: DIY - How to install Lowering Springs (Eibach Pro-kit)on your 2012 Cadillac CTS Coupe



btlfedcts
03-03-13, 09:37 PM
My installation of the Eibach Pro-kit (part# 38146.140 - 0.8"/0.9" drop)

BEFORE - STOCK with OE wheels/tires

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/73/2125137_600.jpg

AFTER - Eibach Pro-Kit with OE wheels/tires

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/38/2125183_600.jpg

AFTER - Eibach Pro-Kit with TSW 20" Interlagos / Toyo Proxes T1R

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/74/2125147_600.jpghttp://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/58/2125185_600.jpg


Eibach aftermarket spring to OEM spring comparison


http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/45/2125154_600.jpg

OEM spring
- Linear single rate spring

Eibach spring
- Progressive rate spring

The change to a progressive rate spring translates into a smooth comfortable ride while driving modestly and a stiffer rate will get engaged when driving more aggressively when body wants to roll, dive and squat more. This technology is actually derived from motorsports by stacking springs of different rates to provide the best balance of mechanical grip. The result is having the best of both worlds in one suspension kit.


http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/27/2125172_600.jpghttp://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/17/2125171_600.jpg

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/35/2125153_600.jpghttp://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/25/2125152_600.jpg

OEM spring
- 7.00 lbs (front)
- 7.40 lbs (rear)

Eibach spring
- 9.20 lbs (front)
- 10.05 lbs (rear)

The OEM springs have increased mass due to the additional coils and heavier coils. To reduce body roll, nose dive and squat a heavier spring rate is required. To lower the center of gravity with a heavier spring rate the working rate of the spring will need to be shorter, however additional coils are required to take up the travel to full droop (to prevent the spring from popping out of its spring perch) and add some progressivity.


(Information derived from an interview with Eibach Suspension)

btlfedcts
03-03-13, 09:50 PM
FRONT SUSPENSION REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION


FOLLOW OEM JACKING AND/OR LIFTING PROCEDURES *This can be done just as easily on jack stands however I am using a lift for convenience.


Step 1 - Front Suspension, Strut tower removal

Remove the side engine compartment plastics.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/28/2125182_600.jpg

Remove the strut tower brace by removing 1 bolt and 1 nut from each side and remove the brace.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/97/2125179_600.jpg

The strut tower should like this once removed.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/18/2125181_600.jpg


Step 2 - Front Suspension, Strut Assembly removal

Remove the wheels / tires.

Remove the lower strut to control arm bolts being mindful of the brake line location through the rest of the install.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/87/2125178_600.jpg

Remove the upper control arm upper ball joint nut.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/86/2125168_600.jpg

Remove the stud and remaining 3 bolts (including the one on the side of the strut tower)

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/66/2125166_600.jpg

Remove the the upper control arm, strut and coil assembly

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/96/2125169_600.jpg


Step 3 - Front Suspension, Strut Assembly teardown

Using a coil spring compressor, compress the spring as per instructions and remove the upper strut bolt.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/47/2125174_600.jpg

Note coil spring clocking and position of the coil and spring perch


Step 4 - Front Suspension, Strut Assembly reassembly

Using a coil spring compressor, compress the Eibach spring as per instructions and re-install over the strut making note again of the coil and perch positions.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/57/2125175_600.jpg

Reinstall the the upper strut bolt and tighten noting the control arm position.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/67/2125176_600.jpg


Step 5 - Front Suspension, Strut Assembly installation

Pull the spindle and brake assembly out of the way making note of the brake lines and ABS sensor harness

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/07/2125170_600.jpg

Reinstall the strut assembly and replace the ball joint nut.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/76/2125167_600.jpg

Besure to note the brake line retainer bracket upon installation of the lower control arm bolts.

and reinstall the stud and 3 bolts leaving out the bolt for the strut tower.

Be sure the two nylon pins are aligned correctly.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/56/2125165_600.jpg

Reinstall the stud and 3 bolts leaving out the bolt for the strut tower.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/46/2125164_600.jpg


Step 6 - Front Suspension, Strut tower installation

Reinstall the strut tower noting the position of the bolts in the strut tower slotted holes

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/26/2125162_600.jpg

Replace the side engine compartment plastics.


TORQUE ALL BOLTS TO OEM SPECIFICATIONS AND CHECK ALL HOSES AND HARNESSES.

btlfedcts
03-04-13, 02:23 AM
REAR SUSPENSION REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION


FOLLOW OEM JACKING AND/OR LIFTING PROCEDURES *This can be done just as easily on jack stands however I am using a lift for convenience.


