11-19-12, 12:00 PM
As you may remember I was having trouble with sensor b2s1 0151, I changed it then it was ok for about 4-6 days then it shows 0154. Both have the same wording on explaination-probable cause, which was oxygen sensor defective/fuel system running lean or rich, check other codes first, which indicated, engine misfire and/or fuel pressure high or low or the pressure regulator. There is definitely a intermediate misfire in the range of idle 750 to2k then its 2-3 quick misses then smo-ooth running,I can not really say it's' better' after the engine warms but the misfires are less (noticeable/powerfull?)What do you guys think it may be?
Also, I used my owners manual and alldata to learn the 'codes downloading sequences' but could not find the path, would someone send me the sticky number for this? I'm trying to learn about my eldo and it's N* ability to self diagnose.
Is there an address where I can enter the vin to tell what accesories came with this car when it was built? Someone has already taken the one on the trunk wall. I found out the moon roof is aftermarket while trying to buy a replacement seal,..parts guy said the vin didn't show a factory mroof..thank you everyone...Ed
Is there an address where I can enter the vin to tell what accesories came with this car when it was built?
Also, I used my owners manual and alldata to learn the 'codes downloading sequences' but could not find the path, would someone send me the sticky number for this?
Just click on the DTC Sticky at the top of the forum.
11-21-12, 12:49 PM
Ranger, Thanks for the reply. I went to comp nine but the demo would not perform. Maybe it was my computer but Norton started shooting out all kinds of notifications 17 in all , I'm not crying foul I thought that you may be interested.
Do you have any ideas on the misfire or why there are two different codes for the same sensor? If the new one went bad I need to return it promptly. Do I need to seek a professional with an engine scanner? (GM garage--gasp!) I'm still seeing a therapist from the last GM visit ha ha doh!
To everyone: please chime in, even if you're not sure, ideas, solutions, past issues of the same nature? Also the misfire is more prevelant than I first mentioned , it did not get worse it's that I did not realize it was that bad. Thanks Ed
11-21-12, 01:21 PM
I just did a www.compnine.com (http://www.compnine.com) download on my car's VIN - worked fine here. Instant info readout.
Yes, go up to the sticky post "How to pull codes" and study the process for your car year, model, HVAC button arrangement. When you get any set codes go back to the sticky to open the link with "obd2" in the address - this takes you to a Master Index of all P,B,C, and U codes. Decipher it al, write it down and post it here.
An O2 sensor, in and of itself, will not cause a misfire. That's plugs, coils, ICM, or wires. Poor combustion and/or fuel delivery will set O2 sensor codes in some instances. The 0151/0154 looks like a wiring or connector problem.
As you may remember I was having trouble with sensor b2s1 0151, I changed it then it was ok for about 4-6 days then it shows 0154. Both have the same wording on explaination-probable cause, which was oxygen sensor defective/fuel system running lean or rich
Actually, the code definitions are different Ed.
P0151 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Low Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0154 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 2 Sensor 1
Someone will correct me if I am wrong, but I believe P0151 points to a wiring or voltage problem, while P0154 points to a lazy sensor. Where these OEM sensors? How's your battery voltage? These cars DO NOT like low voltage.
You say there is a misfire? How old are the plugs and wires? When was the TB last cleaned?
11-21-12, 05:56 PM
The plugs have about 11k on them, I dont recall the # but GM dealer service center put them in.TB was cleaned last week (how can it get so dirty in 8 months with just air going through it?) battery sets at 12.5/runs between 13.5 to 14.4, the sensor was from Rock. I unpluged the sensor last week and checked the pins and checked continuity through the plugins, should I unscrew it and sand the pipe bung? Engine seems to smooth out about 65mph, could the auto timing be restricted at some point (a matter of prefference I use QT/91 sometimes shell). I dont know about the plug wires except I have always handled them with care althought a paid by the hour person was in that position last. I'm going to put the old intake temp sensor back in,it seems to be worse after the new one..Thanks everyone, thumbs up Ranger
how can it get so dirty in 8 months with just air going through it?
Ahh, but it's not "just air". Remember, PCV and EGR gases are routed into the intake manifold and ingested. When you shut down, those gases condense in the manifold and on the manifold side of the throttle plate and TB bore. Want to scare yourself? Remove the intake duct and hold the throttle plate wide open. Peek inside with a flashlight. It's disgusting, but harmless.
I unpluged the sensor last week and checked the pins and checked continuity through the plugins, should I unscrew it and sand the pipe bung?
