: Can I/Should I wax my new 2013 SRX before the Winter?



NJRonbo
12-02-12, 07:15 AM
Just took my delivery of a 2013 SRX.

Going to have two very nice days ahead of me.

Is it too early to put a coat of wax on the car knowing that the winter is ahead?

Lencarguy
12-02-12, 08:30 AM
It's never too early. I waxed my 2012 SRX about 2 weeks after picking it up last year. I wax it quarterly and it keeps the finish showroom new. The days of letting the new paint cure before waxing are long over.

Marc NY
12-02-12, 09:01 AM
It's never too early. I waxed my 2012 SRX about 2 weeks after picking it up last year. I wax it quarterly and it keeps the finish showroom new. The days of letting the new paint cure before waxing are long over.That is true! Some dealers will try to sell you paint protection/ sealant as another added cost option. Personally, I wouldn't take that option myself.

Likely
12-02-12, 05:36 PM
Wax it anytime. The paint ia already cured. Keep it looking real good!!!! The more wax, the better....I waxed mine the day i took delivery. Looks like new, after more than 2 years. I use C-magic wax and detailer. Like it alot, easy on, easy off....

NJRonbo
12-02-12, 05:42 PM
I use Collinite. It's heavy-duty industrial wax meant for marine use, but car buyers have been getting remarkable results with it, and it can last for up to a year. Just applied a thin coat to my vehicle today. Thinking of applying another coat tomorrow.

slowdriver
12-02-12, 05:58 PM
http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/ there is so many products out there.

300:29:1
12-02-12, 11:13 PM
That is true! Some dealers will try to sell you paint protection/ sealant as another added cost option. Personally, I wouldn't take that option myself.

Why Marc? I was under the impression that the paint protection is a teflon coating that is effective in protecting the paint.

Marc NY
12-03-12, 07:10 AM
Why Marc? I was under the impression that the paint protection is a teflon coating that is effective in protecting the paint.Perhaps it is... but IMO I personally do not believe you really need to spend the extra money on protecting today's high quality clear coat factory paints.

hambone8
12-03-12, 01:11 PM
I would consider putting a quality sealant on it before wax. Full meal deal... Hand wash dry, clay to remore any residue stuck in the clear coat during shipment, and a long lasting sealant. I had this done for 110.00 the week of delivery. Mequires synthetic sealant 2.0 was used. Supposedly up to 9 months protection. Granted it doesn't have the deep gloss of carnuaba wax, but it still looks good. And, you can wax on top of the sealant.

Huey Driver
12-03-12, 01:59 PM
300,
To throw in my .02, regarding your question to Marc about the paint protection. It is my opinion, and ONLY opinion, not necessarily fact, that with those dealer options, about 10% of what you are paying is for the product, the rest is to buy insurance.
They tried to sell me that stuff.... "Just buy this $3,000 option and we'll guarantee against scratches or we will repair it for free". Nothing can protect against that. Basically, whats out there is out there. Nothing the dealer can do is any really better than what you can DIY. They take a healthy profit, then buy some insurance that will pay the repairs if the 'protection' ever fails...
At least, thats my opinion of it...
I use the Zaino system, and follow Hambone's plan. I clayed and sealed when new, and really didnt get around to doing it again until a year later. Some I know do the clay/seal twice a year, but once seems (so far) to be adequate. And with the clay/polish, the paint is so smooth, it feels like satin...

300:29:1
12-03-12, 03:23 PM
300,
To throw in my .02, regarding your question to Marc about the paint protection. It is my opinion, and ONLY opinion, not necessarily fact, that with those dealer options, about 10% of what you are paying is for the product, the rest is to buy insurance.
They tried to sell me that stuff.... "Just buy this $3,000 option and we'll guarantee against scratches or we will repair it for free". Nothing can protect against that. Basically, whats out there is out there. Nothing the dealer can do is any really better than what you can DIY. They take a healthy profit, then buy some insurance that will pay the repairs if the 'protection' ever fails...
At least, thats my opinion of it...
I use the Zaino system, and follow Hambone's plan. I clayed and sealed when new, and really didnt get around to doing it again until a year later. Some I know do the clay/seal twice a year, but once seems (so far) to be adequate. And with the clay/polish, the paint is so smooth, it feels like satin...
I feel that the stuff they apply is indeed mostly profit in the application. I also feel that the the teflon coating they apply offers a good degree of protection and makes washing easier. Some of us just don't have the time and patience to follow the procedure listed above. I can do wax, but the other stuff isn't going to happen. I paid $699 for the paint and fabric protection. I'm ok with that price. I usually skip these things but didn't this time.

tmw
12-07-12, 02:04 AM
Why Marc? I was under the impression that the paint protection is a teflon coating that is effective in protecting the paint.

