Direct often stings you on shipping and handling. OEM cats are not cheap. There are some aftermarket alternatives, but most will not consistently pass the cat efficiency test run by the rear O2 sensors, which forces you to get a tuner to tune out the rear O2 sensors.

Destram
04-26-13, 11:46 AM
If I'm going to spend that much money on this, I might as well put some more with it and get some more performance out of this car. What are my options to replace the cats and get more performance? I've read about long tube headers, but I'm not sure what all is involved with that and not having my CEL come on.

darkman
04-26-13, 12:38 PM
With the rear O2 sensors off, the performance options include: Bolt on high-flow cats with existing manifolds, which does give some gain in horsepower (perhaps 15) with a little more noise - these cats are not compatible with long-tube headers; Long-tube headers with high-flow cats, which gives a little more horsepower when tuned (about 25) with somewhat more noise than the first option; and long-tube headers with no cats, which provides about the same horsepower as with cats (about 25), but will not pass a visible check for cats (not every inspector bothers to look under the car) and will exhibit the odor associated with non-catted engines.

Destram
04-26-13, 06:07 PM
What do you mean when you say there is more noise? Will it be unbearable while driving?

What long-tube headers/high-flow cats combo do you recommend? And you say with the rear O2 sensors off..do you mean completely removed or tuned to make them not work/not throw any kind of CEL?

darkman
04-26-13, 06:23 PM
With respect to the O2 sensors, I mean turner off in the PCM program. The sensor remains in place for appearances.

Any of the combinations I described will not be all that loud because the stock cat back remains in place. (The stock cat-back is actually hard to be performance-wise, as it is a full 2.5 inch stainless steel system that flows quite well). At idle, if you are outside the car, the sound will have a deeper tone - almost like you've added a subwoofer but decibel level is not much higher. It will be a little louder in the cabin at full throttle but not anywhere near the sound level that aftermarket cat-back systems introduce.

Destram
05-11-13, 07:27 PM
Update: After a couple weeks or so of the problem being fixed and my cruise control working, the PO833 code came back on today, and my cruise control, as a result, stopped working again.

Looks like it's back to the dealership Monday for them to tell me, "Oh, well now this is the problem."

Destram
05-12-13, 02:45 PM
Update 2:

Hooked up the scan tool today and these are all the codes I have now:

PO171
PO174
PO420 (cat code I already had)
PO833 (clutch position switch code the dealership was supposed to fix twice now)

darkman
05-12-13, 02:55 PM
The P0171 and P0174 indicate a lean condition on both cylinder banks, which points to the fuel system including fuel pressure from pump or through the replaceable fuel filter. See attached.

Cadillac Cust Svc
05-12-13, 03:44 PM
Update: After a couple weeks or so of the problem being fixed and my cruise control working, the PO833 code came back on today, and my cruise control, as a result, stopped working again.

Looks like it's back to the dealership Monday for them to tell me, "Oh, well now this is the problem."

Hello Destram,

I am sorry you have to take your vehicle back to the dealership. I understand how having the same issue occur again can be frustrating. I hope everything goes well with your dealership visit!

Regards,

Laura M.
Cadillac Customer Service

Destram
05-12-13, 04:01 PM
The P0171 and P0174 indicate a lean condition on both cylinder banks, which points to the fuel system including fuel pressure from pump or through the replaceable fuel filter. See attached.

I went outside just now and checked under the hood. Where the intake connects to the throttle body was loose, so I slid it all the way back on and tightened it. I cleared the codes and rode around awhile. The PO833 code came back on, but the lean codes didn't come back on. I'm hoping that's all it was and they don't come back on. I'm sure the cat code will come back on too.


Hello Destram,

I am sorry you have to take your vehicle back to the dealership. I understand how having the same issue occur again can be frustrating. I hope everything goes well with your dealership visit!

Regards,

Laura M.
Cadillac Customer Service

Things will be great if they honor what they told me last time I went to get this problem fixed. They said if it wasn't fixed after that time, they'd see about crediting what I paid the second time towards what it costs to fix it the third time. If they try to tell me I'm going to have to pay a third time to fix one problem, then I'm going to have a fit right there at the dealership. They should have found the problem and fixed it the first time.

