: Ordered the RS lower control arm bushings, what did you use to press out the old one



V for victory
12-16-12, 01:03 PM
Need help, pics on how to remove the old bushings so I can continue the upgrades. What tools did you use? how long does it take, I'm assuming its an easy one compared to the diff bushing or MM's. Can't wait for some shock bushings too "RS are you listening" .LOL

verywhitedevil
12-16-12, 01:12 PM
shock bushings would be nice.

FuzzyLogic
12-16-12, 01:51 PM
The closest you'll find right now is this thread. Basically, I broke a 4" c-clamp trying to press them out and wound up drilling into them until they were weak enough to be torn out with a set of vise grips.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-performance/274392-alignment-friday-suggestions.html

NCOGNITO
12-16-12, 03:02 PM
The closest you'll find right now is this thread. Basically, I broke a 4" c-clamp trying to press them out and wound up drilling into them until they were weak enough to be torn out with a set of vise grips.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-performance/274392-alignment-friday-suggestions.html

I also bought the RevShift trailing arm bushings during the BF sale along with the trans insert , combining shipping and and 20% off made them a good bargain and have yet to install them. Installed the Trans insert last night with the help of your writeup Fuzzy, thank you! Have yet to drive it to see if it made a difference.

I saw a vague writeup on the TiC site about using a clamp and "some large sockets" for the trailing arm bushings, but it wasn't a complete guide at all. They were that big of a PITA to get out? I couldn't find a writeup either and asked on RS's Facebook page if there were installation instructions but haven't seen a response yet. Maybe they will provide a write up on removal, since there isn't one on their site. Your Trans insert guide should be posted on their site too IMHO.

AAIIIC
12-16-12, 04:17 PM
The closest you'll find right now is this thread. Basically, I broke a 4" c-clamp trying to press them out and wound up drilling into them until they were weak enough to be torn out with a set of vise grips.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-performance/274392-alignment-friday-suggestions.html
I'm really surprised you broke a C-clamp removing the trailing arm bushings. Mine came out in a matter of a couple of minutes each, and it honestly took very little effort due to how soft they were. I had a chunk of 2" pipe I used and just used a C-clamp to push the bushing out into the pipe. This forum makes it awfully hard to find older posts, but I did find this mention of someone else doing it the same way (http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-performance/219176-rear-trailing-arm-bushings-knuckle-anyone-post2653083.html#post2653083).

Anyway, with all that said, I've never done lower control arm bushings, so I don't have any advice for those. Let us know what you figure out, V for victory!

FuzzyLogic
12-16-12, 04:40 PM
In retrospect, if I had to do it again, I'd buy one of those little propane torches and burn that thing out. I'll probably pick one up before tackling the subframe bushings next week, because I don't have a second car to drive to Home Depot if something goes wrong. One of these days, I'm going to webcast one of my installations so you can laugh at me freezing my butt off outside!

Revshift
12-16-12, 05:15 PM
The oem trailing arm bushings should come out fairly easily. We use a two jaw puller. You just have to make sure the jaws stay seated and don't pop off while you are tightening it. It should only take a few minutes to remove each oem bushing.

101224

NCOGNITO
12-16-12, 05:27 PM
I'm really surprised you broke a C-clamp removing the trailing arm bushings. Mine came out in a matter of a couple of minutes each, and it honestly took very little effort due to how soft they were. I had a chunk of 2" pipe I used and just used a C-clamp to push the bushing out into the pipe. This forum makes it awfully hard to find older posts, but I did find this mention of someone else doing it the same way (http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-performance/219176-rear-trailing-arm-bushings-knuckle-anyone-post2653083.html#post2653083).

Anyway, with all that said, I've never done lower control arm bushings, so I don't have any advice for those. Let us know what you figure out, V for victory!
Thanks, I read this thread and apparently glazed over where people were talking about pipe diameters. Thanks!



In retrospect, if I had to do it again, I'd buy one of those little propane torches and burn that thing out. I'll probably pick one up before tackling the subframe bushings next week, because I don't have a second car to drive to Home Depot if something goes wrong. One of these days, I'm going to webcast one of my installations so you can laugh at me freezing my butt off outside!
I've spent a couple of years in CT, no idea how you're doing all of your work outside with only a carport and one car :-D *kudos*

----------


The oem trailing arm bushings should come out fairly easily. We use a two jaw puller. You just have to make sure the jaws stay seated and don't pop off while you are tightening it. It should only take a few minutes to remove each oem bushing.


Dang, that's a better idea than a C-Clamp. I have a smaller 3 jaw puller that I can use, what exactly are you doing with it? Putting the jaw ends on the backside and tightening the bolt/screw against the sleeve or a large washer over the bushing and sleeve to force it out the other side?