It's not Teflon, but some other polymer. Check out autogeek.net, for tons of info, and various products and forums. It IS the same stuff if not better that dealers or others will package under some made up name for $400-$600. Do it yourself for $40 or find a local detailed and get a sealant 1 or 2x a year for a third the cost.

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I would consider putting a quality sealant on it before wax. Full meal deal... Hand wash dry, clay to remore any residue stuck in the clear coat during shipment, and a long lasting sealant. I had this done for 110.00 the week of delivery. Mequires synthetic sealant 2.0 was used. Supposedly up to 9 months protection. Granted it doesn't have the deep gloss of carnuaba wax, but it still looks good. And, you can wax on top of the sealant.


Hmm same stuff and prices I had done, it isn't J.B-it up near zionsville is it ?

rsorrell
12-07-12, 05:16 PM
I just picked mine up and gave it a good wash and waxing.

kiboater
12-07-12, 06:11 PM
"Application of aftermarket clearcoat sealant/wax materials is not recommended. If painted surfaces are damaged, see your dealer to have the damage assessed and repaired. Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage the vehicle's finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter.
Occasional hand waxing or mild polishing should be done to remove residue from the paint finish. See your dealer for approved cleaning products. Do not apply waxes or polishes to uncoated plastic, vinyl, rubber, decals, simulated wood, or flat paint as damage can occur. Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may damage it. Use only non-abrasive waxes and polishes that are made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish on the vehicle.To keep the paint finish looking new,keep the vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible."

This quote is from the 2013 SRX owners manual. It is not exactly a ringing endorsement of waxing your new car. Years ago before modern clear coats, keeping a good coat of wax on your car was important. So was changing the oil every 3000 miles and changing the points and condenser and plugs every 12,000 miles. Don't forget to repack the wheel bearings and service the transmission at 24,000. Those good old days are gone.

Today's cars have a superior clear coat over the paint and weather extremely well. I just traded in a 2006 Buick Lucerne on my 2013 SRX. The finish was as good as the day I picked it up. People would comment on how I maintained the finish. The car was washed often. If I waxed this car every 6 months then I could tell you that this is why it looked so good. But I never waxed it

I know some of you have always waxed your cars and there are a lot of companies selling wax. I religiously wax the gel coat on my boat because it protects the surface, but new cars don't need wax. I know a lot of people will not agree but why would GM put this in the manual if waxing was helpful? If you enjoy waxing your car then it might be good for you, but the car will not know the difference.

hambone8
12-09-12, 04:00 PM
It's not Teflon, but some other polymer. Check out autogeek.net, for tons of info, and various products and forums. It IS the same stuff if not better that dealers or others will package under some made up name for $400-$600. Do it yourself for $40 or find a local detailed and get a sealant 1 or 2x a year for a third the cost.

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Hmm same stuff and prices I had done, it isn't J.B-it up near zionsville is it ?

yes sir, that is it. My buddy used to run a mobile detailing service, but regretfully due to lack of business he shut it down a year ago or so. I think it was called Driven. Anyway, I was very happy with Jimmy Buffits work. Only complaint I was told they had wifi in their waiting room, but it was down the day I went. I almost offered to take a look at it so I wouldnt have to rely on LTE service for an hour LOL. Oh yeah, they did forget to apply sealant to the polished aluminum wheels. I asked after they worked on it and Ric mentioned they would do it the next time I came in. I plan in coming in for a wash at some point. Not a big deal since they did apply some wax and from my understanding they are already factory sealed, but I just wanted an extra coat of protection before the salt hits the roads.