: No acceleration... 2000 Deville



joecaddi
12-13-12, 12:26 PM
First post... Three times now out of nowhere I push the gas down leaving speed zone and nothing! Car will not kick down and accelerate. Just sounds like its bogging. 1st time thought is was cause I went thru car wash..next day fine. 2nd time snowed night before..so thought it got wet again. 3rd time..was completely dry! (thought something was getting wet..guess not!) Please any help would be super appreciated.

Submariner409
12-13-12, 12:49 PM
Your car has a built-in trouble code memory/scanner/reader. Many, many engine/drivetrain (P), body (B), chassis (C), and electrical systems (mostly U) and parts are monitored. Use the sticky post just above this one - "How to pull codes" - and study the proper section for your car/model/year. Get into the system and write down all codes found and whether each suffix is C or H. Now go back to the sticky and open the link with "obd2" in the address - this takes you to a Master Index which has links to definitions of all P, B, C, and U codes.

This one is a weird situation - fine one day, poor the next does not point to a clogged catalytic converter. No kick-down might be transmission shift solenoid or line pressure problems.

Too many scenarios - the diagnostic codes will shed some light .............. post it all in this thread - don't start another.

joecaddi
12-13-12, 01:34 PM
Thanks I will definitely start looking into that. If it helps any...I can shift the car down manually in order to accelerate. I've had problem's recently and I cleaned the tb and the iac. Then changed out the tps and everything seemed fine for a while until I got a code for the maf..so I changed that and was fine again until these couple mishaps...

----------

Oh yeah..the 1st night it happened it seemed like I didn't have any pressure in the radiator hose..but had heat? Next day had pressure and car was fine!

Ranger
12-13-12, 05:12 PM
First post... Three times now out of nowhere I push the gas down leaving speed zone and nothing! Car will not kick down and accelerate. Just sounds like its bogging.
Check your fuel pressure.

joecaddi
12-14-12, 10:55 PM
Far from a mechanic so please bare with me..just been trying to learn thru posts mostly from the two of you. So thanks thus far! So I pulled the codes from my car and tried to research the problem. No luck! Only 2 of the codes are current: AMP U1000 & IPM B0429. Car did it again today so I stopped at a shop & he recommended I check the plugs & boots. Changed only the plugs a few mths ago. Went to leave, put car in drive and the whole engine slammed! Thought tranny was shot! Started car few hours later & car went into drive normal and car was back to driving fine??? Completely lost!!!

Submariner409
12-15-12, 11:19 AM
The engine "slammed" into gear - is the idle speed at its correct 650 rpm or is it at ... 1,000+ ?

Open the hood. Have a trusted assistant start the car in P, foot securely on the brake. Stand next to the car on the driver's side and watch the engine - have the assistant hold the brake and shift to D. How far does the engine rock toward the firewall - any more that 3/4" indicates a broken front center motor mount. If it's broken it needs to be replaced - a shop job, given your stated mechanical abilities.

Forget the U 1000 code - voltage or data hiccup. The B 0429 is the diverter door for ventilation air to the rear seat console panel. If you didn't "clear codes", please go back and list the History codes and their definitions - there may be an intermittent clue there.

Post #3 - Large upper radiator hose pressure is not a reliable indicator of anything other than maybe a faulty coolant reservoir pressure cap. Cold, there should be little or no pressure on the system, increasing to cap pressure as the engine warms to operating temperature - 190 - 205 degrees or so. So - cold = squishy hose; hot = hard hose (sort of squeezable - not rock hard).

If you have the time and $$$, take the car to a GM dealer for a "transmission fluid exchange". using a pressure/vacuum machine they will completely exchange all the present fluid for the new (2006 and later) DEXRON-VI fluid. But, tell them about the odd shift problems.

This may come down to a valve body, 1-2 / 2-3 shift solenoid, or line pressure regulator problem. Know that no transmission work on these cars is inexpensive. Hang onto your wallet.............

Ranger
12-15-12, 12:56 PM
Went to leave, put car in drive and the whole engine slammed!
Definitely not fuel related.

I agree with Sub. Best case (cheapest) scenario is a cold start with RPM at 1200 and a bad front motor mount. Does it "slam" any less when the engine is warn and at normal idle RPM (650)?

Manic Mechanic
12-15-12, 04:32 PM
Vaughly starting to sound like a bad torque convertor or defective valve body. These are both internal transmission problems. But who can tell from here?

Advise: Find another shop that has a clue, it's not your plugs or boots. That's a whole other set of symptoms. Find a good shop (ask around) I recommend a Napa Autocare. We have to meet some standards.

Vernon

joecaddi
12-16-12, 12:00 PM
Checked the motor mount theory..doesn't seem broke. The car is going into all gears just fine & smooth now. I wanna say my car idles around 700-750rpm. That was the only time that ever occurred. When I push the gas to floor its as if something is telling the car that its gaining normal speed (if that makes any sense), cause the car will still shift through all the gears as if I was going 55mph, but in reality I'm only goin 35mph! The whole time bogging as if something was plugged up. Again, fine one second..doing it the next! Has only occurred 5 times so far..each time car sits for a few hours or overnight and when I get in to check it out everything is fine???

----------

Is that "transmission fluid exchange" the same as a "flush" cause I've heard nothing but horror stories about "flushing" your transmission. Please explain a little more if you may. Any idea on the cost to do the exchange?

