Can anyone tell me the easiest way to access the Auto. Level compressor relay? Do I go from the top, removing the air filter, or under the fender from the wheel well? I'm just trying to save some time, and it's cold outside.


Well, I changed the rear shocks with Monroe MaxAir units. I got them for $85.00, on sale. They are usually $119/pr. The stock OEM units, which are becoming harder to find were $215 each at the Chevy dealer. I had one leaky OEM unit and 126k mi on the pair. I must say, the OEM units are a little larger in diameter, and seem to be a heavier unit all around, but cost drove me to convert to the Monroes.

Installation went ok with the normal rusty bolt issues. I'm glad I have small arms and hands, because you have to get an offset 13mm box wrench, or a small head ratchet on top of the two upper shock mounting bolts.

Also, the head of the bolt is a 10mm fitting, and the nut is 13mm. You would never guess the top nut is a different size from the bolt head. Being rusty also made the socket fitting deceiving because the removal is a blind operation. You can't see the top of the shock mounting bracket under the rear seat back.
It was a pain to say the least.

My wife drives the Brougham Fltwd., so I don't keep completely up with all its maintenance issues untill they start to anoy her. I now discovered the level control isn't working at all. All the fuses are good. I electrically bypassed the control sensor assembly over the rear axle, but the compressor didn't kick on. My next check is the compressor relay, thus my initial question.

thanks

DUDE, UNLESS YOU TOW OR CARRY A LOT OF WEIGHT IN THE TRUNK, DON'T WORRY ABOUT THAT RIDE LEVELING SHEET. AS LONG AS YOUR SPRINGS ARE GOOD, YOU ARE FINE. :cool:
I WAS INFORMED BY A RELIABLE SOURCE, THAT SYSTEM WAS ADDED ON AS A MONEY-MAKER. MOST OWNERS OF THESE CARS ARE CLUELESS LAMBCHOPS AND IF THE DEALER SAYS THEY NEED A NEW RIDE LEVELER, THEY FORK OVER THE THOUSAND BUCKS. NO QUESTIONS ASKED. :bonkers:

I don't think I'd call it a "money-maker" but the fact is that the springs "should" be able to support the car in most instances. The ELC system is really just there to help maintain Cadillac ride quality during heavier load situations that would normally cause sagging and bottoming. It also aids overall handling and stability during those situations.
The compressor and relay are most easily reached from below unfortunately. There's also a "test" terminal hanging with the compressor that when grounded, should run the compressor.

Could you, or would you recommend, switching over to the regular gas pressured shocks and disconnecting the ride level?

If you want to basically get rid of the ELC system, the best choice would probably be to install "load-leveler" springs. These are progressive spring-rate springs that give nice ride when unloaded and then firm-up as they are loaded. I've used them on many Cadillacs and had great success with them. Once you have them, you can toss the air shocks and replace them with standard ones, or install a schrader valve in the trunk so you can pump them up manually if you ever need.

If you want to basically get rid of the ELC system, the best choice would probably be to install "load-leveler" springs. These are progressive spring-rate springs that give nice ride when unloaded and then firm-up as they are loaded. I've used them on many Cadillacs and had great success with them. Once you have them, you can toss the air shocks and replace them with standard ones, or install a schrader valve in the trunk so you can pump them up manually if you ever need.
Does the factory level system have a valve like this?

Hey guys, thanks for the info. I did figure out from the manual that the compressor access was from the wheel well. It's the type of information that is not explicitly stated.

I did consider the coil over shocks, but really want to keep as many OEM systems functional for as long as possible. I know the compressor system is very expensive to replace or repair, so if I determine that is where the problem is located, I'll go with the external valve to manually inflate the shocks. The trunk is a good option.

I'm spending time on this system, because I do have the factory tow package, and with the class 3 hitch installed (and anything in the trunk), I scrape the driveway every time entering and exiting.

I ran through the service manual diagnostics for the auto. leveling system. It turned out to be a bad compressor relay. I was able to bypass the relay and get some air in the new shocks. The rear end is floating on cloud 9.
I've gotten use to the car dragg'n but for so long, I don't know if I like it up high or not. :2thumbs:

How did you bypass, do tell!!!

Scottie

My electrical diagnostic skills are nothing to brag about. My specialty is mechanical, but 30 years of trial and error do count for something. I give all the credit to the service manual with the listed troubleshooting hints and system diagnostics.

The level control connector (above the rear axle) can be bypassed by jumpering connector contacts "B" with "A" ("A" goes to ground).

The compressor relay (left front of wheel well) can be bypassed by jumpering connectors #30 with #87. Both of these locations take the electrical component (in this case the automatic level control senrol assy. and the compressor relay) out of the circuit. The air compressor started when I bypassed the relay. I also checked out the electrical lines on the coil/energized side of the relay. They checked out ok.