I dont know about the plug wires except I have always handled them with care
The simple fact of moving old wires around is enough to cause a misfire. My '97 developed a misfire after having the fuel rail recall done (wires had to be moved). After much screwing around, it turned out to be the wires. http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/northstar-performance-technical-discussion/25119-stutter-engine-trans.html
11-23-12, 12:05 PM
Thanks Ranger, Do you think the bosch with kevalar is worth the $13 extra ($62) or the autozone Duralast at $49 ? Rock has some that are at the mid $20,s to low $40's, their bosch is the same as AZ without shipping costs. Do you think rocks cheaper ones are just as effective? I don't have any extra money however I like to buy quality when it matters, I'm still preturbed about the O2 I bought from them. It may be good and just effected by the misfire
11-23-12, 02:55 PM
None of the above. Use an original AC Delco plug wire set. It's excellent Packard or DELPHI wire and all the boots fit correctly.
Use the spark plug wire - coil diagram in my albums for proper hookup. Click the Community tab, albums. The red Seville.
I would not touch any AutoZone Don'tLast parts. :tisk:
11-24-12, 03:16 PM
Ranger,Submariner, thanks for the reply. Sub I followed your map but all I found was 2 albums and only one photo showed boots, I would like to view what you were trying to show me.. AC Delco parts with packard/Delphi wires, first where is the best (meaning cheapest)place to buy AC/Delco parts?
If you guys don't mind would you please go to Rockauto '99 eldorado ignition, and check out #7827 united ignitions genuine packard/ delphi wires(same page lower) and look atACDelco #9748Q wires.please? the AC indicates kevalar, and tell me your thoughts about the differences . I do value your opinion. Rock will need another $7 to ship. I will by local if the price is comprable. I want new wires even if that isn't N* total problem. You guys here at the forum are great at being a referance.
The cheapest place to buy A/C Delco parts (from my experience) is either Rockauto or Amazon. Personally, I'd stick with the A/C Delco 9748Q or the 748Q. We've discussed the difference before and if my memory serves me correctly (that is questionable) the only difference is one is custom fit for length (though they both "say" that in the info button).
11-26-12, 12:51 PM
I called rockauto because I could not compare the two sets online. The only visable difference was the $25 price. They said 748 was a generic AC and 9748 was original and the probable difference is the legnths,as you said. I looked at the path the wires would follow and concluded if the wires were too long they would rest down by the heater core.Am I being too much of a cheap butt and need to buy the $88 set? The$63 set seems to be the favorite..maybe all of them are seville owners and some issues are not a problem (like space) plus the term generic makes me raise an eyebrow..
by the way dealership ( KC area) wants $199!geezz! I guess the 'show me' is showing through...although I have always questioned the authority in charge but that builds character 'right?' and has helped me to know when my BS intake filter is full,, ha ha!!
Thanks for ALL your advice ...no bs I mean it...
that last line is for everyone here, thx...Ed
Whatever wire set you decide on, DO NOT let the rear bank wires rest on or too near the blower motor.
11-28-12, 03:52 PM
thanks Ranger, I ordered the 9748Q from amazon. It is amazing the price differences at different websites. I now have another source.
Yup. I now always check Amazon after I get my best price. They frequently beat it.
11-29-12, 12:13 PM
Ranger , thanks for the help.
Actually I think I jumped the gun by not looking at the748q before ordering. It is made with copper center wire and the one I bought9748q is made of wire wound stainless steel alloy. Did I buy the 'good' version instead of the 'best'? Is this even an issue? Stress is not good, I can sent them back and get the copper core if it will work better or last longer.
Ranger I know I have taken alot of your time, however I do value your opinion.....Ed
:noidea: Didn't realize there was THAT much of a difference. I thought the 9748Q were the OEM wires and that is what I used on my '97. Replaced them at 70-80K and kept the car until 107K. Never had a problem with them. That's about all I can tell you Ed. I don't think I'd fret over them.
I think my neighbor is still running those wires (probably about 10 years later).
11-29-12, 01:25 PM
Thank you for your reply
11-29-12, 01:39 PM
Wire wound stainless steel alloy (over a fiberglass/carbon core) is the standard construction for most "performance" ignition cable today. The stainless coil acts as an EMI barrier to reduce electronic noise emission - the old whirrr/buzzzzz in the radio.
Your wireset is perfectly fine for your engine application.
11-30-12, 01:22 PM
Thanks Everyone, they should be in today or Monday. I just recieved another b1s1 from rock about 20 min.ago,time to turn some bolts.....later Ed