Submariner409
12-16-12, 12:00 PM
Long shot here - check the ground connector for the transmission wiring harness - a block bolted to the engine down low near where the wiring pigtail exits the transmission case. Actually remove the multiple wire collector box (some models have them) and check the internal connections as well as the bolt ground point.

joecaddi
12-16-12, 12:13 PM
Ok so here are all of my codes: (amp b1004 h, u1000 c, u1128 h, u1016 h) (ddm u1000 h, u1065 h) (dim p1531 h, u1300 h, u1301 h) (IPC b1004 h, b1327 h, b1438 h) (IPM b0429 h, b1004 h) (LRD u1301 h, u1000 h, u1065 h) (PCM p1122 h, u1065 h) (PDM u1000 h, u1065 h) (RCC b1009 h) (RIM c0658 h, u1000 h, u1065 h) (RDD u1000 h, u1065 h).... Well that is all that appeared! Hope that someone can make some sense of these.... Thanks for all the help and advice!

Ranger
12-16-12, 12:57 PM
Codes are useless without their definitions. No one has them memorized.


When I push the gas to floor its as if something is telling the car that its gaining normal speed (if that makes any sense), cause the car will still shift through all the gears as if I was going 55mph, but in reality I'm only goin 35mph! The whole time bogging as if something was plugged up.
Have you checked or had the CAT checked to rule out a clogged CAT?

joecaddi
12-16-12, 01:44 PM
Where do I get the definitions from? I haven't ruled out the catalytic converter yet but will do so asap if that is something I should check out...

Submariner409
12-16-12, 03:30 PM
Where do I get the definitions from? I haven't ruled out the catalytic converter yet but will do so asap if that is something I should check out...

From the link in the same "How to pull codes" sticky - the link with "obd2" in the address.

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2.html

joecaddi
12-19-12, 01:35 AM
Having trouble trying to find code definitions cause I really don't have a clue what Im looking at!!! : ( ***Question... If the car bogs while pushing on the gas in park does that mean it might not be the transmission?

Submariner409
12-19-12, 10:40 AM
^^^ NO. If the drivetrain is in P there is no load on the engine and the transmission does not enter the picture - BUT the PCM has an rpm limiter which kicks in when the stick is in P or N - you cannot rev the engine over about 4,000 rpm in those cases.

Codes:

P = Powertrain - P 1122 H = Throttle position sensor circuit low voltage (History)

B = Body - B 0429 H = Temperature control #3 rear circuit range/performance (History)

C = Chassis - C 0658 H = Level control compressor circuit high (History)

U = Voltage and Serial bus Data - U 1000 H = Class 2 communication fault (History)

Almost every code you have is History and the only Current code you have is probably a transient hiccup - get into the sequence again and "Clear Codes" at the end of the readout, leave the system alone for a month and then see what has come up. Don't get into the habit of aimlessly pulling codes - you'll go mad because codes come and go like clouds unless the fault stays Current. If a code sets due to a hiccup, it stays C for 3 start-run cycles during which the fault does not appear; then it goes to H where it stays for 30 or so start-run cycles during which the fault does not appear, then it self-clears from memory.

Go back to the link and use the blue code legend in the Master Index.

joecaddi
12-19-12, 12:48 PM
So with the car bogging in park I should steer away from the transmission side of things and start looking at other circumstances? Thanks for your help Sub on informing me what these codes are and I will go in and reset them today.

Ranger
12-19-12, 11:13 PM
So with the car bogging in park I should steer away from the transmission side of things and start looking at other circumstances?
Yes.

joecaddi
12-20-12, 05:42 PM
Last nite finally had the check engine lite come on when the car started bogging. Stopped at Autozone to see what code popped and the damn lady couldn't read the code and somehow reset it, so I couldn't even run down to O'riely's. Checked it thru the car and the only "new" code was the PCM P0122. (TPS/Switch A circuit low input) About a month ago I had problems with the car surging and stalling so I bought a new TPS (from Autozone) and installed it myself. The old one was corroded... Well the person at AZ told me to apply electrical gel or lube around the ring before installing. So I did! Could this be causing these problems??? Is it possible that I didn't do something right while putting it in? I just lined it up and screwed it down... Ever since then I started having these other problems.The codes for the maf..I ended up taking one off a different Deville and sprayed it down with electrical cleaner..let it dry over nite and put it in. Is it possible I got a faulty TPS? Or is it possible the used maf is causing such bogging problems? Symptoms for the TPS include: rough or low idle (which I have), stalling, surging, no/little acceleration (which I really have!)... Seems like car gets hot and then the bogging acceleration problem starts. Car gets cold and then there is no issue!!! Please help! Christmas has put a damper on my funds so I haven't been able to get the cc checked to see if its plugged or not. Any idea on price to get it checked? Thanks to all for your input and suggestions!

Ranger
12-20-12, 09:58 PM
Is it possible that I didn't do something right while putting it in?
If I remember correctly, there is an adjustment required using a DVM after installation.


Is it possible I got a faulty TPS?
If it is an AutoZone Don'tLast part it is entirely possible.

joecaddi
01-08-13, 02:32 AM
UPDATE...Finally decided to pull off the "autozone" throttle position sensor and take it back for a new one. After arguing that their part was junk they finally gave me a replacement. I put the new one on and... wa~la! The car hasn't done it since! Its been about 5 days now and seems to be running great. Besides the fact that I can smell antifreeze now and can't yet find where its coming from...

Ranger
01-08-13, 11:38 AM
Suspicions confirmed.