FuzzyLogic
12-16-12, 05:53 PM
I've spent a couple of years in CT, no idea how you're doing all of your work outside with only a carport and one car :-D

In a word, "quickly!" Every weekend's worth of modifications have to be concluded by Sunday night--otherwise I can't go to work. I usually work 15-18 hour days on the car on those days.

Sometimes mistakes happen due to fatigue. Like the time I removed the brake calipers to change the rotors and forgot to pump the brakes a couple of times to prime them. Wound up finding out that I had no brakes coming out of my neighborhood at 30 mph, accidentally blew through stop sign, through the intersection, and caught at least three feet of air down the very steep hill into the adjacent neighborhood. Thank heavens I had 800 and 850 in-lb linear springs to keep me from bottoming out and wrecking all four fenders. I landed squarely, too. Definitely one of those "check your pants" experiences.

V for victory
12-16-12, 07:55 PM
OK, I just bit the bullet and tackled this project. Went to Sears Hardware and bought several things for the task:

1-1 11/16 socket 3/4 drive
1- 1/2" threaded bolt 8 inches long
4- 1/2" washers
1- 1/2" nut

Tools needed from the big red box:

21MM box wrench and 3/4" 21MM socket
18MM box wrench For brake caliper
Electric impact gun or whatever you have
T30 socket for removal of rotor
3/4" wrench and socket for using on threaded 8" bolt to extract rubber bushing

This just worked like a charm. Pulled the old one out with no problem. I took some photos but have to resize them to post. working on it now

V for victory
12-16-12, 08:02 PM
Parts from Sears
101240


Ready to extract bushing
101241

bushing out clean
101242

Old Bushing out on the floor where it belongs
101243



I will need another 8 inch threaded bolt and nut as the threads were stretched a bit and dont want to chance it when I do the other side.

V for victory
12-16-12, 08:09 PM
The oem trailing arm bushings should come out fairly easily. We use a two jaw puller. You just have to make sure the jaws stay seated and don't pop off while you are tightening it. It should only take a few minutes to remove each oem bushing.

101224

I think my method was very easy and the 1 11/16 socket fit perfectly on the lower control arm, and the old rubber bushing fit right inside the socket when pulled out. Now RS make some shock bushing for the control arm so I can press that POS out too. My car will sit on jack stands until all bushing have arrived and installed at this point.

NCOGNITO
12-16-12, 08:56 PM
In a word, "quickly!" Every weekend's worth of modifications have to be concluded by Sunday night--otherwise I can't go to work. I usually work 15-18 hour days on the car on those days.

Sometimes mistakes happen due to fatigue. Like the time I removed the brake calipers to change the rotors and forgot to pump the brakes a couple of times to prime them. Wound up finding out that I had no brakes coming out of my neighborhood at 30 mph, accidentally blew through stop sign, through the intersection, and caught at least three feet of air down the very steep hill into the adjacent neighborhood. Thank heavens I had 800 and 850 in-lb linear springs to keep me from bottoming out and wrecking all four fenders. I landed squarely, too. Definitely one of those "check your pants" experiences.

LOL - that's usually how my car projects turn out too, I try to finish everything in one shot, regardless of how long it takes. The trans mount insert for example, should have taken an hour and I'm ashamed to admit how long it took me to force the damn thing in there, even though I had read your writeup beforehand and there were basically no tools required! 8-D


OK, I just bit the bullet and tackled this project. Went to Sears Hardware and bought several things for the task:

1-1 11/16 socket 3/4 drive
1- 1/2" threaded bolt 8 inches long
4- 1/2" washers
1- 1/2" nut

Tools needed from the big red box:

21MM box wrench and 3/4" 21MM socket
18MM box wrench For brake caliper
Electric impact gun or whatever you have
T30 socket for removal of rotor
3/4" wrench and socket for using on threaded 8" bolt to extract rubber bushing

This just worked like a charm. Pulled the old one out with no problem. I took some photos but have to resize them to post. working on it now

Thanks for being a guinea pig on this method! I was thinking of doing something similar, using a 36MM deep well axle socket to pull the bushing into. I have a 7" bolt from my homemade diff bushing puller that I can use. I will likely try with my 3-jaw puller to see how well that method works, but going to do it over my vacation; off for 10+ days at the end of the year.

V for victory
12-16-12, 09:08 PM
"I have a 7" bolt from my homemade diff bushing puller that I can use"

Please provide me with the info on this set up, and the method you used to drop the Diff and pull the old bushing, as I will be doing that project starting on the 21st when Im off for 8 days.

pato
12-16-12, 11:10 PM
When I removed mine a few months ago, I did it exactly like Victory did. Except I used a 6" C-clamp. One 21mm socket to push the bushing out and 1 larger socket to catch it. It was either a 1+1/8" or 1+1/16". Worked like a charm.

NCOGNITO
12-16-12, 11:17 PM
Have you decided on a bushing that you're putting in there and have you considered adding the CS Block? Most people agree that the block is worth the $30 to prevent upward movement and prolong the life of the bushing. For the puller, I rented the tool from Creative Steel, which I HIGHLY recommend, especially if you're pulling the stock bushing, which can be a total pain in the neck according to others and presssing one in can also be difficult. The CS Tool is VERY well made and VERY heavy duty.

