: Remote car starter/battery/alternator problems



zunie75
02-14-13, 12:34 PM
Hi, I have a 2003 base escalade which I bought second hand. For the last month I have been having this problem where the
vehicle will be sitting outside for 8-12 hours. I will go to turn on the car and it will be in varying stages of what appears to be a dead battery. A boost always has got the car running again.

After a boost, if I drive the car immediately around the city I can feel the car losing power and the battery gauge will dip
when I am slowing down for a stop, reversing even turning. Some times it will die, and then I will have to turn the ignition
again. If I let the car idle for an hour or so, the battery seems to charge fully and I don't have this power dip problem until the car sits again.

After a long drive, 45 min of highway for example, the car usually is good for a day or two (unless the weather is really cold)

I have had tests done on it, and they have indicated its not the alternator or the batter. Some have suggested that the
remote car starter (I bought this second had, and was not given the starter nor was I aware at the time there was one)
could be drawing power when the car is shut off.

Is there a way to disconnect the starter/interrupt its power draw with out having to take it into a shop and be charged a few
hundred dollars?

the cadillac man
02-14-13, 12:44 PM
Hi, I have a 2003 base escalade which I bought second hand. For the last month I have been having this problem where the
vehicle will be sitting outside for 8-12 hours. I will go to turn on the car and it will be in varying stages of what appears to be a dead battery. A boost always has got the car running again.

After a boost, if I drive the car immediately around the city I can feel the car losing power and the battery gauge will dip
when I am slowing down for a stop, reversing even turning. Some times it will die, and then I will have to turn the ignition
again. If I let the car idle for an hour or so, the battery seems to charge fully and I don't have this power dip problem until the car sits again.

After a long drive, 45 min of highway for example, the car usually is good for a day or two (unless the weather is really cold)

I have had tests done on it, and they have indicated its not the alternator or the batter. Some have suggested that the
remote car starter (I bought this second had, and was not given the starter nor was I aware at the time there was one)
could be drawing power when the car is shut off.

Is there a way to disconnect the starter/interrupt its power draw with out having to take it into a shop and be charged a few
hundred dollars?

Try a new battery they can show good at times and be bad in the truck
But the remote starter is aftermarket as the second gen escalade didn't have remote start from factory

Caddy2004X
02-14-13, 09:52 PM
No don't purchase a battery. Have the remote professionally removed first, with the ability to reinstall it for a low price. A remote start doest and won't drain the battery. Their may be another issue as to how it was connected to the system, because I'm sure that you have the full after market alarm installed. Alarms usually don't consume that much power. If you have a acid battery and your in a very cold enviroment that could be an issue. Washing your engine and not protecting your alt from being splashed with water could be an issue. When your truck is dead put a meter on your battery, it ahoud atleast read about 11-12 volts. If you get a jump and the vehicle runs it may not be your alt either. It may be something else. if you have a friend with an extra battery ask him if you can use it first. Don't go out and waste your money on a battery if that may not be the issue. Alarms don't consume that much power to drain your battery. Send me a message upon your results Thank you I hope this helps.

wake
02-15-13, 11:09 AM
No don't purchase a battery. Have the remote professionally removed first, with the ability to reinstall it for a low price. A remote start doest and won't drain the battery. Their may be another issue as to how it was connected to the system, because I'm sure that you have the full after market alarm installed. Alarms usually don't consume that much power. If you have a acid battery and your in a very cold enviroment that could be an issue. Washing your engine and not protecting your alt from being splashed with water could be an issue. When your truck is dead put a meter on your battery, it ahoud atleast read about 11-12 volts. If you get a jump and the vehicle runs it may not be your alt either. It may be something else. if you have a friend with an extra battery ask him if you can use it first. Don't go out and waste your money on a battery if that may not be the issue. Alarms don't consume that much power to drain your battery. Send me a message upon your results Thank you I hope this helps.

I agree, try this first. I had this problem with my STS when I first purchased it. It took me two weeks to figure out the problem but it was a crappy electrical installation of a rear seat entertainment system that was the cause. The power on wire was tapped into one of the cars computer leads (don't remember which computer) but it kept the car's systems alive after the car was shut down and would kill the battery quickly after the car was shut down. I disconnected power to my aftermarket rear entertainment system and my power drain problem went away.

I also had a similar problem with my Escalade, it turned out to be the starter. After sitting a couple of days it wouldn't start and it left me stranded one night 50 miles from home. Turned out in my Escalade the starter had a soft short in the solenoid. It turned over just fine but would drain the battery. After examining the battery and starter cables I took a chance on a new starter and never had a reoccurrence of the problem. The starter never acted funny and it cranked the engine normally when the battery wasn't dead, and I never found it to be hot on a cold engine. I never experienced a starter failure like that before, they usually either work or don't, or maybe weak in turning the engine over slowly so it baffled me a little bit.

You can pull the fuse for the starter to see if it's the same problem I had, I believe it's a 30A marked IGN1 in the fuse box, not the one labeled starter as that is the actual power to the starter motor. The one I'm referring to is a larger square, green plastic body fuse that looks more like a relay than a fuse. That should be the one that feeds power to the starter solenoid.

If its not that, I'd be more inclined to think it was the remote start installation (if it's new) or the electronics of the remote start failing that was the problem.

the cadillac man
02-15-13, 12:24 PM
I agree, try this first. I had this problem with my STS when I first purchased it. It took me two weeks to figure out the problem but it was a crappy electrical installation of a rear seat entertainment system that was the cause. The power on wire was tapped into one of the cars computer leads (don't remember which computer) but it kept the car's systems alive after the car was shut down and would kill the battery quickly after the car was shut down. I disconnected power to my aftermarket rear entertainment system and my power drain problem went away.

I also had a similar problem with my Escalade, it turned out to be the starter. After sitting a couple of days it wouldn't start and it left me stranded one night 50 miles from home. Turned out in my Escalade the starter had a soft short in the solenoid. It turned over just fine but would drain the battery. After examining the battery and starter cables I took a chance on a new starter and never had a reoccurrence of the problem. The starter never acted funny and it cranked the engine normally when the battery wasn't dead, and I never found it to be hot on a cold engine. I never experienced a starter failure like that before, they usually either work or don't, or maybe weak in turning the engine over slowly so it baffled me a little bit.

You can pull the fuse for the starter to see if it's the same problem I had, I believe it's a 30A marked IGN1 in the fuse box, not the one labeled starter as that is the actual power to the starter motor. The one I'm referring to is a larger square, green plastic body fuse that looks more like a relay than a fuse. That should be the one that feeds power to the starter solenoid.

If its not that, I'd be more inclined to think it was the remote start installation (if it's new) or the electronics of the remote start failing that was the problem.

There is one labeled crank in the under hood fuse box (not sure how it is in with the starter)

zunie75
02-15-13, 04:25 PM
Thanks every one. I will try your suggestions.

A little more information. I boosted the car, and had it sit idling for about an hour. Then I disconnected the negative battery terminal, made sure it touched no metal, and let it sit over night. After about 15 hours, i reconnected, and the car would once again not turn over. Dash indicators and interior lights were coming on however...

the cadillac man
02-15-13, 04:28 PM
Thanks every one. I will try your suggestions.

A little more information. I boosted the car, and had it sit idling for about an hour. Then I disconnected the negative battery terminal, made sure it touched no metal, and let it sit over night. After about 15 hours, i reconnected, and the car would once again not turn over. Dash indicators and interior lights were coming on however...

Sounds like the starter

zunie75
02-15-13, 04:39 PM
Could it be multiple problems, ie starter and bad battery? Because why would the car lose power while driving if it was just the starter?

In the way that, once I boost it, if I drive immediately the battery gauge will start to dip when i stop/turn etc and I can feel the car start to die. Once I come to a full stop however, it usually jumps back up to where it should be.

the cadillac man
02-15-13, 05:28 PM
Could it be multiple problems, ie starter and bad battery? Because why would the car lose power while driving if it was just the starter?

In the way that, once I boost it, if I drive immediately the battery gauge will start to dip when i stop/turn etc and I can feel the car start to die. Once I come to a full stop however, it usually jumps back up to where it should be.

What do the gauges do when the truck loses power(eg dip, act odd or) and is there any error messages in the DIC below the speedometer(eg reduced power enabled)
I ask as I had the PCM fail in my truck and the gauges went nuts and I got the reduced engine power message (along with 5 other messages) before it shut the engine down and disabled the starter

I had the truck towed home checked the wiring and when I didn't find no shorts I had it towed to the dealer (the PCM had developed a internal short due to age)

zunie75
02-17-13, 04:14 PM
It has shown the reduced power message before. This has'nt come on in a few weeks however. When the truck loses power, the other gauges act normal with the exception of the battery gauge.

the cadillac man
02-17-13, 04:48 PM
It has shown the reduced power message before. This has'nt come on in a few weeks however. When the truck loses power, the other gauges act normal with the exception of the battery gauge.

Sounds like the voltage regulator (which is in the PCM) but to be safe and rule out the alternator it needs to be tested first

The reason is if the voltage drops below a certain threshold the PCM shuts the engine down(along with itself)

Same if it goes over a certain voltage

Mykill322
02-19-13, 06:55 PM
I was having the same problem with my battery. It would randomly be dead after sitting. My voltage gauge would dip from 15-16 down to 10-11 and the dash lights and headlights would dim I also had a low idle when turning and coming to a stop and occasionally when fully stopped. My problem was a bad cell in my battery and a dirty throttle body. I replaced the battery with an AGM battery and cleaned the throttle body. There is a great "how to" thread here for the throttle body cleaning. It made an incredible difference in my truck.

the cadillac man
02-19-13, 07:35 PM
I was having the same problem with my battery. It would randomly be dead after sitting. My voltage gauge would dip from 15-16 down to 10-11 and the dash lights and headlights would dim I also had a low idle when turning and coming to a stop and occasionally when fully stopped. My problem was a bad cell in my battery and a dirty throttle body. I replaced the battery with an AGM battery and cleaned the throttle body. There is a great "how to" thread here for the throttle body cleaning. It made an incredible difference in my truck.

Mine was the same way when I got it cleaned both the throttle body and the battery terminals and the problem although I had to replace the battery due a module failing