Ok, If I read that correctly, there is NO DIFFERENCE what so ever in having disc brakes on the car besides:

A. Having better brake feel
B. Less nose dive

Now, would upgrading the rear drums and shoes to high performance, and performing the proportioning mod, with this help out at all?

Or, would I have better luck in:

1.) Upgrading the front calipers
2.) Pads
3.) Rotors

A new Game Plan:

1.) Have all my steel lines running from the front to the back of the car replaced, since they rotten, rusted, and spliced with couplings.
2.) Get new "High performance(Or "Fleet" type) Shoes and Drums.
3.) Turn my attention to the front, new calipers, slotted rotors and performance pads(NOT Z RATED :drinker ).

This will be so MUCH EASIER then hunting down new sensors, brake lines, cable, labor, etc...And cheaper too.

Would the proportioning mod be applicable for my "new game plan?" 10 percent off the front to the back really isnt that big a deal, 80 front and 20 rear really isnt that bad. Anyone?

http://impalassforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=35;t=000329;p=3#000 086

The overall test results -
1. The numbers for the straight disc conversion showed no statistical change to "efficiency", though there was remarkable absence of squat. The valving apparently sets the amount and timing of fluid going to the rear, and nothing in the combi valve was touched (just yet). And remember, I mentioned before here that rear discs with non-functional ABS makes the rears skid on wet without locking up the fronts. This is extremely NOT a desired condition, so I focused on getting the ABS back up operational ASAP. However, the change to all-disc did give a good firm consistant pedal all the way down with never a fade.

But, voila!, there is a marked increase in "Vehicle Efficiency" and "Front/Rear Balance" when the the rear disc conversion is coupled with the related stealth bolt installed.

The plate tester sets "theoretical ideal" F/R balance at 66.5%-33.5%. The baseline drum test showed 89.3%-10.7% F/R (only about 1/3 of the ideal if looking at the rear share). Again, the difference in F/R after just the disc change was not impressive, so I'm not mentioning it to reduce confusion.

However, the F/R share is 79.1%-20.9% after the stealth bolt was added. Now, 10.2% ADDITIONAL transfer from front to rear may not sound like a great deal, but it represents 100% increase over stock, going from 1/3 to almost 2/3 of ideal after the double mod.

In reply to what you quoted in your post I have the following to say.....

I disagree with what is stated about the rears locking up due to not having abs.

In fact I do not have abs and even during hard but Non-panic stops in raining weather I have not had my rears lock-up whatsoever NOT Once.

Yours lock-up either because you seem to not have done the metering mod which takes off the time delay from the front to back or there may be some other fault in your rear brakes.

I have had no skids whatsoever in rainy, snowy, or dry ground after my rear disc upgrade I did however replace both rear and front discs with all new parts and calipers with a full bleeding of my system.


Carguy16 I am certain the price for part will be virtually the same and You will still have a nose dive effect.

I don't know of a brake mod for 80-20% braking and no one will really recommend this.

I think discs outweigh a drums performance in hotter weather because they remain cooler and will give better braking all the time in comparison.

Check part for part and you'll be surprised with what you find about the prices....

Don't be cheap with the brakes because it's not something you should be picky about to begin with.

Do it right the first time and avoid future headaches.

I dont have the time or money for the disc brake conversion, if I did I would have done it and wouldnt be trying to cut corners to get it done.

Yes, disc brakes dont fade as easily as drums do, thats why I want 4 wheel disc brakes. I can just imagine making plenty of hard stops, or stops from high speeds, or slowing down from high speeds and just thinking about how hot my drums are getting, and If Im burning or glazing my shoes from all this heat.

Would a metering mod with front disc and rear drums be ok, 70 front and 30 rear? Wasnt that the norm anyways for other GM's that actually got the proportioning mod from the factory???

Not to mention, I didnt realize you had to pull the axle off the rear until a couple days ago to replace the rear drums with discs. I have so much corrosion on my axle, 108,000 miles, by the time it gets off I can gaurantee something is going to be wrong and in need of replacement.

At this point, its just easier to work on the drums and then the front discs. I dont have the money right now, If i were a mechanical genious or knew someone who were, I'd have it done by now.

After I get my steel lines replaced, the rear brakes are getting work done.

I dont have the time or money for the disc brake conversion, if I did I would have done it and wouldnt be trying to cut corners to get it done.

Yes, disc brakes dont fade as easily as drums do, thats why I want 4 wheel disc brakes. I can just imagine making plenty of hard stops, or stops from high speeds, or slowing down from high speeds and just thinking about how hot my drums are getting, and If Im burning or glazing my shoes from all this heat.

Would a metering mod with front disc and rear drums be ok, 70 front and 30 rear? Wasnt that the norm anyways for other GM's that actually got the proportioning mod from the factory???

Not to mention, I didnt realize you had to pull the axle off the rear until a couple days ago to replace the rear drums with discs. I have so much corrosion on my axle, 108,000 miles, by the time it gets off I can gaurantee something is going to be wrong and in need of replacement.

At this point, its just easier to work on the drums and then the front discs. I dont have the money right now, If i were a mechanical genious or knew someone who were, I'd have it done by now.

After I get my steel lines replaced, the rear brakes are getting work done.

One of the funniest things that has happened to me in the past many times and I know happens to many people is they overlook their friends friends.

Ask your friends if they know anyone who can do the install for you etc. It wil be cheaper than any shop and you won't get ripped off if the person is good at what they do.

Also begin with new front discs and pads if you have the money or just get the discs cut/resurfaced, buy new pads which will give the same pedal feel and the same braking performance as the new parts.

As for the drums you don't need to replace anything on them and changing the prop. 70-30 might have adverse effects.

Basically don't spend so much money and just drive carefully for now.

Trust me it's worth the wait I had to wait 3 years until I did any upgrades to my car this is my first year doing upgrades but I've done A LOT this year to every part my car.

Patience for now just buy a nice stereo and tune your car.