: Ugh! replaced old Battery~ have power to dashboard, but the car wont START?

11-12-12, 02:55 PM
My old battery was from 2/08, and I just replaced it with a new/comparable 12v, 610 cranking amps battery.
I have power to the dashboard, however the car will not turn over. Its a new Champion Pro, 3yr warranty. 15A, 610 cca group size 58.

please assist.
thank you.

11-12-12, 03:11 PM
Put your old battery back in and see if it starts. Maybe you got a bad new battery. Happens.

BTW, I thought Cateras use group 48 like many European cars, not group 58.

11-12-12, 10:36 PM
Put your old battery back in and see if it starts. Maybe you got a bad new battery. Happens.

BTW, I thought Cateras use group 48 like many European cars, not group 58.

Proir to buying the new battery I charged my old one and sam result~ power to dashboard but wouldnt start or even turn over... so I bought anew. Could be the wrong group I guess. I'll check the starter tomorrow with multimeter... troubleshoot and try it again; then return/exchange battery to group 48.. ugh. THANKS GUYS

11-13-12, 04:07 AM
Before you look at the starter, try to jump start the car. If you can, then you can be reasonably certain it's a battery issue. Could be you just need to clean the battery cable connectors.

11-14-12, 01:58 AM
Sounds like the CPS to me.

12-07-12, 02:46 PM
Sorry, but whats CSP?
The battery nis new the terminals are clean... power to the dashboard, but I get no action- not even a clicking out of the starter. I was also told it could be something to do with the ignition. I seriously need help-- its december in WI and a shop wants close to $800 parts and labor to install a new starter Ugh.

With the key in the ignition as if to start the car, I used a multimeter to test the red lead that goes to the starter and Im getting a jumpy 8-12V -- the nuts are corroded on the starter too... So I presume power is getting to the cable terminal on the starter... but just because its getting power/ELE, doesnt mean the starter is good (I Guess?).

The starter is soo tightly spaced in there too Ugh. how do I remove the starter- how do I get to the upper hex bolt?

the following doc. doesnt appear to be the catera...

Could it be that Im using a group 58 and not a 48 battery?
Please assist. Im also getting 11-12V at the alternator too...

12-08-12, 08:24 AM
CPS would not be part of a "no crank"
Did you try and jump start it?
With the key off, you should have around 12.5v on only one lug of the starter. Key to start, both lugs should then have 12.5v. You say 8-12V and the nuts are corroded? Maybe the cable connections there are corroded too. With a new fully charged battery, you should have 12.4v or more. With less than 12v, you might have a problem with the cables,connections, or the battery.
If you can't jump start it, and you have good battery voltage at both starter lugs with the key at "start", I would then replace the starter.

Also look at your red positive cable that goes to the battery, if it is brown in places you probably need to replace it. It won't cause a no start, but it might be causing the alternator to not charge the battery properly.

12-09-12, 06:39 PM
Question: Should the OIL/PSI needle move with the key in the ignition- rockering ON.
My OIL/PSI needle doesnt move at all.

I checked the oil level-- its clean and full, and new oil filter (less than 1000miles)...
I was told with no oil pressure the car will not start... so I cleaned the "oil level sensor and the oil pressure switch".

Could it be that the oil/psi "Oil Level Sensor Connector" or the "Oil Pressure Switch" failed and thats why car not to even turn-over?
Again, I'm not getting any action/movement out of the oil-psi needle on the dash when I attempt to rocker the key to ON.

Checked with multimeter again: the battery, and at the red/power wire on the starter solenoid is getting a good 12V-- so is the alternator.
It's corroded but it's reading 12.4V.
Bad Starter Solenoid?
And this looks very difficult to remove too! any special instructions on how to remove the starter?
-- cant even get a wrench up in there.

12-10-12, 01:15 AM
Checked with multimeter again: the battery, and at the red/power wire on the starter solenoid is getting a good 12V-- so is the alternator.

That would be the same electrical point. The red cable from the battery is spliced, one lead goes to the starter, one lead to the alternator. That's the path for the alternator to charge the battery. There will always be 12v at those two points. The starter engages when you have 12v there AND on the other terminal of the starter (the solenoid side which goes toward the iginition switch through the gear selector). I think it's a smaller black cable. Measure from a ground point to each terminal of the starter.
The only control switches that the starter circuit has, is the ignition switch to "start" and the gear selector in park (or nuetral according to the schematic), there are no other switches. No cps, no oil switch, nothing else. So, when you have 12v on both sides of the starter terminals, the starter should crank.
When the solenoid side of the starter gets 12v, the windings in the solenoid pulls and holds the plunger, and connects a gear to the flywheel. At the same time, the battery from the other side of the starter is sent to the starter motor windings which turns the gear. When you take the ignition switch off "start" the plunger goes back out, so it's not connected to the flywheel while the engine is running.
So, just double check and make sure you have 12v on both terminals of the starter when the key is in the "start" poistion.
As far as changing the starter, I've not done that. Doesn't look easy. Last week I changed the red battery cable, and that was certainly a royal pain in the pooper.

12-10-12, 06:06 PM
Please...Correct me if Im wrong: I was told a bad CPS or crankshaft position sensor would not stop the starter from turning-over (?) In other words: the car's starter would still turn over, but the engine would not fully run. Correct(?). Thats what Im dealing with: The car will not turn-over at all... even with a new battery, with 12V at the starter (and solenoid) and at the alternator... Eventhough both the starter and alternator are getting power, one of the two is bad or failed in some way...(? is what Im guessing). IS that why it wont even turn-over/start? Could there be anything else?

As I recall with my old battery (before I replaced it) I had to jump-start the car each time I wanted to drive it - which wasnt very often.
In other words: the battery didnt have enough cracking amps to start the car, but at least the starter would turn over.
Since the old batttery was from 2008 - I thought to simply replace the battery...
Now the starter will not even turn-over.
Please assist : Thank you.

12-10-12, 07:12 PM
Well, you either didn't read my post, don't understand it, or you don't believe me. In either case, this is the last time I waste time replying. Here is the starting schematic, if you look really close maybe you'll find the cps or the other parts your looking for.


12-26-12, 09:15 PM
@marko, I had this exact thing happened to me at the end of sept after replacing the battery in my 1999 Catera, similar to hijack's scenario. However now with the key in the run position on the gauge cluster a Gear with a "S" now flashes. So I sent the car to a ammco in zephyrhills and they replaced the vss and the fuel pump, the car still did not start $1200 later. Then I sent it to Ed Morse of Tampa and they did a scan and told me that the CPS was sending info to the ecm however the ECM would lose it. Ed Morse replaced the CPS and there's still no solution.So I have the car in the driveway and I was told by Ed that the ECM and PCM were not talking to each other and then told to trace the ECM/PCM loop traceing wires that maybe causeing this problem. However I clearly know where the ECM is however do not know where the PCM is located in the engine compartment. Do you have any advice marko or anyone else?

12-27-12, 07:29 AM
Shawn, do you have a "no start" condition or is it a "no crank" where the car won't even turn over? Big difference. hijiliak's car won't even turn over, sounds more like you have a no start condition.