: Service Stability Light 2002 Escalade



Snowskate
12-03-12, 04:42 PM
Hey all,

I've been doing a ton of research on this light being on in my 02 escalade. I've searched these forums and found multiple threads but no 100% sure solution. The codes that shoot on are DTC C0285, DTC C0286. The vehicle drives fine without any issues. No noises, vibrations, lack of power or anything of that matter.

The ABS light is not on. :thumbsup:
After going 8 mph, the ABS does a system check which cycles twice then kicks on the light. :tisk:
I checked the ground's that are on the frame, they seem good. :thumbsup:
I know where the unit is an understand it sucks to replace and the bolts may break. :want:

I removed the fuse for the ABS system then put it back in and drove the vehicle. The light never came on, until I intentionally made the ABS kick on in order to prompt the light to show up, and it did. After that, the light would shoot on at the 8 mph mark. I meant to try doing this again to see if it was true but I haven't gotten around to it yet.

The possible solutions I found were to replace:
Wheel speed sensor
EBCM (Most common answer)
BPMV
Medium Pressure Accumulator (Already replaced, did not fix)
Steering wheel sensor (Or something under the dash that required taking the steering column out)

Has ANYONE heard more information on this? I got a quote of $1,000 for the EBCM :tisk:, $2000-$3000 for the dealership to fix :alchi: or saw people who fix units for around $300-$500 :confused:? One member from here did send his out twice but it did not work and ended up bypassing the unit and knocking out the ABS light under the dash :stirpot:

Please let me know of any information you may have regarding this. :bigroll:

the cadillac man
12-03-12, 08:40 PM
Hey all,

I've been doing a ton of research on this light being on in my 02 escalade. I've searched these forums and found multiple threads but no 100% sure solution. The codes that shoot on are DTC C0285, DTC C0286. The vehicle drives fine without any issues. No noises, vibrations, lack of power or anything of that matter.

The ABS light is not on. :thumbsup:
After going 8 mph, the ABS does a system check which cycles twice then kicks on the light. :tisk:
I checked the ground's that are on the frame, they seem good. :thumbsup:
I know where the unit is an understand it sucks to replace and the bolts may break. :want:

I removed the fuse for the ABS system then put it back in and drove the vehicle. The light never came on, until I intentionally made the ABS kick on in order to prompt the light to show up, and it did. After that, the light would shoot on at the 8 mph mark. I meant to try doing this again to see if it was true but I haven't gotten around to it yet.

The possible solutions I found were to replace:
Wheel speed sensor
EBCM (Most common answer)
BPMV
Medium Pressure Accumulator (Already replaced, did not fix)
Steering wheel sensor (Or something under the dash that required taking the steering column out)

Has ANYONE heard more information on this? I got a quote of $1,000 for the EBCM :tisk:, $2000-$3000 for the dealership to fix :alchi: or saw people who fix units for around $300-$500 :confused:? One member from here did send his out twice but it did not work and ended up bypassing the unit and knocking out the ABS light under the dash :stirpot:

Please let me know of any information you may have regarding this. :bigroll:

I know you may hate to hear this but the module will need to be replaced

As one code relates the pressure accumulator switch

The other code means abs indicator lamp circuit shorted to B+

Have you tried to clear the codes to see if they come back?

amtrucker22
12-03-12, 09:47 PM
I am in the midst of doing this now. I sent mine off to ATE to have it repaired. It should be sent back to me this week. The T20 bolts were a pain to get to because I did not have the right tool. I am confident that I could get it in or out now in 10 minutes or so using this tool I bought on Amazon --> LINK (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XYOUS6/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00)

I read pretty much the same threads as you. I replaced my hubs because I knew they needed to be replaced soon anyways (I bought the Timken hubs on Amazon at 1/2 the cost of Autozone --> LINK (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EGT3I4/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00) )

The link for ATE's repair on ebay is here --> LINK (http://www.ebay.com/itm/380388732997?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)
I printed off the UPS label they sent me and sent it out to them. The tech called me the day after they recieved the module and asked me a few questions. He then said the damage to the module was evident and that he would get it repaired and sent back out to me shortly. He indicated that if I have any other problems to give him a call and he would walk me through some further troubleshooting.