Also, three fuses are used with the level control system: Maxfuse #9 (under hood electrical center), and I/P fuses 12 and 26.

There is still the possibility of the level control unit over the axle being bad, but I think that is rather remote. I'll find out when I relpace the compressor relay. It is a "solid state" unit, and the diagnostics basically take it out of the picture first and focus on the electrical components up front with the compressor.

My service manual was definitely a valuable investment. It has paid for itself many times in service and repair bills. I may not have the time or tools to tackle the big projects, but the cost of all the little things would eat my checking account up if I didn't have the ability to do all or some of the work myself.

My leveling system was not working and has been completely taken out. When I have just one person in the back, I can feel the difference.

My leveling system was not working and has been completely taken out. When I have just one person in the back, I can feel the difference.

FLY, INSTALL HEAVY-DUTY CARGO SPRINGS IN THE REAR. YOU WILL SEE THE DIFFERENCE. :)
:drinker

Oh, but I want the leveling!

Better crack out the check book then. If your entire original system was removed, it'll be expensive to re-install it.

Supafly, as Kat said, to get back to the OEM system, it would be expensive, unless you found a system in the yard.

The other alternative for air shocks would be to install the Monroe MaxAir and run the air fill up to the trunk or some other access location. You could then simply pump them up with an air hose when you wanted more rear clearance.

However, I think the coil-over shocks and/or the heavy duty springs mentioned above would be just fine for any Fltwd. application. That's what I would have gone with, if the air compressor or other expensive parts on my Fltwd. had been bad.

Hello All - I am new here. The air ride compressor on my '96 has been running excessively, so I removed the fuse and am now running on the unassisted springs. Without a load, the ride height and overall performance is acceptable (I really don't notice a difference; then again, I do need new front shocks...!). The compressor is expensive, so I'm considering installing the Monroe air-shocks. I do have the factory tow package with a Class-3 motorcycle trailer that I only use occasionally, so I wouldn't mind setting the ride with an air hose as needed.

Questions:
#1 - Who sells the "HD cargo"/"progressive-rate" springs? Any specifics?
#2 - Is Katshot saying that the original shocks can be "plumbed" to fill with air manually? I hadn't thought of that...
Thank you.
DA

ALL major spring manufacturers sell progressive-rate springs. Usually called something like "Load-Levelers" or something similar. YES, you can manually pump-up the OEM shocks if you want. The air lines are standard 1/8" air-shock hose, so it's easy to install the hardware needed. The only problem you'll probably have is that you mentioned that the compressor runs excessively, so that means there's a leak(s). If the leak is the shocks themselves, or the hose(s) near the shocks that you would most likely be re-using, then the shocks will not stay pumped up.

Thanks. I hadn't thought about plumbing an air line into the existing ride system as one alternative. And I will look for leaks first, then investigate the compressor itself. Great advice.

I like the ELC on my Fleetwood, I didn't like having to replace the two rear shocks in 2003, but I got a "GM Goodwrench" repair, which I won't be paying for air shocks ever again on this car. If you are towing, you need to keep the ELC running because that's what will keep your car level. You don't want your car looking like it is about to take off into the sky! Also, loading up either trunk or back seat wilt a missing or failed ELC will cause the rear to sag. Cadillac uses lower rate springs in their ELC equipped vihicles, so unless you put in "spring shock combos" or manually filled air shocks (a pain to use unless you have a portable compressor) then your best bet is to keep the ELC functioning.

The rear control unit over the differential actually has some adjustment options to raise or lower the rear of the car by about 1.5 inches total. You can use this for a extra boost if you have a steep driveway but it might keep the rear of the car too high and put too much of a load on your front end.

Mike, It's getting to the point where the GM OEM parts are harder and harder to find. When I was investigating the shocks for my Fltwd. The local Chevy dealer said the air shocks were listed as NLA. He just happen to have a pair in the warehouse. Maybe he was trying to make a case, so I would buy them, but at $215. each, I wasn't going to bite. I always get my GM parts from this dealer, so I don't think he was steering me wrong.

Mike, It's getting to the point where the GM OEM parts are harder and harder to find. When I was investigating the shocks for my Fltwd. The local Chevy dealer said the air shocks were listed as NLA. He just happen to have a pair in the warehouse. Maybe he was trying to make a case, so I would buy them, but at $215. each, I wasn't going to bite. I always get my GM parts from this dealer, so I don't think he was steering me wrong.