Step 1 - Rear Suspension, sway bar / lower control arm disconnect

Remove the sway bar nuts on both side and disconnect the sway bar links from the lower control arm.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/94/2125149_600.jpg

With the lower control arm supported by a spin jack or floor jack remove the lower control arm to spindle bolt

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/15/2125151_600.jpg


Step 2 - Rear Suspension, Spring removal

Once the spring tension is relieved, carefully pry the lower control arm down and pull out the stock spring.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/55/2125155_600.jpg


Step 3 - Rear Suspension, Spring installation

Install the Eibach Spring noting the notches in the spring cup on the control arm and the locator in the upper pocket.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/75/2125157_600.jpg


Step 4 - Rear Suspension, Sway bar and lower control arm reassembly

Using the floor jack or spin jack, support the lower control arm and compress the spring aligning the lower control arm and spindle.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/85/2125158_600.jpg

Replace the lower control arm bolt and sway bar nut.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/15/95/2125159_600.jpg


TORQUE ALL BOLTS TO OEM SPECIFICATIONS AND CHECK ALL HOSES AND HARNESSES.[COLOR="Silver"][COLOR="Silver"]

tinman
03-05-13, 02:46 PM
Nicely done.

Did you consider coilovers? Why did you not get coilovers? Most probably price.

btlfedcts
03-05-13, 08:16 PM
I considered coilovers and had them on my last Gen 5 Camaro project car but it was a value issue. I don't track the CTS and the ride height I have now is about as low as I would like to go. I have no issues with driveways, speed bumps and the ride is still more luxury than the Vette even with the low profile Proxes T1Rs

I definitely see the value in performance of a coilover but in this case just doesn't make sense. I am however looking at the coilover conversion for my 2004 Z06 project as this car only sees roads on weekends to and from Buttonwillow and local autocross events ... here the adjustability in ride height and ease to change springs for big tracks vs autocross makes sense for the cost. In addition, I have not seen a wide selection of aftermarket coilover set-ups for the CTS and see few CTSs even at the track and none with coilovers set-ups. For the most part this is my commuter car.

tinman
03-07-13, 11:49 AM
I have been told KW makes a set for our cars.

TrimThis
03-07-13, 01:01 PM
Nice write up. I have the same set up. Just low enough to not wipe out the splitter on curbs/parking stops. Not much change in the ride, and improved looks.

Dano636
03-07-13, 06:31 PM
Awesome DIY thread good job

btlfedcts
03-10-13, 04:09 PM
The purpose of this vehicle is just that ... improved looks and near stock functionality.

The MagnaFlow exhaust is not invasive and satisfies my desire for a performance "experience" when i get into the throttle and nearly disappears when i'm just cruising around.
The Eibach springs compliment the looks and firm up the ride a little for some spirited driving on the road. This is not my drag car or my track car.
The TSWs and Toyos give me an aggressive look and add that performance "experience" when I find that corner or patch of twisties on the way home.

The CTS by no means a dominant "street machine" but it makes me smile when I see her, when I push the pedal and enter the corner a little hot and she gives me just enough exhilaration to keep the track toys where they belong and a in the end she's a Cadillac and ever bit of the interior is welcoming and comfortable for the long and short rides.

99flhr
03-27-13, 08:42 PM
and a in the end it`s a Cadillac.

I have to agree with btlfedcts. ( and applaud an excellent DIY)
And will offer this reverse analogy, back when the Earth was still cooling I had an MBG, was never tempted to add power windows..
I believe the contemporary phrase applies: "It is what it it is"

btlfedcts
04-05-13, 01:48 AM
2 months and loving every moment ... Getting a feel for the new stance and pushing it a little harder. First track day is 28 days away and counting.

shmiddy
04-05-13, 03:05 AM
Would the steps be nearly the same for a sedan?

Kenny9123
04-05-13, 09:47 PM
Alignment after?

btlfedcts
04-05-13, 11:13 PM
Would the steps be nearly the same for a sedan?

Yes! I also had the same kit on my 2010 3.0L sedan.

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The alignment was not optimal for tire wear after the drop however the additional negative camber felt good for hard cornering and spirited driving.

Thunder V
04-09-13, 09:31 PM
Is there a problem using the eibachs with the magnetic ride control?

jpsomnermd
04-12-13, 01:33 PM
Alignment after?

Did you have to have an alignment after the install?

btlfedcts
04-13-13, 12:48 PM
Is there a problem using the eibachs with the magnetic ride control?

Not so sure there is a "problem" but there are definitely some considerations to make. You will need to consider modifying the sensors for the new ride height and then look at how well the car preforms with less stroke. I would debate the effectiveness of ride height to achieve an increase in performance. If its for aesthetics primarily then you should be fine.

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Did you have to have an alignment after the install?

The alignment was not bad but definitely not best for tire wear. I would recommend an alignment.

RP37
05-02-13, 01:21 PM
Hi, I have a 2012 CTS sedan RWD performance w/FE-2 suspension. Disappointed with its ride, can onloy imagine what the FE-1 is like. Can I gather from your experience with the Eibach springs that I can expect to eliminate some of the roll when cornering. The lower look is great but I'm hopeful to flatten things out a bit upon turn in. Thanks,

RP

btlfedcts
05-03-13, 10:16 AM
Yes the roll is significantly changed. You will notice a much flatter feel to the car during cornering all the way up to the point where you cause the car to break and the transition to slide is very predictable. Even with the invasive traction control on its much more fun.