It's Bentley Cadillac in Florence, AL if you want to give them a call and explain how frustrated I am with them. I'll be there tomorrow, but I'd appreciate all the help I can get.

Cadillac Cust Svc
05-12-13, 04:36 PM
I went outside just now and checked under the hood. Where the intake connects to the throttle body was loose, so I slid it all the way back on and tightened it. I cleared the codes and rode around awhile. The PO833 code came back on, but the lean codes didn't come back on. I'm hoping that's all it was and they don't come back on. I'm sure the cat code will come back on too.



Things will be great if they honor what they told me last time I went to get this problem fixed. They said if it wasn't fixed after that time, they'd see about crediting what I paid the second time towards what it costs to fix it the third time. If they try to tell me I'm going to have to pay a third time to fix one problem, then I'm going to have a fit right there at the dealership. They should have found the problem and fixed it the first time.

It's Bentley Cadillac in Florence, AL if you want to give them a call and explain how frustrated I am with them. I'll be there tomorrow, but I'd appreciate all the help I can get.

Hi Destram,

I hope the dealership honors what they told as well! Please private message me so we can continue to interact that way. How about you private message me after your dealership visit and we can discuss any concerns after that.

Sincerely,

Laura M.
Cadillac Customer Service

Destram
05-14-13, 02:59 PM
I took it back to the dealership today, and they said there was a connector loose that wouldn't stay connected. They replaced it real quick for free, and now it all works again. Finally left the dealership with my problem fixed and it didn't cost me anything!

So now I'm back to just needing that bad cat replaced.

darkman
05-14-13, 03:29 PM
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-general/289684-anyone-have-driver-side-cat-sell.html

Destram
05-15-13, 08:54 PM
Well, PO171 and PO174 came back on today. I had hoped getting the intake back on right would fix it, but obviously not. Any other ideas of what would be causing this?

PS: This mobile app is nice. Makes posting on the go much easier.

darkman
05-15-13, 09:33 PM
Well, PO171 and PO174 came back on today. I had hoped getting the intake back on right would fix it, but obviously not. Any other ideas of what would be causing this?

PS: This mobile app is nice. Makes posting on the go much easier.

Although it could be something else, I would assume for the moment that you have a dealer-installed vacuum leak. I also think the only thing they would have removed would have been the intake plumbing as opposed to the intake manifold itself. To completely eliminate the intake plumbing I would remove it from the throttle body to the air cleaner and install it carefully check every joint such as those at the Mass Airflow sensor all the connection to throttle body. I would check the throttle body itself and any hoses in the area (PCV-related).

Destram
05-16-13, 02:14 AM
I'll go back outside again tomorrow and see if anything else looks loose or messed up. I'll disconnect it at the throttle body again and everywhere and see if that fixes it this time.

Destram
05-17-13, 11:54 PM
I haven't had a chance to check under the hood for anything loose because it's been raining. I did order two cats today, though, so when those get in, I should be able to get the catalytic converter code fixed. It actually hasn't come back on from when the dealership cleared the codes, but I don't see why it wouldn't, so by the time the cats come in, it should be back on.

Eventually, I'll get all of the codes fixed and I'll be able to enjoy the car!

Destram
05-23-13, 08:51 PM
Got both of the cats replaced today. The bad cat code finally came back on before I replaced them, so I cleared the code today, and hopefully this fixed the problem. This should have fixed all of the check engine light problems I've had.

All that's left to fix is all of the passenger window switches are messed up. The front seat passenger window switch will roll the window up but not down. The back seat window switches will roll the windows down but not up. The driver switches will do all of the windows up and down. Luckily, this is covered by the service plan I got when I bought the car (minus the $100 deductible and it only covers $60/hour labor (which means if I get the dealership to fix it, I'm still coming out of pocket $30+/hr for labor)).

I'll probably let this thread die now. Thanks so much for all of the help, everyone, and thanks for the warm welcome here. This place has been more than helpful already.