Hi Scurling,

If you are going to KEEP the car, for at least 3-4 more years, then try to get the shocks (if that's what is bad) replaced at a GM Goodwrench dealer, GM goodwrench shops have a "lifetime warranty" (as long as you own the car, sort of like some of the muffler shops, etc) on certain type parts, INCLUDING shocks / struts, AC compressers, etc. It sure costs extra (I can't remember would have to look it up) but that's the last set of rear shocks you'll buy for that car. Most Cadillac dealers and some Chevy / Buick dealers (Roadmaster and Caprice from same era were SAME chassis) are GM goodwrench shops. I'm not plugging for dealers, my local Cadillac dealer has taken overpricing to a fine art - they charged me a shop fee - 10% :madtalkin on two parts that my wife PICKED UP (and that I later installed) Talk about brass. They have the HOTTEST looking svc advisor on the planet however, so I keep going back there for more. :devil:

Tell me about parts NLA, my shift indicator won't move off of "P", the car shifts normally. There is a broken / disconnected cable and previously one could by the cable kit, now they will only sell the WHOLE instrument panel cluster (IPC) and that's the one thing I HATE about this car - the digital dash. so I'm probably SOL if I can't fine a used IPC ad a "junkyard".

Try to get to know the parts mgr at either a Cadillac or Chevy dealer, you'll eventually be able to get some nice discounts on parts. It has paid off for me nicely this past year. I got a 12 disc changer for my 2000 Eldorado for $500.00 (plus $30.00 to get installed by my salesman friend) when the thing listed at over $700.00 and the "employee cost" in their computer was nearly $600.00!!! Then an Alternator was almost $100.00 off "retail". I go see the parts mgr BEFORE seeing the service folks - especially if its something I think I can replace. I even bought a steering wheel position sensor from the parts mgr at like $50.00 off and brought it around front to the hottie (she is gorgeous) svc mgr and had them install it for me. I paid their sky high labor rate, but got the parts saving!:thumbsup:

What exactly does a 'steering wheel position sensor' do? What in the vehicle monitors the position of the steering wheel?

What exactly does a 'steering wheel position sensor' do? What in the vehicle monitors the position of the steering wheel?

Its a lliitle doughnut shaped resistor thingie that goes on the steering column just on the engine side of the firewall. Its purpose is to monitor the position of the steering wheel from center so that the speed sensitive steering gizmo feature works. If it fails (mine did) then you get full power assist at all times and on a Fleetwood you don't want that, the wheel feels too mushy on the highway, so I had mine replaced. I had to have them do it, because the thing is a circle not U shaped so the steering column had to be separated, and I wasn't about to tacke that in my driveway.

Mike,

Good advice all around. Sounds like you are a real wheeler and dealer. I know what you mean about the parts and service prices at Cadialla dealers. That's why I have started using the local Chevy dealer. He's also a lot closer to my house.

Well, I have already installed the Monroe air units. With all my diagnosing, I still have a open in the power circuit that goes back to the level sensor. I think it is actually in the connector/plug on the harness. At least I hope it's there. The wiring diagram shows no connections or splices from the front compressor to the rear sensor. It's been raining all day, so I'll be waiting a little longer to get this completely fixed.

my understanding is that shock absorbers in addition to the springs are essential for proper handling ... bringing the wheels back into contact with the road faster after hitting a bump... and that running without shocks is fairly dangerous

Bowser

If you have never driven a car without shocks, it's a real trip. There's nothing to dampen the spring movement, so the car is always moving up and down. I wouldn't recommend it for anyone but your worst enemy.

Just an FYI,
You don't need to buy the shocks from a dealer. AC Delco sells them through parts distributors. The only difference is in the air line hook-up. They are a standard screw-on type like all aftermarket air shocks. Only the ones from the dealer have the clip-on type hook-ups. You'll also need an adapter kit that the Delco distributor should stock along with the shocks.

Could you possibly wire a switch in so that you could manually turn on the compressor or bleed off air as you wanted?

Yes, you could set up a manual operation, but you would have to electrically bypass (remove) the level control unit over the axle. That unit automatically does what you want to do manually. It keeps the car at a predetermined level height by adding or removing air in the system.

My wife drives the Brougham Fltwd., so I don't keep completely up with all its maintenance issues untill they start to anoy her. I now discovered the level control isn't working at all. All the fuses are good. I electrically bypassed the control sensor assembly over the rear axle, but the compressor didn't kick on. My next check is the compressor relay, thus my initial question.

thanks

The previous owner of my FWB said he had to twice fix the connector at the compressor for water entry causing corrosion. Give that a shot.

Tom

NoDih

Thanks. I have since done more testing and found an open circuit from the compressor to the rear level unit. It's been cold and wet, so I haven't had good enough weather to find the exact connector that's causing the problem. I have unwrapped portions of the wiring harnes to access the exact wires. the open seems to be past the compressor, most likely at the "next" connector going to the rear of the car.

Have you seen the external connector below the left rear passenger door? I've wondered why they didn't just run continuous wiring to the back of the car. Seems like just another connector to cause problems.