RP37
05-06-13, 11:36 AM
Thank you, now I just have to find the right mechanic to do the job. Can I assume the springs will eliminate some of the wallowy/ride softness experienced on some road surfaces? Any suggestions on swaybars. I saw some on D3 for $695. I was wondering if the bars from CTS V will fit.

jpsomnermd
06-11-13, 04:40 PM
Just installed the Pro-kit per this DIY write-up without a hitch. Thanks for posting! One minor snag, though, when trying to get the upper strut bolt off - a quick internet search showed that I had to use a spark plug socket and hex key to remove the bolt.

btlfedcts
06-17-13, 05:27 AM
I had an air impact gun which negated the necessity for the Strut nut removal kit or spark plug socket and hex key. Good note!

is250sp
07-04-13, 06:15 PM
I am thinking of going with coilovers and noticed the rear in our cars only have springs with no strut/shocks. How would coilovers work for the rears?

btlfedcts
07-06-13, 02:51 PM
I am thinking of going with coilovers and noticed the rear in our cars only have springs with no strut/shocks. How would coilovers work for the rears?

The CTS has dampeners on all corners of course but in the rear the shock is separate from the coil. Ever suspension company will approach this differently however, mot commonly they will replace the coil and have an adjustable perch and a new dampener.

Check this link for my notes/comments on Coilovers.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2008-2013-cadillac-cts-performance-mods/282074-coilovers.html#post3247620

*CTS*
04-21-14, 09:50 AM
Great write up. Thanks......I'll be doing this

leroy_ctscoupe
04-22-14, 08:51 PM
That looks great. Thanks for posting the step by step process. SICK CTS Coupe!

jamiejam1
05-24-14, 12:04 PM
Looks great! I have the kit waiting to go in myself.. Question I have is how bad is the cambering in the rear & Front? Is there any seriously poor wear on the tires? ( Is the camber adjustable on the car or does anyone make a camber kit for the car to address the negative camber? although id expect a little more wear, I don't want to constantly eat up 600.00 in tires every 5 months... Input please! :)

Panzer Leader
05-28-14, 10:11 AM
I have seen alignment kits available for the CTS... In fact, they are recommended if you lower the car.. In addition to the lowering, I think larger sway bars are a must.... Also get rid of the OEM tires. And then slowly replace the OEM bushings at specific points with poly bushings. One thing I liked about my 2010 CTS with the FE1 was the steering ratio. Better than the 2013 with the FE2, had a heavier feel to it... Improved tires would be a great help.

is250sp
05-28-14, 11:08 AM
I have seen alignment kits available for the CTS... In fact, they are recommended if you lower the car.. In addition to the lowering, I think larger sway bars are a must.... Also get rid of the OEM tires. And then slowly replace the OEM bushings at specific points with poly bushings. One thing I liked about my 2010 CTS with the FE1 was the steering ratio. Better than the 2013 with the FE2, had a heavier feel to it... Improved tires would be a great help.

Can you provide links to camber kits for 2nd CTS as I haven't been able to find any

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Looks great! I have the kit waiting to go in myself.. Question I have is how bad is the cambering in the rear & Front? Is there any seriously poor wear on the tires? ( Is the camber adjustable on the car or does anyone make a camber kit for the car to address the negative camber? although id expect a little more wear, I don't want to constantly eat up 600.00 in tires every 5 months... Input please! :)

I haven't been able to find any camber kits for our cars and mine is lowered on coilovers at least 2.5" drop. I did get an alignment but they were only able to adjust the toe. My tires lasted exactly one year.

jamiejam1
05-28-14, 11:43 AM
Can you provide links to camber kits for 2nd CTS as I haven't been able to find any

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I haven't been able to find any camber kits for our cars and mine is lowered on coilovers at least 2.5" drop. I did get an alignment but they were only able to adjust the toe. My tires lasted exactly one year. Got mine in Last night What a difference .8 & .9 can make. The ride is nice and tight, The only thing I noticed was it was not really bouncy in the back but it was a touch more reactive to bumps.. I guess having not been on Eibachs for the last 6 years I have to get used to the ride again.
In the turns ( I did a Nascar scrub (weaving) as soon as I got it off the jack stands)) and I can tell you the reaction of the steering is SUPURB!
Very responsive no creaks noises or other!

Heres a pic Post drop.. BTW When I put on the rims and Tires, I put on a 20" rim but went with a 40 Series tire. I did this to Increase the cars actual height to 1/8" above OEM Height this filled the wheel well a little more. Additionally I wanted to slightly smoother ride ( Like a cadi' not a dropped civic***.) After the kit went on, it dropped the Body .8" but the realized drop is about a 1/2" below OEM Now it stands flushed, Lowered filled Wheel Well, and I can still just clear Parking Bumps and curbs without damaging anything on the front end.. The filled wheel well makes it look lower than it actually is.. Mission accomplished!

Oh and FTW I painted the calipers Brembo Red just to offset the black color, Silver Rims, with a little contrast... Eventually I will get a new set of Calipers and have them Powdercoated till I have an extra 8K for a BBK..... :)