: HID/anti flicker ???



shimy86
12-07-12, 11:09 AM
Been doing lots of reading and job seems pretty straight forward. The bigest PIA would be removing the front facia. But there seems to be mixed reports as to if the anti-flicker componant is required. I dont want to have to take front off twice to add it later. Can someone whos done it chime in with answers?? Part numbers would be GREAT!!! Thanks!

bwclemons
12-07-12, 05:53 PM
I've done many installs including the one that is in the DIY's here. Yes, you definitely need the anti flicker, canbus or whatever you want to call it. Do not use a seperate harness. They do not work on these cars. Get the VOLT HID kit, H10 is the lamp and the color would be 4300k which is normal or 6000k which is more blue and get the canbus fix .You can get it all from KBcarstuff.com.

SrxNamja
12-09-12, 12:33 PM
bwclemons, are the can-bus and code eliminators the same thing? Also I'm seeing ballasts that have the canbus built in which would mean less wires but whats the verdict on the built in ones?

bwclemons
12-09-12, 01:54 PM
The code eliminators are the same thing. I don't believe the built in canbus ballasts are strong enough for this application. "Inspectorudy" did not have luck with his and ended up adding the error code eliminators that were separate from the ballasts. His were the Phillips kits. The bulbs are the items most likely to burn out not the ballasts but a good bulb should last for years before having to be replaced. My car has over 50,000 mi and I have not had a single problem. There are a bunch of good kits out there but stay away from the ones sold by ddmtuning, their bulbs have been failing.

SrxNamja
12-09-12, 06:44 PM
The code eliminators are the same thing. I don't believe the built in canbus ballasts are strong enough for this application. "Inspectorudy" did not have luck with his and ended up adding the error code eliminators that were separate from the ballasts. His were the Phillips kits. The bulbs are the items most likely to burn out not the ballasts but a good bulb should last for years before having to be replaced. My car has over 50,000 mi and I have not had a single problem. There are a bunch of good kits out there but stay away from the ones sold by ddmtuning, their bulbs have been failing.

Thanks! Ill probably end up ordering the volt kit from kb auto. I might just leave the fogs alone but add the drl leds that the captain added. Just need to figure out how to wire it so the fogs are separate from the leds when turning them on. If I decide to do this myself would the car need to be jacked up or is bumper removal fine without lifting? I was going to have this local guy do it but I really don't think they know what they are doing and keep telling me that it will burn the housing. doesn't seem to make any sense to me as most the problems Ive seen with melted housing has been a bad install or cheap kit.

I might just get the 6000k kit since i think they might match the drl leds better but we'll see. Maybe the captain can chime in to.

inspectorudy
12-10-12, 01:29 AM
I got my Phillips kit from KB and their tech said that I did not need any other items for their kit to work properly. He was wrong and as I talked to him it was clear that he was not familiar with how the SRX DRL worked. He sold me the ballast/bulbs kit and I installed it without taking the front facia off. Then I noticed that some times only one DRL would be on and then both would be on. I had to order the code eliminators from them for another $30. You need the "Optional" code eliminators and not the harness as beclemons said. I got the 6000K lights and like the blue hue they radiate. All of the side reflective signs at night are bluish instead of white as I pass them. If you do not want to take the facia off you do have to remove the fuse box, or at least unscrew it and push it out of the way. You do not disconnect any wires though. On the passenger's side you have to remove three screws in the bottom of the air box to remove it to get at the rear of the head light housing. All of the wiring is plug and play with NO cutting. They definitely make a big difference at night and illuminate much more of the side of the road as well as penetrating further.

SrxNamja
12-10-12, 11:20 AM
I got my Phillips kit from KB and their tech said that I did not need any other items for their kit to work properly. He was wrong and as I talked to him it was clear that he was not familiar with how the SRX DRL worked. He sold me the ballast/bulbs kit and I installed it without taking the front facia off. Then I noticed that some times only one DRL would be on and then both would be on. I had to order the code eliminators from them for another $30. You need the "Optional" code eliminators and not the harness as beclemons said. I got the 6000K lights and like the blue hue they radiate. All of the side reflective signs at night are bluish instead of white as I pass them. If you do not want to take the facia off you do have to remove the fuse box, or at least unscrew it and push it out of the way. You do not disconnect any wires though. On the passenger's side you have to remove three screws in the bottom of the air box to remove it to get at the rear of the head light housing. All of the wiring is plug and play with NO cutting. They definitely make a big difference at night and illuminate much more of the side of the road as well as penetrating further.

Thanks! Id rather not remove the facia if i dont have to but it seems rather difficult to remove the items on the driver and passenger side. So you as well just installed the ballast in side the housing without drilling a hole in the housing?

bwclemons
12-10-12, 01:25 PM
Inspectorudy drilled a hole in the circular cover that is the access cover to the bulb. You can stuff all of the items into the housings with a little maneuvering so you don't need to drill any holes. You can get access from the top as inspectorudy mentioned. It's up to you, either remove the facia or come in from the top. If you are going to do the fogs at the same time then removing the facia makes sense.