View Full Version : Engine Temperature

12-29-04, 12:36 PM
What is normal operating temperature/coolant temperature for the N*? I am reading 206-210 after about a 30minute highway drive on a cool day. Sound normal? At what temperature do the radiator fans kick on?

12-29-04, 01:06 PM
Perfectly normal. The fans will run most all the time with the AC on to maintain air flow over the condensor but, in cold weather, when the AC compressor is disabled, the fans will run only when the coolant approaches 225.

12-29-04, 02:05 PM
Thanks bbob. What this is about...did a coolant drain and refill per recommendation of this forum. Drained 1 3/4gal. out and reilled with dex-cool. Biggest problem was getting the drain valve open on the bottom of the radiator (actually had to take my shirt sleeve off so I could reach my skinny arm down to reach it, but I got it (skinned up both arms), and yes I added the coolant tablets. Could not find them or the BARRS LEAK GOLDEN at the local part stores. Found the tablets at the dealership where I bought the car (99 DeVille 45K) cost $2.18 for a pack of five. I put three in (top radiator hose) the exact amount of coolant went back in...perfect! I did not make a total study of running temp before...thought I might be running about five degrees warmer. NOTE: I do have a service manual ($125) but a friend has borrowed it and I do not have it back yet. His is a problem with an oil leak (97 DeVille 45K). Dealership is telling him it is the oil manafold gasket and they are quoting him $2500 for engine removal and repairs...still on-going. Once again, THANKS bbob. One final note...you can not now buy the old PRESTONE green coolant. What they are selling as the green coolant is marked compatable with all coolants and the bottle is marked with the same ingrediants as DEX-COOL! Interesting!

12-29-04, 10:25 PM
Anyone interested in my 'tool' to help open the radiator drain?

I had a length of nice dowl rod, about 1 inch in diameter. I think a broom handle would not be too big and would work.
I cut about 4 inches off the rod.
I grabbed the nearest saw, which was a hacksaw. I sawed a grove across the end of the rod. About two or three saw blades wide. About 1/4 inch wide, about 1/2 inch deep.

Then, you have to jack the car up to get under it. Take off the plastic cover in front of the crossmember, 5 bolts. This will get you close to the drain from the bottom.

Slide the wood rod up and the cutout slot will fit over the raised ridge on the draincock. On my Deville, it will not fit squarely on it. The end of the rod will be accessible. Get pliers on the end, and loosen the draincock.

This works much better than anything else I've done. You can get a socket to hold on the ridge, but getting the right flex length extension and getting the drive on it was much more problem than my wood tool....

12-29-04, 10:41 PM
You need to post this in the "tech hints" section!!!

12-30-04, 02:00 AM
I had the same idea as LCLCLC, but I made mine out of spare piece of Copper Water pipe (1/2" dia, IIRC). I just grab the end with a pair of wice-grips and that makes it easier to loosen the draincock.

I had the hardest time finding the driancock in the first place as I expected it to be on the bottom (not on the side) of the radiator's side tank! Live and learn...


12-30-04, 08:28 AM
I can't understand why GM would put the petcock on the radiator in such an inaccessible spot in the first place, and I can't understand why anyone would attempt to use it in the second place. The much easier way is to just pull the bottom hose to drain the coolant. You get better flushing action that way with the rush of coolant when the hose is removed, than you do with the trickle you get using the rediculously located petcock.