I did not have the exact same symptoms as you, and I do not know if this repair service will work or not, but thought I would put in my .02 worth.

Snowskate
12-03-12, 10:13 PM
I know you may hate to hear this but the module will need to be replaced

As one code relates the pressure accumulator switch

The other code means abs indicator lamp circuit shorted to B+

Have you tried to clear the codes to see if they come back?

The second code is what was read and I was confused as to what that exactly meant. The person who I had read the codes did clear them, however I did not have it read a second time as it seemed like it was a hastle to catch this guy to read the codes for us unfortunately.

I almost made the conclusion that the EBCM would have to be replaced, but I did not know for sure if that was the exact problem as all I did was a ton of research on the internet.


I am in the midst of doing this now. I sent mine off to ATE to have it repaired. It should be sent back to me this week. The T20 bolts were a pain to get to because I did not have the right tool. I am confident that I could get it in or out now in 10 minutes or so using this tool I bought on Amazon --> LINK (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XYOUS6/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00)

I read pretty much the same threads as you. I replaced my hubs because I knew they needed to be replaced soon anyways (I bought the Timken hubs on Amazon at 1/2 the cost of Autozone --> LINK (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EGT3I4/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00) )

The link for ATE's repair on ebay is here --> LINK (http://www.ebay.com/itm/380388732997?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)
I printed off the UPS label they sent me and sent it out to them. The tech called me the day after they recieved the module and asked me a few questions. He then said the damage to the module was evident and that he would get it repaired and sent back out to me shortly. He indicated that if I have any other problems to give him a call and he would walk me through some further troubleshooting.

I did not have the exact same symptoms as you, and I do not know if this repair service will work or not, but thought I would put in my .02 worth.

amtrucker, I'm very glad you came in on this and thank you very much for all of your information you took the time to provide in your post. This is very interesting as I know exactly what you're talking about. I wonder if your light will go out with the fixing of your EBCM from ATE. If I remember correctly, do they guarentee your money back (minus the shipping) if it does not work??

What are your symptoms opposed to what I'm experiencing? Maybe I should give them a call to see if they can troubleshoot mine?

If you wouldn't mind, PLEASE let me know when you get it back and re-installed if it worked? I would be very interested to know.

amtrucker22
12-04-12, 12:01 AM
They do guarantee their repair so I figured I didn't have anything to lose. They even paid for shipping both ways.

The symptoms that we are having is ABS light on right away, SSS light on, and brake light on the dash is on. I took it to the dealership and they did not tell me what the code was, but they did tell me that it was the EBCM.

I will definitely post up once I get the results back.

Snowskate
12-04-12, 08:47 AM
Interesting - I decided that I'm going to give ATE a call today if I get a chance to ask about the issue I'm having. They specified two specific part numbers on there however I don't know where to find those part numbers on the EBCM (probably on the top where you can't see?)

Also meant to ask, how bad were your T20 bolts to get out? Rusty? It almost seems that the back two bolts are very hard to get to but I'll have to give it a shot and find out. I believe I have access to the correct tools to get this out.

amtrucker22
12-04-12, 10:45 AM
I asked the same question about the part number. I could not find any part number that even came close to matching. This was their reply:


There are no OEM identifiable part number on
The part, we use part numbers that are associated
With the manufactured part.
If your part matches our image ,then use this
Buy it now to purchase our rebuild .
Thank You
ASI

The T20 bolts were not rusty on my lade. Just a matter of finding the right angle. The biggest problem was I was using a small rachette with a 1/4 socket with the T20 bit in it. That made it too high. Took me roughly 2 hours to get 4 bolts out. With the new tool I don't think it will come even close to 1/2 that time.

I got shipping information on it today. Should be back to the house on Wednesday. I am going to try and install it before the weekend but that may not happen :(

----------

BTW... My lade has always been a southern car, so rust was at a minimum.