In Lollygagger's writeup, he uses PISSNUOFF's tool, which can be made from a piece of 2" pipe IIRC. The bottom of the CS bushing was ~ 1.75 in and the top of the sleeve was 2.25 in. While I had the tool, I collected some washers that were roughly the same size as the sleeves included with the CS Tool, since the CS bushing should come out much easier than a stock bushing. I haven't written up what I bought yet, but I can try to knock that out over the next day or so.

Here's Lollygagger's writeup, which I followed to a T: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-performance/190142-diff-differential-bushing-install-removal.html
Along with Creative Steel's instructions that come with the tool: https://www.creative-steel.com/store/index.php?l=page_view&p=installation

Dropping the diff was actually much easier than I predicted, I ran into some other "issues" and have had to redo parts of it multiple times now.

Things that will make it easier:
1) Getting the car UP in the air so it's not so claustrophobic and room for a creeper.
2) I didn't drop my exhaust, since I had a hell of time getting it back on last time and didn't want to replace the band clamps again. You CAN work around it, but it would be easier not to have to.
3) 21mm ratchet wrench is a must have for the rear bolts. You can get a short 21mm socket in there to initially loosen and for final tightening, but you'll need it to get the bolts loose and completely drop the diff if you're adding the bushing block.

AAIIIC
12-17-12, 12:13 AM
Thanks, I read this thread and apparently glazed over where people were talking about pipe diameters. Thanks!
I said 2", but honestly I don't know what size it is. It's a pipe nipple a couple/few inches long that I picked up at HD or Lowe's specifically for this sort of thing.


I will need another 8 inch threaded bolt and nut as the threads were stretched a bit and dont want to chance it when I do the other side.
Nice work, but that's not a lower control arm bushing. That's the trailing arm bushing (which happens to be what everyone else was talking about). I thought you had some new bushings from RS, so I was excited to see what you came up with. Now I'm :(.

DisposableHero
12-17-12, 03:58 AM
I don't see the lower control arm bushings on revshift's site?

AAIIIC
12-17-12, 09:02 AM
I don't see the lower control arm bushings on revshift's site?
That's because what he calls a lower control arm bushing is really a trailing arm bushing (https://www.revshift.com/shop/rear-trailing-arm-bushings-2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v.php).

V for victory
12-17-12, 10:18 AM
That's because what he calls a lower control arm bushing is really a trailing arm bushing (https://www.revshift.com/shop/rear-trailing-arm-bushings-2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v.php).

OMG, you are so right, It is the trailing arm...what was I thinking when I wrote the heading. Sorry of the false sense of new products that dont exist.

AAIIIC
12-17-12, 03:30 PM
No worries. RS is supposedly working on control arm bushings, too, so I thought maybe you had gotten an advance set of those.

V for victory
12-19-12, 12:26 PM
Have you decided on a bushing that you're putting in there and have you considered adding the CS Block? Most people agree that the block is worth the $30 to prevent upward movement and prolong the life of the bushing. For the puller, I rented the tool from Creative Steel, which I HIGHLY recommend, especially if you're pulling the stock bushing, which can be a total pain in the neck according to others and presssing one in can also be difficult. The CS Tool is VERY well made and VERY heavy duty.

In Lollygagger's writeup, he uses PISSNUOFF's tool, which can be made from a piece of 2" pipe IIRC. The bottom of the CS bushing was ~ 1.75 in and the top of the sleeve was 2.25 in. While I had the tool, I collected some washers that were roughly the same size as the sleeves included with the CS Tool, since the CS bushing should come out much easier than a stock bushing. I haven't written up what I bought yet, but I can try to knock that out over the next day or so.

Here's Lollygagger's writeup, which I followed to a T: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-performance/190142-diff-differential-bushing-install-removal.html
Along with Creative Steel's instructions that come with the tool: https://www.creative-steel.com/store/index.php?l=page_view&p=installation

Dropping the diff was actually much easier than I predicted, I ran into some other "issues" and have had to redo parts of it multiple times now.

Things that will make it easier:
1) Getting the car UP in the air so it's not so claustrophobic and room for a creeper.
2) I didn't drop my exhaust, since I had a hell of time getting it back on last time and didn't want to replace the band clamps again. You CAN work around it, but it would be easier not to have to.
3) 21mm ratchet wrench is a must have for the rear bolts. You can get a short 21mm socket in there to initially loosen and for final tightening, but you'll need it to get the bolts loose and completely drop the diff if you're adding the bushing block.

Thanks, just ordered the CS block and their Diif removal tool, both will arrive on this Saturday. Off next week with much to do, MM's, Diff bushing and finish the trailing arm bushing install. :bouncy: