: Rear wheel hub removal



kbf250
02-13-13, 09:58 PM
I know some of you have replaced yours and I would like
to know what is the easiest way to get them out. How do
you get a wrench on the hub bolts with the cv joint there?

Any info would be much appreciated.
Thanks,

Kirk

TimmyC
02-15-13, 01:24 AM
You have to take a bunch of stuff apart to get those out. You have to be able to swing the knuckle out to get the axle out, then you can take the hub off. Think ball joints. Take anything connected to the knuckle with a ball joint off. It's not that hard but takes a while.

beyerch
03-15-13, 09:40 PM
I just took the whole knuckle ??? ( I believe that is the official term for the part the hub mates to?) ?? off of the car and then zipped the 3 bolts out no problem.

I *TRIED* to do it on the car and pushed the axle back as far as I felt comfortable with and still didn't think I had enough clearance for my tools. After spending about 35 minutes of goofing around and debating, I dropped the knuckle in about 5 minutes since at the point you are ready to push the axle back and remove the shaft, you only have to release two more suspension pieces from the bottom....

I wasn't really worried about alignment issues as I have a "lifetime alignment" membership at a shop locally so I just stopped back in afterwards. I have to do the other side at some point and I'm going to drop it from the start and not even mess around.

YoungBlood_STSV
12-16-13, 11:11 AM
Morning Everyone,

I didn't think a new thread was necessary so I'm going to continue this one...I had a rear hub go bad on me over the weekend. I'm looking for a replacement now, can anyone verify this is the correct Timken part #?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TIMKEN-HA590079-Rear-Wheel-Hub-Bearing-6-Lug-w-ABS-for-Cadillac-SRX-STS-V-/130887646470?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e7982fd06

To those who have done this replacment in the driveway - how hard would you rate it (1-10) and about how much time did it take you?

beyerch
12-24-13, 05:43 AM
That looks like the correct part ..

It's not hard if you take your time. I had trouble getting to the 3 bolts in the back holding the hub in place, so I just dropped the knuckle out and remove it that way. I spent more time trying to figure out how to get to the 3 hub bolts with the knuckle on the car than just using my air tool to get the knuckle free, etc... $.02

ssstealth
12-24-13, 11:54 PM
I concur...

I just did this swap a few weeks ago after I got a warning light on the dash about traction control and stability system. I hit the OnStar button and after a little prodding, the nice girl on the other end told me it was the right rear wheel bearing! I was impressed. I was actually a little glad to hear this because I thought I had just wasted $600 dollars on a set of tires that were going to drive me nuts from the road noise. Swapped out the bearing and all is quiet again.

I did use the Timken HA590079. It was $115 compared to a $58 generic that they had but you don't want to do this job every few months.

As mentioned above, don't be tempted to get those 3 hub retainer bolts out with the knuckle in place. It looks like you can get them all and you might be able to get a tool on one of them but you will never be able to get enough torque or rotation on all of them. Grab your 18mm socket and drop all of the connections from the unit. I used a cordless impact driver and it was a breeze. There are none of these connections that affect the alignment if unbolted at the knuckle side. Once you slide the knuckle off of the axle, you can get to the hub bolts easy.

wake
12-25-13, 12:26 PM
I did use the Timken HA590079. It was $115 compared to a $58 generic that they had but you don't want to do this job every few months.

Very good point.

I learned my lesson with cheap eBay bearings. I had two vehicles that the cheap bearings didn't last a year and had to the job a second time on. I'd have rather spent an extra $200 on replacements than do the job a second time.


As mentioned above, don't be tempted to get those 3 hub retainer bolts out with the knuckle in place. It looks like you can get them all and you might be able to get a tool on one of them but you will never be able to get enough torque or rotation on all of them.

I haven't done this job on the Caddy yet but I found the bolts much easier to remove if you hit them with heat first. Every setup I've seen used loc-tite from the factory which is near impossible to break loose with hand tools if you don't heat them first.