Snowskate
12-04-12, 11:04 AM
Ahh, mine has been raised in New England, so this could be a fun time getting these bolts out. I was thinking about using a 1/4 ratchet with the T20 socket but I haven't gave it a shot yet - it was a thought though haha.

I may just buy that tool you suggested seeing as its so cheap. Did you use an extension with that tool or just what is shown in the picture is what you used?

Sorry for all the questions btw, trying to see what I'm getting myself into here :worship:

amtrucker22
12-04-12, 01:28 PM
I have not used the tool yet but it is what I bought for the re-install. I will let you know how well it works after Wednesday :)

Where my ratchet wrench wouldn't fit I used just an regular 1/4 closed in wrench. It was slow going for sure.

Snowskate
12-04-12, 01:53 PM
Nice, hope it goes well and the problem is fixed. Good luck!

amtrucker22
12-05-12, 11:36 PM
Got the module back today. It was shrink wrapped and had a do not break this seal tape on the module. Very professionally done!

Got it back in the lade tonight and all the lights are gone! I am very satisfied. The whole ordeal cost me:

300 - 2 new hubs
100 - Dealer to read the codes
225 - Module repair

625 - Total

I needed the replace the hubs anyway, so I thought I would start with them. After that did not fix the problem I knew I had to get the codes read.

Took a total of 40 minutes to get the module back in. I used a combination of the tool I bought to get the front 2 screws in, and a socket wrench with 1/4 inch socket on the rear 2 screws.

the cadillac man
12-06-12, 12:48 AM
Got the module back today. It was shrink wrapped and had a do not break this seal tape on the module. Very professionally done!

Got it back in the lade tonight and all the lights are gone! I am very satisfied. The whole ordeal cost me:

300 - 2 new hubs
100 - Dealer to read the codes
225 - Module repair

625 - Total

I needed the replace the hubs anyway, so I thought I would start with them. After that did not fix the problem I knew I had to get the codes read.

Took a total of 40 minutes to get the module back in. I used a combination of the tool I bought to get the front 2 screws in, and a socket wrench with 1/4 inch socket on the rear 2 screws.

Amtrucker22 I know how you feel I did this with my rear air system

I thought I just needed a actuator when I needed that and a module didn't find out till I got the codes pulled so I started getting the codes pulled before I do anything trust me you will thank me in the long run,

but it is great news that you got your truck fixed glad to help

Snowskate
12-06-12, 01:51 PM
Got the module back today. It was shrink wrapped and had a do not break this seal tape on the module. Very professionally done!

Got it back in the lade tonight and all the lights are gone! I am very satisfied. The whole ordeal cost me:

300 - 2 new hubs
100 - Dealer to read the codes
225 - Module repair

625 - Total

I needed the replace the hubs anyway, so I thought I would start with them. After that did not fix the problem I knew I had to get the codes read.

Took a total of 40 minutes to get the module back in. I used a combination of the tool I bought to get the front 2 screws in, and a socket wrench with 1/4 inch socket on the rear 2 screws.

That's great news, glad everything worked out for you. I've dragged my feet on calling ATE so far - I really should call them. 225 for the module repair? Thought it was $289 for the repair on ebay, unless they changed the price?

40 minutes for 4 bolts, harsh, still. Why did they place this unit in the worst place possible? If I decide to do this, it will be a miracle in itself if I can get those 4 bolts out.

amtrucker22
12-06-12, 10:42 PM
I was pretty happy with 40 minutes. But truth be told that included disconnecting the battery, jacking up the car and putting it back down. So really not too bad.

I got it when they had the repair on sale. I wonder if you call them and talk with them maybe they will offer you the discounted price.

texdlyght
12-29-12, 03:16 PM
Ok guys this may seem like a dumb question but were either of you driving your escalade while the EBCM was off of the vehicle? I have a similar problem with the SSS light on my 02 escalade but not the abs or brake lights. I have purchased the Steering wheel sensor but I hear its a pain to install, Im wondering if the EBCM could be my ONLY REAL problem. Any suggestions/troubleshooting/ideas?