01-04-13, 01:42 PM
Long story short the guy before me had an aftermarket system and messed up the stock stuff, i fixed it. but he took out the rear door speakers, so im going to replace them. What would yall recommend? What RMS and whats the difference with 2ohm and 4ohm? looking for the most bang for my buck sort of thing.
01-04-13, 10:23 PM
eBay has tons of OEM speakers for cheap, nothing better than the original speaker.
01-05-13, 07:30 PM
i find that hard to believe.
01-05-13, 11:26 PM
This is a bit rude, you came for an advice and now you are arguing with me.
Is Ok I don’t mind.
01-05-13, 11:53 PM
If it's (was) the Bose system, the speakers are extremely head unit, wiring, amp, and (low) impedance-specific.......... and a Bose system CAN be set up and insulated/sound deadened/enclosed to sound teriffic. Just because a speaker, in and of itself, is not an Infinity, Polk, JL or other maker/rebrander does NOT mean it is any worse/better than OEM. Every day, automotive sound systems using stupidly priced components are assembled and by and large they sound horrible.
Advertised speaker "RMS power" is a cruel marketing joke - speakers DO NOT put out power - they are transducers which convert electrical signals to sound. In a proper enclosure a "400 Watt" speaker should be able to handle cyclic input of up to 400 Watts RMS - BUT, would you want to light up a speaker like a 400 Watt light bulb ?
A 2 Ohm impedance speaker should allow an amp to dump roughly twice the electrical power into it than would a 4 Ohm speaker. Think of impedance as a complex resistance to electrical flow vs. frequency. BUT - too low an impedance allows the amp to overload in its output attempts (the faucet is opened too much) and will generate large amounts of distortion.
(In the home audio business we had an insider snicker question: "What's worse than a poke in the eye ??" "A Polk in the ear !" and the old saw: "It's a Bose; No highs, no lows !")